I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
to/from garage).
So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
Is that explanation understandable?
Is something like that, sold anywhere?
thanks
i
Someone with a big enough bandsaw could cut them, and then sell 'em to
you. Where are you located? Tom
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> thanks
>
> i
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> thanks
>
> i
You could always get a 3 foot section, clamp it to two sawhorses, then
take a handsaw and cut it in half.
If you wanted to get real fancy, you could screw some 1/2" plywood to
your new wedges.
If you're moving really heavy stuff, you might want to use a third
wedge there in the middle for some extra support.
Now that I think about it, isn't 12" a bit tall for a normal step?
Wouldn't a 2x8 be better?
-Nathan
N Hurst wrote:
> Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> > I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> > interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> > to/from garage).
> >
> > So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> > the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> > them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> > one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
> >
> > Is that explanation understandable?
> >
> > Is something like that, sold anywhere?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > i
> You could always get a 3 foot section, clamp it to two sawhorses, then
> take a handsaw and cut it in half.
>
> If you wanted to get real fancy, you could screw some 1/2" plywood to
> your new wedges.
>
> If you're moving really heavy stuff, you might want to use a third
> wedge there in the middle for some extra support.
>
> Now that I think about it, isn't 12" a bit tall for a normal step?
> Wouldn't a 2x8 be better?
>
> -Nathan
Strike that last comment from me.
I actually understood what you were saying right after I hit "submit."
Yeah, I'd go with some cement or levelling compound. Barring that, you
could probably buy some quarter inch plywod or hardboard and just take
a belt sander to it to get your desires grade.
-Nathan
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> thanks
>
> i
What about a piece of plywood with blocks attached where needed to
support the ramp?
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
Nope. You could use the leveling compound as suggested, or you could
use cedar shingles glued together. Not sure of the loads you're moving
around, so can't comment on how long the cedar shims would last, but
they're cheap, already tapered and cheap.
R
N Hurst wrote:
> Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> > I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> > interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> > to/from garage).
> >
> > So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> > the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> > them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> > one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
> >
> > Is that explanation understandable?
> >
> > Is something like that, sold anywhere?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > i
> You could always get a 3 foot section, clamp it to two sawhorses, then
> take a handsaw and cut it in half.
>
> If you wanted to get real fancy, you could screw some 1/2" plywood to
> your new wedges.
>
> If you're moving really heavy stuff, you might want to use a third
> wedge there in the middle for some extra support.
>
> Now that I think about it, isn't 12" a bit tall for a normal step?
> Wouldn't a 2x8 be better?
>
> -Nathan
Strike that last comment from me.
I actually understood what you were saying right after I hit "submit."
Yeah, I'd go with some cement or levelling compound. Barring that, you
could probably buy some quarter inch plywod or hardboard and just take
a belt sander to it to get your desires grade.
-Nathan
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:15 -0400, Lee Gordon <[email protected]> wrote:
> ><<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> > the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> > them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> > one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
IIUC you want to make beveled boards whereon the bevel
runs accross the entire face. The boards will be like wedges,
exept they will taper accross the width, rather than the
length.
What I don't understand is how 1/5" of an inch of taper
accross the width of a step would be enough to help.
> >
> > How about using floor-leveling compound.
> >
>
> That would make the door not close -- these things need to be
> removable.
>
You could use floor-leveling compound on top of thin plyood,
and don't nail or glue the plywood down.
Thre is no material that you can taper to 0" exactly and not
have that edge break off leaving you with a 'step' greater than
0".
--
FF
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> thanks
>
How about if you take a cold chisel to those 'steps'
and bevel them?
--
FF
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> On 26 Oct 2006 11:51:32 -0700, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> >> On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:15 -0400, Lee Gordon <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> ><<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> >> > the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> >> > them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> >> > one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
> >
> > IIUC you want to make beveled boards whereon the bevel
> > runs accross the entire face. The boards will be like wedges,
> > exept they will taper accross the width, rather than the
> > length.
> >
> > What I don't understand is how 1/5" of an inch of taper
> > accross the width of a step would be enough to help.
>
> That should have been 1.5", sorry ("/" is located next to "." on my
> keyboard).
>
That makes sense now.
The kind of cut you need is called 'resawing'
as it is what one does to take a board and saw
it again to make two boards of the same width
and length. Your situation is similar.
It can be done with care with a handsaw with a
ripping blade. You probably could do it in ten
minutes with a 4 or 5 points per inch Disston
D-8, including stopping to catch your breath.
Roy Underhill could do it in half that time while
singing Devo's "Whip it".
Nahrm would do it in 60 seconds on his 18"
bandsw but he'd spend an hour making
the jig.
The flloor leveling compound I used last did not cure
well in thicknesses over 1./8". Ordinary cement
would. Again, you could put it on a thin plywood
base, and reinforce it with metal mesh (hardware
cloth) so it would be removeable. MIght want to
seal both sides of the plywood with shellac first,
so it doesn't delaminate from the moisture
--
FF
Good thinking, Nova! Tom
Nova wrote:
> Use your planer by building a sled and block up the leading edge of the
> board by 1.5".
>
> --
> Jack Novak
> Buffalo, NY - USA
> [email protected]
"N Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I actually understood what you were saying right after I hit "submit."
>
I'm glad someone does! :)
At first I thought he was referring to steps as in stairs, but after reading
the replies I am thinking he means the floor is uneven in two places??
Router jig. The scarf jig in Fred Binghams book (thanks Lew) would work
great.
"Ignoramus32469" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
> to/from garage).
>
> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
> Is that explanation understandable?
>
> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> thanks
>
> i
<<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
How about using floor-leveling compound.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
_________________________________
Lee Gordon
http://www.leegordonproductions.com
On 26 Oct 2006 09:04:41 -0700, tom <[email protected]> wrote:
> Someone with a big enough bandsaw could cut them, and then sell 'em to
> you. Where are you located? Tom
A little west of Chicago, IL. And yes, I would pay a little for
them.
i
> Ignoramus32469 wrote:
>> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
>> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
>> to/from garage).
>>
>> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
>> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
>> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
>> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>>
>> Is that explanation understandable?
>>
>> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> i
>
On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:15 -0400, Lee Gordon <[email protected]> wrote:
><<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
>
> How about using floor-leveling compound.
>
That would make the door not close -- these things need to be
removable.
i
On 26 Oct 2006 09:55:31 -0700, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ignoramus32469 wrote:
>> I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
>> interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
>> to/from garage).
>>
>> So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
>> the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
>> them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
>> one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>>
>> Is that explanation understandable?
>>
>> Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
> Nope. You could use the leveling compound as suggested, or you could
> use cedar shingles glued together. Not sure of the loads you're moving
> around, so can't comment on how long the cedar shims would last, but
> they're cheap, already tapered and cheap.
The loads are up to 800 lbs on four wheels, so up to 500 lbs per pair
of wheels worst case.
Example of such a load is here
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Testing-Cummins-Diesel-Engine-L423D/
i
On 26 Oct 2006 11:51:32 -0700, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Ignoramus32469 wrote:
>> On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:15 -0400, Lee Gordon <[email protected]> wrote:
>> ><<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
>> > the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
>> > them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
>> > one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
>
> IIUC you want to make beveled boards whereon the bevel
> runs accross the entire face. The boards will be like wedges,
> exept they will taper accross the width, rather than the
> length.
>
> What I don't understand is how 1/5" of an inch of taper
> accross the width of a step would be enough to help.
That should have been 1.5", sorry ("/" is located next to "." on my
keyboard).
i
Ignoramus32469 wrote:
> On 26 Oct 2006 11:51:32 -0700, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Ignoramus32469 wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 12:07:15 -0400, Lee Gordon <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>><<So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
>>>>the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
>>>>them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
>>>>one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).>>
>>
>>IIUC you want to make beveled boards whereon the bevel
>>runs accross the entire face. The boards will be like wedges,
>>exept they will taper accross the width, rather than the
>>length.
>>
>>What I don't understand is how 1/5" of an inch of taper
>>accross the width of a step would be enough to help.
>
>
> That should have been 1.5", sorry ("/" is located next to "." on my
> keyboard).
>
> i
Use your planer by building a sled and block up the leading edge of the
board by 1.5".
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Thu, 26 Oct 2006 15:57:54 +0000 (UTC), Ignoramus32469
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a garage with two small "steps" made of concrete. They
>interfere with my material handling tasks (moving dollies and carts
>to/from garage).
>
>So, I would like to have a board such as 2x12, cut "diagonally" along
>the length to form two wooden wedges to put on these "steps" to smooth
>them. I need them at least 2 ft long, 10-12 inches wide, 1/5" tall on
>one side and 0" tall on another (diagonal cut).
>
>Is that explanation understandable?
>
>Is something like that, sold anywhere?
>
>thanks
>
>i
Make them from three pieces of stock. A hollow center will take very
little strength away, plus they will be lighter to handle. Another
option is to make a ramp. Fasten a few roof shingles to it for some
friction grip. You can also purchase pre-made metal ramps from auto
stores.
Use your planer by building a sled and block up the leading edge of the
>> board by 1.5".
Tom's suggestion is right on the money. I often make beveled water tables,
window sills, etc. this way. Build a simple jig to elevate one side of the
board and send it throught the planer. --dave
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good thinking, Nova! Tom
> Nova wrote:
>
>
>> Use your planer by building a sled and block up the leading edge of the
>> board by 1.5".
>>
>> --
>> Jack Novak
>> Buffalo, NY - USA
>> [email protected]
>