I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
System. : )
I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
"ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
Bill
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 22:02:32 -0500, Bill wrote:
> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
> System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
Plunge a stacked dado in with a radial arm saw.
I accept no resposibility for missing digits, broken RAS or
dado blades.
basilisk
On Fri, 28 Jan 2011 12:20:16 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 1/28/2011 11:38 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:
>
>> If you learn to sharpen and use your hand planes, you can get your board
>> to whatever thickness you want - faster than you might think if you
>> think the only way to can make boards thinner is with a rotary planer or
>> wide belt sander...
>
>Thank you for the suggestion. I've got some good planing projects
>coming up. I haven't tried my planes yet (picked them up at auction),
>so I'm sure they are probably due for some fettling...and maybe a cool
>dip in some of that "rust-off stuff" from Harbor Freight. it would be
>nice to demonstrate for my wife (and me!) that I can make Something! : )
Speaking of which, how are your insulating and lighting projects
coming? If you're good, you can stretch it out into years as I did
with the bow saur project last century.
--
Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think it's
> interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build "ramps" to
> raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the cut. What do
> you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
If you absolutely *have* to use a router, my first question would be, "What
radius are the curves on the ends?"
Maybe a round nose bit would work.
http://cdn.eagleamerica.com/images/uploads/v130-0202_p.jpg
Max
On 2011-01-24 22:02:32 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> said:
> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
> System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
Or, if the vertical walls are essentially to your design, try a slot
cutter. This would require a router table, I imagine.
Turn the work piece on its side. Using stop blocks on a fence to define
the beginning and end points of the cut, make your first pass. Raise
the cutter the requisite amount, make another pass. Rinse, lather, and
repeat. A router lift would make this less tedious.
This would also be a good application for a milling machine.... Time to
buy another tool, Bill!
If the vertical wall isn't important, then use a core box bit. Just
think of it as a very wide flute!
Bill wrote:
> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
> System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
Laminate it, cut the bottom bit with long straight router and laminate
the sides to it.
Bill wrote:
> On 1/25/2011 10:49 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Do you just want a pencil slot the easiest way or do you want a
>> specific shape of pencil slot? And what do you have now for tools?
>
> I actually want a pencil "tray" wide enough for 4 or 5 pencils and
> pens. It's actually going to sit in the bottom of a "keyboard stand"
> (I've been relying on 2 Amazon book boxes, sitting side-by-side, for
> over 5 years). Before I started cutting, it occurred to me I might as
> well add a pencil tray. The rest is negotiable. I was hoping that
> sharing my problem might stimulate an interesting discussion and
> result in learning new things, and I haven't been disappointed. I
> don't have many tools (I have a router but no TS), and this no doubt
> has something to do with my choosing a project which, on the surface
> at least, looks like a very simple project---basically a box laying
> on it's side! : )
As I understand it, you want a piece of wood partially hollowed out
lengthwise; the bottom is to be flat but curve upward at the ends; the sides
are to be vertical. Is that it? If so, you cannot make it with a router as
long as the plane of the router bit shank is perpendicular to the bottom
because the bit will be crosscutting which means their will be a radius
where the ends and sides meet.
As someone suggested, you could do it with a slot cutting bit if you arrange
router and wood so that the bit is ripping.
The easy way is with a RAS as someone also said. Since you have neither TS
nor RAS, the simplest thing is cut the future sides off the piece of wood,
rout out the remainder with a core box or similar bit then glue the sides
back on.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Bill wrote:
> F Murtz wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>>> System. : )
>>>
>>>
>>> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>>> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>>>
>>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>>
>>> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>>> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>>> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>>> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>>
>> Laminate it, cut the bottom bit with long straight router and laminate
>> the sides to it.
>
> Hmmm... Bevel cut the sides, huh. That's clever.
>
I am not sure what you mean but I mean, to cut the centre bit the width
of the pencils with the curves at the end and glue a flat strip either side.
In article <[email protected]>,
Max <[email protected]> wrote:
> If you absolutely *have* to use a router, my first question would be, "What
> radius are the curves on the ends?"
> Maybe a round nose bit would work.
> http://cdn.eagleamerica.com/images/uploads/v130-0202_p.jpg
That's what I used when routing groves in a piece of MDF to accommodate my
milling cutters.
A single flat piece of MDF which forms a tray, which slides into the
milling machine stand like a draw. Grooves were basically semi-circular in
section though in some cases, for the larger diameter cutters I had to
make two passes to increase the width.
--
Stuart Winsor
Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
On Jan 24, 7:02=A0pm, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. =A0Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem.
Rout the pocket, then chisel along the pencil axis to form the slope,
or gouge across the pencil axis. Either way, it helps to have a good
heavy table and vise.
Finish with sandpaper (the bottom won't be esthetic straight from
the router).
On 1/27/2011 8:49 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> I put up two SketchUp pictures of the keyboard tray I designed
> on my web site in case anyone wants to see where the pencil holder ended up.
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I plan to use yellow poplar, a wood I basically like the natural appearance of. Is there a simple finish I might consider, compared to just leave it unfinished? I don't wish to
> polyurethane it to
> a shiny finish.
>
> Thank you again for the help I received regarding the implementation of the pencil holder feature.
>
> Bill
Two comments:
1) Your previous sketches have a vertical edge at the front of the pencil slot.
I cannot tell if that is still true in your current version. If so then it would
be easier to get your pencils out of the slot if the edge had a slope to it.
2) I think that your keyboard shelf design will result in the keyboard being
too high. Obviously you will want your legs to fit under the shelf. So the
keyboard will have to be several inches above your legs. So you will have to
have your arms bent upward at your elbows instead of having your fore arms
nearly level.
Dan
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> Ecnerwal wrote:
> > In article<[email protected]>, Bill<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
> >
> >> The pencil holder shown below is a feature in something I'm designing.
> >> The sides are basically vertical and the ends curve upward (gracefully).
> >> Just curious about the way a craftsman would approaches this (with a router).
> >
> > By saying, "Stick to designing, don't tell me what tools to use,
> > ignorant would-be designer." ...while on his/her way out the door.
> >
> > The radius on the end is the radius of the sawblade or shaper cutter
> > used to cut the slot. Go back before circular saws and you'll find these
> > holes carved in various ways suitable for carving. You're copying a
> > detail that's made for a particular sort of spinny round tool, but you
> > want to cut it with a different spinny round tool - not well thought
> > out.
>
> You make some very good points. That's why I posed the question--so
> that I might learn the craftsman's point of view. I could actually see
> some of the issues--even without the cut. If I didn't, I would not have
> brought it up. With a slight modification, I thought I might be able to
> do a passable job on the ends with a chisel, maybe not. I'm quite sure
> that the problem of cutting a pencil holder still has something left to
> teach me. A round-nosed bit, as has been suggested, would probably yield
> acceptable results for my application, but I'll keep thinking on it.
> Anything worth doing is worth doing well. :)
Do you just want a pencil slot the easiest way or do you want a specific
shape of pencil slot? And what do you have now for tools?
The easy way to get the cut you described, if a 5 inch radius is OK on
the ends, would be a radial arm saw and a dado set. Getting it with a
router and having it look good would be a pain. There's probably a way
to do it on a table saw safely, but I can't think of a setup that
doesn't scare the crap out of me.
>
> Bill
>
>
> Try your ramps. Make the cut - don't waste good lumber on it. See
> > the problems for yourself. Become educated.
> >
> > Even programming a CNC router (which is about as close as you'll come on
> > a router to this) is not going to leave a decent finish cutting this
> > from the flat surface with that edge detail (long edges vertical).
> > Biscuit bit might give the radius on a router, but you've got a lot of
> > stick-out to the edge of the piece, so it will make a crappy cut even if
> > you can stick it out that far. Close to the edge of the piece you might
> > be able to use a biscuit bit for this effect.
> >
> > You can cut perfectly nice pencil holders with a router, but this won't
> > be the shape they come out (or even a shape they can come out, other
> > than "crudely approximated if you have a CNC router, and even then the
> > corners won't look right due to bit radius.")
> >
In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
> The pencil holder shown below is a feature in something I'm designing.
> The sides are basically vertical and the ends curve upward (gracefully).
> Just curious about the way a craftsman would approaches this (with a router).
By saying, "Stick to designing, don't tell me what tools to use,
ignorant would-be designer." ...while on his/her way out the door.
The radius on the end is the radius of the sawblade or shaper cutter
used to cut the slot. Go back before circular saws and you'll find these
holes carved in various ways suitable for carving. You're copying a
detail that's made for a particular sort of spinny round tool, but you
want to cut it with a different spinny round tool - not well thought
out. Try your ramps. Make the cut - don't waste good lumber on it. See
the problems for yourself. Become educated.
Even programming a CNC router (which is about as close as you'll come on
a router to this) is not going to leave a decent finish cutting this
from the flat surface with that edge detail (long edges vertical).
Biscuit bit might give the radius on a router, but you've got a lot of
stick-out to the edge of the piece, so it will make a crappy cut even if
you can stick it out that far. Close to the edge of the piece you might
be able to use a biscuit bit for this effect.
You can cut perfectly nice pencil holders with a router, but this won't
be the shape they come out (or even a shape they can come out, other
than "crudely approximated if you have a CNC router, and even then the
corners won't look right due to bit radius.")
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
In article <[email protected]>,
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> that this puts it in a good location. If I could locate yellow poplar
> thinner than 3/4" it may help weight-wise (I didn't locate it online).
> My MS Natural keyboard provides some wrist support (not shown in picture).
>
> Thank you for your suggestions regarding implementation. They are all
> good, but I don't have a router table or even a TS yet. I do have a
> circular saw and a router--and some hand planes!
If you learn to sharpen and use your hand planes, you can get your board
to whatever thickness you want - faster than you might think if you
think the only way to can make boards thinner is with a rotary planer or
wide belt sander...
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
On 1/25/2011 12:32 PM, Bill wrote:
> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
> System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
Cut the bottom shelf into three pieces ,the pencil slot can be made by
making a pattern, from some mdf or ply , then use a straight pattern bit
and a router table ,rout the shape of the bottom of the pencil tray with
the material on it's edge ,then rip it to width and edge glue the three
pieces together .If the tray is wider than the length of the bit ,then
make a couple and edge glue them together.
I would use a thicker piece of material for the tray and rout it into
one face , then rip that face off the bigger piece with the table saw,
trim to the width you require .
The other way is to make a jig ( see link below ) to hold a piece of
material on it's edge , and then make a female template and use a
template guide to follow the template ,Use apiece of material larger
than you need and trim it to size after on the table saw.
Actually your key board box is not a good design IMHO as you have no
wrist support ,it looks to be way too high off the desk top ,I would
imagine that you would get very tired in the hands and wrists if you
spent a lot of time typing with that setup.
I would have the keyboard below on a sliding tray and the pencil tray on
the top shelf.
Unless this is designed to sit across your lap and you are not using a
desk at all.
Check out this link for other ways to use a router and achieve excellent
results .
http://routingwithtomodonnell.yolasite.com/
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
[email protected]
--
--
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
> cut. =A0What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
This might work with ramps. There was a thread a while back when a guy
was doing flutes and I recommended feathering the ends by using ramps
and he did a big write-up on it. Same technique would probably work.
Depending on how big this piece is and how important, I would buy a
dedicated cutter for the router that is the righ width (or less) and
plung cut it face in.
I was thinking of a two-part sled affair (I have no CNC access) with
the (female) "base" part shaped like the pencil groove you want to
end up with ( with a slot to allow the bit to reach the work) and a
shorter, similarly-shaped (male) piece fixed to the router base. I
thought you could slide the router to each end where it would raise up
and out of the work.
But it would tilt as it hit the "ramp" at either end and then level as
it came out of the work. It might not make a difference and would, as
envisioned, employ a simple quarter-inch spiral (?) straight bit that
cut bottom and sides.
But, If I had a CNC router, I would think I could put the same bit in
the machine and cut your pencil tray quite easily
On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 12:35:52 -0500, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 1/25/2011 10:49 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>
>> Do you just want a pencil slot the easiest way or do you want a specific
>> shape of pencil slot? And what do you have now for tools?
>
>I actually want a pencil "tray" wide enough for 4 or 5 pencils and pens.
>It's actually going to sit in the bottom of a "keyboard stand" (I've
>been relying on 2 Amazon book boxes, sitting side-by-side, for over 5
>years). Before I started cutting, it occurred to me I might as well add
>a pencil tray. The rest is negotiable. I was hoping that sharing my
>problem might stimulate an interesting discussion and result in learning
>new things, and I haven't been disappointed. I don't have many tools
>(I have a router but no TS), and this no doubt has something to do with
>my choosing a project which, on the surface at least, looks like a very
>simple project---basically a box laying on it's side! : )
Skew the piece and cut a cove on the table saw, Bill.
http://woodgears.ca/cove/index.html
--
If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying?
If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
-- Shantideva
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 22:02:32 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>System. : )
>
>
>I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
>http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
>I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>"ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
>Bill
A tray bit would work but with a rounded profile. Tray bit, then
finish with a straight bit on the long sides.
-Zz
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>System. : )
>
>
> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think it's
> interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build "ramps" to
> raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the cut. What do
> you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
> Bill
I know you said router but that seems like a lot of work. If you have a
band saw.....
In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>System. : )
>
>
>I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>
>http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
>I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>"ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>
>Bill
Core-box bit.
--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Ecnerwal wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, Bill<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
>> The pencil holder shown below is a feature in something I'm designing.
>> The sides are basically vertical and the ends curve upward (gracefully).
>> Just curious about the way a craftsman would approaches this (with a router).
>
> By saying, "Stick to designing, don't tell me what tools to use,
> ignorant would-be designer." ...while on his/her way out the door.
>
> The radius on the end is the radius of the sawblade or shaper cutter
> used to cut the slot. Go back before circular saws and you'll find these
> holes carved in various ways suitable for carving. You're copying a
> detail that's made for a particular sort of spinny round tool, but you
> want to cut it with a different spinny round tool - not well thought
> out.
You make some very good points. That's why I posed the question--so
that I might learn the craftsman's point of view. I could actually see
some of the issues--even without the cut. If I didn't, I would not have
brought it up. With a slight modification, I thought I might be able to
do a passable job on the ends with a chisel, maybe not. I'm quite sure
that the problem of cutting a pencil holder still has something left to
teach me. A round-nosed bit, as has been suggested, would probably yield
acceptable results for my application, but I'll keep thinking on it.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. :)
Bill
Try your ramps. Make the cut - don't waste good lumber on it. See
> the problems for yourself. Become educated.
>
> Even programming a CNC router (which is about as close as you'll come on
> a router to this) is not going to leave a decent finish cutting this
> from the flat surface with that edge detail (long edges vertical).
> Biscuit bit might give the radius on a router, but you've got a lot of
> stick-out to the edge of the piece, so it will make a crappy cut even if
> you can stick it out that far. Close to the edge of the piece you might
> be able to use a biscuit bit for this effect.
>
> You can cut perfectly nice pencil holders with a router, but this won't
> be the shape they come out (or even a shape they can come out, other
> than "crudely approximated if you have a CNC router, and even then the
> corners won't look right due to bit radius.")
>
Steve wrote:
> On 2011-01-24 22:02:32 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> said:
>
>> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>> System. : )
>>
>>
>> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>>
>> Bill
> This would also be a good application for a milling machine.... Time to
> buy another tool, Bill!
>
> If the vertical wall isn't important, then use a core box bit. Just
> think of it as a very wide flute!
Yep, I was just reading on it, and the "core box bit" seems to be the
right bit to use. Thanks!
Bill
On 1/25/2011 10:49 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> Do you just want a pencil slot the easiest way or do you want a specific
> shape of pencil slot? And what do you have now for tools?
I actually want a pencil "tray" wide enough for 4 or 5 pencils and pens.
It's actually going to sit in the bottom of a "keyboard stand" (I've
been relying on 2 Amazon book boxes, sitting side-by-side, for over 5
years). Before I started cutting, it occurred to me I might as well add
a pencil tray. The rest is negotiable. I was hoping that sharing my
problem might stimulate an interesting discussion and result in learning
new things, and I haven't been disappointed. I don't have many tools
(I have a router but no TS), and this no doubt has something to do with
my choosing a project which, on the surface at least, looks like a very
simple project---basically a box laying on it's side! : )
Bill
F Murtz wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>> System. : )
>>
>>
>> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> Laminate it, cut the bottom bit with long straight router and laminate
> the sides to it.
Hmmm... Bevel cut the sides, huh. That's clever.
Another approach: Rip the piece along a line that coincides with
one of the vertical walls of the pencil holder slot. Then use a long straight
bit, with the router held horizontally and the bit at right angle to the
rip. Afterwards, glue the 2 pieces back together.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Larry W wrote:
> Another approach: Rip the piece along a line that coincides with
> one of the vertical walls of the pencil holder slot. Then use a long straight
> bit, with the router held horizontally and the bit at right angle to the
> rip. Afterwards, glue the 2 pieces back together.
>
>
Beautiful idea! I just happen to have a 2" plunge router bit too.
Several other excellent ideas proposed too, but yours seems very
consistent with the original problem spec. I'll either do this or go
with the core box bit (or maybe try both eventually...)
Thank you,
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 12:35:52 -0500, Bill<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 1/25/2011 10:49 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>
>>> Do you just want a pencil slot the easiest way or do you want a specific
>>> shape of pencil slot? And what do you have now for tools?
>>
>> I actually want a pencil "tray" wide enough for 4 or 5 pencils and pens.
>> It's actually going to sit in the bottom of a "keyboard stand" (I've
>> been relying on 2 Amazon book boxes, sitting side-by-side, for over 5
>> years). Before I started cutting, it occurred to me I might as well add
>> a pencil tray. The rest is negotiable. I was hoping that sharing my
>> problem might stimulate an interesting discussion and result in learning
>> new things, and I haven't been disappointed. I don't have many tools
>> (I have a router but no TS), and this no doubt has something to do with
>> my choosing a project which, on the surface at least, looks like a very
>> simple project---basically a box laying on it's side! : )
>
> Skew the piece and cut a cove on the table saw, Bill.
> http://woodgears.ca/cove/index.html
I go through too many pencils, copying down the things you guys write,
for that to suffice. I'd had to install my pencil sharpener inside... : )
Bill
>
> --
> If you can solve your problem, then what is the need of worrying?
> If you cannot solve it, then what is the use of worrying?
> -- Shantideva
I put up two SketchUp pictures of the keyboard tray I designed
on my web site in case anyone wants to see where the pencil holder ended up.
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
I plan to use yellow poplar, a wood I basically like the natural
appearance of. Is there a simple finish I might consider, compared to
just leave it unfinished? I don't wish to polyurethane it to
a shiny finish.
Thank you again for the help I received regarding the implementation of
the pencil holder feature.
Bill
Dan Coby wrote:
> On 1/27/2011 8:49 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> I put up two SketchUp pictures of the keyboard tray I designed
>> on my web site in case anyone wants to see where the pencil holder
>> ended up.
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> I plan to use yellow poplar, a wood I basically like the natural
>> appearance of. Is there a simple finish I might consider, compared to
>> just leave it unfinished? I don't wish to
>> polyurethane it to
>> a shiny finish.
>>
>> Thank you again for the help I received regarding the implementation
>> of the pencil holder feature.
>>
>> Bill
>
> Two comments:
>
> 1) Your previous sketches have a vertical edge at the front of the
> pencil slot.
> I cannot tell if that is still true in your current version. If so then
> it would
> be easier to get your pencils out of the slot if the edge had a slope to
> it.
You are right (about the previous version and this version being the
same). The "track" is 3/8" deep. The way I"m going, I may be doing some
chiseling along that front edge--depends on the way the tip of my router
bit leaves that front edge. I haven't used my router before so this
feature will probably be interesting. If history is any indication, I
should probably buy enough wood to do that cut twice...
: )
>
> 2) I think that your keyboard shelf design will result in the keyboard
> being
> too high. Obviously you will want your legs to fit under the shelf. So the
> keyboard will have to be several inches above your legs. So you will
> have to
> have your arms bent upward at your elbows instead of having your fore arms
> nearly level.
The configuration I described works with respect to me and my desk. The
desk's keyboard holder is a little low for me, but the tray will make it
work okay. I'm currently using propped up cardboard boxes yielding
identical keyboard placement so I know what I'm getting, fit-wise.
Without the props, my hands are so low I get a sore neck.
Thank you for your interest!
Bill
>
>
> Dan
On 1/28/2011 7:35 AM, Kevin(Bluey) wrote:
> On 1/25/2011 12:32 PM, Bill wrote:
>> I needed to take a fun break from worrying about the Federal Reserve
>> System. : )
>>
>>
>> I placed a drawing of a pencil holder (feature) of something I am
>> designing. Please take a look on my web site if you care to:
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> I am curious how the "craftman" might approach this problem. I think
>> it's interesting. Intuitively, it seems to me that one would build
>> "ramps" to raise the router bit away from the wood near the end of the
>> cut. What do you think (maybe you can you refer me to an example)?
>>
>> Bill
>
>
> Cut the bottom shelf into three pieces ,the pencil slot can be made by
> making a pattern, from some mdf or ply , then use a straight pattern bit
> and a router table ,rout the shape of the bottom of the pencil tray with
> the material on it's edge ,then rip it to width and edge glue the three
> pieces together .If the tray is wider than the length of the bit ,then
> make a couple and edge glue them together.
> I would use a thicker piece of material for the tray and rout it into
> one face , then rip that face off the bigger piece with the table saw,
> trim to the width you require .
>
> The other way is to make a jig ( see link below ) to hold a piece of
> material on it's edge , and then make a female template and use a
> template guide to follow the template ,Use apiece of material larger
> than you need and trim it to size after on the table saw.
>
> Actually your key board box is not a good design IMHO as you have no
> wrist support ,it looks to be way too high off the desk top ,I would
> imagine that you would get very tired in the hands and wrists if you
> spent a lot of time typing with that setup.
> I would have the keyboard below on a sliding tray and the pencil tray on
> the top shelf.
> Unless this is designed to sit across your lap and you are not using a
> desk at all.
Actually, this will sit on the sliding tray. It is suitably low for me
that this puts it in a good location. If I could locate yellow poplar
thinner than 3/4" it may help weight-wise (I didn't locate it online).
My MS Natural keyboard provides some wrist support (not shown in picture).
Thank you for your suggestions regarding implementation. They are all
good, but I don't have a router table or even a TS yet. I do have a
circular saw and a router--and some hand planes!
Thanks!
Bill
>
> Check out this link for other ways to use a router and achieve excellent
> results .
> http://routingwithtomodonnell.yolasite.com/
On 1/28/2011 11:38 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:
> If you learn to sharpen and use your hand planes, you can get your board
> to whatever thickness you want - faster than you might think if you
> think the only way to can make boards thinner is with a rotary planer or
> wide belt sander...
Thank you for the suggestion. I've got some good planing projects
coming up. I haven't tried my planes yet (picked them up at auction),
so I'm sure they are probably due for some fettling...and maybe a cool
dip in some of that "rust-off stuff" from Harbor Freight. it would be
nice to demonstrate for my wife (and me!) that I can make Something! : )
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Speaking of which, how are your insulating and lighting projects
> coming? If you're good, you can stretch it out into years as I did
> with the bow saur project last century.
Larry, I assure you that no project has been forgotten (you forgot to
mention the DP baseboard one). Actually, I don't have an insulation
project on the books now. I did insulate the walls and you added the
ceiling without me giving the go-ahead. I am eager to start playing
with the drywall mud again. I just need temps above 55F. As it is, we
keep dipping into the single digits. I think I'll be able to wrap-up all
the projects I've started by this summer--though I'm sure to start new
ones before then...
What's a bow saur? Did you make a bow saw?
Bill
>
> --
> Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come
> alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs
> is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman