I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
on a router table.
I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?
As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long
on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in
the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
perhaps more certain to work.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 6/11/2014 6:29 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 6/10/2014 7:59 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> Best to go to longer bits, and 1/2" shanks and collets, if you need to
>> get excess height, as you stand a better chance of less flex and run out
>> causing problems, not to mention the danger of a bit coming loose.
>
> Exactly the things I was wondering about. Someday I intend to build a
> router table and get a better router to put in it. But for now, it's
> 1/4" collets. I think I'll stick with my jig method for the moment.
For years I used an insert, in a flat piece of plywood, between two
sawhorses to pretty good effect.
The biggest factors in doing it that way are time and precision.
If you have the time to futz with settings to get the precision you
need, than it is certainly an option to get you started on using a
"router table".
Two most important things for me, and the way I use a router table, are
the rigidity and stability of the top and insert; and the ability to
easily dial in the bit height.
Thus, and after finally having one, for me a "router lift" is an
absolute necessity to get the most out of a router table setup for what
I use one for.
With those two parameters taken care of, you can always build the actual
table later.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:48:05 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Dave Balderstone" wrote:
>> Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
>> gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.
>--------------------------------------------
>A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.
>
>Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.
>
A 1500W heat gun may not help you recover from sins with your AMEX
card but it will stop you from sinning again.
In article <[email protected]>, Greg Guarino
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
> exactly? How much of it?
I use this stuff:
<http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49224&cat=1,110,43466>
I generally run the 1" with about a 2" gap between. The template
shouldn't see much lateral pressure.
hth,
djb
--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
In article <[email protected]>, Greg Guarino
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> > Takes considerable
> > effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.
>
> I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the template if it's
> 1/4" plexi?
>
Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.
--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
On 2/25/2014 7:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Learned long ago that if you do enough pattern routing, using a template
> and pattern bit, there will be the occasional incident due to grain
> direction/wood imperfections where a workpiece is subject to being
> grabbed, resulting in a ruined work piece and often a ruined template,
> and double sided tape is not enough of a defense when this happen as far
> as safety goes.
>
> It pays to keep in mind that Murphy is always lurking when routing, and
> if safety is not reason enough over design engineer a pattern jig,
> saving that last piece of expensive stock from harm is enough reason by
> itself.
>
> I do a lot of pattern routing, and always make my routing templates as a
> "jig", whereby I can secure the work piece with clamps (see below) on at
> least two sides, and preferably three, both for security purposes, and
> for at least one side acting as a reference edge for accuracy. I also
> like to have a handhold that I can grasp securely for obvious reasons.
>
> I also make the routing "template jigs" out of MDF and/or plywood due to
> the softness of the material should the worst happen and it comes into
> contact with the router bit.
>
> With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
> curve in that material. I will also often "edge band" the curve if I
> want longevity of the curved pattern for multiple parts.
See the "eWoodShop - Whiskey Barrel Base" just posted.
Was thinking about your original post when I was making the jig to do
the curved bottom on profiled trim for the sides of the whiskey barrel
bases, so added a couple of extra photos illustrating the above:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopWhiskeyBarrelBase?noredirect=1
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Dave Balderstone" wrote:
> Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
> gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.
--------------------------------------------
A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.
Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.
Lew
On 2/24/2014 3:33 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> Takes considerable
>>> effort to separate the template & work once you do the
>>> routing.
>>
>> I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the
>> template if it's 1/4" plexi?
>
> No. Not unless you use LOTS of tape.
Good advice and Greg, think about it for a moment. You really aren't
applying all that much force to the template or the workpiece for that
matter. Think about those rubber routing /sanding mats. They hold
still pretty well, don't they.
Just try a practice piece with as little tape as you think that you can
get away with and see. Just make sure the tape that you DO use, bonds
well. That white, filmy double-stick carpet tape should hold on all but
rough sawn wood like white on rice.
On 2/24/2014 6:40 PM, Tyrone Tiews wrote:
> "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>>> This email is free from viruses and malware because
>>> avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>>> http://www.avast.com
>>
>> It would be really nice if you got rid of this spam. You can turn it
>> off on avast. AFATG, you don't need to even have avast scan email or
>> news posts.
>>
>> --
>>
>> dadiOH
>> ____________________________
>>
>> Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
>> Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
>> Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
>
> Wouldn't mind not seeing your spam, AFTAG.
>
LOL! Pot... Kettle... Black or absence of light<g>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:530be845$0$17073
[email protected]:
> A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.
>
> Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.
>
> Lew
They can both also get you into all kinds of trouble. ;-)
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On Thursday, February 27, 2014 9:03:11 AM UTC-8, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 10:48:40 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
>
>
>
> >> Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.
>
> > Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook
> > paper, etc.
> Brown paper grocery bags are used the most. They are strong enough ...
> Just hit with a mallet or pry with a chisel.
My favorite is painters' masking paper; doesn't soak up much glue,
maintains integrity with any of the glues I could use. The
only papers that wouldn't work are waxed, painted, or wrinkled.
It forms a perfect grain line, and splits off SO nice...
Tape is a temporary fastener.
Expect just that when using it for a router hold down.
The transfer of energy from the router (cutter) to the work varies with cut=
ter engagement and traction.
Get inside tight curves, against grain, full thickness, and the cutter trac=
tion goes way up and the work goes its way. It's spontaneous and often unex=
pected for the novice.
More on how to hold the work and minimize surprises.
http://patwarner.com/templates2.html
*****************************************
On Monday, February 24, 2014 10:07:16 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have ne=
ither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with a jig=
saw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit on a rou=
ter table. I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work wit=
h double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape, =
exactly? How much of it? As another option, I was thinking I could leave th=
e piece a little long on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template=
into the wood in the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less c=
onvenient, but perhaps more certain to work. --- This email is free from vi=
ruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www=
.avast.com
On 2/26/2014 2:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
> won't show? In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
> the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
> wooden tab, scrape off paper.
And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden tab", to the bottom
of the router end of the trammel to keep the trammel parallel to the
workpiece, otherwise the edge of the routed arc will not be
perpendicular to the face.
Now, that's where that double sided tape will come in handy. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Got this in FWW's email letter this morning:
SUBJECT:Ultimate routing jig
Not that I necessarily think this is, as they say in their email, the
"ultimate" pattern routing jig; and I can say with certainly that I
don't think it is all that "clever" for a number of reasons - lack of
adaptability to size and provisions for backing up edges to prevent
tearout are a couple - nonetheless thought it was definitely germane to
this discussion and might be useful to have in your bag of tricks:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/pattern-routing-jig-is-safer-and-faster.aspx?&lookup=auto&V18=&V19=&V20=&V21=&V22=&V23=&V24=&V25=&V26=&V53=&V54=&Taun_Per_Flag=true&&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fw_eletter&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/24/2014 6:27 PM, BenignBodger wrote:
> On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
>> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
>> exactly? How much of it?
>>
>> As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
>> long on
>> one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in the
>> "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
>> perhaps
>> more certain to work.
> I've always used the 'make it longer' option or simply clamped the
> workpiece to the template where size permitted. I guess that double
> stick works (enough people swear by it) but it always seemed to be
> chancy to me: either it wouldn't stick well enough and result in damage
> or it would stick too well which might lead to finishing bother down the
> road.
Agree totally.
I rarely use double sided tape on a routing template.
Learned long ago that if you do enough pattern routing, using a template
and pattern bit, there will be the occasional incident due to grain
direction/wood imperfections where a workpiece is subject to being
grabbed, resulting in a ruined work piece and often a ruined template,
and double sided tape is not enough of a defense when this happen as far
as safety goes.
It pays to keep in mind that Murphy is always lurking when routing, and
if safety is not reason enough over design engineer a pattern jig,
saving that last piece of expensive stock from harm is enough reason by
itself.
I do a lot of pattern routing, and always make my routing templates as a
"jig", whereby I can secure the work piece with clamps (see below) on at
least two sides, and preferably three, both for security purposes, and
for at least one side acting as a reference edge for accuracy. I also
like to have a handhold that I can grasp securely for obvious reasons.
I also make the routing "template jigs" out of MDF and/or plywood due to
the softness of the material should the worst happen and it comes into
contact with the router bit.
With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
curve in that material. I will also often "edge band" the curve if I
want longevity of the curved pattern for multiple parts.
Just a couple of examples:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5984116654165813634
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5984117061482723378
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/2/2014 5:41 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I really am having a productive weekend, by my standards anyway.
> Yesterday I cut some project parts using a router template that I made,
> a first for me. Today, another new adventure.
>
> As suggested by Swingman, I redesigned my kitchen shelf unit using
> stopped dadoes.:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
>
> My task for today was to figure out a way to make them. I don't have
> dado blades, chiefly because I don't have a saw to put them on. I make
> dadoes with a router and a jig I built a couple of projects back. I
> decided to try to modify the jig with some sort of "stop". Here's what I
> came up with:
>
> I made a stop that would fit in the channel of the jig out of scrap:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
>
> The "tab" is to support the stop above the work. Note also the screw in
> the end of the stop:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889939033/in/photostream/
>
> That was to provide some fine adjustability. The screw butts up against
> a fixed block that I screwed in at the far end of the channel. I used
> one of the shelves that will mate with the stopped dado to set the length:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889847285/in/photostream/
>
> I screwed the whole jig into the work surface and screwed in a "fence"
> to the left of the jig for the work pieces to butt up against (for
> repeatability). Too bad I could only "repeat" twice with that setup; the
> other two pieces had to be mirror images, requiring me to reconfigure
> the "fence" on the other side.
>
> I also (re-)discovered what I assume is an unavoidable part of
> woodworking. I spent the better part of two hours thinking up, building
> and modifying the jig. Then 2 minutes actually making each cut. I guess
> that's a good thing; it means the setup was easy to use. Here's video of
> the brief, most rewarding part of the process:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85HD7VJFnCk&feature=youtu.be
>
> Hey, you can even see me almost make a big mistake. :)
>
> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>
>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Cool. Welcome to the wonderful world of jigs, and now you will find out
how quickly your space will fill with them :-0
--
Jeff
On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
>> curve in that material.
>
> That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
> template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
> pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
> plastics store, which would take care of that.
>
> Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
> of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
> center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
> forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
> different radii.
Than use a trammel. I have made dozens of them down through the years,
easy enough to make:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919093235360754
... I was as gifted this one a few years back:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5984386149638224194
Some more template router jig ideas that I use quite frequently:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919225887409474
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5684919234429149106
The one for corbels here is a method I use for a lot of curves,
including curved shelves that are arcs of a circle for use in kitchens
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5984384594717579266
I used a similar one designed around the trammel to to make these:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5984389719502051410
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 6/9/2014 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> 3. The router bit has to protrude further from the table. Does this
> matter? Or, more personally, does it matter if your router table setup
> is less than top quality? I'm not sure.
If I understand your question.
Not so much how high above the table, but how much the bit is not in the
collet to get the height you need.
Best to go to longer bits, and 1/2" shanks and collets, if you need to
get excess height, as you stand a better chance of less flex and run out
causing problems, not to mention the danger of a bit coming loose.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
> neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
> a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
> on a router table.
>
> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
> exactly? How much of it?
>
> As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long
> on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in
> the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
> perhaps more certain to work.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Tempered hardboard (masonite brand name), 1/4 " you can cut it then
easily sand it. Get the stuff that's smooth on both sides if you can, it
makes it easier to flip it.
Carpet tape is what I use, it's double sided, sticks tenaciously, so I
cut smaller strips, just enough to do the job. Get a trim flush bit, and
a pattern bit, because you may need to change which side you are routing
from if it starts to tear out.. piece of cake.
BTW you can do scalloped cuts if it starts tearing out and you can't
route it, then smooth them out, I found it works great.
--
Jeff
On 3/3/2014 10:05 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>
>>> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>>
>> There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but there is no particuar
>> reason to do so as whatever goes into the dado can hide the minor gap
>> if the
>> dado end is left rounded.
>>
>> Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else with the
>> time it takes to square them.
>>
> I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2" diameter bit,
> thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I notch the ends
> of the shelves (which seems like at least as much work as squaring the
> corners), the gap will be visible.
You should notch the ends. That will be the proper way to do a stopped dado.
>
> Here's the design:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/in/set-72157641733510634
>
> The stopped dadoes hold the small lower shelves.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
--
Jeff
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because
>> avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>> http://www.avast.com
>
> It would be really nice if you got rid of this spam. You can turn it
> off on avast. AFATG, you don't need to even have avast scan email or
> news posts.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
> Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
> Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Wouldn't mind not seeing your spam, AFTAG.
On 2/25/2014 3:03 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to cut a template
> and the template (screwed into a still-oversize workpiece) to rout the
> arcs.
There you go, Bubba ... "thinking" is the operative word, and you are
now thinking like a problem solving woodworker. ;)
Two main reasons for coming up with a jig design to use in the situation
you outlined in your original post:
Accurate Repeatability and Safety (both yours, and the work piece's).
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/2/2014 4:49 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I also (re-)discovered what I assume is an unavoidable part of
> woodworking. I spent the better part of two hours thinking up, building
> and modifying the jig. Then 2 minutes actually making each cut. I guess
> that's a good thing; it means the setup was easy to use.
Well done!
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/1/2014 11:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I proceeded to make the four pieces. It was remarkably quick and I like
> the results. Fun too. I can already see ways that I might have improved
> the process. I will definitely be doing more of this sort of thing in
> the future.
Just a few, of dozens, curve making concepts:
Download SU 2014, there are a couple of new ways to make arcs.
Use the SU "Bezier Curve" plug-in to make your curves.
Cut a 1/8" thick strip off the edge of a board long enough to make your
curve; drill a small hole in each end and use a piece of string, like a
bow string, to bend the strip to the proper curve, thusly:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05n5520s1b.jpg?c=2
Using that same thin strip, hammer in some small finish nails in the
appropriate spots to bend the strip around for the curve you want.
Use purchased or homemade pencil compasses of various sizes to make your
curves.
Cheap plastic "French Curves", available at any office supply store, of
various sizes are hard to beat for laying out curves, particularly when
using it in conjunction with that compass, or the appropriate sizes edge
of a can, a lid or a bucket.
A "pattern maker's rasp" is a nice thing to have when fairing curves in
your template.
When fairing a curve, cut a thin, flexible strip off the edge of a scrap
board and glue your sandpaper to that. Putting little wooden
"knobs/blocks" on each end makes it easier to hold and to keep the
faired edges perpendicular to the face.
Often attaching sandpaper on the edge of the off cut when rough cutting
your curve will make a good fairing tool.
An "oscillating spindle sander" is a good investment if you are going to
be doing furniture with a lot of curved parts. Great for both making
your templates, and for smoothing/making perpindicular the curve edges
in the work piece.
Most important: Make the effort, and take all the time you need, to make
your curved templates PERFECT, for you will eventually save more time in
its use than you will in the making of it.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> I have started on a project that will require some curved
> cuts. I have neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near
> the curve with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and
> a template bit on a router table.
>
> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the
> work with double-stick tape. Would this work in my application?
> What kind of tape, exactly? How much of it?
I use carpet tape, usually from HD. There are two kinds I am aware of...one
is a thin foam, avoid it, no good; the other is a thin, white film about 2"
wide. It works very well as long as both surfaces are smooth. If less than
smooth, whack the stuck together pieces with a hammer, may still work.
How much? Well, it rather depends upon the size of the template. If it
was, say, a foot square I'd probably use five pieces, each about 1"
square...one in the center, four near the corners. Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
> neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve
> with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template
> bit on a router table.
Just be very careful Greg. Run some test cuts. You'll probably find that
your jig saw blade bends in the curved cut and does not cut a perpendicular
cut. If so - you'll have to allow for that.
>
> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of
> tape, exactly? How much of it?
Carpet tape works, but first run the test cuts. I'm serious - you are going
to find that your jig saw will not cut true - depending on the tightness of
the curve you are cutting, and/or whether it's an inside or outside curve.
>
> As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
> long on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood
> in
> the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient,
> but perhaps more certain to work.
Waste is good when using a jig saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/24/2014 1:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
>> neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve
>> with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template
>> bit on a router table.
>
> Just be very careful Greg. Run some test cuts. You'll probably find that
> your jig saw blade bends in the curved cut and does not cut a perpendicular
> cut. If so - you'll have to allow for that.
Basic advice is the kind I generally need and is always welcome, but I
did think of that.
>> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
>> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of
>> tape, exactly? How much of it?
>
> Carpet tape works, but first run the test cuts. I'm serious - you are going
> to find that your jig saw will not cut true - depending on the tightness of
> the curve you are cutting, and/or whether it's an inside or outside curve.
Outside (convex). And have no fear, I have a general distrust for jigsaws.
>> As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
>> long on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood
>> in
>> the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient,
>> but perhaps more certain to work.
>
> Waste is good when using a jig saw.
>
>
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> Takes considerable
> effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.
I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the template if it's
1/4" plexi?
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> > Takes considerable
> > effort to separate the template & work once you do the
> > routing.
>
> I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the
> template if it's 1/4" plexi?
No. Not unless you use LOTS of tape.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because
> avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
It would be really nice if you got rid of this spam. You can turn it off on
avast. AFATG, you don't need to even have avast scan email or news posts.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
> neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with a
> jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit on a
> router table.
>
> I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
> double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
> exactly? How much of it?
>
> As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long on
> one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in the
> "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but perhaps
> more certain to work.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
I've always used the 'make it longer' option or simply clamped the
workpiece to the template where size permitted. I guess that double stick
works (enough people swear by it) but it always seemed to be chancy to me:
either it wouldn't stick well enough and result in damage or it would stick
too well which might lead to finishing bother down the road.
On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
> With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
> curve in that material.
That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
plastics store, which would take care of that.
Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
different radii.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote
> Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as material for a
> router based template for pattern routing.
>
> Just me.
Yep. Bearing gets hot and melts into the pattern. Not good. Plexi is
nasty to cut and clogs sandpaper.
--
Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> > I'm pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the
> > right radius at a local plastics store, which would
> > take care of that.
>
> Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as
> material for a router based template for pattern routing.
>
> Just me.
And me.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/25/2014 12:30 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Then use a trammel.
Is that a jig designed by a committee? :)
I don't believe I have heard that name before, but I have seen the
device. One potential problem: the radius I intend to use would put the
center "pin" inside the piece to be cut. I wouldn't want to put a hole
in the piece, so I'd have to affix some sacrificial piece to the work.
The jig idea I had was something like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12778985114/
But I saw at least two problems upon looking at the drawing. All of the
layers (the router table, the two-layer jig and the work itself) mean
that the router bit would not be long enough. I've been planning to
build a router table (although not right away) and could then do away
with one layer; drilling a pivot hole into the table itself. But there's
also the issue of stopping the cut at the right point. I suppose I could
figure that out as well, but it is starting to seem more complex than I
would like.
I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to cut a template
and the template (screwed into a still-oversize workpiece) to rout the
arcs.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/25/2014 12:30 PM, Swingman wrote:
> > Then use a trammel.
>
> Is that a jig designed by a committee? :)
>
> I don't believe I have heard that name before, but I have
> seen the device. One potential problem: the radius I intend to use
> would put the center "pin" inside the piece to be cut. I wouldn't want
> to put a hole in the piece, so I'd have to affix some sacrificial piece
> to the work.
> The jig idea I had was something like this:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12778985114/
>
> But I saw at least two problems upon looking at the
> drawing. All of the layers (the router table, the two-layer jig and the
> work
> itself) mean that the router bit would not be long enough. I've been
> planning to build a router table (although not right away) and could
> then do away with one layer; drilling a pivot hole into the table
> itself. But there's also the issue of stopping the cut at the right point.
> I
> suppose I could figure that out as well, but it is starting to seem more
> complex than I would like.
>
> I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to
> cut a template and the template (screwed into a still-oversize
> workpiece) to rout the arcs.
I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not just
make a circle cutting base for your router? Make one, cut virtually any arc
you want. The 1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/26/2014 7:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not just
> make a circle cutting base for your router? Make one, cut virtually any arc
> you want. The 1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.
As I mentioned, the center of the arc would be (slightly) inside the
workpiece itself, which complicates things a little as I wouldn't want a
hole in the finished piece. I have thought of a few ways around that,
but I'm still sifting them in my brain.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 2/25/2014 5:01 PM, Swingman wrote:
> you are now thinking like a problem solving woodworker. ;)
With my limited experience and the gaps in my tool arsenal,
problem-solving is a nearly continuous activity.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 2/24/2014 10:07 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
> neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
> a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
> on a router table.
It works quite well as long as you have the following.
1. double sided tape
2. a smoothly sanded template
3. the correct router bit.
(1) Cheap carpet tape from Lowes or Home Depot.
Use just a small amount, using too much will
make taking the template almost impossible.
2. Make the template as smooth as possible because
any lumps,bumps or imperfections will be shown in
the finished piece.
3. You will end up needing a bottom or top bearing
bit. In some cases, both types of bits are needed.
You can also buy a bit that has both a top and bottom
bearing which can be fairly handy.
Browse through this list of bits to see some options.
http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products?c=Router_CNC&cat=Trim_Bits&page=1
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/26/2014 7:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> > I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not
> > just make a circle cutting base for your
> > router? Make one, cut virtually any arc you want. The
> > 1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.
>
> As I mentioned, the center of the arc would be (slightly)
> inside the workpiece itself, which complicates things a little as I
> wouldn't want a hole in the finished piece. I have thought of a few ways
> around that, but I'm still sifting them in my brain.
>
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
won't show? In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
wooden tab, scrape off paper.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
> won't show?
Yes.
In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
> the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
> wooden tab, scrape off paper.
Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.
I was thinking of clamping a piece of wood (with the pilot hole) to the
workpiece.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 2/26/2014 4:07 PM, Swingman wrote:
> And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden tab", to the bottom
> of the router end of the trammel to keep the trammel parallel to the
> workpiece, otherwise the edge of the routed arc will not be
> perpendicular to the face.
Thanks. That bit I would have thought of myself. My mental, theoretical,
"ideal" sense of geometry is good. I've always been adept at turning an
object around in my head. It's the translation from the ideal to the
material that I need some work on.
I'm still thinking it may be easier in the long run to make a template
(that I CAN drill a hole in), then use the template to rout the workpieces.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> > I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
> > a hole where it won't show?
>
> Yes.
>
> In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood
> to
> > the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it,
> > rout, knock off the wooden tab, scrape off paper.
>
> Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.
Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook paper,
etc.
Glue...white glue, hot melt, mucilage, airplane glue...anything that isn't
super strong and can be removed with relative ease, preferably with water.
Super glue wouldn't be good, wheat paste might, don't know, have never used
it (for that purpose).
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 2/26/2014 2:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> > I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
> > a hole where it won't show? In that case, do as the
> > turners do...glue a piece of wood to the piece with
> > paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off
> > the wooden tab, scrape off paper.
>
> And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden
> tab", to the bottom of the router end of the trammel to
> keep the trammel parallel to the workpiece, otherwise the
> edge of the routed arc will not be perpendicular to the
> face.
Makes a nice bevel though :)
Actually, I have on occasion afixed a block on one side of a router base for
that purpose; works fine as long as you keep the router oriented the same
way throughout the cut (a straight edge on the base helps).
> Now, that's where that double sided tape will come in
> handy. ;)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 2/27/14, 9:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
>>> a hole where it won't show?
>>
>> Yes.
>>
>> In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood
>> to
>>> the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it,
>>> rout, knock off the wooden tab, scrape off paper.
>>
>> Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.
>
> Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook paper,
> etc.
>
> Glue...white glue, hot melt, mucilage, airplane glue...anything that isn't
> super strong and can be removed with relative ease, preferably with water.
> Super glue wouldn't be good, wheat paste might, don't know, have never used
> it (for that purpose).
>
I've done this to turn drum shells and it works great... almost too great.
I used paper grocery bags, which I always keep handy for sanding between
finish coats.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 10:48:40 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
>> Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.
>
> Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook
> paper, etc.
Brown paper grocery bags are used the most. They are strong enough to
hold but can be separated into layers without having to soften the glue.
Just hit with a mallet or pry with a chisel.
--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014
On 2/25/14 8:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
>> curve in that material.
>
> That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
> template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
> pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
> plastics store, which would take care of that.
>
> Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
> of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
> center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
> forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
> different radii.
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
I do a bunch of template routing and have always used masonite and the
thin carpet tape (from HD). For the curved edges of a cutting board
sized object (10"x16"), I find 4x 2" square pieces to be plenty. Cut as
close a practical to minimize router work (I use a bandsaw) and use a
spiral fluted template bit. The straight flute bits tend to grab and
throw a bit too much for my liking.
I also make a *lot* of circular frames for my wife's glass art. For
these I use a template cut from masonite with a 1/2" hole in the center.
I mount the template to the workpiece (with carpet tape) and use a
bandsaw jig to get a rough circle that is about 1/8" larger in diameter
than the finished size. For routing, I have a circle jig with a 1/2"
post clamped to the router table. This is set up to provide the final
diameter by measuring from the post to the edge of the bit. I then lower
the bit (a spiral up-cut), place the workpiece over the post, then raise
the bit for the first of a series of cuts. As the bit cuts, I rotate the
workpiece, raise the bit, rotate, etc. until the outer diameter is
finished. For the inside I just move the jig in towards the bit for my
desired opening size and repeat the operation as before. The only
difference is I keep track of the bit height so I don't cut through the
template (you can't see the bit while doing this). The tape holds
everything in place while doing this.
The result is a doughnut shaped frame with all the necessary rabbets,
perfectly round, and only requiring minimal sanding.
Back to the templates and template router bit: I often find that after
tracing my pattern onto the masonite and cutting it out, the process of
hand shaping and sanding will leave the surface with a slightly beveled
and/or rounded edge. I usually take this template and attach it to
another piece of masonite (with carpet tape) and cut out a matching
'production' template, this time with perfectly square edges and a
smoother surface.
For me, the key points are to use spiral fluted bits. If grain direction
becomes an issue, swapping between top and bottom bearing template bits
solves the problem.
-Bruce
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On 3/1/2014 10:54 AM, Brewster wrote:
> Back to the templates and template router bit: I often find that after
> tracing my pattern onto the masonite and cutting it out, the process of
> hand shaping and sanding will leave the surface with a slightly beveled
> and/or rounded edge. I usually take this template and attach it to
> another piece of masonite (with carpet tape) and cut out a matching
> 'production' template, this time with perfectly square edges and a
> smoother surface.
>
> For me, the key points are to use spiral fluted bits. If grain direction
> becomes an issue, swapping between top and bottom bearing template bits
> solves the problem.
Firstly, thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response.
And thanks to everyone else as well.
I've been thinking about the "beveling" problem, especially now that I
have decided to really get myself in trouble and go for a more complex
curve. I may indeed need to follow your advice.
The spiral fluted bit makes perfect sense, but I don't have one today,
one of the rare days when I have a stretch of free time. So I intend
experiment a bit and see what I can accomplish.
I've printed a paper template from Sketchup which I intend to affix to
some mdf with spray adhesive. Than I'll try to cut, file, sand and
possibly dremel the mdf to the proper shape.
Assuming I still have some time (and hair) left, I will try to make my
pieces out of plywood. If they don't look too bad after edge-banding, I
may even use them. If not, at least I won't have made my first attempts
at pattern routing on expensive stock.
Here's the latest (revision number 1,000,000):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
I don't know why my previous post took several hours to succeed, but
here's the "after" report.
I printed a paper template of the curved shelf support I intended to
make. I couldn't figure why Sketchup insisted on printing it on 3 sheets
of paper when it could easily have fit on 2. I did a little cutting,
aligned the sheets and taped them together.
Taking advantage of 2 factory edges, I used spray adhesive to mount the
paper template on a piece of 3/16 MDF. (I would have used rubber cement,
but there was none to be had)
I jigsawed the piece to rough shape - rougher than necessary as it
turned out. I hardly ever use a saber saw and was pleasantly surprised
at how smooth and square the cut was. I could have saved myself some
filing.
I filed the MDF down to the line as best I could. Inspecting the piece
afterward, I noted that I had indeed made the edge less than perfectly
square. It wasn't too bad though, and my plan was to work through the
process to the end, even if just for practice.
I laid out the shape of the finished piece on a piece of oak ply and cut
that roughly to shape. I put a template bit in the router table with the
roller on the bottom. Thus the template was beneath the work piece. I
decided to just fasten the template to the work with spring clamps to
see how that would work out.
I can't overemphasize how pleased (and surprised) I was at the ease of
the process. In a very sort time I had a piece exactly the same shape as
the template, which is of course what is supposed to happen, but I have
come to expect complications.
The spring clamps worked out pretty well, too, although I will probably
try to use a different method in the future.
The process, including making the template, was so easy in fact, that I
found myself thinking I could do it a little better. The curve on my
test piece was made from three arcs. It looked goo on the computer
screen, but something about it didn't quite "flow" when I saw it in the
flesh.
Back to Sketchup. As an aside, I find that one effect of Sketchup is
that a perfectly innocent project can acquire complications. :)
I wanted the curve to "flow" into a straight edge at the bottom.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/ (the original curve)
But a single arc could not be tangent to that edge AND intersect the
front of the upper shelf. Some other shape was needed. I figured
(correctly) that someone must have created a plug-in for Bezier curves
and I downloaded one.
Here are the two templates, to compare the curves:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12870464134/in/photostream/
It turns out that Sketchup defaults to printing the shape of the
viewing window (geez - is there a setting to fix this?). I narrowed the
window on the computer and was then able to print the template on 2
sheets of paper.
This time I jigsawed the MDF a little closer to the line. I got to
thinking about how I could keep the template edge square. I laid the mdf
on a piece of scrap and turned the file edge-down on the (sacrificial)
work surface, hoping that would keep the file face plumb.
After a few seconds of that I took out a block plane instead(feel free
to tell me this was crazy). I raised the template MDF a little above the
work surface with a scrap of the same MDF. Then I laid the plane on its
side on the work surface and started removing the waste down to the
line. Although using a straight plane to shave down a curved surface
(convex, of course) seemed a little odd (and MDF at that), it worked
pretty well.
To further smooth the edge, I wrapped a piece of sandpaper around a
small block and laid THAT face down on the work surface, using its edge
to sand the curve. Again, the edge removing the material was kept plumb.
As ass-backward as this may sound, the edge of the template was a marked
improvement over my first attempt. It had no obvious waviness to it.
I proceeded to make the four pieces. It was remarkably quick and I like
the results. Fun too. I can already see ways that I might have improved
the process. I will definitely be doing more of this sort of thing in
the future.
Thanks to all for the advice.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 3/2/2014 9:10 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/1/2014 11:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> I proceeded to make the four pieces. It was remarkably quick and I like
>> the results. Fun too. I can already see ways that I might have improved
>> the process. I will definitely be doing more of this sort of thing in
>> the future.
>
> Just a few, of dozens, curve making concepts:
>
> Download SU 2014, there are a couple of new ways to make arcs.
>
> Use the SU "Bezier Curve" plug-in to make your curves.
That's the one I used. It worked well.
> Cut a 1/8" thick strip off the edge of a board long enough to make your
> curve; drill a small hole in each end and use a piece of string, like a
> bow string, to bend the strip to the proper curve, thusly:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05n5520s1b.jpg?c=2
I read somewhere about making the strip wider at one end, or in the
middle, to change the natural shape of the curve. (it curves more
tightly where it is narrow).
> Using that same thin strip, hammer in some small finish nails in the
> appropriate spots to bend the strip around for the curve you want.
>
> Use purchased or homemade pencil compasses of various sizes to make your
> curves.
>
> Cheap plastic "French Curves", available at any office supply store, of
> various sizes are hard to beat for laying out curves,
We used those in drafting class back in junior high. I can scarcely
imagine the trouble I could get myself into with one of those now. :)
particularly when
> using it in conjunction with that compass, or the appropriate sizes edge
> of a can, a lid or a bucket.
My first thought was to search around the house for the proper-sized
object. :)
>
> A "pattern maker's rasp" is a nice thing to have when fairing curves in
> your template.
>
> When fairing a curve, cut a thin, flexible strip off the edge of a scrap
> board and glue your sandpaper to that. Putting little wooden
> "knobs/blocks" on each end makes it easier to hold and to keep the
> faired edges perpendicular to the face.
Cutting thin flexible strips is not my strong suit, but you've given me
some ideas.
>
> Often attaching sandpaper on the edge of the off cut when rough cutting
> your curve will make a good fairing tool.
I thought of that, but the material I used was pretty thin. I also
thought of gluing sandpaper onto the side of the block.
>
> An "oscillating spindle sander" is a good investment if you are going to
> be doing furniture with a lot of curved parts. Great for both making
> your templates, and for smoothing/making perpindicular the curve edges
> in the work piece.
Definitely the tool I knew I was making up for the lack of. I had
considered jury-rigging a drill with one of those cylindrical sanding
attachments through a hole in a piece of scrap, but doing it by hand
worked out pretty well for now.
>
> Most important: Make the effort, and take all the time you need, to make
> your curved templates PERFECT, for you will eventually save more time in
> its use than you will in the making of it.
As I mentioned, the process was much easier than I had expected, which
"inspired" me to make the second attempt.
Thanks for the tips. Now to try my hand at the stopped dados. Good thing
I still have the template; I may need to remake the parts. :)
I had considered making the dados first, by the way, so I'd be working
on rectangular stock. Time will tell if that would have saved me some
grief.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> This time I jigsawed the MDF a little closer to the line.
> I got to thinking about how I could keep the template edge square.
> I laid the mdf on a piece of scrap and turned the file edge-down on the
> (sacrificial) work surface, hoping that would keep the file face plumb.
Actually, templates don't HAVE to be square. It is nice if they are but as
long as the template has a continuous diameter/shape for the bearingto ride
on, you are good to go...it is going to follow the most outward part of the
template, isn't going to wobble in and out if the template isn't square.
That assumes you are keeping the router flat and not tipping it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
I really am having a productive weekend, by my standards anyway.
Yesterday I cut some project parts using a router template that I made,
a first for me. Today, another new adventure.
As suggested by Swingman, I redesigned my kitchen shelf unit using
stopped dadoes.:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
My task for today was to figure out a way to make them. I don't have
dado blades, chiefly because I don't have a saw to put them on. I make
dadoes with a router and a jig I built a couple of projects back. I
decided to try to modify the jig with some sort of "stop". Here's what I
came up with:
I made a stop that would fit in the channel of the jig out of scrap:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
The "tab" is to support the stop above the work. Note also the screw in
the end of the stop:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889939033/in/photostream/
That was to provide some fine adjustability. The screw butts up against
a fixed block that I screwed in at the far end of the channel. I used
one of the shelves that will mate with the stopped dado to set the length:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889847285/in/photostream/
I screwed the whole jig into the work surface and screwed in a "fence"
to the left of the jig for the work pieces to butt up against (for
repeatability). Too bad I could only "repeat" twice with that setup; the
other two pieces had to be mirror images, requiring me to reconfigure
the "fence" on the other side.
I also (re-)discovered what I assume is an unavoidable part of
woodworking. I spent the better part of two hours thinking up, building
and modifying the jig. Then 2 minutes actually making each cut. I guess
that's a good thing; it means the setup was easy to use. Here's video of
the brief, most rewarding part of the process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85HD7VJFnCk&feature=youtu.be
Hey, you can even see me almost make a big mistake. :)
Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
[Oops, the previous post had a bad link]
I really am having a productive weekend, by my standards anyway.
Yesterday I cut some project parts using a router template that I made,
a first for me. Today, another new adventure.
As suggested by Swingman, I redesigned my kitchen shelf unit using
stopped dadoes.:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/
My task for today was to figure out a way to make them. I don't have
dado blades, chiefly because I don't have a saw to put them on. I make
dadoes with a router and a jig I built a couple of projects back. I
decided to try to modify the jig with some sort of "stop". Here's what I
came up with:
I made a stop that would fit in the channel of the jig out of scrap:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889846435/
The "tab" is to support the stop above the work. Note also the screw in
the end of the stop:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889939033/in/photostream/
That was to provide some fine adjustability. The screw butts up against
a fixed block that I screwed in at the far end of the channel. I used
one of the shelves that will mate with the stopped dado to set the length:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12889847285/in/photostream/
I screwed the whole jig into the work surface and screwed in a "fence"
to the left of the jig for the work pieces to butt up against (for
repeatability). Too bad I could only "repeat" twice with that setup; the
other two pieces had to be mirror images, requiring me to reconfigure
the "fence" on the other side.
I also (re-)discovered what I assume is an unavoidable part of
woodworking. I spent the better part of two hours thinking up, building
and modifying the jig. Then 2 minutes actually making each cut. I guess
that's a good thing; it means the setup was easy to use. Here's video of
the brief, most rewarding part of the process:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85HD7VJFnCk&feature=youtu.be
Hey, you can even see me almost make a big mistake. :)
Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but there is no particuar
reason to do so as whatever goes into the dado can hide the minor gap if the
dado end is left rounded.
Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else with the
time it takes to square them.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
>> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>
> There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but there is no particuar
> reason to do so as whatever goes into the dado can hide the minor gap if the
> dado end is left rounded.
>
> Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else with the
> time it takes to square them.
>
I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2" diameter bit,
thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I notch the ends
of the shelves (which seems like at least as much work as squaring the
corners), the gap will be visible.
Here's the design:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/in/set-72157641733510634
The stopped dadoes hold the small lower shelves.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 3/3/2014 9:05 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
...
>> Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else with the
>> time it takes to square them.
>>
> I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2" diameter bit,
> thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I notch the ends
> of the shelves (which seems like at least as much work as squaring the
> corners), the gap will be visible.
...
It's generally quicker to cut a small rabbet in the end of the shelf
than to clean up the end of the dado...all it takes is a dovetail saw
and the perhaps a quick cleanup/pare to line w/ a (sharp) chisel. This
is all outside work as opposed to squaring up the dado with all chisel
work. If the size of the piece isn't too large you can also cut them
out on the tablesaw.
But in the end, it's your choice...
--
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]
>>
>>> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>>
>> There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but there is no
>> particuar reason to do so as whatever goes into the dado can hide
>> the minor gap if the dado end is left rounded.
>>
>> Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else
>> with the time it takes to square them.
>>
> I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2" diameter
> bit, thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I notch the
> ends of the shelves (which seems like at least as much work as squaring
> the
> corners), the gap will be visible.
>
Nope - just cut back the leading shoulder and let the shoulder cover that
rounded part.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> > "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]
> >
> > > Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
> >
> > There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but
> > there is no particuar reason to do so as whatever goes
> > into the dado can hide the minor gap if the dado end is
> > left rounded. Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do
> > something else with the time it takes to square them.
> >
> I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2"
> diameter bit, thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I
> notch the ends of the shelves
As everyone else said, right, that's what one does.
> (which seems like at least as much work as
> squaring the corners),
It's not, a moment or so with a dozuki or other similar and you are
finished. An added benefit is that you can gain some wiggle room viv a vis
the dado and what's going into it...dado too long?, notch covers it...dado
too short?, cut a longer notch.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 3/3/2014 3:02 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> On 3/3/2014 7:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>>> "Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]
>>>
>>>> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>>>
>>> There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but
>>> there is no particuar reason to do so as whatever goes
>>> into the dado can hide the minor gap if the dado end is
>>> left rounded. Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do
>>> something else with the time it takes to square them.
>>>
>> I'm not sure what you mean. I made the dadoes with a 1/2"
>> diameter bit, thus the corners are rounded with a 1/4" radius. Unless I
>> notch the ends of the shelves
>
> As everyone else said, right, that's what one does.
>
>> (which seems like at least as much work as
>> squaring the corners),
>
> It's not, a moment or so with a dozuki or other similar and you are
> finished. An added benefit is that you can gain some wiggle room viv a vis
> the dado and what's going into it...dado too long?, notch covers it...dado
> too short?, cut a longer notch.
>
Well then. That's interesting. I may have cut the dado too "perfectly"
(lengthwise) to cover it the way you suggest. But your way would have
made it easier to set up the dado. Thanks for the tip.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
In article <[email protected]>, dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]
>
>> Next up: squaring up the ends of the dadoes.
>
>There is certainly nothing wrong in doing that but there is no particuar
>reason to do so as whatever goes into the dado can hide the minor gap if the
>dado end is left rounded.
>
>Personally, I leave them rounded, would rather do something else with the
>time it takes to square them.
>
I also just leave them as is most of the time; an alternative is to round
over the portion of the board that fits in the dado. A rasp works well
and quickly.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
On 6/7/2014 12:07 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Got this in FWW's email letter this morning:
>
> SUBJECT:Ultimate routing jig
>
> Not that I necessarily think this is, as they say in their email, the
> "ultimate" pattern routing jig; and I can say with certainly that I
> don't think it is all that "clever" for a number of reasons - lack of
> adaptability to size and provisions for backing up edges to prevent
> tearout are a couple - nonetheless thought it was definitely germane to
> this discussion and might be useful to have in your bag of tricks:
>
> http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/pattern-routing-jig-is-safer-and-faster.aspx?&lookup=auto&V18=&V19=&V20=&V21=&V22=&V23=&V24=&V25=&V26=&V53=&V54=&Taun_Per_Flag=true&&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=fw_eletter&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter
>
>
I was thinking about a more reusable jig when I made the two different
sets of pattern-routed parts. But it wasn't that difficult to simply
remake the jig in my case.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/14316360681/in/set-72157644207411490
I made my MDF templates oversized, with a generous margin around three
sides. That made it easy to simply screw in the fence pieces from
underneath. I did need to countersink them, which added a step, but it
was still very quick.
Here are my (relatively uninformed) concerns about the Fine Woodworking
jig.
1. The toggle clamps are at a fixed distance apart. In the picture on
this page
http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/smart-jig-for-pattern-routing.aspx
the clamps look too close together for the span of the piece, at least
to me. I'd worry about something moving as the grain changed. Since they
have the clamps on blocks, rather than on a continuous piece of wood,
they'd be a drag to move. If I were to make something like this, I think
I'd make the clamps more easily movable.
2. There's no "end fence".
It seems to me that you'd get more repeatable (or at least quicker)
registration with an end fence of some kind rather than lining up the
template and the work by eye.
3. The router bit has to protrude further from the table. Does this
matter? Or, more personally, does it matter if your router table setup
is less than top quality? I'm not sure.
4. You can't see the work, without a mirror, anyway. I'm not sure why,
but I liked seeing the work piece itself, at least the top edge, as the
router did its job.
Having said all that, it does give me some interesting ideas. Thanks.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 6/10/2014 7:59 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Best to go to longer bits, and 1/2" shanks and collets, if you need to
> get excess height, as you stand a better chance of less flex and run out
> causing problems, not to mention the danger of a bit coming loose.
Exactly the things I was wondering about. Someday I intend to build a
router table and get a better router to put in it. But for now, it's
1/4" collets. I think I'll stick with my jig method for the moment.
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> I'm pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a
> local plastics store, which would take care of that.
Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as material for a
router based template for pattern routing.
Just me.
YMMV ...
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)