Hey all!
I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths
on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping
the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get
my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the
outfeed of the saw could help.
I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure
out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
Any advice?
Chris Mooney
Chris
Route and inset some t-track flush with the table top to let you
attach accesorres
John
On Thu, 08 Jan 2004 19:19:30 -0600, Christopher Mooney
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hey all!
>
>I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths
>on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping
>the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get
>my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the
>outfeed of the saw could help.
>
>I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure
>out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
>
>Any advice?
>
>Chris Mooney
Pretty important on a RAS to have a bit of hold-down on the infeed as well.
Need not be fancy, just a board with a curved edge clamped to the fence to
keep the board you're feeding from climbing and possibly kicking back.
"jo4hn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Clamp featherboards on the infeed side. Clamp a straight piece of board
> on the outfeed side to gently hold things in line without pinching the
> saw curf. Sometimes featherboards on the top of the board are helpful.
> mahalo,
> jo4hn
>
The teeth pick up, therefore the distance between teeth and the feed rate
must be carefully monitored or the teeth WILL lift, regardless of "heel."
Simple physics. Now as most of us are not as perfect as you, or "one" with
our high-class saws, we also give ourselves a margin of safety by using
simple hold-downs. Safety is not a grinning matter.
Now, if you have a guard like my Powerkraft, you have the built-in hold-down
by rotating the forward end down, and extending the antikickback pawls on
the other side of the blade. Else, use the wooden fingers versus the flesh.
Some even use hold-downs on tablesaws, where the impact of the cut is down
into the table, rather than up - same reason.
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A properly adjusted RAS with a flat table does NOT need hold downs on the
in
> feed side for rip operations. If you have moving wood, it isn't aligned
and
> or your wood ain't flat. If you can't align your RAS to perform this way
you
> might consider purchasing a DeWalt RAS!
>
> VBG
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Pretty important on a RAS to have a bit of hold-down on the infeed as
> well.
> > Need not be fancy, just a board with a curved edge clamped to the fence
to
> > keep the board you're feeding from climbing and possibly kicking back.
> >
> > "jo4hn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > Clamp featherboards on the infeed side. Clamp a straight piece of
board
> > > on the outfeed side to gently hold things in line without pinching the
> > > saw curf. Sometimes featherboards on the top of the board are
helpful.
> > > mahalo,
> > > jo4hn
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Chris,
If your wood is walking during a rip it's because the saw isn't in correct
alignment. What brand RAS do you have?
FWIW, I've run a commercial furniture shop for 20+ years, use only the RAS
and have never used a feather board. It isn't necessary.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>Now, if you have a guard like my Powerkraft, you have the built-in
hold-down
by rotating the forward end down, and extending the antikickback pawls on
the other side of the blade.
No one is suggesting ripping without the guard or the anti kick hold down
built into the guard. If your wood is moving during the rip it's alignment
or your wood ain't flat. Oh BTW, I regret I didn't mention, safe ripping
also includes using a Forrest WW1 blade with the TCP grind and NO OTHER
BLADE or profile.
>Now as most of us are not as perfect as you,
I know...
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Christopher Mooney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I thought a featherboard on the
> outfeed of the saw could help.
>
Outfeed? You mean to push both cut pieces into the fence and pinch the
blade?
You want the wood held before the blade.
Ed
featherboards go on the infeed side. you don't want to pinch the board
together, now that there is kerf in it. that's dangerous.
dave
Christopher Mooney wrote:
> Hey all!
>
> I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths
> on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping
> the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get
> my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the
> outfeed of the saw could help.
>
> I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure
> out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Chris Mooney
DOH!!! No wonder that didn't look right in my mind! I knew I was
missing something, but couldn't put my finger on it :)
Chris Mooney
On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 03:09:02 GMT, Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote:
>featherboards go on the infeed side. you don't want to pinch the board
>together, now that there is kerf in it. that's dangerous.
>
>dave
>
>Christopher Mooney wrote:
>
>> Hey all!
>>
>> I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths
>> on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping
>> the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get
>> my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the
>> outfeed of the saw could help.
>>
>> I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure
>> out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
>>
>> Any advice?
>>
>> Chris Mooney
A properly adjusted RAS with a flat table does NOT need hold downs on the in
feed side for rip operations. If you have moving wood, it isn't aligned and
or your wood ain't flat. If you can't align your RAS to perform this way you
might consider purchasing a DeWalt RAS!
VBG
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Pretty important on a RAS to have a bit of hold-down on the infeed as
well.
> Need not be fancy, just a board with a curved edge clamped to the fence to
> keep the board you're feeding from climbing and possibly kicking back.
>
> "jo4hn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Clamp featherboards on the infeed side. Clamp a straight piece of board
> > on the outfeed side to gently hold things in line without pinching the
> > saw curf. Sometimes featherboards on the top of the board are helpful.
> > mahalo,
> > jo4hn
> >
>
>
The table on the RAS is a wooden sacrificial table. In other words you will
change it out when it gets worn and cut to pieces. This being said, make a
feather board that is right for job you are doing, drill 2 holes (I use
slots for fine adjustment) in it so that you can screw it into the table on
the RAS and go to work. You can replace the fence on your RAS with a higher
fence to attach feather boards to the outfeed side of the table to control
lift that can occur when ripping if you wish. Use push sticks to control
the wood and keep fingers away from the blade, I prefer a straight stick
with a notch in the push end for this rather then the traditional curved
style push stick on the RAS. Placement of the feather boards on the infeed
side is critical, it should be placed just before the wood goes into the
blade, maybe a halfinch or so in front of the blade. IMHO
"Christopher Mooney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hey all!
>
> I just recently attempted ripping some 1x8x48 boards down to 3" widths
> on my RAS and did an okay job. However, I had some problems keeping
> the board firmly against the fence. Seeing as how I don't want to get
> my hands anywhere near the blade, I thought a featherboard on the
> outfeed of the saw could help.
>
> I am pretty sure I could make one myself, but I can't seem to figure
> out how to go about securing it to the table to keep it in place.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Chris Mooney