Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.
But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
Thanks.
Michael Campbell wrote:
> David <[email protected]> writes:
>
>
>>gregj wrote:
>>
>>
>>>What do you think of Marples brand chisels?
>>>
>>
>>they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
>>chisels are much better, believe it or not.
>
>
> Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
> caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
> and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
> necessarily any better edge).
>
> I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
> [feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.
>
> --
> Michael Campbell
when did you purchase them?
I have a set of the marples blue handled chisels. I think they are
alright, though they come so far from flat that I wouldn't buy them
again. Even after a couple dozen times sharpening them I still don't
have a mirror lap on the back, I mean right next to the bevel is good,
but further up...
If I had to do it again, I would buy a cheapo set for crappy projects,
and slowly purchase really nice ones kinda as needed. In fact I might
start doing that, and make the Marples my crappy set.
Andrew
I have Marple chisels also. The face of the 1 1/2 " had a low spot so
deep that it took over 3 hours on a diamond stone to take out. But on
the other hand that was 3 hours spent learning how to sharpen on
relatively cheap chisels. In retrospect it was time well spent. Just
plan on purchasing/learning a good sharpening system.
Don
gregj wrote:
> Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
> brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
> building a barn.
>
> But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
> planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
> into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
> spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
>
> Thanks.
I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
pretty easy.
Marples are, OK.
Not great. But OK.
Bill
AAvK wrote:
> I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
> own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
> slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
> take niks in the cutting edge.
>
> I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
> eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
> a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
> quality steel.
>
> The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
> a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
> vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
> plastic handles, super cheap).
>
> I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
> better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
> not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
> merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.
>
> Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
> flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.
>
> Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
> made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.
>
> --
> Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Australopithecus scobis wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:35:08 -0700, fredfighter wrote:
>
> > OLD buck brothers, from before the
> > name was sold,
>
> When _did_ BB go downhill? After 1972 or after 1913/1915? It'll be easier
> to find some chisels in reasonably good shape if the later year is the
> time you're referring to.
Unfortunatley I don't know. The galoots over on the OldTools
list are always gloating about finding Stanley everlast and Buck
Brothers. Hence my comment about reputation. Certainly the new
Bucks are nothing to brag about.
My guess is, a Buck that's old enough to have it's wooden handle
missing is a good bet.
--
FF
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> AAvK wrote:
>
> > ...
> >
> > At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
> > it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
> > one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the frog,
> > which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat) area
> > about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just looking at it.
> > But obviously it seats on the reciever and all surfaces are flat....
> >
> > ...
>
> Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
> frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me to
> look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.
>
> The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
> proud; it should be flush with the bed.
>
Possibly the frog design is the second of the
four designs described here:
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num3
Contrary to what Mr Leach says, that frog design has a
bad reputation. It is flexible enough that the cutter
can take a nose-dive when you hit tough spot in the wood.
> As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
> how tight do you have the lever screw?
My guess would be that the face of
the frog on which the cutter rests is
not flat, or the problem with the
lever cap screw causes it to bear
down harder on one side of the cap
iron.
I ALWAYS have that problem with wedged
planes.
--
FF
On 28 Jul 2005 12:31:13 -0700, "gregj" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
>brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
>building a barn.
I've got a set of Stanleys, and they serve me well- just keep a stone
handy for occasional touch-ups. If you get an initial hollow grind
going, a quick honing only takes a minute or so. They take a good
keen edge- something that is not always true of the HSS or other
specialty cutting tools. Those pricey ones are designed to keep the
edge you give them, but not necessarily to get the sharpest edge
possible. YMMV.
>But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
>planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
>into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
>spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
>
>Thanks.
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> Patrick is still up to the same old tricks. I'm still on his
> mailing list, as even though I'm not buying a lot planes these days, I
> love to see the sorts of things he uncovers; it's a history lesson in
> its own right.
>
> I bought my first oldtool from him back about 8 years ago. It was a
> type 14 #4. I hardly use it anymore (I have too many smoothers that
> work better than it does), but I'll never forget opening that box and
> disassembling the plane while pondering its history.
>
> It was all downhill from there ... on rollerskates ... with a
> jetpack on my back. :-)
>
> > nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
> > his neighborhood...
>
> Hmmm ... a quick mental count puts me at about 3 dozen as well. and
> then there are the spokeshaves ... and saws ... and chisels ... and ...
>
> Chuck Vance (wheeeeeeeee!!!)
PL is doing fine last I saw him, back in Feb/March, whenever our Patina
auction was. MJD was there as well. Send him your addy to get back on
the list, although I suspect he's still tool hunting as Chuck pointed
out. Ass for 3 dozen planes, I'm in triple digits, with lots of
spokeshaves. Google for a pic of mine entitled shelf3. I've got at
least 3 dozen woodies. Jetpack? Yeehaw!
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> Oooops, I forgot to include the woodies. :-) But I'm not a big
> collector of them or anything. Probably don't have more than 12-15. :-}
>
> To be totally honest, I've been a bit of a slacker when it comes to
> buying tools. I took up flyfishing again a couple of years back, so now
> I've got another hobby that requires large amounts of gear. (Plus, if
> you ff, you *have* to tie your own flies, so that requires a whole
> different set of stuff.)
>
> I can't seem to find your pic. Got a url for me?
All is forgiven. My Father FFs also. Different slopes for different
folks. TMdl I don't keep a website going, quit after I took down my
old BBS. I'll scrounge it up and post it over on ABPW. It won't be
current, the shelf is sagging now. %-)
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> I like it. :-) I've found that ff'ing is a particularly insidious
> slope. Not only is there all the gear and tying stuff to buy, but the
> places I want to fish the most require travel. In the last few years
> it's been the Madison River and Yellowstone Park in Moontana/Wyoming,
> the Crowsnest River in Canada and small streams in the western North
> Carolina mountains.
> It's a tough job, but someone's got to do it.
> Let me know when it's up. I don't get the binaries groups, but can
> always check it out on Usenet Replayer.
It's up go take a look. He lives in Seattle, so he goes after salmon.
kinda makes it worthwhile after dealing with trout.
Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> Jeezus ... you've got it bad, man. If I didn't know better, I'd say
> you were a collector. ;-)
But I'm feeling MUCH better now. %-)
> I'v never had the honor of fishing for salmon. But I can't imagine
> it's any more fun than fishing for wild trout in the mountains of North
> Carolina. That's where I went in early July, and while I've caught
> bigger fish elsewhere, I've never fished in such pretty surroundings:
> http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bradley01.jpg
> http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/cherohala02.jpg
> http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/little01.jpg
> http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/snowbirdfalls01.jpg
> http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/brown.jpg
> Chuck Vance (yes, that was a gloat)
Very pretty. The UP is pretty too. First time I took my ex fishing she
caught a 26 3/4" large mouth. Had to let it go though, out of season.
That may have contributed to my divorce. 5-( Out in wolf Lake, they
had HUGE trout, immense, bass sized. Hand fishing for tuna off a rubber
ducky out in Guam was fun to. BIG fish. Can you say sashimi?
Dave in Fairfax
--
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use: daveldr at att dot net
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Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> They say the first step to recovery is realizing you have a problem.
> ;-)
> That's a nice fish. Is there any truth to the rumor that they grow
> that big because they feed on the Yooper dragonfl ... er ... mosquitoes?
> :-)
> I'm guessing you weren't just vacationing in Guam, eh?
Strangely enough I was in the employ of our Navy. %-) Got to see the
world and everything. The only problem with the bass catching the
skeetrs is sometimes the fish goes up and doesn't come back down. It is
a pleasurable addiction, and less costly than some. Least as long as I
remain a bottom feeder. Unless I hit the lotto big, I don't see that as
changing anytime soon. %-(
Dave in Fairfax
--
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use: daveldr at att dot net
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Capital Area Woodturners
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PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> At least you live in an area where there's a chance to bottom-feed.
> Down hyar in oletoolhail they seem to think that the older and rustier
> a tool is, the more it's worth ... as a decoration for your "kuntry
> kitchen". :-|
I go up to NY and through PA fairly frequently. If you have something
in mind, I'll keep an eye open. Send me a cell or other phone number
and a price range and if I see it, I'll give you a call and tell you
what I'm looking at. You decide whether you want it or not. Better
send the info OFF-line. %-)
Dave in Fairfax
--
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Capital Area Woodturners
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PATINA
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Conan The Librarian wrote:
> No kidding. :-) Thanks for the offer. I'll take you up on it the
> next time I'm in the market. For now though, before adding to my ... er
> ... "arsenal", I need to consider selling some of the stuff I've got
> that's sitting unused.
I'll be going up to Philly end of August-beginning of September. I was
planning on making a 2 1/2 hr trip into a 6 or 7 hour trip, by looking
for tools, let me know. Not collecting them, mind you, just shopping
for things to use. %-)
Dve in Fairfax
--
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PATINA
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Yep Dave, vintage is definately the answer with Marples. My best chisels
came from a junk shop, about $2 each. Gave them a new handle and, after
cleaning off the rust, I could clearly make out the trade mark (new chisels
don't have a maker's mark). They hold a fantastic edge and I would never
swap them for a new set.
Cheers
Bill D
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
>> blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
>> edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
>> pretty easy.
>>
>> Marples are, OK.
>>
>> Not great. But OK.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> AAvK wrote:
>>
>>>I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
>>>own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
>>>slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
>>>take niks in the cutting edge.
>>>
>>>I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
>>>eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
>>>a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
>>>quality steel.
>>>
>>>The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>>>a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
>>>chrome
>>>vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
>>>plastic handles, super cheap).
>>>
>>>I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that
>>>are a
>>>better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
>>>not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
>>>merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the
>>>Sandvik.
>>>
>>>Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
>>>flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.
>>>
>>>Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
>>>made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.
>>>
>>>--
>>>Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
>>>cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
>>>not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>>
>>
> What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the level
> of quality.
>
> Dave
Patriarch wrote:
> Conan The Librarian <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>AAvK wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
>>>I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.
>>>
>>>The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
>>>but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
>>>underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
>>>tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
>>>the distance of that screw's under-bevel.
>>>
>>>I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
>>>that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
>>>bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
>>>So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
>>>to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
>>>distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
>>>the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...
>>>
>>>At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
>>>it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
>>>one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the
>>>frog, which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat)
>>>area about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just
>>>looking at it. But obviously it seats on the reciever and all
>>>surfaces are flat....
>>>
>>>I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
>>>as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the
>>>blade is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the
>>>new Hock HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great
>>>many bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then
>>>there was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.
>>
>> Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
>>frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me
>>to look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.
>>
>> The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
>>proud; it should be flush with the bed.
>>
>> As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
>>how tight do you have the lever screw?
>>
>> So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)
>>
>>
>>>There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four
>>>paragraphs of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper
>>>and the...
>>>
>>>LV-V-LABP.
>>
>> I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)
>>
>>
>> Chuck Vance
>>
>
>
> Not really wanting to step on this conversation, but...
>
> I have a #6, of early '60's vintage, which I bought from a tool dealer
> who used to frequent these parts years ago, and used to put out a
> monthly list to various hand plane addicts. An unused old plane,
> without hassle, at a fair price, in great shape, from someone who
> clearly knew what he was selling, and planned on selling more of them as
> the years went on.
>
> Yes, I paid more than eBay prices for this tool. But I didn't have to
> 'win' anything, play sniping games, worry about the seller, or even do
> all that much homework. The tool was sent on approval, and had I not
> found it to be what I needed, I was responsible to send it back.
> Otherwise, a personal check was sufficient. There is a lot to be said
> for that business model, and someone who is willing to make a go of
> that.
>
> I wonder what Patrick is up to these days? I've seen no email list in
> some time. Maybe he still has an old address of mine.
>
> Patriarch,
> nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
> his neighborhood...
From the July list:
The August list may be some days late as Ill be tool prowling
on the day the list is supposed to be sent.
Joe
in that neighborhood, too. But I'd have to look carefully to see how close.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> gregj wrote:
>
>> Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
>> that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.
>>
> I hear you. It's a pretty common refrain on line that if one can find
> an older Stanley, they've got themselves a workable plane.
Goodie, goodie; I found a Stanley No. 4 some months back in the
garage of my wife's elderly cousin who had passed away. I have (this
very day) begun trying to tune it up using my new DMT DuoSharp.
The Craftsman "Jack Plane" I bought 30 years ago (when I knew even
less than I now know), and used practically nil, is a virtual copy of
it. I 'spose I should try to tune that one, too.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston
Prometheus wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>>The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>>a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
>>vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
>>plastic handles, super cheap).
>
>
> Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
> and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
> scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
> just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.
I cut my own from an old saw blade, many years ago. I was a pretty good
quality blade, plenty of flex etc but had seen a very hard life. Was
rusted, had bugger all teeth and was pretty worn. Anyhow, cut 4 cabinet
scrapers from it, gave to to the Old Man and still have 2. They are easy
to edge and retain the edge for quite a while.
Regards
John
> Goodie, goodie; I found a Stanley No. 4 some months back in the
> garage of my wife's elderly cousin who had passed away. I have (this very day) begun trying to tune it up using my new DMT
> DuoSharp.
> The Craftsman "Jack Plane" I bought 30 years ago (when I knew even less than I now know), and used practically nil, is a
> virtual copy of it. I 'spose I should try to tune that one, too.
>
> --
> "New Wave" Dave In Houston
>
Definitely a good find, congrats, but I wouldn't waste that dmt stone on it.
You should get to a junk shop and buy a rectangle or shelf of thick glass
and get some Norton AO papers of 100 and 220 grit and a can of 3m super
77. This also leads to the scary sharp method.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:IijGe.69506$ro.59875@fed1read02...
> Definitely a good find, congrats, but I wouldn't waste that dmt stone
> on it.
> You should get to a junk shop and buy a rectangle or shelf of thick
> glass
> and get some Norton AO papers of 100 and 220 grit and a can of 3m
> super
> 77. This also leads to the scary sharp method.
Can do that as well; I already gots the glass and paper.
Thanks for the $.02.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston
Here's my experiences on the chisel thang:
Marples Blue-handle: I bought a set 1/4-1" around 2002, before they got
bought by Erwin. They're pretty good. They hold an edge reasonably
well, and sharpen easily. Most flattened pretty quick, though the 3/4"
took longer than the rest. The 1/8" is a bit flimsy though, and I've
had some problems with poor steel. I managed to break the tip off a
1/8" cutting a 3/8" mortise in cherry. I've also had some very jagged,
asymmetrical chips occur on some edges after hitting a hard knot.
Definitely a bad batch of steel.
Sorby: Octagonal handle, pattern makers, heavy duty mortise, etc.:
These are my favorites. They are pricey, but I've had great results
with them. They make one of the best 1/8" mortising chisels I've used.
Very well made and tough. They take longer to flatten and sharpen
than the Marples, but the results are worth it. Definitely take some
600 grit sandpaper to any edges that your hand will contact. I've
gotten some unexpected cuts just from the sharp sides during paring
operations.
Japanese "Blue steel": It may be an Iroiyo or an Mistu... Don't
remember. FWW had a review and this was rated the top. Mine's a 5/8"
Great chisel, and very hard. Back is relieved for ease of flattening.
Works well, but needs a steeper bezel than I'm used to, due to the
hardness of the steel. Also, the relieved back limits the usefulness of
the tool the way I use them.
Crown: I'm not a big fan of these. I own one. A 7/8" std chisel just
to round out my selection. I'd rather see them put more money into the
steel than the rosewood handles and polished blades. The polishing
tends to round over the edges of the blade, including the back,
requiring a non-trivial amount of grinding to get to flat metal. The
steel is OK, but my Marples are better.
Two cherries: I have one backbent gouge. Not on my top 10 list.
Everything but the bezel of the gouge was highly polished and seemed to
round over the edges too much. Handle is made of laquered hornbeam,
very hard and slippery. Bezel was rough ground. This is OK since I
regrind all of the tools once I buy them, especially carving tools.
Pfiel: So far, the best carving tools reasonably available in the US.
Just don't buy them from Woodshaft. There are some Canadian dealers
that sell for MUCH less, including shipping and insurance. I haven't
tried their bench chisels. My only complaint is that they tend to "buff
the cutting edge into submission." They call it a microbevel, but it is
more of a pain than a help. Once it gets dull, then major sharpening
needs to take place. Also, I've noticed that the buffer seems to
weaken/overheat the steel at the edge and cause it to fail faster. Once
I sharpen past the microbevel, the edge holding is great and has a great
edge.
Old tools/flea market/ebay, etc.: There can be some great finds.
Older, wooden handled Marples are great. Old Buck Brothers ones are
great as well, but have become a collector's item. What a waste. Sorby
and Swan are others that can be found as well. Usually cheap.
As for usage, keep them sharp. As soon as you start to notice that they
don't cut as cleanly, take a few passes on a strop charged with
compound. My favorite is a product called "yellowstone." Woodcraft may
still carry it. Awesome stuff. It is quicker to strop for 10 seconds
every 1/2 hour than to spend time on a set of stones. If you do need to
go to stones / sandpaper, etc., try the finest stone first to see if
that will restore the edge. The further down in grit you go, the more
grits you need to proceed through to get back to the strop, and that
razor edge.
For sizes: 1", 1/4", 1/2", then expand according to need. The 1" is
extremely versatile. I know professional custom/repro furniture makers
that use a 1" for everything from paring tenons to carving ball and claw
feet. I use some very small (1/32") for cleaning up the corners in
stringing grooves, and I have a 1-1/2" that I use for cutting inlay and
banding. For larger cutting operations, I use a blade from a plane. It
works well for cutting parts for compass-rose inlays.
-- Blue Enamel
David wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
>> blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
>> edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
>> pretty easy.
>>
>> Marples are, OK.
>>
>> Not great. But OK.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> AAvK wrote:
>>
>>> I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
>>> own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
>>> slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
>>> take niks in the cutting edge.
>>>
>>> I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
>>> eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
>>> a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
>>> quality steel.
>>>
>>> The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>>> a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
>>> chrome
>>> vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
>>> plastic handles, super cheap).
>>>
>>> I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops)
>>> that are a
>>> better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some
>>> niks,
>>> not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
>>> merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the
>>> Sandvik.
>>>
>>> Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard
>>> work to
>>> flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.
>>>
>>> Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
>>> made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
>>> cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
>>> not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>>
>>
>>
> What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the
> level of quality.
>
> Dave
"gregj" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1122580168.682216.209690
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> What do you think of Marples brand chisels?
>
>
Think modern Stanley handplanes.
"gregj" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1122579073.315409.40120
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
> brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
> building a barn.
>
> But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
> planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
> into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
> spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
>
> Thanks.
>
Look for Stanley 720 or 750 chisels, and potentially turning your own
replacement handles.
Or get out the crowbar, and order a set of Lie Nielsen reproductions.
Patriarch
Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>>a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
>>chrome vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I
>>have (blue plastic handles, super cheap).
>
> Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
> and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
> scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
> just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.
>
Given that LN scrapers are like $7 each, I've sort of let the Sandviks
slide to the back of the pack...
Patriarch
Conan The Librarian <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> AAvK wrote:
>
>> Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
>> I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.
>>
>> The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
>> but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
>> underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
>> tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
>> the distance of that screw's under-bevel.
>>
>> I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
>> that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
>> bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
>> So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
>> to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
>> distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
>> the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...
>>
>> At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
>> it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
>> one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the
>> frog, which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat)
>> area about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just
>> looking at it. But obviously it seats on the reciever and all
>> surfaces are flat....
>>
>> I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
>> as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the
>> blade is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the
>> new Hock HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great
>> many bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then
>> there was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.
>
> Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
> frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me
> to look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.
>
> The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
> proud; it should be flush with the bed.
>
> As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
> how tight do you have the lever screw?
>
> So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)
>
>> There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four
>> paragraphs of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper
>> and the...
>>
>> LV-V-LABP.
>
> I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)
>
>
> Chuck Vance
>
Not really wanting to step on this conversation, but...
I have a #6, of early '60's vintage, which I bought from a tool dealer
who used to frequent these parts years ago, and used to put out a
monthly list to various hand plane addicts. An unused old plane,
without hassle, at a fair price, in great shape, from someone who
clearly knew what he was selling, and planned on selling more of them as
the years went on.
Yes, I paid more than eBay prices for this tool. But I didn't have to
'win' anything, play sniping games, worry about the seller, or even do
all that much homework. The tool was sent on approval, and had I not
found it to be what I needed, I was responsible to send it back.
Otherwise, a personal check was sufficient. There is a lot to be said
for that business model, and someone who is willing to make a go of
that.
I wonder what Patrick is up to these days? I've seen no email list in
some time. Maybe he still has an old address of mine.
Patriarch,
nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
his neighborhood...
> When _did_ BB go downhill? After 1972 or after 1913/1915? It'll be easier
> to find some chisels in reasonably good shape if the later year is the
> time you're referring to.
>
> --
You can buy new_old_stock Buck Bros. chisels that were made in the 60's from
Craftsman's studio, San Diego.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
Born and raised and live in North Carolina.
I live on the ocean and always made fun of the "buggy whip" crowd
fishing in the "ditch", but it really is beautiful on those little
trout streams.
I have friends that will drive for six hours to go
catch those tiny brown trout and they love it.
Conan The Librarian wrote:
> I'v never had the honor of fishing for salmon. But I can't imagine
> it's any more fun than fishing for wild trout in the mountains of North
> Carolina. That's where I went in early July, and while I've caught
> bigger fish elsewhere, I've never fished in such pretty surroundings:
AAvK wrote:
> Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
> I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.
>
> The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
> but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
> underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
> tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
> the distance of that screw's under-bevel.
>
> I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
> that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
> bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
> So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
> to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
> distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
> the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...
>
> At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
> it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
> one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the frog,
> which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat) area
> about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just looking at it.
> But obviously it seats on the reciever and all surfaces are flat....
>
> I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
> as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the blade
> is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the new Hock
> HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great many
> bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then there
> was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.
Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me to
look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.
The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
proud; it should be flush with the bed.
As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
how tight do you have the lever screw?
So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)
> There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four paragraphs
> of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper and the...
>
> LV-V-LABP.
I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)
Chuck Vance
Patriarch wrote:
> I have a #6, of early '60's vintage, which I bought from a tool dealer
> who used to frequent these parts years ago, and used to put out a
> monthly list to various hand plane addicts. An unused old plane,
> without hassle, at a fair price, in great shape, from someone who
> clearly knew what he was selling, and planned on selling more of them as
> the years went on.
>
> Yes, I paid more than eBay prices for this tool. But I didn't have to
> 'win' anything, play sniping games, worry about the seller, or even do
> all that much homework. The tool was sent on approval, and had I not
> found it to be what I needed, I was responsible to send it back.
> Otherwise, a personal check was sufficient. There is a lot to be said
> for that business model, and someone who is willing to make a go of
> that.
>
> I wonder what Patrick is up to these days? I've seen no email list in
> some time. Maybe he still has an old address of mine.
Patrick is still up to the same old tricks. I'm still on his
mailing list, as even though I'm not buying a lot planes these days, I
love to see the sorts of things he uncovers; it's a history lesson in
its own right.
I bought my first oldtool from him back about 8 years ago. It was a
type 14 #4. I hardly use it anymore (I have too many smoothers that
work better than it does), but I'll never forget opening that box and
disassembling the plane while pondering its history.
It was all downhill from there ... on rollerskates ... with a
jetpack on my back. :-)
> nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
> his neighborhood...
Hmmm ... a quick mental count puts me at about 3 dozen as well. and
then there are the spokeshaves ... and saws ... and chisels ... and ...
Chuck Vance (wheeeeeeeee!!!)
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> PL is doing fine last I saw him, back in Feb/March, whenever our Patina
> auction was. MJD was there as well. Send him your addy to get back on
> the list, although I suspect he's still tool hunting as Chuck pointed
> out. Ass for 3 dozen planes, I'm in triple digits, with lots of
> spokeshaves. Google for a pic of mine entitled shelf3. I've got at
> least 3 dozen woodies. Jetpack? Yeehaw!
Oooops, I forgot to include the woodies. :-) But I'm not a big
collector of them or anything. Probably don't have more than 12-15. :-}
To be totally honest, I've been a bit of a slacker when it comes to
buying tools. I took up flyfishing again a couple of years back, so now
I've got another hobby that requires large amounts of gear. (Plus, if
you ff, you *have* to tie your own flies, so that requires a whole
different set of stuff.)
I can't seem to find your pic. Got a url for me?
Chuck Vance
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> All is forgiven. My Father FFs also. Different slopes for different
> folks. TMdl
I like it. :-) I've found that ff'ing is a particularly insidious
slope. Not only is there all the gear and tying stuff to buy, but the
places I want to fish the most require travel. In the last few years
it's been the Madison River and Yellowstone Park in Moontana/Wyoming,
the Crowsnest River in Canada and small streams in the western North
Carolina mountains.
It's a tough job, but someone's got to do it.
> I don't keep a website going, quit after I took down my
> old BBS. I'll scrounge it up and post it over on ABPW. It won't be
> current, the shelf is sagging now. %-)
Let me know when it's up. I don't get the binaries groups, but can
always check it out on Usenet Replayer.
Chuck Vance
AAvK wrote:
>> Yep. Here's a pic: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bench03.jpg
>>
> Okay cool. That is a great bench, I love the simplicity and thickness,
> that SYP is incredible and I wish it could be attained out here on the
> west coast. My bench will be closer to "classic", I have an antique
> quick action iron 7x4 and I will make my own slide-frame end vise
> with two LV screws.
That bench was actually just intended to be my "first" one, with the
idea being that I'd make my "dream" bench sometime down the road. But I
expect it will outlive me. ;-)
> Questions if you don't mind,
>
> What glue did you use for the top?
Titebond Extend (for the longer open time)
> Are you a lefty (vise on the right)?
Yep.
> How well is the leg vise working for you?
It does just about everything I could ask of it. The only problem
I've really noticed is that it's not great for jointing long boards.
But that's partially my own fault, as I never did build a proper bench
slave for it, and instead try to joint boards by supporting them with
that "swiss-cheese" board that runs along the front of the bench. (It
has too much flex to be optimal.)
But the vise is great for holding boards for sawing dovetails,
holding my planing stop/jig, jointing short boards, holding various
odd-shaped things for spokeshaving and carving, etc.
Sometimes I think it might be nice to add an end-vise for planing,
but if I had to have just one, I'd stick with the leg-vise.
Chuck Vance
AAvK wrote:
> All excellent info, thanks much because I need to learn.
Glad to help. I picked the brains of a number of folks from the
Oldtools list and the wreck when I was planning my bench.
> looking at your bench and vise and words...
>
> I thought of placing a leg vise on the 'end front corner', it could be used
> three different ways that way. End vise for top board clamping and in-jaw
> clamping, and with dogs or whatever sticking out the side of the jaw for
> front board clamping with a bench slave and those front dog holes... or
> something like that.
So you mean with the handle on the end of the bench? I suppose that
would work OK. Just be aware that the leg and handle stick out, so they
can tend to get in the way when you're not using them.
FWIW, I've found that unless I'm planing long boards, the leg vise
doesn't come into play for holding boards on top of my bench. I've got
a couple of planing stops (really nothing more than some 1/4" ply cut
into strips) that I clamp to the benchtop using clamps that I've
converted to holddowns (take a standard Jorgy 6" clamp and file the
rivet at the bottom flat and you can remove the clamp head when needed).
I run them through dogholes to secure the stops.
For thicker boards I use a pair of Veritas Wonderdogs in my
dogholes. (A good reason to have round dogholes, but let's not get
*that* discussion started. ;-)
> And 'TB II extend' is also what I thought of for my top, but it will be hard
> maple... don't know if it's strong enough for time in the long run because
> maple isn't very porous... however I will be using threaded rod. How much
> glue did you use just for the top?
IIRC, it was a bit less than a 16 oz. bottle.
FWIW, when I did my glueup I did a full test run (with clamps),
numbered the boards, and clamped it up adding only one board at a time.
(I.e., clamp, let dry overnight, and add one more the next day.) I
was *very* careful to orient all the boards with the grain running the
same direction (for ease of handplaning later), and to get one surface
as close to dead flat as I could at the point of glueup. This made
final flattening of the top a lot easier.
Chuck Vance
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> [pics of the shelves'o'planes from hell]
>
> It's up go take a look.
Jeezus ... you've got it bad, man. If I didn't know better, I'd say
you were a collector. ;-)
> He lives in Seattle, so he goes after salmon.
> kinda makes it worthwhile after dealing with trout.
I'v never had the honor of fishing for salmon. But I can't imagine
it's any more fun than fishing for wild trout in the mountains of North
Carolina. That's where I went in early July, and while I've caught
bigger fish elsewhere, I've never fished in such pretty surroundings:
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bradley01.jpg
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/cherohala02.jpg
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/little01.jpg
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/snowbirdfalls01.jpg
http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/brown.jpg
Chuck Vance (yes, that was a gloat)
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> Conan The Librarian wrote:
>
>> Jeezus ... you've got it bad, man. If I didn't know better, I'd say
>>you were a collector. ;-)
>
> But I'm feeling MUCH better now. %-)
They say the first step to recovery is realizing you have a problem.
;-)
> [snip of pics of western NC]
>
> Very pretty. The UP is pretty too. First time I took my ex fishing she
> caught a 26 3/4" large mouth.
That's a nice fish. Is there any truth to the rumor that they grow
that big because they feed on the Yooper dragonfl ... er ... mosquitoes?
:-)
> Had to let it go though, out of season.
> That may have contributed to my divorce. 5-( Out in wolf Lake, they
> had HUGE trout, immense, bass sized. Hand fishing for tuna off a rubber
> ducky out in Guam was fun to. BIG fish. Can you say sashimi?
I'm guessing you weren't just vacationing in Guam, eh?
Chuck Vance
Pat Barber wrote:
> Born and raised and live in North Carolina.
>
> I live on the ocean and always made fun of the "buggy whip" crowd
> fishing in the "ditch", but it really is beautiful on those little
> trout streams.
>
> I have friends that will drive for six hours to go
> catch those tiny brown trout and they love it.
I can relate. I flew for over three hours and then drove for
another couple just to get to the cabin where I was staying on Big
Snowbird. Then the hike was another hour and a half to get to the spot
where I caught that brown.
And I'm dying to go back. :-)
Chuck Vance
Tom Watson wrote:
> Didya ever cozy up with a copy of "Fishing Bamboo", by Gierach?
>
> Nice little book.
I've got several of Gierach's books, but not the one on bamboo.
Unfortunately, I haven't had the honor of fishing 'boo. Given my
neo-Luddite leanings, I'm guessing I would like it. :-)
> (watson - who could stand a good bamboo rod building thread.
You go first. :-)
Chuck Vance (all I know about building 'boo rods is you need a
planing form ... and a L-N block with the special rodmakers groove)
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> Strangely enough I was in the employ of our Navy. %-) Got to see the
> world and everything.
Ah yes ... it's not just an adventure, it's a job.
> The only problem with the bass catching the
> skeetrs is sometimes the fish goes up and doesn't come back down. It is
> a pleasurable addiction, and less costly than some. Least as long as I
> remain a bottom feeder. Unless I hit the lotto big, I don't see that as
> changing anytime soon. %-(
At least you live in an area where there's a chance to bottom-feed.
Down hyar in oletoolhail they seem to think that the older and rustier
a tool is, the more it's worth ... as a decoration for your "kuntry
kitchen". :-|
Chuck Vance
Dave in Fairfax wrote:
> I go up to NY and through PA fairly frequently. If you have something
> in mind, I'll keep an eye open. Send me a cell or other phone number
> and a price range and if I see it, I'll give you a call and tell you
> what I'm looking at. You decide whether you want it or not. Better
> send the info OFF-line. %-)
No kidding. :-) Thanks for the offer. I'll take you up on it the
next time I'm in the market. For now though, before adding to my ... er
... "arsenal", I need to consider selling some of the stuff I've got
that's sitting unused.
Chuck Vance (not a collector, no sir)
On 28 Jul 2005 13:15:54 -0700, the opaque "rickluce"
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>I have Marple chisels also. The face of the 1 1/2 " had a low spot so
>deep that it took over 3 hours on a diamond stone to take out. But on
You should have dropped by HF and gotten a $10 set of their really
coarse diamond plates for that task, Rick. Save the DMT 600 grit for
the finishing, then 1000/1200 WOD paper, and finalize with a strop.
>the other hand that was 3 hours spent learning how to sharpen on
>relatively cheap chisels. In retrospect it was time well spent. Just
>plan on purchasing/learning a good sharpening system.
Right, any time spent learning to hone your skills (groan) is time
well spent.
--
"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things
over and over and over again for the truth to sink in,
to kind of catapult the propaganda."
G.W. Bush
Greece, N.Y., May 24, 2005
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
>vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
>plastic handles, super cheap).
Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.
gregj wrote:
> Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
> brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
> building a barn.
>
> But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
> planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
> into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
> spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
>
> Thanks.
>
Veritas planes are not $300. I'd be shocked if you thought they were
anything less than "top of the line". The most expensive one is $250.
Mostly they are in the $150-$200 range.
Dave
On 28 Jul 2005 12:31:13 -0700, the opaque "gregj"
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
>brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
>building a barn.
I bought the 5-pc Marples Blue Chips and like them a lot. They're not
too brittle, take a good edge, and sharpen easily enough on my diamond
plate. For carving, my favorite brand is Pfeil (aka Swiss Made.)
>But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
>planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
>into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
>spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.
Yeah, half the time they've already been tuned for you and a bit of
cleanup and sharpening is all that's needed. GREAT value!
--
"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things
over and over and over again for the truth to sink in,
to kind of catapult the propaganda."
G.W. Bush
Greece, N.Y., May 24, 2005
> What specifically don't you like about it? My type 17 #6 is my
> favorite Stanley.
> Chuck Vance (who has a "few" old Stanleys)
>
Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.
The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
the distance of that screw's under-bevel.
I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...
At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the frog,
which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat) area
about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just looking at it.
But obviously it seats on the reciever and all surfaces are flat....
I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the blade
is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the new Hock
HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great many
bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then there
was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.
There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four paragraphs
of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper and the...
LV-V-LABP.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
All excellent info, thanks much because I need to learn.
> Sometimes I think it might be nice to add an end-vise for planing, but if I had to have just one, I'd stick with the leg-vise.
>
>
looking at your bench and vise and words...
I thought of placing a leg vise on the 'end front corner', it could be used
three different ways that way. End vise for top board clamping and in-jaw
clamping, and with dogs or whatever sticking out the side of the jaw for
front board clamping with a bench slave and those front dog holes... or
something like that.
And 'TB II extend' is also what I thought of for my top, but it will be hard
maple... don't know if it's strong enough for time in the long run because
maple isn't very porous... however I will be using threaded rod. How much
glue did you use just for the top?
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
> that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.
>
I agree, I have several old Stanley planes from eBay and one #8 from a local
junk shop, all excellent buys and quality. 'Cept I dislike the #6 type 8.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> Yep. Here's a pic: http://uweb.txstate.edu/~cv01/bench03.jpg
>
>
Okay cool. That is a great bench, I love the simplicity and thickness,
that SYP is incredible and I wish it could be attained out here on the
west coast. My bench will be closer to "classic", I have an antique
quick action iron 7x4 and I will make my own slide-frame end vise
with two LV screws.
Questions if you don't mind,
What glue did you use for the top?
Are you a lefty (vise on the right)?
How well is the leg vise working for you?
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.
I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.
The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).
I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.
Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.
Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:35:08 -0700, fredfighter wrote:
> OLD buck brothers, from before the
> name was sold,
When _did_ BB go downhill? After 1972 or after 1913/1915? It'll be easier
to find some chisels in reasonably good shape if the later year is the
time you're referring to.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
> Possibly the frog design is the second of the
> four designs described here:
>
> http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num3
Yeah that's exactly it. Second from the left. The seller told me it
is a type 8 as he was reading from the Walters book in his email
to me, I confirmed it online:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/dating/
It is a "B" casting with no maker's name anywhere besides "No 6"
on the toe.
> Contrary to what Mr Leach says, that frog design has a
> bad reputation. It is flexible enough that the cutter
> can take a nose-dive when you hit tough spot in the wood.
I didn't experience that when planing doug fir and its many knots
but it is not a very hard wood. I kept the screws nice and tight.
> My guess would be that the face of
> the frog on which the cutter rests is
> not flat, or the problem with the
> lever cap screw causes it to bear
> down harder on one side of the cap
> iron.
Actually I cannot tell too well by looking at it, other than that it is
perfectly flat. I imagined it is some misalignment of mounting to the
reciever... very hard to see. But I did notice some kind of indiscernible
skew there. It is like a rise that causes it at an odd angle, I wouldn't
know how to fettle it because everything is much too slight.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
> I ALWAYS have that problem with wedged
> planes.
>
>
>
> --
>
> FF
>
On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 18:26:36 -0400, the opaque Tom Watson
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>(watson - who could stand a good bamboo rod building thread.
What kind? Would that be a cotton (mercerized or not), linen,
polyester, or nylon thread, Tawm? <groan>
--
Impeach 'em ALL!
----------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
[email protected] wrote:
> I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
> blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
> edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
> pretty easy.
>
> Marples are, OK.
>
> Not great. But OK.
>
> Bill
>
> AAvK wrote:
>
>>I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
>>own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
>>slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
>>take niks in the cutting edge.
>>
>>I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
>>eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
>>a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
>>quality steel.
>>
>>The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
>>a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
>>vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
>>plastic handles, super cheap).
>>
>>I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
>>better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
>>not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
>>merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.
>>
>>Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
>>flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.
>>
>>Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
>>made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.
>>
>>--
>>Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
>>cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
>>not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/
>
>
What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the
level of quality.
Dave
On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 10:13:16 -0500, Conan The Librarian
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Dave in Fairfax wrote:
>
>> PL is doing fine last I saw him, back in Feb/March, whenever our Patina
>> auction was. MJD was there as well. Send him your addy to get back on
>> the list, although I suspect he's still tool hunting as Chuck pointed
>> out. Ass for 3 dozen planes, I'm in triple digits, with lots of
>> spokeshaves. Google for a pic of mine entitled shelf3. I've got at
>> least 3 dozen woodies. Jetpack? Yeehaw!
>
> Oooops, I forgot to include the woodies. :-) But I'm not a big
>collector of them or anything. Probably don't have more than 12-15. :-}
>
> To be totally honest, I've been a bit of a slacker when it comes to
>buying tools. I took up flyfishing again a couple of years back, so now
>I've got another hobby that requires large amounts of gear. (Plus, if
>you ff, you *have* to tie your own flies, so that requires a whole
>different set of stuff.)
>
> I can't seem to find your pic. Got a url for me?
>
>
> Chuck Vance
Didya ever cozy up with a copy of "Fishing Bamboo", by Gierach?
Nice little book.
(watson - who could stand a good bamboo rod building thread.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
David <[email protected]> writes:
> Michael Campbell wrote:
>
> > David <[email protected]> writes:
> >
> >>gregj wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>What do you think of Marples brand chisels?
> >>>
> >>
> >>they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
> >>chisels are much better, believe it or not.
> > Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
> > caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
> > and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
> > necessarily any better edge).
> > I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
> > [feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.
> > --
> > Michael Campbell
> when did you purchase them?
Few years ago. Not sure how that's relevant, however.
Yes, I sharpen them when I need to, but that's well over 5 minutes.
It's not even measured in minutes.
I'm a hobbyist though.
--
Michael Campbell
David <[email protected]> writes:
> gregj wrote:
>
> > What do you think of Marples brand chisels?
> >
> they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
> chisels are much better, believe it or not.
Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
necessarily any better edge).
I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
[feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.
--
Michael Campbell
"gregj" <[email protected]> writes:
> Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
> brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
I highly recomend chinese HSS chisels. They are very easy to sharpen
and hold their edge extremely well.
Look here:
http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.storefront/42e9ccf500364a4e273f50f336090620/Product/View/700980
Unfortunately you only get sizes larger than 1/2"
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23