LL

"Locutus"

06/03/2006 2:53 PM

Making a bed

I am in the process of purchasing material for this bed:

http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~kuijt/Bed.JPG

I have already purchased the posts and the molding in pine. The headboard,
footboard and canopy will be made from ply.

For the sideboards and frame I was considering just using standard 2x's
that you would use for framing/decking. Does anyone foresee any problems
doing this? (warping/finishing/etc)?

All comments/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!


This topic has 6 replies

Jj

"Josh"

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

06/03/2006 2:44 PM

I've used framing lumber before along with pine in a couple of
projects. It's usually spruce or fir, and it usually looks very
similar to the pine in the end. It's hard to find good solid pieces
without loose knots or checks, though, and I've found it to be a lot
less stable than other lumber. I don't know if it's because the places
I've bought it from had stored it outside or if it wasn't kiln dry it
or what, but I found that it tended to bow or twist much more than S4S
pine. Probably stickering it and air drying for a couple of weeks
would help.

Josh

Locutus wrote:
> I am in the process of purchasing material for this bed:
>
> http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~kuijt/Bed.JPG
>
> I have already purchased the posts and the molding in pine. The headboard,
> footboard and canopy will be made from ply.
>
> For the sideboards and frame I was considering just using standard 2x's
> that you would use for framing/decking. Does anyone foresee any problems
> doing this? (warping/finishing/etc)?
>
> All comments/suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks!

LL

"Locutus"

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

06/03/2006 5:21 PM


"Enoch Root" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Locutus wrote:
>
>> I am in the process of purchasing material for this bed:
>>
>> http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~kuijt/Bed.JPG
>>
>> I have already purchased the posts and the molding in pine. The
>> headboard,
>> footboard and canopy will be made from ply.
>>
>> For the sideboards and frame I was considering just using standard 2x's
>> that you would use for framing/decking. Does anyone foresee any problems
>> doing this? (warping/finishing/etc)?
>>
>> All comments/suggestions are appreciated.
>
> How you fold the corners at the foot is very important.
>

I take that back... not ALL comments/suggestions are appreciated. :)

ER

Enoch Root

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

06/03/2006 2:20 PM

Locutus wrote:

> I am in the process of purchasing material for this bed:
>
> http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~kuijt/Bed.JPG
>
> I have already purchased the posts and the molding in pine. The headboard,
> footboard and canopy will be made from ply.
>
> For the sideboards and frame I was considering just using standard 2x's
> that you would use for framing/decking. Does anyone foresee any problems
> doing this? (warping/finishing/etc)?
>
> All comments/suggestions are appreciated.

How you fold the corners at the foot is very important.

er
--
email not valid

GG

"George"

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

06/03/2006 6:05 PM


"Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've used framing lumber before along with pine in a couple of
> projects. It's usually spruce or fir, and it usually looks very
> similar to the pine in the end. It's hard to find good solid pieces
> without loose knots or checks, though, and I've found it to be a lot
> less stable than other lumber. I don't know if it's because the places
> I've bought it from had stored it outside or if it wasn't kiln dry it
> or what, but I found that it tended to bow or twist much more than S4S
> pine. Probably stickering it and air drying for a couple of weeks
> would help.

There's the rub. Spruce does not look like pine, and fir even less. You'll
have to shop around to get similar wood. Then there's the splinter and knot
problem.

Construction grade no, "C" select and better, sure.

DJ

"Dave Jackson"

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

07/03/2006 1:49 AM

Keep in mind - framing lumber is only required to be dried to 19% moisture
content. This is fine for building a house, not so fine for building
furniture. Also, finding useable 2x framing lumber may prove to be a real
challenge as framing lumber commonly has many defects. If you can find some
useable, sticker and let it dry for a few weeks at minimum. --dave


"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Josh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've used framing lumber before along with pine in a couple of
>> projects. It's usually spruce or fir, and it usually looks very
>> similar to the pine in the end. It's hard to find good solid pieces
>> without loose knots or checks, though, and I've found it to be a lot
>> less stable than other lumber. I don't know if it's because the places
>> I've bought it from had stored it outside or if it wasn't kiln dry it
>> or what, but I found that it tended to bow or twist much more than S4S
>> pine. Probably stickering it and air drying for a couple of weeks
>> would help.
>
> There's the rub. Spruce does not look like pine, and fir even less.
> You'll have to shop around to get similar wood. Then there's the splinter
> and knot problem.
>
> Construction grade no, "C" select and better, sure.
>

SD

"Steve DeMars"

in reply to "Locutus" on 06/03/2006 2:53 PM

24/04/2006 4:50 PM

Depends on how much you and your wife weigh?



"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am in the process of purchasing material for this bed:
>
> http://www.umiacs.umd.edu/~kuijt/Bed.JPG
>
> I have already purchased the posts and the molding in pine. The headboard,
> footboard and canopy will be made from ply.
>
> For the sideboards and frame I was considering just using standard 2x's
> that you would use for framing/decking. Does anyone foresee any problems
> doing this? (warping/finishing/etc)?
>
> All comments/suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
>


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