I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
find an answer to a question I have.
I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
John
I suggest having plenty of lights and wire them with independent switches.
This will allow you to get as much light as you need where you need it when
you need it, but will allow you to shut off those you don't.
--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
"John Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
On Aug 16, 6:36?pm, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
John
Lots of nice suggestions here already.
First off stick with 48" flourescents. 8' are not widely available for
a good reason. Not popular and difficult to work with. Don't get cheap
fixures. They cost more. If you are ambitious feed each fixture with
two circuits/switches. 4 bulb fixtures will have two ballasts so you
can feed each ballast and the two bulbs with each circuit. Where I
used to work the lighting circuits/switches/wiring will be 40 years
old next year. No switch, wiring or fixture failures yet. The switches
were $3.00 or more that many years ago. The switches were operate many
times a day. We did bulb changes yearly.
This way you can change the lighting intensity without going the
dimmer route. 4 bulb fixtures will have two ballasts so you can feed
one allast and two bulbs seperately.
Ther is some information on the net with recomended lighting layouts.
If you are ambitious go look at some commercial buildings.
Don't skimp on wire size. #12 all the way. Get better more expensive
switches. They last longer and fail less often. Specification grade.
Stay away from the cheap ones.
Put in a spare circuit from the panel feeding the shop. Use this as an
emergency light in case any of your machinery/tools drop out your main
feed whatever it is. Also have an outlet on this circuit. This way you
can shut everything off and still have a light and receptacle to make
any changes and not be in the dark.
Enjoy
Bob AZ
On Aug 16, 9:36 pm, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
I would suggest 4' bulbs, chaper, easier to store. You can get eight
foot fixtures that hold 4 4' bulbs.
I would also suggest using duplex outlets and plugging fixtures into
them for easy replacement (ballasts or fixture).
There is a t-8 type and a t-12 type, I believe. With the latter more
efficient than the former - may be moot as they may no longer make the
less efficient units.
White ceilings and walls hlp a lot. Additional HIGH INTENSITY lighting
over specific tools/areas on individual switches has proven a good
idea over time.
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
On Aug 16, 6:36 pm, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings.
>,,,I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8' long.
4' tubes are normal for 120V circuitry; you might want to stick
to those (and be sure to get electronic-ballast fixtures).
My own experience is that the diffuse light from fluorescents makes
some
texture and edge discrimination more difficult; wire to a few boxes on
the ceiling in case you want halogen, sodium-vapor or other
pointsource
lights installed later.
On Aug 17, 11:29 am, Gerald Ross <[email protected]> wrote:
> John Starr wrote:
> > I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> > find an answer to a question I have.
>
> > I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> > would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> > many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> > long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> > Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> > Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> > John
>
> I changed out all my 4' T12 to T8 electronic ballasts and bulbs last
> year. No more hum, no flicker in cold weather and instant on. They may
> make T12 ballasts in electronic, and probably do, but I am really
> happy with my T8's.
T8 flicker rate is imperceptible at 24,000 cps, electronic ballast.
John,
I ran your room through my lighting software program. The reflectance
values were standard 80-50-20 which equates to white ceiling, tan -
light painted walls and concrete floor. Mounted at 10'
To achieve the following use - 4' - T8 strip fixtures
30 average foot candles you'll need 6 at 4' - 2 rows of 3
40 average foot candles you'll need 9 at 4' - 3 rows of 3
50 average foot candles you'll need 12 at 4' - 4 rows of 3
I'd go with 841 lamps. They cost a bit more but they like all
fluorescent lamps will last as follows
30,000 hours with 12 hour starts and 24,000 hours with 3 hour starts.
The 8 stands for 80+ CRI - Color rendering - The higher the color
rendering the more a color looks like it should. Sunlight and an
incandescent lamp have a CRI of 100. They encompass all the spectrum
of light.
A higher CRI lamp will in a sense contain more of the light 'spectrum'
per se'.
The X41 stands for 4100 Kelvin. An incandescent lamp is about 2700K.
The higher the Kelvin the whiter and actually bluer it looks. For the
older generation. A higher Kelvin is better due to visual acuity and
the aging of eyes. Also the higher the Kelvin, studies have shown the
lower amount of light is needed. If your wondering what the heck does
30 foot candles look like. If you work in an office its engineered at
30Fc, A hallway is at 10Fc. A parking garage is 5Fc. A Gym is 30Fc.
If you'd like, Send me an Email and I'll send over the lighting
layouts for you.
[email protected]
Bob
On Aug 17, 6:34?pm, LAI <[email protected]> wrote:
> John,
>
> I ran your room through my lighting software program. The reflectance
> values were standard 80-50-20 which equates to white ceiling, tan -
> light painted walls and concrete floor. Mounted at 10'
Bob
Where does one get a "lighting software program"?
Bob AZ
On Aug 18, 5:03 pm, Bob AZ <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Where does one get a "lighting software program"?
>
> Bob AZ
Bob, Lithonia Lighting (Conyers, GA - outside Atlanta) has a pretty
decent program - 'Visual' that comes in a 'basic' and a 'professional'
version. The 'basic' version is free and will easily do things like a
shop. The 'professional' version is far more versatile and really not
that expensive ($125 when I got mine, but haven't checked recently -
doubt it would be much more).
http://www.visuallightingsoftware.com/
Try out the 'Basic' version -- I think you'll be satisfied.
-- john (Architect)
I use 5 x 8' lights on the ceiling in my 20 x 40 shop mostly in the
center of the ceiling. This is background lighting. I have 6 x 4'
lights mounted 4' down from the ceiling on a piece of plywood. hinged
to the wall. I have a string attached to the upper side of the lights
so I can lower them down to be parallel to the ceiling or raise them
to be perpendicular to the ceiling and out of the way. Because the
lights are closer to my work I get much better illumination. Most of
the time I keep the lights at 45degrees to the wall and the ceiling
which does a nice job of eliminating any shadows anywhere in the
shop.
On Aug 23, 4:14 pm, Oughtsix <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use 5 x 8' lights on the ceiling in my 20 x 40 shop mostly in the
> center of the ceiling. This is background lighting. I have 6 x 4'
> lights mounted 4' down from the ceiling on a piece of plywood. hinged
> to the wall. I have a string attached to the upper side of the lights
> so I can lower them down to be parallel to the ceiling or raise them
> to be perpendicular to the ceiling and out of the way. Because the
> lights are closer to my work I get much better illumination. Most of
> the time I keep the lights at 45degrees to the wall and the ceiling
> which does a nice job of eliminating any shadows anywhere in the
> shop.
P.S. I would rather climb up the the ceiling and replace 5 eight foot
bulbs than 10 four foot bulbs. And yes, the bulbs with the
rectangular contact ends are much easier to replace than the pin end
bulbs.
"Roger Shoaf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I suggest having plenty of lights and wire them with independent switches.
> This will allow you to get as much light as you need where you need it
> when
> you need it, but will allow you to shut off those you don't.
>
Oye! I have 15 fixtures in my garage. I can't imagine having 15 switched
ganged on the wall just to gain independent control of each light. I have
mine switched by bay, so that each bay can be turned on or off. Two of the
bays have 6 fixtures and the third has 3.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"John Starr" wrote:
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
Use F96T12HO lamps, two(2) per fixture.
This is a two (2) lamp, 8 ft luminaire.
Plan on three (3) luminaires/row, 3 rows on 10 ft centers(ie: first
row starts 5 ft away from wall).
Have fun.
Lew
Markem wrote:
> On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:06:02 -0600, Chris Friesen
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Bob AZ wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Don't skimp on wire size. #12 all the way.
>>
>>Why would you ever use #12 wiring for lighting?
>>
>>#14 allows for roughly 40 4-ft T12 bulbs, or 45 T8 bulbs. That seems
>>excessive for a single circuit.
>
>
> If the circuit is fused (or circuit breaker) is for 20 amps #12 wire
> is required by code.
Well sure...if it's a multipurpose circuit. "Bob AZ"'s post sounded
like it was recommending #12 even for dedicated lighting circuits.
Chris
"Bob AZ" wrote:
> Where does one get a "lighting software program"?
You can always stay with the old grade school math program.
Assume lumen depreciation over life of lamp = 0.9
Dirt Depreciation =0.6-0.9 based on conditions
Luminaire efficiency (Includes an up light allowance)= 0.6
Maintained Lumens = (Initial Lumens)(0.9)(0.8)(0.6) = 0.432)(Initial
lumens), for medium dirt conditions.
(1 Lumen)/(1 square foot) = 1 foot candle.
The above are based on a florescent lamp source, and a maintained light
level 36" above the floor.
Time for a beer.
Lew
"John Starr" wrote: .
> After reading the comments I am still a little confused on why would
> you use 4' lights v 8' lights. If the building is 30' long three 8'
> lights per row and you are done. Why string so much wire for 4''s?
Take the time to examine the lamp terminations of a 4 ft lamp and then an 8
ft lamp.
The weak point in the 4 ft lamp system is the lamp/socket connection.
Lew
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:06:02 -0600, Chris Friesen
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bob AZ wrote:
>
>> Don't skimp on wire size. #12 all the way.
>
>Why would you ever use #12 wiring for lighting?
>
>#14 allows for roughly 40 4-ft T12 bulbs, or 45 T8 bulbs. That seems
>excessive for a single circuit.
If the circuit is fused (or circuit breaker) is for 20 amps #12 wire
is required by code.
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
John,
I have 8' strips with 2 lamps each placed end to end in several rows across
my shop and the light level and working conditions are great. As your shop
is longer than mine you will need 5 rows of these strips spaced 5 ft apart
with 3 fixtures in each row to cover the whole ceiling. That will leave you
2.5 ft between the last row and the wall in one direction and 3 ft to the
wall in the other direction. With no reflectors on the strips and just a
white painted sheetrock ceiling you will have very bright, even, and nearly
reflection free lighting across your whole shop. If you wish, you can break
the lighting circuit into 2 or 3 sections so that you can leave one end of
the shop dark if you don't plan on working there. You should definitely get
fixtures with electronic ballasts if your shop temperature will not be
maintained above 60 degrees F or you will have problems when you turn them
on and it's cold. I like daylight colored tubes in my machine areas and cool
white in my finishing area. The daylight color helps me see lines better
when cutting and assembling and the cool white helps me see colors as they
will usually be seen when inside a home with incandescent lighting. My
previous shop had 4' fixtures and I wasn't very happy with them. It seemed
like I was forever replacing a lamp here and another lamp there. I have
found that the 8' lamps in my new shop last significantly longer. In fact,
the shop is now about 12 years old and I have only replaced 6 of the
original lamps, and 2 of those were broken when they were hit by moving a
long board.
Everybody has their own opinion about what is best in shop lighting. I
suggest that you compare my way to a similarly illuminated store with a 10'
white ceiling and 8' strip lighting somewhere in your area to see if that
level of lighting is right for you. When I was planning my shop I based it's
lighting design on what was in a store near me and it has worked out very
well. The only dedicated use light that I have is on one of my drill
presses, and it came with the drill press. I haven't had need for any other.
Even the benches along the walls seem to have adequate light.
Charley
"John Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
John Starr <[email protected]> writes:
>I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
>find an answer to a question I have.
>
>I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>John
>
In my 18'x25' shop, I have (4) 8-foot two-bulb F96T12C50's, in two
rows lengthwise (parallel to the 25' dimension) at about 1/3
and 2/3 of the 18' dimension. Plenty of light.
For your shop, I'd add a third row and space the fixtures evenly.
Note the "C50". Chroma 50 bulbs provide color rendition pretty
darn close to daylight.
If you can get T8's instead of T12's (may need to work through
Graingers or a local lighting supplier) with electronic ballasts,
go for it (but stick with the c50's).
scott
"John Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
I agree with the others to go with 4 foot fixtures. There is a much better
selection of bulbs types for them.
I prefer a bulb with a color temperature of around 3500K. Lower color temps
are just trying to emulate incandescent or halogen, unless you want the
"warmth" (pointless in a shop). Lamps over 4100K are too cool to me for shop
use.
Get lamps with a color rendering index (CRI) of at least 80. Lower CRIs can
cause colors to appear shifted and inaccurate.
Finally you need enough light to properly illuminate the work areas and the
fixtures need to be positioned to avoid shadow areas.
John
John Starr wrote:
> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
I recently installed lighting in my 28'X44' shop.
I used 24-4' T8 fixtures from Home Depot .. .. it looks like Chernobyl
when they're all on. Exactly what I had hoped for. To mount them, I
first installed a grid of suspended tracks made of 2.25" wide & 8' long
strips of mdf fastened to the ceiling with .375 spacers in between. I
can move the light wherever I need them, running them either lengthwise
or crossways, and just plug them into the nearest recepticle. I
installed 36 duplex recepticles in the ceiling, hooked into two
circuits, with each group of six controlled by one switch. A little
overkill for sure, but it sure is handy at times to be able to
add/move/change the configuration without ever having to pull another
wire !! !! !!
Yep that's what we used to do, and thats what I have. Federal Energy
regulation have made it so the old magnetic ballasts won't be
available. Think in terms of electronic ballasts. The hottest
technology is T8, T5/HO and LED. Cost wise look at T8. We are just
finishing up a 3 Bldg complex by gutting the existing 4 lamp 2x4
troffers putting in a new 2'L reflector with a High Output T8 ballast
and High Lumen T8 lamps. People are complaining its too bright and we
cut the connected KW in half and the serving utility is paying 2/3's
of the cost. Sixteen month payback. For a home shop look at the T8's
good light higher CRI and will be current technology for awhile.
Mike M
On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:48:23 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"John Starr" wrote:
>
>> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
>
>Use F96T12HO lamps, two(2) per fixture.
>
>This is a two (2) lamp, 8 ft luminaire.
>
>Plan on three (3) luminaires/row, 3 rows on 10 ft centers(ie: first
>row starts 5 ft away from wall).
>
>Have fun.
>
>Lew
>
"John Starr" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
I covered a 21'x24' area with 9 four foot fluorescent fixtures. I like the
four footers because they give less hum. I installed chain pulls on all of
the lights and a single switch at the door. My wife uses about one third of
the are for ceramics and the rest is for my metal working machinery.
Basically, we enter the room, turn on the switch and whichever 'chains' were
left on light up. Simply pull the chain(s) on whatever area you are going
to work and turn off the rest. Upon leaving we just turn off the main
switch at the door. This way we save energy by not having all the lights
on, or, not having a 'group' of lights on when we only need one.
BTW, I have 14' ceilings and hung the lights so they are at approximately 8
feet above the floor.
Ivan Vegvary
John Starr wrote:
> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
> find an answer to a question I have.
>
> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> John
>
I changed out all my 4' T12 to T8 electronic ballasts and bulbs last
year. No more hum, no flicker in cold weather and instant on. They may
make T12 ballasts in electronic, and probably do, but I am really
happy with my T8's.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
The large print giveth and the small
print taketh away.
John Starr wrote:
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I agree with others re 4' lights and switches. Additionally...
The lights in my shop are in drywalled, recessed areas in the ceiling
between trusses. I have yet to smack one with a long board.
If your shop will have finished walls/ceilings, paint them white.
With glossy paint. Floor too.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
One other thought if dollars are tight and you have a lot of retrofits
in your area, we usually have trailers of old lighting fixtures
sitting around and we don't bother with security. Lot of times the
local scroungers save us the trouble of parting them out for
recycling. The copper fixture wire is gone the first night.
Mike M
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 22:56:08 -0700, Mike M
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Yep that's what we used to do, and thats what I have. Federal Energy
>regulation have made it so the old magnetic ballasts won't be
>available. Think in terms of electronic ballasts. The hottest
>technology is T8, T5/HO and LED. Cost wise look at T8. We are just
>finishing up a 3 Bldg complex by gutting the existing 4 lamp 2x4
>troffers putting in a new 2'L reflector with a High Output T8 ballast
>and High Lumen T8 lamps. People are complaining its too bright and we
>cut the connected KW in half and the serving utility is paying 2/3's
>of the cost. Sixteen month payback. For a home shop look at the T8's
>good light higher CRI and will be current technology for awhile.
>
>Mike M
>
>
>On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:48:23 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"John Starr" wrote:
>>
>>> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>>> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>>> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>>> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>>> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>>
>>
>>Use F96T12HO lamps, two(2) per fixture.
>>
>>This is a two (2) lamp, 8 ft luminaire.
>>
>>Plan on three (3) luminaires/row, 3 rows on 10 ft centers(ie: first
>>row starts 5 ft away from wall).
>>
>>Have fun.
>>
>>Lew
>>
There is no such thing as to much light in a workshop...
Dave N
<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:
> John Starr wrote:
>
>> I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
>> find an answer to a question I have.
>> I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>> would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>> many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>> long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>> Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>> John
>>
>
> I recently installed lighting in my 28'X44' shop.
> I used 24-4' T8 fixtures from Home Depot .. .. it looks like Chernobyl
> when they're all on. Exactly what I had hoped for. To mount them, I
> first installed a grid of suspended tracks made of 2.25" wide & 8' long
> strips of mdf fastened to the ceiling with .375 spacers in between. I
> can move the light wherever I need them, running them either lengthwise
> or crossways, and just plug them into the nearest recepticle. I
> installed 36 duplex recepticles in the ceiling, hooked into two
> circuits, with each group of six controlled by one switch. A little
> overkill for sure, but it sure is handy at times to be able to
> add/move/change the configuration without ever having to pull another
> wire !! !! !!
On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 16:08:35 -0700, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
>After reading the comments I am still a little confused on why would
>you use 4' lights v 8' lights. If the building is 30' long three 8'
>lights per row and you are done. Why string so much wire for 4''s?
>
>From the comments I have come up with somewhat of a plan. A row along
>each side 4' from the wall, and than another row7' in from that one. 4
>rows of 28' lighting.
>
>John
>
>On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:36:50 -0700, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
>>find an answer to a question I have.
>>
>>I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>>would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>>many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>>long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>>Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>>
>>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>>John
You can get the 4' lamps in what's called a tandem fixture which has
an 8' shell. Compare the price on 4' and 8' T8 lamps. Your going to
be buying electronic ballasts so you might as well move up to the
current technology.
Mike M
On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 10:07:23 -0600, Chris Friesen
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hoosierpopi wrote:
>
>> There is a t-8 type and a t-12 type, I believe. With the latter more
>> efficient than the former - may be moot as they may no longer make the
>> less efficient units.
>
>Other way around...T8 is generally more efficient, usually due to the
>electronic ballast.
>
>Chris
Oh, you may get away with shoplifting for a time or two but you WILL
ultimately get nabbed. And then think about the consequences.........
ooops... shop LIGHTING...... nevermind................
After reading the comments I am still a little confused on why would
you use 4' lights v 8' lights. If the building is 30' long three 8'
lights per row and you are done. Why string so much wire for 4''s?
From the comments I have come up with somewhat of a plan. A row along
each side 4' from the wall, and than another row7' in from that one. 4
rows of 28' lighting.
John
On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 18:36:50 -0700, John Starr <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have read through many posts on shop lighting but have not seemed to
>find an answer to a question I have.
>
>I am in the process of building a 30x30 shop with 10' ceilings. I
>would like to know what others have done and found successful in how
>many lights have they put in. I plan on using fluorescent lights, 8'
>long. How far apart would you put the rows, how far from the walls?
>Would you run lights around the perimeter with rows down the middle?
>
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>John