I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it up,
but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
All insights appreciated!
That's a great set of ideas.
"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> That's what I use for my router and circular saw. A 1" piece of square
aluminum
> tubing bought at a HD like store. I cut a 9' footer in two pieces and
attached
> the 54 " piece to a piece of 1/4" plywood which was about 12" wide and 48"
long
> until I ran the saw down one side and the jig saw down the other. Now the
edge of
> the plywood gives me the cut line of the CS on one side and the jig saw on
the
> other. The other 54" piece serves as a guide for my router. Cheers, JG
That's what I use for my router and circular saw. A 1" piece of square aluminum
tubing bought at a HD like store. I cut a 9' footer in two pieces and attached
the 54 " piece to a piece of 1/4" plywood which was about 12" wide and 48" long
until I ran the saw down one side and the jig saw down the other. Now the edge of
the plywood gives me the cut line of the CS on one side and the jig saw on the
other. The other 54" piece serves as a guide for my router. Cheers, JG
Joe Gorman wrote:
> Maybe a piece of square steel tubing. I've seen lenggths in the borgs but
> haven't checked them for straightness, but if you try be sure to check a
> few against each other, similar to making your own. If three of them match
> each other along the length they should be accurate. Untill they get dripped.
> Joe
>
> todd wrote:
>
> > "Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
> >>http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
> >>Joe
> >>who fully intends to do this, some day
> >
> >
> > Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
> > straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye
> > out for one as well.
> >
> > todd
> >
> >
John Doe wrote:
<snip>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
For most woodworking purposes the factory edge of a piece of plywood is straight
enough. Take a look at this jig, which is simple to make:
http://www.benchnotes.com/Skillsaw%20Guide/skillsaw_cutting_guide_boa.htm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
John Doe wrote:
>
> Bingo Bob, that's about what I had in mind. It's nice to know you can get a
> one piece 8-footer for about $99 (as opposed to spending $300 - 500 for a
> precision straight edge from Starret, etc).
>
> Thanks again.
>
> "Bob Schmall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:tDZdb.68$%[email protected]...
> > John:
> > Try this one. I have the 50" unit and use it quite a bit.
> >
> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index%3Dtools%26field-keywords%3DGriset%26url%3Dindex%3Dtools%26store-name%3Dhi/103-5909599-6835838
> > If the wrap gets in your way, go to Amazon.com, then tools and hardware,
> > then search on Griset.
> >
> > Bob Schmall
You'll love it, I've had mine for 3+ years, as well as the lighter 36" &
50" models. Before that I used a piece of 1/4"x3" steel flat stock that
I had a machinist true up for me on one edge. I still use it but only as
a straight edge for when I'm scoring long pieces of laminate.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
In rec.woodworking
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
>sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
>8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE.
You have to forgive me because I'm a natural born smart ass. May I ask WHY
you purchased this and then called it a piece of garbage? Didn't you
realize it in the store?
Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one. Your
comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I think
its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just right for
clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for your saw
or router. Its stable and smooth and does that job just perfectly. That's
something to consider - smoothely guiding a 2-3 HP handheld saw or router.
You need something that is sturdy and thick enough that you can safely press
the whirling dirvish against it with confidence.
Last year I made some heavy duty shelves for my garage that required routing
a bunch of 3/4" wide slots in a bunch of 2x4's. These slots needed to line
up reasonably well, so I clamped them together in groups of eight with pipe
clamps, clamped down the Johnson straight edge and routed away. It was
perfect.
Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious in
looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make sure the
two pieces stay together during the job.
When I cut sheet stock, I always measure from the factory straight side of
the plywood or whatever at multiple points and mark it, then lay down the
straight edge along those marks and clamp it down. In fact now that I think
about it, using a "straight edge standard" to line up the Johnson is
something I may have done once - but that is not how I really use it. The
other thing - I use the heck out of 1/2 the Johnson. Would I want a one
piece 8 foot? Yes, but not without having a shorter version to go with it.
You've received all kinds of information in your query. That's what I like
about this conference. It arms you with facts, viewpoints and information
with very little BS so you can make your own decision.
Bob
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:8N%[email protected]...
> Appreciate the comments Bob, but no, I wasn't expecting too much from the
> Johnson guide. My big beef was that it was two pieces in order to rip a
8ft
> cut. And if you saw the way the two aluminum pieces butted up end-to-end
you
> would laugh at how badly they were machined. (I'm slowly learning that
> everything at HD and Lowes is good enough for a homeowner that doesn't
know
> any better.) If I needed to carry around a "straight-edge-standard" just
to
> "straighten-out" my straight edge every time I needed it, then it kinda
> defeats the purpose of having a "straight edge"...lol!
>
> Nope, all I was looking for was a reliable one piece 8 ft straight edge
that
> would allow one to make smooth cuts with a skil saw or router. But again,
> the insights and comments are appreciated, I'm here to learn like everyone
> else.
>
> "Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > John,
> >
> > I think you expected the wrong thing from this straight edge. Its
> designed
> > to be clamped into place for guiding a router, handheld saw, etc. The
idea
> > is that if you need some fine adjustment, you'll take a straight edge
> > standard and lay it along the joint of the Johnson guide, then clamp it
> > down. Using any kind of hand held guide for hand held tools puts you in
> the
> > ball park of "good enough" for cutting sheet stock in construction
> carpentry
> > or cutting it down to size for later use with more precise tools.
> >
> > Perhaps what you are looking for would be more along the lines of the
> guide
> > described here
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1104
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > "John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace
<grin>.
> I
> > > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw,
I
> > > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
> > >
> > > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two
4
> ft
> > > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
> the
> > > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never
be
> > > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
> put
> > > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true"
it
> > up,
> > > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> > > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
> > >
> > > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
> straight
> > > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
> > >
> > > All insights appreciated!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Bingo Bob, that's about what I had in mind. It's nice to know you can get a
one piece 8-footer for about $99 (as opposed to spending $300 - 500 for a
precision straight edge from Starret, etc).
Thanks again.
"Bob Schmall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:tDZdb.68$%[email protected]...
> John:
> Try this one. I have the 50" unit and use it quite a bit.
>
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index%3Dtools%26field-keywords%3DGriset%26url%3Dindex%3Dtools%26store-name%3Dhi/103-5909599-6835838
> If the wrap gets in your way, go to Amazon.com, then tools and hardware,
> then search on Griset.
>
> Bob Schmall
>
> "John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>.
I
> > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
> >
> > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4
ft
> > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
the
> > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
put
> > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
> up,
> > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
> >
> > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
straight
> > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
> >
> > All insights appreciated!
> >
> >
>
>
John,
I bought the same saw guide at the BORG and had the same problem you
did with the bowing in the middle. I liked the idea of the sawboard,
so I combined the 2.
I took a nice wide 8'+ piece of MDF (3/4" stock) and screwed the
Johnson guide to it. It's straight now and won't be going anywhere.
If I'm cutting a lot of pieces for a shelf or something, instead of
using my ruler or combo square to set up the saw guide, I cut 3 scrap
pieces of wood to the appropriate length. Clamp them to the board you
want to cut (bottom, middle and top), butt the sawguide against these
pieces, clamp and cut.
Perfect results everytime.
Chuck
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
> recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
> So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
> sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
> 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
> the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it up,
> but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
Appreciate the comments Bob, but no, I wasn't expecting too much from the
Johnson guide. My big beef was that it was two pieces in order to rip a 8ft
cut. And if you saw the way the two aluminum pieces butted up end-to-end you
would laugh at how badly they were machined. (I'm slowly learning that
everything at HD and Lowes is good enough for a homeowner that doesn't know
any better.) If I needed to carry around a "straight-edge-standard" just to
"straighten-out" my straight edge every time I needed it, then it kinda
defeats the purpose of having a "straight edge"...lol!
Nope, all I was looking for was a reliable one piece 8 ft straight edge that
would allow one to make smooth cuts with a skil saw or router. But again,
the insights and comments are appreciated, I'm here to learn like everyone
else.
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> John,
>
> I think you expected the wrong thing from this straight edge. Its
designed
> to be clamped into place for guiding a router, handheld saw, etc. The idea
> is that if you need some fine adjustment, you'll take a straight edge
> standard and lay it along the joint of the Johnson guide, then clamp it
> down. Using any kind of hand held guide for hand held tools puts you in
the
> ball park of "good enough" for cutting sheet stock in construction
carpentry
> or cutting it down to size for later use with more precise tools.
>
> Perhaps what you are looking for would be more along the lines of the
guide
> described here https://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1104
>
> Bob
>
>
> "John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>.
I
> > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
> >
> > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4
ft
> > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
the
> > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
put
> > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
> up,
> > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
> >
> > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
straight
> > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
> >
> > All insights appreciated!
> >
> >
>
>
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
>recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
>would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
>So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
>sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
>8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
>sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
>the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it up,
>but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
>guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
>So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
>edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
>All insights appreciated!
>
A couple of good responses to this already, but I will give and answer
that sounds smart-assed, but is really serious: How straight, and how
much are you willing to pay?
Straight-edges for 8-ft lengths can vary from an mdf shelf from the
BORG to a machinists straightedge, with tolerance of .0005"per foot,
for about $500, and I'm sure you can go up from there.
I seldom need anything straighter than the edge of a sheet of ply or
mdf shelf in an 8' length. And I don't consider it an heirloom tool
for future generations! <g>
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
Another great tip!
One thing this conference has taught me quickly - be bold with your
imagination, drills, saws, and hand tools - build it, modify it, or tear it
to pieces to get what you really need.
Bob
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one.
Your
> > comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I
think
> > its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just right
for
> > clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for your
saw
> > or router.
> > Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious in
> > looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make sure
the
> > two pieces stay together during the job.
> >
> I've got a similar guide, although I don't know the brand name. Even
> with the hold down screws, there's some give in the middle when clamped
> at both ends.
>
> Since it's often impossible to clamp in the middle, I drilled a small
> hole sized for a finishing nail. I don't have to drive the nail in very
> far to stabilize the middle, and the resulting hole is next to invisible
> for the kinds of projects I'd be using the guide for.
>
> --
> Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Great article Joe, very insightful (and now I know what "lapping" is). The
problem I see (for me) using this method is that I only have
access/capability of using hardwood for the SEs... I'm sure over time the
wood-made SEs will wear and the edges no longer straight. I would prefer
getting something off the shelf for now to get my work back on schedule. But
great article nonetheless, thanks!
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
> http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
> Joe
> who fully intends to do this, some day
>
> John Doe wrote:
>
> > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>.
I
> > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
> >
> > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4
ft
> > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
the
> > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
put
> > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
up,
> > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
> >
> > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
straight
> > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
> >
> > All insights appreciated!
> >
> >
>
WoodChuck34 wrote:
> John,
>
> I bought the same saw guide at the BORG and had the same problem you
> did with the bowing in the middle. I liked the idea of the sawboard,
> so I combined the 2.
>
> I took a nice wide 8'+ piece of MDF (3/4" stock) and screwed the
> Johnson guide to it. It's straight now and won't be going anywhere.
>
> If I'm cutting a lot of pieces for a shelf or something, instead of
> using my ruler or combo square to set up the saw guide, I cut 3 scrap
> pieces of wood to the appropriate length. Clamp them to the board you
> want to cut (bottom, middle and top), butt the sawguide against these
> pieces, clamp and cut.
>
> Perfect results everytime.
>
> Chuck
Chuck, for many cuts it worthwhile to make a saw board wider
than the shelf or piece you are cutting with a full length
cleat on the bottom side. Hook the cleat over the end of the
panel, clamp the sawboard in place and cut.
saw space =========
========================================================
width of cut piece ======
I've cut over 50 pieces with the 17.25 inch one I made out
of particle board and it's still going strong.
Here's the original idea, one of the best woodworking ideas
I've found on the web
http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
Add a cleat to the bottom and it's good enough to use as a
production cutting tool. No measuring and only one thing to
clamp to your sheet goods.
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alexy wrote:
Sawboard I
> >Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
> >straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye
> >out for one as well.
> >
> >todd
> >
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?T6E324E06
> will point you to some sources.
>
> But these seem to be gross overkill for most woodworking use. I like
> the "sawboard" someone else posted. Seems that it could be made for
> the router as well.
>
I'm a sawboard fan
http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
but I do something different for guiding a router.
This is what I do for cutting 3/4 inch dados, change the 3/4
to whatever size you prefer for a different sized bit.
Cut two pieces of straight 49 inch long stock into guides
(3/4 MDF or whatever floats your boat). The width of one is
from the edge of a my round router base to the far side of
the 3/4 bit. The other is from the edge of the router base
to the near side of the 3/4 bit.
Mark one edge of the dado on the piece of sheet goods to be
dadoed, then use the appropriate near or far side guide to
locate your straight edge and clamp the straight edge in
place. Then run your router along the straight edge to make
your router cut.
You could get by with just a the far side guide most of the
time, but having both gives you more options in how you make
you cuts.
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I use a metal wall-stud, when I need a long straight-edge.
In article <[email protected]>,
John Doe <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>Great article Joe, very insightful (and now I know what "lapping" is). The
>problem I see (for me) using this method is that I only have
>access/capability of using hardwood for the SEs... I'm sure over time the
>wood-made SEs will wear and the edges no longer straight. I would prefer
>getting something off the shelf for now to get my work back on schedule. But
>great article nonetheless, thanks!
>
>"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
>> http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
>> Joe
>> who fully intends to do this, some day
>>
>> John Doe wrote:
>>
>> > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>.
>I
>> > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
>> > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>> >
>> > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4
>ft
>> > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
>the
>> > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
>> > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
>put
>> > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
>up,
>> > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
>> > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>> >
>> > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
>straight
>> > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>> >
>> > All insights appreciated!
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>> John Doe wrote:
>>>
>>> > I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>.
>>I
>>> > recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
>>> > would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>>> >
>>> > So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4
>>ft
>>> > sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make
>>the
>>> > 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
>>> > sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you
>>put
>>> > the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
>>up,
>>> > but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
>>> > guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>>> >
>>> > So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable
>>straight
>>> > edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>>> >
>>> > All insights appreciated!
Make a sawboard.Mind the text wrapping.
http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
Well, I guess you could pop a chalk line and clamp it to that.
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In article <[email protected]>,
> > [email protected] says...
> > > Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one.
> Your
> > > comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I
> think
> > > its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just
right
> for
> > > clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for
your
> saw
> > > or router.
> > > Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious
in
> > > looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make
sure
> the
> > > two pieces stay together during the job.
> > >
> > I've got a similar guide, although I don't know the brand name. Even
> > with the hold down screws, there's some give in the middle when clamped
> > at both ends.
>
> Exactly my point Larry. Which meant that a truly straight edge was never
> possible on a consistent basis. And sometimes the available wood in the
> field didn't have a factory edge since it was left over from something
else,
> so there isn't a "reference edge" to correct the guide to.
>
>
"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
> http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
> Joe
> who fully intends to do this, some day
Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye
out for one as well.
todd
If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
Joe
who fully intends to do this, some day
John Doe wrote:
> I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
> recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
> So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
> sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
> 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
> the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it up,
> but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
>
>
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
> recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
> So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
> sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
> 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
> the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
up,
> but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
>
>
This all depends upon how accurate you need to be. Might I suggest that wood
does not require a really accurate straight edge. If that is so, a straight
piece of bright steel bar may do or a piece of extruded aluminium of an
appropriate section. The larger the section, the more stable the straight
edge. Don't try to fabricate one though. Any welding will distort the beam.
Try a local metal stockist.
You may be able to find a used one. If you can find a company that uses a
calibrated straight edge, they most likely buy a new one every year as it's
cheaper to do that than have the old one retested.
Try http://www.moore-and-wright.co.uk/Catalogue%20Index/Page%2057.pdf
for details of the expensive ones.
John
Maybe a piece of square steel tubing. I've seen lenggths in the borgs but
haven't checked them for straightness, but if you try be sure to check a
few against each other, similar to making your own. If three of them match
each other along the length they should be accurate. Untill they get dripped.
Joe
todd wrote:
> "Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
>>http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
>>Joe
>>who fully intends to do this, some day
>
>
> Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
> straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye
> out for one as well.
>
> todd
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one. Your
> comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I think
> its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just right for
> clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for your saw
> or router.
> Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious in
> looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make sure the
> two pieces stay together during the job.
>
I've got a similar guide, although I don't know the brand name. Even
with the hold down screws, there's some give in the middle when clamped
at both ends.
Since it's often impossible to clamp in the middle, I drilled a small
hole sized for a finishing nail. I don't have to drive the nail in very
far to stabilize the middle, and the resulting hole is next to invisible
for the kinds of projects I'd be using the guide for.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
I have been a major fan of the original Tru Grip line of straight edge
clamps. As a beginning woodworker 13 years ago, these made the difference
between my making decent furniture projects and firewood right from the
beginning. I use their 8 footer to rip sheets of plywood after having made a
set of masonite set up "block"s which mark the exact distance from my cut
line to the clamp with my circular saw and preferred blade. You use one at
each end of the sheet or line to accurately place the clamp dead on every
time.
The smaller versions of the clamps including the back-to-back clamps have
saved the day time and time again for routing, clamping, squaring, and
sawing. They are worth every penny. And PLEASE don't buy the cheap
imitations that you see out there. They do not have enough clamping pressure
and are sloppy. They simply don't work. Be sure you force the clamp lever on
the Tru Grips all the way to the second "click" for maximum holding power.
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
"Rico" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> alexy wrote:
> Sawboard I
> > >Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
> > >straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my
eye
> > >out for one as well.
> > >
> > >todd
> > >
> > http://makeashorterlink.com/?T6E324E06
> > will point you to some sources.
> >
> > But these seem to be gross overkill for most woodworking use. I like
> > the "sawboard" someone else posted. Seems that it could be made for
> > the router as well.
> >
>
> I'm a sawboard fan
> http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm
>
> but I do something different for guiding a router.
>
>
> This is what I do for cutting 3/4 inch dados, change the 3/4
> to whatever size you prefer for a different sized bit.
>
> Cut two pieces of straight 49 inch long stock into guides
> (3/4 MDF or whatever floats your boat). The width of one is
> from the edge of a my round router base to the far side of
> the 3/4 bit. The other is from the edge of the router base
> to the near side of the 3/4 bit.
>
> Mark one edge of the dado on the piece of sheet goods to be
> dadoed, then use the appropriate near or far side guide to
> locate your straight edge and clamp the straight edge in
> place. Then run your router along the straight edge to make
> your router cut.
>
> You could get by with just a the far side guide most of the
> time, but having both gives you more options in how you make
> you cuts.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
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"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> . It's nice to know you can get a
> one piece 8-footer for about $99 (as opposed to spending $300 - 500 for a
> precision straight edge from Starret, etc).
Or ten bucks for a piece of angle iron.
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joe Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> If you start with reasonable straight stock this shouldn't take too long
>> http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/straight_edge/straight_edge.html
>> Joe
>> who fully intends to do this, some day
>
>Now let's imagine that I don't have 50 hours to invest in making my own
>straight edges. Any other suggestions? I'm not the OP, but I have my eye
>out for one as well.
>
>todd
>
http://makeashorterlink.com/?T6E324E06
will point you to some sources.
But these seem to be gross overkill for most woodworking use. I like
the "sawboard" someone else posted. Seems that it could be made for
the router as well.
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
John:
Try this one. I have the 50" unit and use it quite a bit.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-url/index%3Dtools%26field-keywords%3DGriset%26url%3Dindex%3Dtools%26store-name%3Dhi/103-5909599-6835838
If the wrap gets in your way, go to Amazon.com, then tools and hardware,
then search on Griset.
Bob Schmall
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
> recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
> So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
> sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
> 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
> the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
up,
> but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
>
>
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
> > Oh, I know more about the Johnson, than you might realize. I own one.
Your
> > comments made me think about how I have used it in the past and why I
think
> > its a useful guide. The keyword here is "guide". Its shaped just right
for
> > clamping down with small C-clamps and using to provide a guide for your
saw
> > or router.
> > Judging by your comments, I assume you did buy one. Its not obvious in
> > looking at one on the shelf that there are hold down screws to make sure
the
> > two pieces stay together during the job.
> >
> I've got a similar guide, although I don't know the brand name. Even
> with the hold down screws, there's some give in the middle when clamped
> at both ends.
Exactly my point Larry. Which meant that a truly straight edge was never
possible on a consistent basis. And sometimes the available wood in the
field didn't have a factory edge since it was left over from something else,
so there isn't a "reference edge" to correct the guide to.
Years ago I had a metal shop make some out of 10 gauge stainless. They are
about 4 inches wide with a half inch bent up on one edge in a L shape. I
run the tools along the bent up edge. It also works great for picking them
up. I bought a 2, 4, 6 and 8 footer. They have had a lot of use and work
great. If I did it again I would skip the 6 footer.
John,
I think you expected the wrong thing from this straight edge. Its designed
to be clamped into place for guiding a router, handheld saw, etc. The idea
is that if you need some fine adjustment, you'll take a straight edge
standard and lay it along the joint of the Johnson guide, then clamp it
down. Using any kind of hand held guide for hand held tools puts you in the
ball park of "good enough" for cutting sheet stock in construction carpentry
or cutting it down to size for later use with more precise tools.
Perhaps what you are looking for would be more along the lines of the guide
described here https://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1104
Bob
"John Doe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm new to woodworking, so please bear with my obvious ignornace <grin>. I
> recently needed a straight edge to rip stock away from the table saw, I
> would also like to use it as a guide for hand router, etc.
>
> So I go to Lowes to buy a Johnson 8ft straight edge for $20. It's two 4 ft
> sections that uses a joining plate slipped into the two pieces to make the
> 8ft length. All I can say is WHAT A PIECE OF GARBAGE. You could never be
> sure it was straight because of all the play there was every time you put
> the two sections together. I tried using my four foot level to "true" it
up,
> but that seemed like the blind leading the blind since there was no
> guarantee the level was straight all the way its length.
>
> So, my question is where (and how much $$)can one get a reliable straight
> edge from 4 to 8ft in length?
>
> All insights appreciated!
>
>