Dear All,
I am trying to make a rabbet in the back of a cherry frame and I am getting
some pretty awful tearout. I am not at my finished depth yet, and the frame
still might be salvageable.
http://members.rogers.com/dfeisan/images/tearout.jpg
I am thinking about climb cutting. How can I do this without loosing a
finger or crapping my pants?
The router table is the only tool I have ever been injured on and it really
does scare me.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
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In article <[email protected]>, Garry Collins
<[email protected]> wrote:
> There was a similar situation on an episode of the Router Workshop. He
> routered into the wood at set distances and then out. It was a single cut
> without the wood moving along the router but rather the wood moving into
> the wood as set distances. Then he routered along the wood in the same
> fashion as you have done. The single cuts were connected by the long cut
Garry,
I don't get to see the RW every week, and missed this one, but I
honestly don't understand your description.
Would you mind expanding on your description? Aplologies for my
inability to understand, but maybe the visual helped?
Thanks,
djb
--
There are no socks in my email address.
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati"
In article <[email protected]>, Garry Collins
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Rather than try to do the length of the wood
> as you would expect, he simply took a few cuts at intervals where he
> pushed the timber into the cutter and then withdrew it. It was simply an
> in and out motion where the timber moved into the cutter and then out,
> but the cutter did not move along the timber. After he did this, there
> were a number of cuts into the timber along the length of the timber.
> Then when he routed the timber along the grain he was connecting the
> indentations that had been made by the earlier cuts into the timber.
I understand perfectly now. Thanks a lot for taking the time!
djb
--
There are no socks in my email address.
"Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati"
Routers with a D-handle, together with a strong wrist, are good for this
type of cutting.
With a tight grip on the router, to avoid it moving too fast towards you,
take the wood off in multiple passes (about 1/16" per pass until you gain
confidence in your ability), ending with one final pass in the correct
direction to remove the final 1/32" to 1/16" of material.
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> I would use the router freehand in preference to the router table.
>
> First, make a knife cut along the innermost edge of the rabbet, so
> that the wood fibers are severed cleanly.
Agree.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Hi,
There was a similar situation on an episode of the Router Workshop. He
routered into the wood at set distances and then out. It was a single cut
without the wood moving along the router but rather the wood moving into
the wood as set distances. Then he routered along the wood in the same
fashion as you have done. The single cuts were connected by the long cut.
Hope this was helpful.
Garry
>"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:Jaykb.198435$ko%[email protected]:
> Dear All,
>
> I am trying to make a rabbet in the back of a cherry frame and I am
> getting some pretty awful tearout. I am not at my finished depth yet,
> and the frame still might be salvageable.
>
> http://members.rogers.com/dfeisan/images/tearout.jpg
>
> I am thinking about climb cutting. How can I do this without loosing a
> finger or crapping my pants?
>
> The router table is the only tool I have ever been injured on and it
> really does scare me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
> Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
> rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>
>
>
>
--
Garry Collins
Remove the spamno from my eamill address.
Dave,
In the episode I saw he want to route the side of a picture frame with an
ogee shape. It was an inside route. The grain was a problem because he
was going against the grain. Rather than try to do the length of the wood
as you would expect, he simply took a few cuts at intervals where he
pushed the timber into the cutter and then withdrew it. It was simply an
in and out motion where the timber moved into the cutter and then out,
but the cutter did not move along the timber. After he did this, there
were a number of cuts into the timber along the length of the timber.
Then when he routed the timber along the grain he was connecting the
indentations that had been made by the earlier cuts into the timber.
Take a piece of wood and mark centers at 2 inches along the side of the
timber. Set a decorative bit into the router and push the timber into the
router at the various marks and then pull it out. There are now cuts at 2
inches along the wood. Now route the timber and any damage to timber can
only split to the next indentation made by the impression. Without the
earlier cuts a split in the timber could progress along the timber and
get deeper as it progressed.
Hope this is clear.
Garry
Dave Balderstone <[email protected]> wrote in
news:191020031732060186%[email protected]:
> In article <[email protected]>, Garry Collins
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> There was a similar situation on an episode of the Router Workshop.
>> He routered into the wood at set distances and then out. It was a
>> single cut without the wood moving along the router but rather the
>> wood moving into the wood as set distances. Then he routered along
>> the wood in the same fashion as you have done. The single cuts were
>> connected by the long cut
>
> Garry,
>
> I don't get to see the RW every week, and missed this one, but I
> honestly don't understand your description.
>
> Would you mind expanding on your description? Aplologies for my
> inability to understand, but maybe the visual helped?
>
> Thanks,
>
> djb
>
--
Garry Collins
Remove the spamno from my eamill address.
On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 15:35:05 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Dear All,
>
>I am trying to make a rabbet in the back of a cherry frame and I am getting
>some pretty awful tearout. I am not at my finished depth yet, and the frame
>still might be salvageable.
>
>http://members.rogers.com/dfeisan/images/tearout.jpg
>
>I am thinking about climb cutting. How can I do this without loosing a
>finger or crapping my pants?
>
>The router table is the only tool I have ever been injured on and it really
>does scare me.
David:
I would use the router freehand in preference to the router table.
First, make a knife cut along the innermost edge of the rabbet, so
that the wood fibers are severed cleanly.
Next, creep up on your final depth a little bit at a time.
Regards, Tom
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
On Sun, 19 Oct 2003 15:35:05 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
<[email protected]> scribbled
>Dear All,
>
>I am trying to make a rabbet in the back of a cherry frame and I am getting
>some pretty awful tearout. I am not at my finished depth yet, and the frame
>still might be salvageable.
>
>http://members.rogers.com/dfeisan/images/tearout.jpg
>
>I am thinking about climb cutting. How can I do this without loosing a
>finger or crapping my pants?
It's not as bad as you think. I do it all the time, and it doesn't
really "pull" all that much. You might think of using a vertical
featherboard attached to a fence, or one of the push handles you use
with your aircraft carrier.
Luigi
Replace "no" with "yk" twice
in reply address for real email address
When I run across that tendency I make the first cut shallow and then
follow up with several cuts until the desired depth is reached.
"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:Jaykb.198435$ko%[email protected]...
> Dear All,
>
> I am trying to make a rabbet in the back of a cherry frame and I am
getting
> some pretty awful tearout. I am not at my finished depth yet, and the
frame
> still might be salvageable.
>
> http://members.rogers.com/dfeisan/images/tearout.jpg
>
> I am thinking about climb cutting. How can I do this without loosing a
> finger or crapping my pants?
>
> The router table is the only tool I have ever been injured on and it
really
> does scare me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
> Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
> rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>
>
>