I have a veneer project coming up. I have already decided I am going to use
contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
48"x57") and need some advice.
What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? How messy? What
about water based contact cement?
From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact cement
is "doable." Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most appreicated. ;-)
Deb
On Jul 26, 3:57=A0pm, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
> > HD has it on the shelf...even here in a small HD store. Try there?
>
> In my area, 3M 77 is also carried in most any hardware store, auto parts
> stores, office supply stores, photography stores, craft stores...
BBbbut BARRY... (*whispers*) the Doc is in Alabama??
On Jul 26, 8:50=A0am, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Jul 25, 6:38=A0pm, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I have a veneer project coming up. =A0I have already decided I am goin=
g to
> >> use contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough =
-
> >> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>
> >> What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? =A0How messy=
?
> >> What about water based contact cement?
>
> >> From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact
> >> cement is "doable." =A0Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most
> >> appreicated. ;-)
>
> >> Deb
>
> > Is the veneer backed? =A0Like a paper or cloth backing? If it isn't,
> > stay away from water based contact.
> > I'd be inclined to use a can of 3M 77.
>
> Yes, the veneer is 22mil paper backed. =A0Thanks for the tip on the 3m 77=
.
> Now, all I have to do is find it. =A0It is amazing how many things are no=
t
> available in Montgomery, Al. =A0Watching the cooking shows (my other hobb=
y)
> and the DIY shows where they say, "You can get this at your local ____."
> The chances of getting in and around Montgomery are not all that good.
> Thank goodness for online ordering. :-)
>
> Deb
HD has it on the shelf...even here in a small HD store. Try there?
On Jul 26, 8:50=A0am, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
> > On Jul 25, 6:38=A0pm, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I have a veneer project coming up. =A0I have already decided I am goin=
g to
> >> use contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough =
-
> >> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>
> >> What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? =A0How messy=
?
> >> What about water based contact cement?
>
> >> From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact
> >> cement is "doable." =A0Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most
> >> appreicated. ;-)
>
> >> Deb
>
> > Is the veneer backed? =A0Like a paper or cloth backing? If it isn't,
> > stay away from water based contact.
> > I'd be inclined to use a can of 3M 77.
>
> Yes, the veneer is 22mil paper backed. =A0Thanks for the tip on the 3m 77=
.
> Now, all I have to do is find it. =A0It is amazing how many things are no=
t
> available in Montgomery, Al. =A0Watching the cooking shows (my other hobb=
y)
> and the DIY shows where they say, "You can get this at your local ____."
> The chances of getting in and around Montgomery are not all that good.
> Thank goodness for online ordering. :-)
>
> Deb
BTW, the spray comes out in a fan-shape. The right distance will give
you a spray about 6" wide. The glue will have noticeable 'direction'
to it.
It is hard the explain. The 'grain' of the glue will show up as a
'vertical' pattern. Then when spraying the piece that you are going to
attach, turn the spray pattern on that piece 90 degrees, so that the
'glue-grain' crosses at 90 degrees. Allow to dry till you feel a
slight resistance (grabbiness *s*) when you lightly slide your clean
fingers across the glue. The glue should not stick to you. Also, poke
any large bubbles in the glue with a toothpick so that the gas can
escape.
And no open flames in the same building. That includes pilot lights.
I'm sure you already know that.
At the HD type Borgs, they sell rubber rollers which are used to apply
laminate. They can be a bit pricey, but by looking at them, you'll get
the idea what they're about. A 3" x3" block of flat stock and a hammer
works as well.
I don't know how big a piece it is, but suspending it with some clean
dowels, about 3" apart (or other small sticks) then you get to align
your piece and then remove the centre dowel and press the veneer down.
Then work outwards from the centre by removing one stick (dowel) at
the time.
r
Robatoy wrote:
> On Jul 25, 6:38Â pm, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I have a veneer project coming up. Â I have already decided I am going to
>> use contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
>> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>>
>> What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? Â How messy?
>> What about water based contact cement?
>>
>> From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact
>> cement is "doable." Â Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most
>> appreicated. ;-)
>>
>> Deb
>
> Is the veneer backed? Like a paper or cloth backing? If it isn't,
> stay away from water based contact.
> I'd be inclined to use a can of 3M 77.
Yes, the veneer is 22mil paper backed. Thanks for the tip on the 3m 77.
Now, all I have to do is find it. It is amazing how many things are not
available in Montgomery, Al. Watching the cooking shows (my other hobby)
and the DIY shows where they say, "You can get this at your local ____."
The chances of getting in and around Montgomery are not all that good.
Thank goodness for online ordering. :-)
Deb
Dr. Deb wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
>> On Jul 25, 6:38Â pm, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> I have a veneer project coming up. Â I have already decided I am going to
>>> use contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
>>> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>>>
>>> What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? Â How messy?
>>> What about water based contact cement?
>>>
>>> From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact
>>> cement is "doable." Â Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most
>>> appreicated. ;-)
>>>
>>> Deb
>>
>> Is the veneer backed? Like a paper or cloth backing? If it isn't,
>> stay away from water based contact.
>> I'd be inclined to use a can of 3M 77.
>
> Yes, the veneer is 22mil paper backed. Thanks for the tip on the 3m 77.
> Now, all I have to do is find it. It is amazing how many things are not
> available in Montgomery, Al. Watching the cooking shows (my other hobby)
> and the DIY shows where they say, "You can get this at your local ____."
> The chances of getting in and around Montgomery are not all that good.
> Thank goodness for online ordering. :-)
>
> Deb
I bought mine at Lowe's.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
A diplomat thinks twice before saying
nothing.
In article <[email protected]>, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 17:38:21 -0500, Dr. Deb wrote:
>
>> I have a veneer project coming up. I have already decided I am going to use
>> contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
>> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>
>Nothing wrong with contact cement, but if you're veneering a flat surface
>you don't need a veneer press. Hide glue and a veneer hammer will work.
>
And if you decide to go that route, make sure you learn the proper way to use
a veneer hammer first. ;-)
"Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Yes, the veneer is 22mil paper backed. Thanks for the tip on the 3m 77.
> Now, all I have to do is find it. It is amazing how many things are not
> available in Montgomery, Al. Watching the cooking shows (my other hobby)
> and the DIY shows where they say, "You can get this at your local ____."
> The chances of getting in and around Montgomery are not all that good.
> Thank goodness for online ordering. :-)
>
Fortunately, 3M 77 is a common find almost anywhere. You should find it
right on the shelf at Home Depot.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Jul 25, 6:38=A0pm, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a veneer project coming up. =A0I have already decided I am going t=
o use
> contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
> 48"x57") and need some advice.
>
> What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? =A0How messy? =
=A0What
> about water based contact cement?
>
> From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact cem=
ent
> is "doable." =A0Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most appreicated. ;=
-)
>
> Deb
Is the veneer backed? Like a paper or cloth backing? If it isn't,
stay away from water based contact.
I'd be inclined to use a can of 3M 77.
Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
: On Jul 26, 3:57 pm, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
:> Robatoy wrote:
:>
:> > HD has it on the shelf...even here in a small HD store. Try there?
:>
:> In my area, 3M 77 is also carried in most any hardware store, auto parts
:> stores, office supply stores, photography stores, craft stores...
: BBbbut BARRY... (*whispers*) the Doc is in Alabama??
Actually Montgomery has 2 HDs and 2 Lowes, so I really don't understand
the comment about not finding stuff there.
OOPs! The name of the Scandinavian furniture store should read: "Kinnarp's"
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 01:07:33 -0700, Joe Brophy <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 17:38:21 -0500, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have a veneer project coming up. I have already decided I am going to use
>>contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
>>48"x57") and need some advice.
>>
>>What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? How messy? What
>>about water based contact cement?
>>
>>From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact cement
>>is "doable." Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most appreicated. ;-)
>>
>>
>>
>>Deb
>
>Why bother spraying the contact cement, it usually needs to be dry or almost dry before you stick the pieces together, so
>U should have plenty of time to work with it. I would stick to (pun intended, sort of...) cement that is solvent based
>regardless of how it is applied. It would seem that the likely hood of the contact cement getting all over stuff you
>didn't want to glue is increased a bunch vs just brushing it on with a cheap brush.
>
>I have seen two different designs that were "convert able" into a standing "desk". Both were conventional looking when in
>the "lowered" position, with the exception of the top being two pieces. The center part of the desktop where your
>keyboard and mouse might be located for ease of use, was lowered about 3-4", but when the top was raised This lowered
>piece would "slide" up telescoping extensions in the Round tubing of the front inside legs of the desk. These telescoping
>tubes were spring loaded and held in place by detents with push-in "locks" normally, and when you wanted to elevate the
>height the working area of the desk the detent buttons were pushed in allowing the lowered center of the desktop to raise
>up to be at chest level. I would look at it as more of a desk with a "fold-down" podium. My x-wife had to use one of
>these desks due to muscle fatigue that would make sitting down unbearable for very long, caused from a hip injury
>sustained in a car accident. She bought the unit from a Scandinavian business furniture store that went by the name of
>"Kidnap's" if I remember correctly. The store was in Beaverton, Oregon. The other "stand-up desk" I observed belonged to
>a VP in corporate IT in New York who was a business client of mine at the time. Although his desk didn't look much like
>the ione the wife used both desks functioned almost identically to one another, the person in new York had to use to the
>stand up type desk due to some sort of past injury also. I don't know what the brand name was of the desk used by the
>business client. As far as I know, my x-wife is still using her system and swears by it's ability to allow her to work
>effectively at home as a consultant whereas without it she claims she would not be able to work for very long, if at all.
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 17:38:21 -0500, "Dr. Deb" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a veneer project coming up. I have already decided I am going to use
>contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
>48"x57") and need some advice.
>
>What brand and product in that brand would you recommend? How messy? What
>about water based contact cement?
>
>From what little I have been able to Google on this, spraying contact cement
>is "doable." Any hints, advice or help ridicule is most appreicated. ;-)
>
>
>
>Deb
Why bother spraying the contact cement, it usually needs to be dry or almost dry before you stick the pieces together, so
U should have plenty of time to work with it. I would stick to (pun intended, sort of...) cement that is solvent based
regardless of how it is applied. It would seem that the likely hood of the contact cement getting all over stuff you
didn't want to glue is increased a bunch vs just brushing it on with a cheap brush.
I have seen two different designs that were "convert able" into a standing "desk". Both were conventional looking when in
the "lowered" position, with the exception of the top being two pieces. The center part of the desktop where your
keyboard and mouse might be located for ease of use, was lowered about 3-4", but when the top was raised This lowered
piece would "slide" up telescoping extensions in the Round tubing of the front inside legs of the desk. These telescoping
tubes were spring loaded and held in place by detents with push-in "locks" normally, and when you wanted to elevate the
height the working area of the desk the detent buttons were pushed in allowing the lowered center of the desktop to raise
up to be at chest level. I would look at it as more of a desk with a "fold-down" podium. My x-wife had to use one of
these desks due to muscle fatigue that would make sitting down unbearable for very long, caused from a hip injury
sustained in a car accident. She bought the unit from a Scandinavian business furniture store that went by the name of
"Kidnap's" if I remember correctly. The store was in Beaverton, Oregon. The other "stand-up desk" I observed belonged to
a VP in corporate IT in New York who was a business client of mine at the time. Although his desk didn't look much like
the ione the wife used both desks functioned almost identically to one another, the person in new York had to use to the
stand up type desk due to some sort of past injury also. I don't know what the brand name was of the desk used by the
business client. As far as I know, my x-wife is still using her system and swears by it's ability to allow her to work
effectively at home as a consultant whereas without it she claims she would not be able to work for very long, if at all.
On Fri, 25 Jul 2008 17:38:21 -0500, Dr. Deb wrote:
> I have a veneer project coming up. I have already decided I am going to use
> contact cement (not worth it to build a veneer press large enough -
> 48"x57") and need some advice.
Nothing wrong with contact cement, but if you're veneering a flat surface
you don't need a veneer press. Hide glue and a veneer hammer will work.