Making a router table

On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 01:43:24 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:

>What are they, usually? Just a 3/4" dowel or some such?

Mine are 1/4" stainless rod - they just drop into a hole in the table
insert. You want a smooth surface, so it slides easily.

Another useful guide is a horseshoe guide - a long forked rod with a
pair of rounded fingers at the end (imagine a horseshoe on a stalk).
It clamps to the table from behind so that the fingers are just short
of the router cutter's bearing. It's like a pin guide, but double
sided.

My router table has a number of threaded inserts in it, and guides
like this can just be screwed down with thumbscrews, as needed.

--
Smert' spamionam

Mike Alexander wrote:

> I've seen lots of people who don't use guide pins, but personally, if
> I'm not using a fence, I like to have the pin.

I had never even heard of the concept before today, but I think I will rig
one up. I do most of my table routing freehand, with guide bearings, and I
have wound up with more than a few pieces flying out of my hands and making
me look to make sure I still have all 10 fingers.

This sounds like a *really* good idea!

What are they, usually? Just a 3/4" dowel or some such?

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Have your air bags ever deployed in your car??

dave

Sherfey's wrote:

> I am going to be making a router table from some plans that I saw in an
> issue of American Woodworker They have an option for a freehand routing
> fence that includes a guide pin. I have freehanded several curves and such
> without a guide pin and have never had any problems. My question
> is......... are they necessary for freehanding or am I just biding my time
> before something bad happens?
>
> TIA,
> Scott
>
> Please e-mail also if possible since I do not get the opportunity to check
> back more than once a week.
> [email protected]
>
>

Thanks Mike. Sounds like the effort to use a pin is worth it.

Scott


"Mike Alexander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sherfey's wrote:
> > I am going to be making a router table from some plans that I saw in an
> > issue of American Woodworker They have an option for a freehand routing
> > fence that includes a guide pin. I have freehanded several curves and
such
> > without a guide pin and have never had any problems. My question
> > is......... are they necessary for freehanding or am I just biding my
time
> > before something bad happens?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Scott
> >
> > Please e-mail also if possible since I do not get the opportunity to
check
> > back more than once a week.
> > [email protected]
> >
> >
>
> If you are thinking the same thing as I am for "guide pin", they are
> used when working free hand on a router table to rotate the piece onto
> the bit. Once you are on the bit, there is no need to maintain contact
> with the pin.
>
> When you are moving a piece onto the bit without a pin, the router has a
> tendency to try and throw the piece back at you. This is because, while
> you are approaching the bit, there is no real resistance, but as soon as
> you make contact, there is. If your reaction time is ever a little slow,
> then you may not counteract that sudden resistance on time, and you
> may find the piece lodged in your belly.
>
> With a guide pin, you can push the piece against the pin, and start
> applying pushing pressure on the piece before you make contact with the
> bit, so the router can't throw it back.
>
> I've seen lots of people who don't use guide pins, but personally, if
> I'm not using a fence, I like to have the pin.
>
> ...Mike
>

Sherfey's wrote:
> I am going to be making a router table from some plans that I saw in an
> issue of American Woodworker They have an option for a freehand routing
> fence that includes a guide pin. I have freehanded several curves and such
> without a guide pin and have never had any problems. My question
> is......... are they necessary for freehanding or am I just biding my time
> before something bad happens?
>
> TIA,
> Scott
>
> Please e-mail also if possible since I do not get the opportunity to check
> back more than once a week.
> [email protected]
>
>

If you are thinking the same thing as I am for "guide pin", they are
used when working free hand on a router table to rotate the piece onto
the bit. Once you are on the bit, there is no need to maintain contact
with the pin.

When you are moving a piece onto the bit without a pin, the router has a
tendency to try and throw the piece back at you. This is because, while
you are approaching the bit, there is no real resistance, but as soon as
you make contact, there is. If your reaction time is ever a little slow,
then you may not counteract that sudden resistance on time, and you
may find the piece lodged in your belly.

With a guide pin, you can push the piece against the pin, and start
applying pushing pressure on the piece before you make contact with the
bit, so the router can't throw it back.

I've seen lots of people who don't use guide pins, but personally, if
I'm not using a fence, I like to have the pin.

...Mike

Silvan wrote:
>
> What are they, usually? Just a 3/4" dowel or some such?
>

Mine is a 1/2" stainless steel rod, with a 1/4" peg on one end that fits
into a hole in my base plate. I have a Veritas base plate, and the guide
pin came with it.

It should be as close to the edge of the hole in your base plate as
possible, so that it is close to the bit, and can be used for smaller
pieces.

The Router Workshop guys say it should be between you and the bit, but I
prefer it to the right of the bit. I don't know what difference it
makes, but if someone else does, I'd like to hear it.

...Mike

No, but that could be either a positive or a negative. Which side are you
leaning to?

Scott


"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have your air bags ever deployed in your car??
>
> dave
>
> Sherfey's wrote:
>
> > I am going to be making a router table from some plans that I saw in an
> > issue of American Woodworker They have an option for a freehand routing
> > fence that includes a guide pin. I have freehanded several curves and
such
> > without a guide pin and have never had any problems. My question
> > is......... are they necessary for freehanding or am I just biding my
time
> > before something bad happens?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Scott
> >
> > Please e-mail also if possible since I do not get the opportunity to
check
> > back more than once a week.
> > [email protected]
> >
> >
>

I'd say it indicates that a) you are an excellent driver (caused no
major accidents) and b) you've been lucky not to have been hit by some
cell phone equipped moron plowing through an intersection in his/her SUV.

dave

Sherfey's wrote:

> No, but that could be either a positive or a negative. Which side are you
> leaning to?
>
> Scott
>
>
> "Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Have your air bags ever deployed in your car??
>>
>>dave
>>
>>Sherfey's wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I am going to be making a router table from some plans that I saw in an
>>>issue of American Woodworker They have an option for a freehand routing
>>>fence that includes a guide pin. I have freehanded several curves and
>
> such
>
>>>without a guide pin and have never had any problems. My question
>>>is......... are they necessary for freehanding or am I just biding my
>
> time
>
>>>before something bad happens?
>>>
>>>TIA,
>>>Scott
>>>
>>>Please e-mail also if possible since I do not get the opportunity to
>
> check
>
>>>back more than once a week.
>>>[email protected]
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>