I have a computer desk to assemble; after unpacking, it was discovered
to have large exposed areas of raw mdf. As I'm fairly allergic to the
formaldehyde used in the material (suffering severe throat and sinus
inflammation), I was wondering if an application of something like
Varathane might be sufficient to contain the offgassing? There are a
few raw ends which I realize are more porous, but the majority of the
threat as far as I can tell is from the large flat surfaces on the
unfinished sides of the materials.
Anyone have a simple/cheap containment method, or are we just better
advised to ditch the mdf and get something of real wood?
Paint will work fine to seal the fumes. I'd recommend a shellac based
primer and then whatever latex paint you won't to use for the final
coat. For any exposed edges, I used to use spackle, but its such a
PITA to sand, I started using glue. That's right, plain old
woodworkers glue. It sands much cleaner than spakle and I think the
finished edge is much smoother to the touch.
Chuck
Woodchuck34 wrote:
> Paint will work fine to seal the fumes. I'd recommend a shellac based
> primer and then whatever latex paint you won't to use for the final
> coat. For any exposed edges, I used to use spackle, but its such a
> PITA to sand, I started using glue. That's right, plain old
> woodworkers glue. It sands much cleaner than spakle and I think the
> finished edge is much smoother to the touch.
How does it take primer, and paint? Do you use normal primer, or the
high-adhesion stuff?
JP
Jay Pique wrote:
> Woodchuck34 wrote:
> > Paint will work fine to seal the fumes. I'd recommend a shellac based
> > primer and then whatever latex paint you won't to use for the final
> > coat. For any exposed edges, I used to use spackle, but its such a
> > PITA to sand, I started using glue. That's right, plain old
> > woodworkers glue. It sands much cleaner than spakle and I think the
> > finished edge is much smoother to the touch.
>
> How does it take primer, and paint? Do you use normal primer, or the
> high-adhesion stuff?
>
> JP
Sorry for the delay in getting back....
I always use Kilz or Zinsser's, and for the longest time used the oil
based primers, but thanks to some of the good folks here, I started
using shellac based and I have had much better results. It is much
easier to apply, dries faster, and requires only a light sanding in
between coats. The key, and this is only is you want a silky smooth
finish like for a molding, is to treat the edges with something. I now
use glue. If you don't need a silky smooth finish on the edges and
just want to seal it, I just use the primer. You'll have to apply a
lot more coats on the edges, it really sucks the paint up.
Chuck
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have a computer desk to assemble; after unpacking, it was discovered
> to have large exposed areas of raw mdf. As I'm fairly allergic to the
> formaldehyde used in the material (suffering severe throat and sinus
> inflammation), I was wondering if an application of something like
> Varathane might be sufficient to contain the offgassing? There are a
> few raw ends which I realize are more porous, but the majority of the
> threat as far as I can tell is from the large flat surfaces on the
> unfinished sides of the materials.
>
> Anyone have a simple/cheap containment method, or are we just better
> advised to ditch the mdf and get something of real wood?
The easiest, but longest method timewise, would be to put the desk in a warm
to hot environment and basically cook the fumes off... I have the same types
of reactions to things like carpet and polyester fiber fill in coats,
pillows and quilt batting. In the warmer months my wife puts the quilt
batting on an unconditioned enclosed porch and lets it sit there for a
couple weeks. The alternative is to throw the items in the dryer. For things
like particle board, MDF, and other sheet goods I left the stuff sit in the
garage for a few weeks, with air space all around, until the fumes
dissipate.
John
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Anyone have a simple/cheap containment method, or are we just better
> advised to ditch the mdf and get something of real wood?
>
Two coats of polyurethane varnish?
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
[email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
: I have a computer desk to assemble; after unpacking, it was discovered
: to have large exposed areas of raw mdf. As I'm fairly allergic to the
: formaldehyde used in the material (suffering severe throat and sinus
: inflammation), I was wondering if an application of something like
: Varathane might be sufficient to contain the offgassing? There are a
: few raw ends which I realize are more porous, but the majority of the
: threat as far as I can tell is from the large flat surfaces on the
: unfinished sides of the materials.
: Anyone have a simple/cheap containment method, or are we just better
: advised to ditch the mdf and get something of real wood?
Fastest thing to do is use shellac. Dries fast, goes on easy, and
will seal very nicely. Look for Bullseye sealer, or shellac,
at better hardware stores or home centers.
-- Andy Barss
On 8 Mar 2006 12:24:09 -0800, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a computer desk to assemble; after unpacking, it was discovered
>to have large exposed areas of raw mdf. As I'm fairly allergic to the
>formaldehyde used in the material (suffering severe throat and sinus
>inflammation), I was wondering if an application of something like
>Varathane might be sufficient to contain the offgassing? There are a
>few raw ends which I realize are more porous, but the majority of the
>threat as far as I can tell is from the large flat surfaces on the
>unfinished sides of the materials.
>
>Anyone have a simple/cheap containment method, or are we just better
>advised to ditch the mdf and get something of real wood?
You can leave the desk in a garage for a couple months to de-gas.