Hi folks,
Having used various cheapo tenon saws (with thick blades and big teeth
set) I decided to take the plunge and try a LN "carcass" saw.
On the one I've bought I've found that the blade isn't quite true (it's
obvious when looking down the blade) - on the concave side its out by ~6
thou in the middle.
Is this realistically an amount that matters ?
Although I bought it for sawing the shoulders of small tenons, I tried
it on some 5" shoulders (only 1/4" deep) that I happened to be cutting
in some ash and found it hard to cut accurately to the scribed line (*1)
- though I'm the first to admit that this could well be due to an
absence of skill :)
thanks,
graham.
*1 - my technique, for want of a better word, is to start off cutting on
the right-hand-side of the scribed line (I'm right handed) on the far
edge and as the cut progresses gradually lower the saw so that
eventually it's cutting the full width (I do this to stop it skating
about all over the piece when I start the cut). I found that by the time
the saw was cutting full-width the blade had crossed the scribed line.
Looking down on the saw it's concave on the left-hand-side.
"Graham" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Archangel wrote:
>> <reply snipped>
>
>
> Thanks for replying - not knowing what's right & what isn't is a real
> problem for an inexperienced w.worker, especially as it's not possible to
> check and compare tools before buying mailorder (what few local "tool"
> shops remain generally only carry the cheapest of items). But I struggle
> on, sniff :)
>
> In the end I decided to send it back on the basis that it should be as
> straight as saws 1/3rd of its price.
>
>
> g.
I have the saw. It's straight. I'd be very surprised if they don't make it
right.
I really like the saw. It's good that I do since I have three of their saws,
including
cross cut carcass and the dovetail saw.
Archangel wrote:
> <reply snipped>
Thanks for replying - not knowing what's right & what isn't is a real
problem for an inexperienced w.worker, especially as it's not possible
to check and compare tools before buying mailorder (what few local
"tool" shops remain generally only carry the cheapest of items). But I
struggle on, sniff :)
In the end I decided to send it back on the basis that it should be as
straight as saws 1/3rd of its price.
g.
Graham <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi folks,
>
>Having used various cheapo tenon saws (with thick blades and big teeth
>set) I decided to take the plunge and try a LN "carcass" saw.
>On the one I've bought I've found that the blade isn't quite true (it's
>obvious when looking down the blade) - on the concave side its out by ~6
>thou in the middle.
Doesn't seem like a lot, but I'm suprised LN let it go out with any degree of
noticeable curve.
>
>Is this realistically an amount that matters ?
>
>Although I bought it for sawing the shoulders of small tenons, I tried
>it on some 5" shoulders (only 1/4" deep) that I happened to be cutting
>in some ash and found it hard to cut accurately to the scribed line (*1)
>- though I'm the first to admit that this could well be due to an
>absence of skill :)
>
Could be a bit of both... But I'd blame it on the saw ;-)
Especially in a western style saw a little curve can make the saw pretty near
uncontrollable in a long kerf. Might give LN a call and see what they think is
acceptable.