I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
a scraper.)
I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
used. Any Ideas?
Dave
--
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.
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Teamcasa wrote:
> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
> a scraper.)
>
> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>
> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
> used. Any Ideas?
Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
the oil-based.
R
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Teamcasa wrote:
>> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
>> the
>> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
>> and
>> a scraper.)
>>
>> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
>> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>>
>> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they
>> originally
>> used. Any Ideas?
>
> Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
> water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
> the oil-based.
>
> R
>
Is this your experience with the durability factor.
Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
Dave
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"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
>glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
>a scraper.)
>
> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>
> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
> used. Any Ideas?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held its ground.
>
>
Let me add that I don't want the plastic look of Poly. I doubt the original
finish was polyurethane either. Where I live there are quite a few
Craftsman style homes with refinishd floors. The ones done with
polyurethane look like a plastic sheet over the nice wood. I really like
the warm look of the floors that have the original finish, whatever it was.
Dave
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Warren Weber wrote:
>
> Have you considered an oil finish? I refinished a oak table (use every day)
> with oil 36 years ago. It has done well. Table is washed after meals. Once
> in a while we reoil it. I used a mixture of 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1
> part mineral spirts, and 1 part vinegar. Vinegar cuts down the odor and
> emulsifies the mix. Lets the beauty of the wood show. Saturate the wood and
> in about 30 minutes wipe off all that has not soaked in. WW
Penetrating finishes, like linseed oil, may look nice really nice on
furniture, but they are WAY too thin for proper protection on a floor,
especially a hall floor with a bathroom at one end (= high traffic).
Oil finishes also provide very little resistance to water penetration
so spilling water on the floor or even walking across it with wet feet
could stain or damage it. Mopping would be catestrophic.
Evaporative finishes, such as lacquer or shellac, provide more
protection than a penetrating oil, but still far too little for a
high-traffic floor. Shellac has poor resistance to heat, water, and
alcohol, and is not nearly as wear-resistant as polyurethane. Shellac
forms a finish by essentially "drying out". The solvent (alcohol)
evaporates leaving behind a dense layer of shellac particles. There is
no chemical bond holding the particles together so the finish is not
very wear resistant, and subsequent exposure to alcohol will
re-dissolve the finish.
A reactive finish, such as polyurethane or various other varnishes, is
what you'll need on a floor. In this case, the finish is not formed by
simply evaporating the solvent. Rather, as the solvent evaporates, the
varnish molecules react with oxygen and crosslink to each other,
forming a new material which is impervious to the original solvent.
Because the molecules are bonded chemically, not just physically, the
resulting finish is MUCH more wear-resistant than evaporative finishes.
Water-based polyurethane is a little different than the reactive finish
described above, but you can think of it as essentially the same. One
advantage over oil-based poly is that the solvent content is much
lower, so the fumes are weaker and safer. Another advantage is that
drying time (not to be confused with curing time) is a lot faster than
most oil-based varnishes, but you'll still need to wait several hours
between coats and several days after the final coat before allowing
heavy traffic. Another advantage (possibly, depending on what you
want) is that the water-based poly is clearer in color and doesn't
amber over time.
One big disadvantage to keep in mind with the water-based stuff is that
it will raise the grain on your flooring. If you're looking to get a
perfectly smooth finish, you'll have to either wet the floor ahead of
time and sand off the raised grain or sand with fine-grit sandpaper
after the first coat or two.
Good luck.
Josh
Thank you all for your answers. Poly it is.
I guess it will be the half and half in combination with a bridge.
Dave
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>"CW"
> Poly the floor and have your family wear their anti gravity boots for a
> couple days. :)
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski"
>> Options:
>> Put a coffee can in each bedroom then paint the family in for the night
>> Paint one side of the hallway, then the other side the next day, leaving
>> a
>> path half the width of each door
>> Paint the floor, take the family away for a weekend at some posh resort
>>
Well - that's the answer! I'll check eBay for the boots. If they are not
available, I'll go with Ed's last option.
Dave
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Use Fuhr 260. Can be walked on in a couple of hours, just don't wear your work
boots for a few days or weeks. JG
Teamcasa wrote:
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Teamcasa wrote:
> >> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
> >> the
> >> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
> >> and
> >> a scraper.)
> >>
> >> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
> >> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
> >> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
> >> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
> >>
> >> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they
> >> originally
> >> used. Any Ideas?
> >
> > Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
> > water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
> > the oil-based.
> >
> > R
> >
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
>
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"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Teamcasa wrote:
>> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
>> the
>> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
>> and
>> a scraper.)
>>
>> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
>> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
> Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
> water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
> the oil-based.
>
Doesn't like the alkali stuff you put in the water for floor-washing too
much either. Murphy's oil soap will serve, though.
Teamcasa wrote:
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Teamcasa wrote:
>>> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
>>> the
>>> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
>>> and
>>> a scraper.)
>>>
>>> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
>>> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>>> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>>> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>>>
>>> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they
>>> originally
>>> used. Any Ideas?
>> Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
>> water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
>> the oil-based.
>>
>> R
>>
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
> ----------------------------------------------------------
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There is water based poly that has a short dry time. Shop around. Go to
a good paint store and ask there. Don't go to Lowes or Home Deport for
advice. Shellac is pretty far from an ideal choice for a floor. In can
be used but far from poly in terms of durability. There is a poly that
will dry as fast as Shellac but I just cant remember the name of the
product I used. I bought mine where I rented a floor sander. Duraweld or
some such thing (or I could be completely foggy on the brand).
This is not a new problem. Most "old timers" faced the same predicament many
years ago. We simply "varnished" or painted approximately one-half of the
floor, being careful to provide a decent pathway to the "john". After
several days, do the rest of the floor. Of course, you will always have the
possibility of someone stepping on the outermost end. Therefore, we always
made our "one-half" more like 60 to 70 percent. Been there, done that.
John
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
>
What we've done in these situations (also with tiling floors) is to build a
bridge. A short lentgh of 4x2 either end of the hallway, a 10x2 over the top
should get you from A to B and you can even build an off ramp or two.
If you don't like high gloss poly, you can get satin, you know; you can even
get matte but I think that's not recommended for floors.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
In article <[email protected]>,
Teamcasa <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>Is this your experience with the durability factor.
>Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
>divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
>Dave
Just a thought, I had to wait until my daughter was about 7 or 8,
but when I painted the stairs at our home, I ran a line of masking
tape right down the middle from top to bottom, trained my family to
stay to one side of the tape, put a gate accross the bottom to keep
the dog & cats off them, then painted one side at a time.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Teamcasa wrote:
>
> Let me add that I don't want the plastic look of Poly. I doubt the original
> finish was polyurethane either. Where I live there are quite a few
> Craftsman style homes with refinishd floors. The ones done with
> polyurethane look like a plastic sheet over the nice wood. I really like
> the warm look of the floors that have the original finish, whatever it was.
>
> Dave
Applied correctly, poly doesn't look "plastic".
Dave
RicodJour wrote:
> Teamcasa wrote:
>
>>I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
>>glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
>>a scraper.)
>>
>>I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
>>the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>>The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>>regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>>
>>The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
>>used. Any Ideas?
>
>
> Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
> water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
> the oil-based.
>
> R
>
I agree...and the oil based will start out more amber than the WB, as
well as ambering over time.
Dave
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Teamcasa wrote:
>>> I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
>>> the
>>> glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
>>> and
>>> a scraper.)
>>>
>>> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where
>>> on
>>> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>>> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>>> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>>>
>>> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they
>>> originally
>>> used. Any Ideas?
>>
>> Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
>> water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
>> the oil-based.
>>
>> R
>>
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
Sounds like a job for.....PORTA POTTY!
Y'can't have both. The poly will be worth the trouble.
vic
Teamcasa wrote:
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Teamcasa wrote:
>>
>>>I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove
>>>the
>>>glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun
>>>and
>>>a scraper.)
>>>
>>>I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
>>>the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
>>>The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
>>>regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>>>
>>>The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they
>>>originally
>>>used. Any Ideas?
>>
>>Shellac will yellow, isn't as durable as poly and it doesn't like
>>water. Go with the poly. If you want it to turn amber over time, use
>>the oil-based.
>>
>>R
>>
>
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Stay in a motel/hotel for a couple of days then.
dave
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
>glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
>a scraper.)
>
> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>
> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
> used. Any Ideas?
>
> Dave
>
>
Not even close, use the poly. I love shellac but it is not the best choice
for a floor. It is not as protective or durable.
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to refinish a hall that has Oak flooring. (I was able to remove the
>glued down vinyl that was put on top of the Oak with help of a heat gun and
>a scraper.)
>
> I have sanded the floor and went to buy the finish. Two choices where on
> the shelve. Polyurethane, both types water and oil based and Shellac.
> The Polys advertise fast drying but stipulate to wait 24-48 hours before
> regular use. The Shellac seems to have a 4 hour dry time.
>
> The house was built in the early 50's and I am unsure what they originally
> used. Any Ideas?
>
> Dave
Have you considered an oil finish? I refinished a oak table (use every day)
with oil 36 years ago. It has done well. Table is washed after meals. Once
in a while we reoil it. I used a mixture of 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1
part mineral spirts, and 1 part vinegar. Vinegar cuts down the odor and
emulsifies the mix. Lets the beauty of the wood show. Saturate the wood and
in about 30 minutes wipe off all that has not soaked in. WW
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway. It
> divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
>
> Dave
Options:
Put a coffee can in each bedroom then paint the family in for the night
Paint one side of the hallway, then the other side the next day, leaving a
path half the width of each door
Paint the floor, take the family away for a weekend at some posh resort
Poly the floor and have your family wear their anti gravity boots for a
couple days. :)
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:x8T_f.3798$ee6.2133@trndny01...
>
> "Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > Is this your experience with the durability factor.
> > Drying time for the Poly? I can't be without the use of the hallway.
It
> > divides the bedrooms from the bathrooms~~
> >
> > Dave
>
> Options:
> Put a coffee can in each bedroom then paint the family in for the night
> Paint one side of the hallway, then the other side the next day, leaving a
> path half the width of each door
> Paint the floor, take the family away for a weekend at some posh resort
>
>
No wrote:
http://www.usenet.com
>
> There is water based poly that has a short dry time. Shop around. Go to
> a good paint store and ask there. Don't go to Lowes or Home Deport for
> advice. Shellac is pretty far from an ideal choice for a floor. In can
> be used but far from poly in terms of durability. There is a poly that
> will dry as fast as Shellac but I just cant remember the name of the
> product I used. I bought mine where I rented a floor sander. Duraweld or
> some such thing (or I could be completely foggy on the brand).
Drying time and curing time are two different creatures. Just because
the surface is dry, does not mean it's ready for foot traffic.
Dave