In article
<ab3af06c-1e3c-401e-bc23-099379e4c85e@c21g2000yqi.googlegroups.com>,
SonomaProducts.com <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
> piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
> feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
> sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
<http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
--
Woodworking and more at <http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
In article <[email protected]>, Roy
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >> news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> >> I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
> >> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
> >
> >>I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
> >>and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.
> >
> >>I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
> >>sharpen it?
> >
> >I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
> >;~)
> >
> >It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
> >gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
> >as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
> >stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...
> >
> >I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
> >if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
> >
>
> How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it? 99
> cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.
Ayup. If you really want scary, use a diamond paste...
--
Woodworking and more at <http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
In article <[email protected]>, John
Grossbohlin <[email protected]> wrote:
> Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!
No the blade radius is larger than that. 1/16 is achieved by adjusting
the blade.
--
Woodworking and more at <http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
On 26 Jan 2012 13:58:47 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
>bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
>Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.
>
>Puckdropper
OoooOOOOoooooh, you mean on a board. I was gonna' say "A double shot
of Makers Mark."
>
> ...and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
> applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)
>
> John- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yes, I apply this method when doing less "formal" pieces or
specifically to be a bit more anitquish or classical. I really try not
to sand it out after. It is a great joy with a well tuned plane.
Again, I think the eye percieves the difference. I believe if you had
two identical pieces except for using these two round over methods,
the planed version would look somehow more antique. The brain sees
things we don't realize.
On 1/26/2012 7:58 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
> To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
> bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
> Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.
>
> Puckdropper
I have discovered Mirka Goldflex soft sand paper. I use 180 grit and
sand the edges by hand. the soft foam backing reduces pressure on the
edges so that they get a consistent eased effect. The paper is quite
strong and not likely to tare.
http://www.mirka.com/en/Abrasives/Abrasives_by-Form/?productgroup=Sheets___1&product=GOLDFLEX-SOFT___29S
"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...
I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
==================================================================
Take a piece of wood of the shape you want for a slip, spray with adhesive
and stick the appropriate grit of sandpaper to it. Alternatively, take that
same shaped stick and apply loose abrasive (valve grinding compound, ect.
and go at it.
Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end of a grain and
your piece is screwed.
---------------
"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
<http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
>> ...and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
>> applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)
>>
>> John- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Yes, I apply this method when doing less "formal" pieces or
> specifically to be a bit more anitquish or classical. I really try not
> to sand it out after. It is a great joy with a well tuned plane.
> Again, I think the eye percieves the difference. I believe if you had
> two identical pieces except for using these two round over methods,
> the planed version would look somehow more antique. The brain sees
> things we don't realize.
I don't sand the round over either... just the flats leading up to it. I
like the subtle faceted aspect of the planed corners.
Given that the vast majority of the things I make have their design roots in
the 17th to mid 20th century the planed corners work out just fine. I feel
no compulsion to overdo them. On the other hand, when I want a heavy round
over I use my shaper. ;~)
John
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ee649520-8a9d-488c-9be9-8e69ab7401e8@z31g2000vbt.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 27, 6:55 am, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end of a grain and
> your piece is screwed.
>
> ---------------"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
>
> news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
>I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
>and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.
>I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
>sharpen it?
I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
;~)
It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...
I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
John
On Jan 26, 5:58=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
> bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
> Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.
Also very easy to match using sand paper when you pre-round pieces
that might lap for instance and you have to leave some undone near the
joint and finish the round over after assembly.
I am always amazed how table legs go from a long square piece of
sanded lumber to a beautiful furniture component as you apply that
roundover to the 4 edges.
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ab3af06c-1e3c-401e-bc23-099379e4c85e@c21g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 26, 5:58 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> To ease over straight edges, simply clamp a piece of sandpaper to your
> bench and pass the edge over the paper, changing the angle each time.
> Three or 4 passes later, and you've got a simple eased edge.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
> I use a 1/16th round over wherever I can if I am making a formal
> piece. You would be surprised how much more elegant a piece looks and
> feels with that nearly imperceptible detail. Not an easy bit to find
> sometimes but I always have a 1/2" and 1/4" shank version around.
> Also very easy to match using sand paper when you pre-round pieces
> that might lap for instance and you have to leave some undone near the
> joint and finish the round over after assembly.
> I am always amazed how table legs go from a long square piece of
> sanded lumber to a beautiful furniture component as you apply that
> roundover to the 4 edges.
...and for those of use who hate the sound of a router, a block plane
applied before the final hand-sanding works nicely. ;~)
John
On Jan 27, 10:57=A0pm, Dave Balderstone
<dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, John
>
> Grossbohlin <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!
>
> No the blade radius is larger than that. 1/16 is achieved by adjusting
> the blade.
>
> --
> Woodworking and more at <http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
Check out the Slick Planes too...carbide cutters I think.
JP
On Jan 27, 6:55=A0am, "m II" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Trouble with a plane for finishing is you catch an end =A0of a grain and
> your piece is screwed.
>
> ---------------"Dave Balderstone" =A0wrote in message
>
> news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
> I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=3D64284&cat=3D1,41182>
I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.
I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
sharpen it?
"Roy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>> news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
>>> I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
>>> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
>>
>>>I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
>>>and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.
>>
>>>I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
>>>sharpen it?
>>
>>I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the
>>page.
>>;~)
>>
>>It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
>>gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over
>>plane
>>as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
>>stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...
>>
>>I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might
>>work
>>if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
>>
>
> How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it?
> 99
> cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.
Maybe drill rod... that plane has a 1/16" radius cutter!
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:02:36 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> news:260120122153009327%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
>> I use Lee Valley's Mini Edge-Rounding Plane:
>> <http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182>
>
>>I use a worksharpened low angle block plane set to a very thin slice
>>and I never get a catch when using good technique even across grain.
>
>>I am curious about the edge roundover plane but not sure how you
>>sharpen it?
>
>I think that's why they list the replacement blade prominently on the page.
>;~)
>
>It's that or invest in slips of various grits. I've got slips for small
>gouges with an inside bevel that would likely work for the round over plane
>as they come to quite a thin rounded edge. As I recall they are India
>stones. My Arkansas slips are larger and would not fit...
>
>I wonder if a fine, small, needle file, or even a chain saw file, might work
>if carefully applied and the back deburred with a stone??
>
How about wrapping a small dowel with 1600 grit w/d and scary sharpen it? 99
cents a sheet at the local True Value hardware.