A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
lignum.
My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?
Robert
Claude Livernoche <[email protected]> schreef
> IMHO the wax is all natural, it'a residue of sap that has dryed.
+ + +
No. It isn't.
PvR
Careful about splitting: could be horrible with interlocked grain.
Check first. Sawing won't be that easy but should be doable
PvR
Robert <[email protected]> schreef
> Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.
> Robert
I would be interested in one of these blocks from the lumber yard.
Could you send me there phone number?
Thanks
Jack
[email protected] (Robert) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
> which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
> used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
> weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
> face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
> middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
> lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
> lignum.
>
> My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
> hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
> stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
> never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
> is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
> wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
> orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
> face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?
>
> Robert
On 3 Aug 2004 15:45:44 -0700, [email protected] (Robert) wrote:
>A local lumber yard has several 4" by 6-8" by 18-24" lignum blanks
>which it claims are "50 year old navy surplus." Apparently the navy
>used to machine these into propeller bearings. Anyway, each blank
>weighs 15-20 pounds, is covered in a thick wax-like substance, and is
>face-centered (meaning the center of the tree runs right down the
>middle of the blank). I'm an avid hand plane maker and have used
>lignum vitae for soles and have even made a 3/4" shoulder plane out of
>lignum.
>
>My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
>hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
>stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
>never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
>is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
>wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
>orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
>face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?
>
Buy them anyway. I haven't made aplane from LV, but I have a lovely
razee jack with a LV body (beech tote and wedge) that has stayed true.
It is made from the center of the log. I wouldn't have the guts to try
such a thing, but it apparently worked.
I also have a boat-shaped smooth plane, stamped "Crocker" that is also
made on the center, but it has cracked on the side of the opening.
It does look as if the pith is not a problem with LV anyway. I don't
see any reason not to try it.
If it isn't stable after 50 years it never will be.
Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a
"We have achieved the inversion of the single note."
__ Peter Ustinov as Karlheinz Stckhausen
On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 05:30:31 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:
> you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.
These are face-centred blanks, not boxed heart. They don't _include_
the central pith, they're just tangential slices but where a radius
would pass through the cente of the board's face. I understand that
this is important for good wearing properties when used as propellor
shaft bearings.
In some forms of woodworking (such as timber framing) you might
actually prefer to box the heart, because it keeps the movement as
twisting (which you can cope with) rather than cupping (which is
harder).
--
Smert' spamionam
Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.
Robert
[email protected] (jack) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I would be interested in one of these blocks from the lumber yard.
> Could you send me there phone number?
> Thanks
> Jack
Handloggers in Richmond, CA (just north of Berkeley, CA) has them.
You can check them out at www.handloggers.com. In general, they are a
great lumber yard -- helpful people and a big selection. I believe
they are mentioned on the woodworking school at the College of
Redwooods website as onee of their sources for lumber.
PALS (Plywood and Lumber Sales) in Oakland, CA is another good place
for lumber. They don't quite have the selection of hardwoods that
Handloggers has but their prices are great. They also have a huge
selection of hardwood plywoods.
While I'm on the subject of lumber yards -- there's a place in
Berkeley called MacBeath Hardwords that carries lignum vitae (although
nothing bigger than 2" by 2"). I've never been to a place with more
arrogant and unhelpful staff or with prices that are more outrageous.
They are very well know in the bay area and it's too bad because the
place is really miserable. I recommend avoiding them as much as
possible.
"P van Rijckevorsel" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Careful about splitting: could be horrible with interlocked grain.
> Check first. Sawing won't be that easy but should be doable
> PvR
By splitting I meant cutting it in half with a band saw or table saw.
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 05:30:31 GMT, Steve Knight
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.
>
> These are face-centred blanks, not boxed heart. They don't _include_
> the central pith, they're just tangential slices but where a radius
> would pass through the cente of the board's face. I understand that
> this is important for good wearing properties when used as propellor
> shaft bearings.
>
> In some forms of woodworking (such as timber framing) you might
> actually prefer to box the heart, because it keeps the movement as
> twisting (which you can cope with) rather than cupping (which is
> harder).
Actuallu, these blanks are what you are referring to "boxed heart".
The center of the tree runs down the middle of the long axis of the
blank, so central pith is included.
>My question is -- can one of these blanks be used to make an entire
>hand plane out of lignum? In particular, (1) is the wood dry and
>stable after curing for 50 years underneath the wax coating? I've
>never dealt with wet lignum, but I can tell you that even dry lignum
>is very reactive. After almost every cut, you have to resquare the
>wood because it moves so much. (2) Other than the problem of grain
>orientation of the plane bottom, is there anything about a
>face-centered blank that I should be concerned about?
you usually don't want the center in your woodworking as it is pretty unstable.
but once LV is dry it stays put. I found when I used it for soles I had to cut
it and leave it for a couple weeks atleast before I used it. this was stuff that
sat around for a long time. it's hard to tell when it is really dry.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 21:03:27 -0700, "AArDvarK" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>> IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years, It
>> is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.
>>
>
>Don't you think anyone would've dried them before waxing them? I do! Point of
>the wax is to keep water "out".
>
>Alex
>
It may have been there to slow the drying, letting the wood stabilize
without checking. The wax isn't going to stop moisture migration
entirely.
Rodney Myrvaagnes J36 Gjo/a
"We have achieved the inversion of the single note."
__ Peter Ustinov as Karlheinz Stckhausen
On 6 Aug 2004 00:02:43 -0700, [email protected] (Robert) wrote:
>Well, I think I'll buy one of these and give it a try. The lumber
>yard only has six or seven of left (out of a pallet of 40) and I don't
>think I'll run accross another chance like this. They're not cheap --
>about $100 each ($7 per pound). What I'll do is take off the wax,
>split it down the middle to get two 4 by 4 blanks and then let them
>equilibriate for a couple months or so. Then I'll make a jack and
>smoother. I'm working on a set-up to machine the mouth with a
>cross-vise and end mill in my drill press -- I don't know if it's
>going to work but I'd love to be able to make a solid plane without
>glue lines -- and I'm not good enough with a chisel -- yet.
>
>Robert
Robert-
you might want to do a search of the google archives:
<http://groups.google.com/groups?as_q=drill%20press%20as%20mill&safe=images&ie=UTF-8&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&lr=&hl=en>
<http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=drill+press+as+mill&btnG=Search&meta=group%3Drec.crafts.metalworking>
for information about using your drill press as a mill. what you're
likely to find is that the chances of having it work without ruining
your expensve chunk of wood are slim.
IMHO the wax is all natural, it'a residue of sap that has dryed.
Claude
"Leon" <[email protected]> a écrit dans le message de
news:[email protected]...
> IMHO if the entire blank has indeed been covered in the wax for 50 years,
It
> is still as wet or dry as when it was sealed.
>
>
On Tue, 3 Aug 2004 21:03:27 -0700, "AArDvarK" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Don't you think anyone would've dried them before waxing them?
No, waxing of green blanks or semi-green blanks is quite common when
dealing with exotic timbers, especially those that are slow to dry or
prone to problems. Take a look at a woodturning supplier some time.
Wax is somewhat permeable. After 50 years, you ought to find they're
pretty much at equilibrium moisture content.
--
Smert' spamionam