I'm getting to the point where the router table I'm building can
actually be used as a router table. I've got a Freud FT2000 to hang under
it, so I'm not expecting to be able to run a shop vac on the same circuit at
the same time, if you know what I mean.
I'm wondering if any of you can recommend a switch for this guy. I
looked at the one at Busy Bee Tools but can't say I really like it. For $18
it seemed kind of cheap. And ugly. I want an emergency stop button, but I
don't want to have to have the router plugged in to the front of it. That
is, I just want the switch to show. I'll unplug the router from inside the
cabinet. It's got to be able to handle the 15Amps the router will draw (is
it 18A on startup?).
I hope I'm making sense enough. Or maybe I'm going about this the wrong
way. Can you give me the benefit of your experience, and maybe point me to
a reasonable product I can get without too much trouble in Canada? Thanks.
- Owen -
"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But that Rockler switch comes to $28US + who knows what other border
charges
> + Canadian exchange.
Support free trade...Smuggle!
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
You can try the router table switch from Rockler (watch for wrap):
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=10402&objectgroup_id=237&catid=7&filter=router%20table%20switch
I use it with my 3-1/4 HP router with no problem. There are two cords
attached to the switch, one with a female plug on about a 12" cord and the
other with a male plug on about a 6' cord. Plug the router into the female
plug and the male plug goes into the wall. The 12" of cord on the female
plug allows you to 'hide' the connection. The only thing the is really
visible on the table would be the start and stop buttons on the switch. The
is the same switch Norm uses on his Deluxe Router Station. Price is about
$22.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > I'm not sure about reasonability and Canada but I've just
> > posted a picture on abpw of my An Ultimate Router Table with
> > it's $17(ish) (US) An Ultimate Router Table Switch.
>
> If you're talking about magnetic switches by any chance, my experience up
> here is that they cost an arm and a leg. I remember when I was looking for
> one for my Rockwell/Beaver contractor's saw that I'd upgraded with some
> Excalibur saw guides and fence. Cheapest price I could find (some 15 years
> ago) were running in the $200 range. Of course, that was then and
> electronics are quite a bit cheaper now.
>
>
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'm not sure about reasonability and Canada but I've just
> posted a picture on abpw of my An Ultimate Router Table with
> it's $17(ish) (US) An Ultimate Router Table Switch.
If you're talking about magnetic switches by any chance, my experience up
here is that they cost an arm and a leg. I remember when I was looking for
one for my Rockwell/Beaver contractor's saw that I'd upgraded with some
Excalibur saw guides and fence. Cheapest price I could find (some 15 years
ago) were running in the $200 range. Of course, that was then and
electronics are quite a bit cheaper now.
I bought an industrial wall switch (at Home Depot) for my router table
for less than $5. It controls a 3.25HP router. No problems.
On Sun, 16 Jan 2005 23:48:48 -0500, "Owen Lawrence"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm getting to the point where the router table I'm building can
>actually be used as a router table. I've got a Freud FT2000 to hang under
>it, so I'm not expecting to be able to run a shop vac on the same circuit at
>the same time, if you know what I mean.
>
> I'm wondering if any of you can recommend a switch for this guy. I
>looked at the one at Busy Bee Tools but can't say I really like it. For $18
>it seemed kind of cheap. And ugly. I want an emergency stop button, but I
>don't want to have to have the router plugged in to the front of it. That
>is, I just want the switch to show. I'll unplug the router from inside the
>cabinet. It's got to be able to handle the 15Amps the router will draw (is
>it 18A on startup?).
>
> I hope I'm making sense enough. Or maybe I'm going about this the wrong
>way. Can you give me the benefit of your experience, and maybe point me to
>a reasonable product I can get without too much trouble in Canada? Thanks.
>
> - Owen -
>
In article <[email protected]>, DJ Delorie <[email protected]>
wrote:
> > You can try the router table switch from Rockler (watch for wrap):
>
> Ok, one thing I like about Grizzly tools is that the stop button
> sticks out (like that switch) but the start button is RECESSED, not
> just surrounded by a guard like Rockler's. You can blindly slap the
> switch with whatever body part is available, and you WILL shut the
> tool off.
Blindly slap, where no man has slapped before.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
...no idea where that thought came from..maybe something in my tea..
In article <[email protected]>,
"Roger Shoaf" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > But that Rockler switch comes to $28US + who knows what other border
> charges
> > + Canadian exchange.
>
> Support free trade...Smuggle!
F*kkin'-A!
>
> I'm wondering if any of you can recommend a switch for this guy. I
> looked at the one at Busy Bee Tools but can't say I really like it. For
> $18
> it seemed kind of cheap. And ugly. I want an emergency stop button, but
> I
> don't want to have to have the router plugged in to the front of it. That
> is, I just want the switch to show. I'll unplug the router from inside
> the
> cabinet. It's got to be able to handle the 15Amps the router will draw
> (is
> it 18A on startup?).
>
I put my outlet on the outside because I really like unplugging the router
before changing bits; which I suppose you could still do inside, but
probably wouldn't.
I have never measured my router, but typically motors draw three times their
normal current on startup. (My refrigerator draws 8X)
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:56:25 -0800, "Roger Shoaf" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> But that Rockler switch comes to $28US + who knows what other border
>charges
>> + Canadian exchange.
>
>Support free trade...Smuggle!
I just looked at the link and it is listed at $15 "special". FYI. -- Igor
> >"Owen Lawrence" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >
> >> But that Rockler switch comes to $28US + who knows what other border
> >charges
> >> + Canadian exchange.
> >
> >Support free trade...Smuggle!
>
> I just looked at the link and it is listed at $15 "special". FYI. -- Igor
Must've just gone on sale. I wonder how long it'll stay there. Thanks for
the tip.
- Owen -
"Computer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You can try the router table switch from Rockler (watch for wrap):
>
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=10402&objectgroup_id=237&catid=7&filter=router%20table%20switch
>
> I use it with my 3-1/4 HP router with no problem. There are two cords
> attached to the switch, one with a female plug on about a 12" cord and the
> other with a male plug on about a 6' cord. Plug the router into the
female
> plug and the male plug goes into the wall. The 12" of cord on the female
> plug allows you to 'hide' the connection. The only thing the is really
> visible on the table would be the start and stop buttons on the switch.
The
> is the same switch Norm uses on his Deluxe Router Station. Price is about
> $22.
Hmm. That's not bad. It's got the guard around the on switch, too. It
would be good if I can bash it with my knee to turn it off if I have to.
Mounting it looks like it's going to be a bit of a pain, though. I want the
front surface of the switch box to be flush with the front of my cabinet. I
can do it, but it will take longer.
But that Rockler switch comes to $28US + who knows what other border charges
+ Canadian exchange. It's getting out of reach. I'll have to go see about
that industrial switch that Phisherman mentioned. Or make a run to the
surplus outlets (I'm overdue for one anyway.) I'd rather avoid having to
put in an electrical box because it will take longer and won't look as nice.
But beggars can't be choosers, I guess. Good to know there's an upgrade
path if some day I become willing to shell out for it.
Thanks for the suggestions.
- Owen -
>
>
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > > I'm not sure about reasonability and Canada but I've just
> > > posted a picture on abpw of my An Ultimate Router Table with
> > > it's $17(ish) (US) An Ultimate Router Table Switch.
> >
> > If you're talking about magnetic switches by any chance, my experience
up
> > here is that they cost an arm and a leg. I remember when I was looking
for
> > one for my Rockwell/Beaver contractor's saw that I'd upgraded with some
> > Excalibur saw guides and fence. Cheapest price I could find (some 15
years
> > ago) were running in the $200 range. Of course, that was then and
> > electronics are quite a bit cheaper now.
> >
> >
>
>
> You can try the router table switch from Rockler (watch for wrap):
Ok, one thing I like about Grizzly tools is that the stop button
sticks out (like that switch) but the start button is RECESSED, not
just surrounded by a guard like Rockler's. You can blindly slap the
switch with whatever body part is available, and you WILL shut the
tool off.