gs

gregg

19/01/2005 5:31 PM

Question: Shooting board design

Well there's a question I have about a simple thing such as a shooting
board. It's a little difficult to describe in words, but as no pictures are
allowed here:

Assume a simple 90 degree shooting board that you want to use to true up an
endgrain edge. like a bench hook, there's the backstop against which you
place the work..which keeps the piece from skittering off to the other side
of the shop.

If the end of the backstop isn't lined up with the edge of the workpiece
then you will get tearout.

If the edge is coincident with the end of the backstop, then, when you
plane, there will be no tearout on the back edge of the workpiece. But
then, the plane iron will chop away at the end of the backstop. And the
next workpiece you try to shoot will get tearout.

I suppose one could ease the back edge of the workpiece.

Or just stop the plane before it hits the backstop, when you get close to a
trued edge.

But I've never heard of those two ideas in anything I've read about shooting
boards. I've experienced the tearout first hand. is there a detail of
shooting board design I've overlooked?

thanks


--
Saville

Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html

Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm

Steambending FAQ with photos:
http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm


This topic has 2 replies

ML

"Michael Latcha"

in reply to gregg on 19/01/2005 5:31 PM

19/01/2005 10:45 PM

You are correct in that your backstop must be positioned so that it backs up
the end grain cut, and it gets shorter all the time. Dovetailing it in
place allows it to be repositioned easily. Lots of good information, and a
ramped shooting board that works great, here:

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/shootingboards/shootingindex.htm

Michael Latcha - at home in Redford, MI



"gregg" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well there's a question I have about a simple thing such as a shooting
> board. It's a little difficult to describe in words, but as no pictures
> are
> allowed here:
>
> Assume a simple 90 degree shooting board that you want to use to true up
> an
> endgrain edge. like a bench hook, there's the backstop against which you
> place the work..which keeps the piece from skittering off to the other
> side
> of the shop.
>
> If the end of the backstop isn't lined up with the edge of the workpiece
> then you will get tearout.
>
> If the edge is coincident with the end of the backstop, then, when you
> plane, there will be no tearout on the back edge of the workpiece. But
> then, the plane iron will chop away at the end of the backstop. And the
> next workpiece you try to shoot will get tearout.
>
> I suppose one could ease the back edge of the workpiece.
>
> Or just stop the plane before it hits the backstop, when you get close to
> a
> trued edge.
>
> But I've never heard of those two ideas in anything I've read about
> shooting
> boards. I've experienced the tearout first hand. is there a detail of
> shooting board design I've overlooked?
>
> thanks
>
>
> --
> Saville
>
> Replicas of 15th-19th century nautical navigational instruments:
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/backstaffhome.html
>
> Restoration of my 82 year old Herreshoff S-Boat sailboat:
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/SBOATrestore.htm
>
> Steambending FAQ with photos:
> http://home.comcast.net/~saville/Steambend.htm
>

As

Australopithecus scobis

in reply to gregg on 19/01/2005 5:31 PM

20/01/2005 9:16 AM

On Wed, 19 Jan 2005 22:45:32 +0000, Michael Latcha wrote:

> You are correct in that your backstop must be positioned so that it backs up
> the end grain cut, and it gets shorter all the time.

If you use a short backstop... I used a tall backstop, taller than the
plane. So, I have a top reference for the left edge of the plane. The
bottom of the backstop got planed off with first use, but it won't get any
shorter.

For the OP, you want to set your blade for a fine cut. Then the couple of
thous distance between the ends of your backstop and your work won't lead
to tearout. I get see-through shavings off maple endgrain and my Mk I
shoot board is made of _pine_. The backstop is a tubafor!

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com


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