After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
red oak and walnut.
The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
differnece.
Any ideas on what the cause could be?
Thanks.
ts <[email protected]> wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching.
That is the first of your problems. You want as close to dead on parallel
as possible.
The blade
> seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate.
It needs to be in the neighborhood of .001~.005 to produce good cross cuts.
This will not help rips however.
I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
ts <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts
> on my tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on
> boards that are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with
> hardwoods mainly red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than
> 1/64 further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The
> blade seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a
> combination squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by
> the feather board, hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing
> seems to make a consistent differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
It might be worth getting the wrenches out and checking for loose bolts.
Even if it doesn't fix the problem, you'll be secure in the knowledge
that nothing's moving. (I probably ought to do the same.)
Have you tried a different blade?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
>
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
>
> red oak and walnut.
>
How sharp is your blade? Is it thin kerf? How hard are you feeding. It could be blade flex. A contractor saw trunnion setup is not very solid and can be flexing so it would actually be motor flex.
On Sunday, February 10, 2013 3:13:53 PM UTC-8, ts wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
Is this immediate, or does the concavity come about in the hours
or days after the cut is made?
Oak in particular has a lot of internal stress; a ripped board almost always
curls as it 'relaxes'.
On 2/12/2013 10:51 AM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Sunday, February 10, 2013 3:13:53 PM UTC-8, ts wrote:
>> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
>> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
>> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
>> red oak and walnut.
>
> Is this immediate, or does the concavity come about in the hours
> or days after the cut is made?
>
> Oak in particular has a lot of internal stress; a ripped board almost always
> curls as it 'relaxes'.
While not impossible, I doubt seriously that the OP's problem, in two
different species of wood, is attributable to anything but the table saw
and it's setup 'in toto'; and would venture that "internal stress" in
the wood is not even a contributing factor to his problem.
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/10/2013 6:13 PM, ts wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
> seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
>
Why would you adjust it out of square.
keep it square...
--
Jeff
On Feb 10, 6:13=A0pm, ts <[email protected]> wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on m=
y
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards tha=
t
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainl=
y
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/6=
4
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
> seems square =A0with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather boar=
d,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consisten=
t
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
Dull blade. They inevitably dull faster on one side, which
forces them to lead toward the sharper side, especially
with harder woods.
On 2/10/13 5:13 PM, ts wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
> seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
>
"The far end of the fence is less than 1/64 further out of square with
the miter slot to avoid pinching."
That's the first thing I wonder about. I've heard people prescribe this
notions of the fence tail being slightly "out" but I think it does more
hard than alleged good.
Also, explain why you have no splitter? You may have a good reason....
I've just never heard one. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 2/10/2013 5:13 PM, ts wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
> seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
>
One thing to check - is your fence straight? Use an accurate straight
edge to check.
--
___________________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven
On 2/10/2013 5:13 PM, ts wrote:
> After 15+years of wood working I've started getting concave rip cuts on my
> tablesaw. The concave is ~.015" in the middle of the board, on boards that
> are more than 14-16" long. This happens consistently with hardwoods mainly
> red oak and walnut.
> The saw is a Delta contractor with a shop fox fence,a Forrest blade, a
> feather board, and NO splitter. The far end of the fence is less than 1/64
> further out of square with the miter slot to avoid pinching. The blade
> seems square with the slot - as best I could tell using a combination
> squate. I've experimented with the amount of pressure by the feather board,
> hand position, speed of the feed... and nothing seems to make a consistent
> differnece.
> Any ideas on what the cause could be?
> Thanks.
>
Hopefully you have cured your problem but with the fence set away from
the blade it actually either follows the fence which is unlikely as the
waste is pulling it back toward the blade or it is not following the
fence because of the before mentioned and cutting more narrow the
farther it goes, causing you the concave situation.