[email protected] writes:
>
>I usually make them with 1/2" material on the top and 1/4" on the
>bottom.
Okay, that was what I was going to do but with a 1x6 on top of the 1/4",
then, after looking at the saw closely, it looked like that would be too
thick. I'll just use 1/2" instead; I think the body/motor of the saw will
clear that. I picked up some 1/2" Russian birch plywood yesterday, do you
think that will work for the top piece (if I use the factory edge next to
the saw)?
I still cannot believe I didn't think of making this type of guide many
years ago. I'm usually more alert than that to ways to save energy and
time while maintaining accuracy. But then, that is why I'm a novice. :-)
>
>
>Are you cutting with the blade at full depth? If so you can raise the
>blade, this is pretty well necessary if you are using supports under
>the sheet you are cutting.
No, I usually have the blade go 1/8" to 1/4" below the wood, never more
than 1/2". That comes from those years of cutting on the living/dining
room floor, can't risk it going deeper with only 4x4 supports. That and
the fact that cleaner cuts result by not having the extra blade "hanging"
down there, or so was my perception.
>
>
>There are plans here that have notches in the end to allow room to
>clear the clamps:
>http://benchnotes.com/Skillsaw%20Guide/skillsaw_cutting_guide_boa.htm
That is a great page. Thank you. It really makes it very clear.
BTW, I spent some time at your pages. Those are great. I've printed them
to pdf files so I can read them off-line. There are a lot of answers to
things I was uncertain about and will be a lot more when there is time to
really read over them.
Thank you for sharing so much great information!!!
Glenna