As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
warping?)
Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
Thank you!
Bill
Bill wrote:
> G. Ross wrote:
>
>> While you're beautifying the door, a kick panel between the threshold
>> and top step might be nice, finished with a hard finish.
>>
>
> Yes, thank you for mentioning it!
>
> There is no end, is there? : )
>
Nope.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Wed, 15 Aug 2012 16:18:57 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>dpb wrote:
>> On 8/15/2012 11:30 AM, Bill wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
>>> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
>>
>> The moulding around the door is brick mould whereas somebody just stuck
>> a piece of interior sash trim along the bottom.
>>
>> You can buy short section of brick mould to match the rest and use that
>> if want although I'd look at what's below the threshold itself.
>
>Yes, thank you for informing me I had "brick mould"! I just returned
>from Big Orange, with a matching piece, already primed, for $1.32/ft.
>They even entrusted me with a miter saw to cut as much as I wanted!
>
>I will still do the inspection of the threshold, but since it's been
>solid for the 3 years I've used it, I don't anticipate finding any
>problems with it.
>
>Thank you for teaching me a little more about doors! Besides this one,
>I'm still happy about the one I learned to shim earlier this summer
>(we'll find out if it's "fixed" when it gets cold)! : )
I just fixed some brick mould today. The client had me remove a
perfectly good security door, so I drilled and doweled the holes it
left. Then I installed the nice $200 glassed screen door he bought to
replace it. It's a 3/4 light.
He wanted me to haul off the security door, so I told him I wanted to
keep it. He gave me keys for it, even, so I don't have to replace the
locks.
--
Make awkward sexual advances, not war.
Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>> ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not
>> much.
>
> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge
> of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>
...and, your concern is?...
Actually, that would be a good thing.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant
> in the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house
> and the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning
> how to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even
> though I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to
> size, 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom
> and the ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it
> in place. I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under
> joint compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether
> the sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
Well - the first thing you should do is yank that skanky thing off. I
agree - the original builder should be shot for that. Consdier - or at
least, take a look at a simply piece of 1x4 or 1x6 - cut to the right
doggoned length, as an alternative. Cut one up and put it up there to take
a look. Maybe something else, but you won't know until you put a piece up
there to see.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 8/14/2012 2:02 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle
>>>> the ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but
>>>> not much.
>>>
>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the
>>> edge of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Is your molding thicker than 3/4"? Have you actually measured it?
>
> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1"
> board. The 2nd picture shows that it really is "super wide":
>
Bill - that is ranch moulding. It's not even freakin' brick moulding.
Measure the damned thing and you will find it to be just under 3/4". You've
got a gap behind it that adds to the measurement. You need to learn how to
read your tape measure Bill.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
> What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my design=
(because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that at the ti=
me (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan"). I suspect w=
ood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you think? Drywall compo=
und? Start over? : ) Bill
Any reasonable filler that's easy to work. Drywall compound will work, at =
least for a while. If it ever fell out, it would be easy to replace. Famo=
wood filler comes to mind, also.
I had wondered if there was something preventing the old molding from fitti=
ng flush to the wall. I would have guessed extruded caulking, dried before=
the molding was installed. That's one reason, though not mentioned, why I=
suggested looking under the threshold.
Sonny
On 8/14/2012 2:02 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the ends
>> so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
>
> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge of
> the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>
>
>
>> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
>
Is your molding thicker than 3/4"? Have you actually measured it?
'Bill[_37_ Wrote:
> ;2909327']As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I
> installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
>
> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
>
> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
>
> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
>
> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
>
> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bill
-- hey Bill I suggest that you consult or ask tips to some great
interior designers in town to help you with the pimping.
--
Pown1943
On 8/13/2012 10:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bill
I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the ends
so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
On 8/14/2012 4:35 PM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>>> ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not
>>>> much.
>>>
>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge
>>> of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>
>>
>> ...and, your concern is?...
>>
>> Actually, that would be a good thing.
>>
>
> I'll look around and observe whether I see any configured that way.
> A threshold plate (my word) sticking out just doen't seem right to me yet.
>
That's normal... you want it to drip off and not run back under to the wood.
On 8/13/2012 11:39 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bill
Take it off, put up a piece of solid pine, it will act as a kick panel.
Paint it or leave it raw. 3/4 inch pine will leave only 1/4" overhanging.
Bill wrote:
>
> I appreciate your comment and the time and effort you took to make it.
> But I think a 1" board will look better under the side moldings. As
> it is, I may hand plane them 1/4" near the bottom for an nicer fit (it
> would only take seconds).
>
Well - beauty is in the eye of the beholder and since neither alternative is
going to result in anything that is either stronger or weaker, or better, or
worse, then go with your eye as I said in an earlier post. Just know - so
you can make your decision in an informed way, that neither the 1x or the
full 1" is going to result in any real difference - beyond what you prefer.
So - go with what you like.
> This thread did reinforce for me that that piece of molding isn't
> supposed to be bearing any load--which is not completely obvious when
> you consider where it is located! More of the story could be revealed
> when I remove the piece that is there...
Well... not completely true Bill. That piece of trim will carry some load,
but the most of the threshold should be carried by the floor and not by the
moulding. It only stands to reason that if 1 - 1 1/2 inches of threshold is
hanging out there, some amount of load is going to be carried by the
underlying trim moulding.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>>> ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not
>>>> much.
>>>
>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the
>>> edge of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>
>>
>> ...and, your concern is?...
>>
>> Actually, that would be a good thing.
>>
>
> I'll look around and observe whether I see any configured that way.
> A threshold plate (my word) sticking out just doen't seem right to me
> yet.
If it helps Bill, it is common to leave a little reveal on pieces like this.
Sort of an achitectural statement. From a structural standpoint, that 1/4"
will not matter a whit. A little hold back like that will also help water
drip off the edge of the threshold and not run down the face of the board
underneath - a big step to preventing rot. Think of it as a drip edge.
You're liable to find everything imaginable as you look around, so don't
feel reluctant to go with your own eye.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Once you take that trim off, look under the threshold to see if there
is proper support, under the inner body of threshold, itself, and
sufficiently all along its length. If need be, shim the threshold,
snuggly. You don't want to rely on the new trim for the threshold's
support, though it will be on that front edge.
Sonny
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
>> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant
>> in the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
>> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house
>> and the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>>
>> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning
>> how to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even
>> though I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>>
>> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to
>> size, 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom
>> and the ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it
>> in place. I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under
>> joint compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether
>> the sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
>> warping?)
>>
>> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>
> Well - the first thing you should do is yank that skanky thing off. I
> agree - the original builder should be shot for that. Consdier - or at
> least, take a look at a simply piece of 1x4 or 1x6 - cut to the right
> doggoned length, as an alternative.
It seems like I need a 4/4 x 4 or 4/4 x3, a board which is actually 1"
thick. I will see if I can find one without troubling a lumberyard for
one piece.
Cut one up and put it up there to take
> a look. Maybe something else, but you won't know until you put a piece up
> there to see.
>
Sonny wrote:
> Once you take that trim off, look under the threshold to see if there
> is proper support, under the inner body of threshold, itself, and
> sufficiently all along its length. If need be, shim the threshold,
> snuggly. You don't want to rely on the new trim for the threshold's
> support, though it will be on that front edge.
>
> Sonny
>
Thank you for your post! I observed the "don't want" part, but didn't
know what to do about it. Your post may help explain why it was replaced.
Bill
Leon wrote:
> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the ends
> so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge of
the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>> ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not
>>> much.
>>
>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge
>> of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>
>
> ...and, your concern is?...
>
> Actually, that would be a good thing.
>
I'll look around and observe whether I see any configured that way.
A threshold plate (my word) sticking out just doen't seem right to me yet.
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Leon wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>>>> ends so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not
>>>>> much.
>>>>
>>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the
>>>> edge of the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>>
>>>
>>> ...and, your concern is?...
>>>
>>> Actually, that would be a good thing.
>>>
>>
>> I'll look around and observe whether I see any configured that way.
>> A threshold plate (my word) sticking out just doen't seem right to me
>> yet.
>
> If it helps Bill, it is common to leave a little reveal on pieces like this.
> Sort of an achitectural statement. From a structural standpoint, that 1/4"
> will not matter a whit. A little hold back like that will also help water
> drip off the edge of the threshold and not run down the face of the board
> underneath - a big step to preventing rot. Think of it as a drip edge.
>
> You're liable to find everything imaginable as you look around, so don't
> feel reluctant to go with your own eye.
>
I appreciate your comment and the time and effort you took to make it.
But I think a 1" board will look better under the side moldings. As it
is, I may hand plane them 1/4" near the bottom for an nicer fit (it
would only take seconds).
This thread did reinforce for me that that piece of molding isn't
supposed to be bearing any load--which is not completely obvious when
you consider where it is located! More of the story could be revealed
when I remove the piece that is there...
Handing down a nugget of wisdom, my dad explained to me that "There
isn't any problem so small that you can't throw a lot of money at
it...". It appears you can replace the word "money" with "time" if you
are so inclined (but that would change it's meaning). The spirit of the
original remark is that is is valuable to be able to figure out how to
get stuff done on your own. Anyway, if you have kids or grandkids,
maybe you can tell 'em that! : ) I don't have any--except when my
students ask me if I have any, I tell 'em I have about 60 this semester! :)
Bill
Leon wrote:
> On 8/14/2012 2:02 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Leon wrote:
>>
>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the ends
>>> so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
>>
>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge of
>> the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>
>>
>>
>>> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
>>
>
>
>
> Is your molding thicker than 3/4"? Have you actually measured it?
Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
The 2nd picture shows that it really is "super wide":
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 8/14/2012 2:02 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>>> ends
>>>> so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
>>>
>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge of
>>> the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Is your molding thicker than 3/4"? Have you actually measured it?
>
> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
> The 2nd picture shows that it really is "super wide":
Yes, I meant "super THICK".
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
On 8/15/2012 11:30 AM, Bill wrote:
...
> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
The moulding around the door is brick mould whereas somebody just stuck
a piece of interior sash trim along the bottom.
You can buy short section of brick mould to match the rest and use that
if want although I'd look at what's below the threshold itself. What
you really should have is a regular full threshold underneath and that
would be the actual support, not a trim piece serving dual function. If
there's an opening under there, the ideal would be to insert it under
there and then the trim would be under it to simply dress it up...
--
On 8/15/12 11:30 AM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 8/14/2012 2:02 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> I would simply finish nail a 1x4 in its place and perhaps angle the
>>>> ends
>>>> so that the bottom edge is shorter than the top edge, but not much.
>>>
>>> But that would leave the threshold plate extending 1/4" over the edge of
>>> the new trim (unless you mean a real 1" 1x4).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Putty nail holes and paint. Treat it like regular trim.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Is your molding thicker than 3/4"? Have you actually measured it?
>
> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
> The 2nd picture shows that it really is "super wide":
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
I'm late to this party, but when I looked at your pictures the first
thing that jumped into my mind was PVC garage door jamb.
It is thick and wide, lasts forever, and doesn't need painting.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
dpb wrote:
> On 8/15/2012 11:30 AM, Bill wrote:
> ...
>
>> Yes, It's 1" on the inside (where it alighs with the threshold plate),
>> and 5/4" on the outside. Because of that, I plan to go with a 1" board.
>
> The moulding around the door is brick mould whereas somebody just stuck
> a piece of interior sash trim along the bottom.
>
> You can buy short section of brick mould to match the rest and use that
> if want although I'd look at what's below the threshold itself.
Yes, thank you for informing me I had "brick mould"! I just returned
from Big Orange, with a matching piece, already primed, for $1.32/ft.
They even entrusted me with a miter saw to cut as much as I wanted!
I will still do the inspection of the threshold, but since it's been
solid for the 3 years I've used it, I don't anticipate finding any
problems with it.
Thank you for teaching me a little more about doors! Besides this one,
I'm still happy about the one I learned to shim earlier this summer
(we'll find out if it's "fixed" when it gets cold)! : )
Bill
What
> you really should have is a regular full threshold underneath and that
> would be the actual support, not a trim piece serving dual function. If
> there's an opening under there, the ideal would be to insert it under
> there and then the trim would be under it to simply dress it up...
>
> --
Bill wrote:
>
> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bill
It's always a pleasure to share how things come out with
the folks here who help and are supportive. I documented the short story
if you care to view it (I tried to make it interesting).
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
Thank you,
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Yes, thank you for informing me I had "brick mould"! I just returned
> from Big Orange, with a matching piece, already primed, for $1.32/ft.
> They even entrusted me with a miter saw to cut as much as I wanted!
Speaking of bricks, that is another option to fair out under the
threshold...brick, veneer brick, quarry tile, Saltillo tile, etc. One
advantage is that it gives you a chance to squish mortar under the aluminum
threshold to firm it up. In my limited experience, those thresholds are
often rather casually afixed.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 00:09:27 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I
>>> installed in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around
>>> an "Elephant in the room". It is the board which looks likes it's
>>> part of the door molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold
>>> (between the house and the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of
>>> it (shop side view):
>>>
>>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>>
>>> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>>>
>>> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after
>>> learning how to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this
>>> "problem"--even though I don't know precisely how to best fix it
>>> yet.
>>>
>>> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to
>>> size, 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom
>>> and the ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it
>>> in place. I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads
>>> under joint compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know
>>> whether the sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not
>>> (to prevent warping?)
>>>
>>> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>> It's always a pleasure to share how things come out with
>> the folks here who help and are supportive. I documented the short
>> story if you care to view it (I tried to make it interesting).
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> Then there's curmudgeonly me. <g> I see lots, good and bad.
>
> What I see is a thicker moulding which will try to catch your toes on
> the way into the house every time you step over it. I would have
> replaced the moulding with one as thin or thinner than the existing
> one so that wouldn't be a problem.
I would have just made it wider...all the way to the floor.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 00:09:27 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>> It's always a pleasure to share how things come out with
>> the folks here who help and are supportive. I documented the short story
>> if you care to view it (I tried to make it interesting).
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> Then there's curmudgeonly me. <g> I see lots, good and bad.
Well, that's how we (all) learn!
>
> What I see is a thicker moulding which will try to catch your toes on
> the way into the house every time you step over it. I would have
> replaced the moulding with one as thin or thinner than the existing
> one so that wouldn't be a problem. When you're in a hurry, you don't
> always watch your foot positioning, so you'll trip.
I don't think that is a problem because there is a preceding step.
One's inclination is to step at least to the middle of the
threshold--not to the front edge.
>
> Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
> eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
Yes, I'm preparing for a total repaint (soon as I finish the drywall).
>
> --
> All of us want to do well. But if we do not do
> good, too, then doing well will never be enough.
> -- Anna Quindlen
>
dadiOH wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> Yes, thank you for informing me I had "brick mould"! I just returned
>> from Big Orange, with a matching piece, already primed, for $1.32/ft.
>> They even entrusted me with a miter saw to cut as much as I wanted!
>
> Speaking of bricks, that is another option to fair out under the
> threshold...brick, veneer brick, quarry tile, Saltillo tile, etc. One
> advantage is that it gives you a chance to squish mortar under the aluminum
> threshold to firm it up. In my limited experience, those thresholds are
> often rather casually afixed.
>
Yes, they are (rather casually afixed). The last person who worked on
the door inserted a small strip of wood (which I left) where you are
suggesting mortar.
I may sort of go with your other idea down the road by putting something
Under the molding which extends to the top of the step. That way it will
look sharp and stay clean and protected.
At least I understand better the way my door works now, so if it needs
further work in the future I will have a much improved starting point.
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
>> eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
I missed your joke the first time around! Ha ha ha!!! : )
I assume a wire brush will help tidy up, down the road--maybe a small
one on my rotary tool.
I gotta get my nose to the drywall, to get that job done!
Bill wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>>> Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
>>> eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
>
What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my
design (because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that
at the time (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan").
I suspect wood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you
think? Drywall compound? Start over? : )
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
>> What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my
>> design (because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of
>> that at the time (that's the sort of thing that happens when I
>> don't "plan"). I suspect wood putty would be difficult to remove.
>> What would you think? Drywall compound? Start over? : ) Bill
>
> Any reasonable filler that's easy to work. Drywall compound will
> work, at least for a while. If it ever fell out, it would be easy to
> replace. Famowood filler comes to mind, also.
Okay, thank you. I wrote that down.
>
> I had wondered if there was something preventing the old molding from
> fitting flush to the wall.
You were right--the plywood protruded abit.
I would have guessed extruded caulking,
> dried before the molding was installed. That's one reason, though
> not mentioned, why I suggested looking under the threshold.
Yes, I mentioned I cut away a 1/2" strip, up to 5/16" deep.
That will have virtually no affect on my molding.
If I had faced that job 3 years ago, I would have had to do it with a
box-cutter or a pocket knife (which, admittedly, would have worked)...
I enjoyed putting the Montgomery Wards Rebate Plane back into action!
I'll remember that longer than I'll remember the trim. I've kept it on
my bookshelf, about 6 feet from me. And now it's prepared for it's next
job! : ) I should probably review a manual so I can properly use the
"slicer" part which evidently helps sever the shavings on the inside
edge of the cut. Thank you for sharing your expertise about the threshold!
Bill
>
> Sonny
>
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 17:20:22 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
>>>>> eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
>>>
>>
>>
>> What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my
>> design (because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that
>> at the time (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan").
>> I suspect wood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you
>> think? Drywall compound? Start over? : )
>
> I'd caulk the screws in (easily removable) or start over with a
> thinner moulding. <g>
>
> Otherwise, I hide screws with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It sands
> easily and doesn't seem to come out, even with exterior use like deck
> railings which are painted.
Lew's idea (Epoxy with microballs) made me think of putting a little
barrier down (like cotton and plastic) over my square head screws and
putting wood putty on top. That way the screw heads would be more
accessible.
By the way, I found that drywall crack you may have noticed in the
picture, and I taped it! I was hoping it was just a piece of dust on
the lens... You could have just pointed it out (and I would have told
you it was just dust on the lens)!
>
> --
> All of us want to do well. But if we do not do
> good, too, then doing well will never be enough.
> -- Anna Quindlen
>
Pown1943 wrote:
> 'Bill[_37_ Wrote:
>> ;2909327']As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I
>> installed
>> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
>>
>> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
>> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
>>
>> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>>
>> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
>>
>> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
>>
>> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>>
>> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
>>
>> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
>> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
>> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
>> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
>> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
>> warping?)
>>
>> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Bill
>
>
>
>
> -- hey Bill I suggest that you consult or ask tips to some great
> interior designers in town to help you with the pimping.
What do think they would suggest? My door not flashy enough for you?
BTW, the dirt underneath it is Not from people going up the stair, it's
from everyone (mostly me, these days) waiting on the other party to get
ready to go. Anyway it will be painted someday soon. I did a day of
drywall work today and will do another tomorrow. Anyone notice 5 gal.
pail of setting compound get thinner near the bottom? I'm not sure if
it's just my imagination. I've got some tape that looks like it didn't
get set very well. I'm not planning to use any more of it unless I run
out of "Easy Sand".
On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 00:09:27 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>>
>> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
>> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
>> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
>> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
>> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>>
>> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>>
>> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>>
>> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
>> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
>> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>>
>> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
>> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
>> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
>> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
>> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
>> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
>> warping?)
>>
>> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Bill
>
>It's always a pleasure to share how things come out with
>the folks here who help and are supportive. I documented the short story
>if you care to view it (I tried to make it interesting).
>
>http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
Then there's curmudgeonly me. <g> I see lots, good and bad.
What I see is a thicker moulding which will try to catch your toes on
the way into the house every time you step over it. I would have
replaced the moulding with one as thin or thinner than the existing
one so that wouldn't be a problem. When you're in a hurry, you don't
always watch your foot positioning, so you'll trip.
Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
--
All of us want to do well. But if we do not do
good, too, then doing well will never be enough.
-- Anna Quindlen
On Thu, 16 Aug 2012 17:20:22 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>>>> Hey, and clean the mud off your paint under the door and on the porch,
>>>> eh? (Right after you caulk.) <titter>
>>
>
>
>What is a good filler to use if I might decide I wish to change my
>design (because I used deck Screws--not nails)? I did not think of that
>at the time (that's the sort of thing that happens when I don't "plan").
>I suspect wood putty would be difficult to remove. What would you
>think? Drywall compound? Start over? : )
I'd caulk the screws in (easily removable) or start over with a
thinner moulding. <g>
Otherwise, I hide screws with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It sands
easily and doesn't seem to come out, even with exterior use like deck
railings which are painted.
--
All of us want to do well. But if we do not do
good, too, then doing well will never be enough.
-- Anna Quindlen
Bill wrote:
>
> As I have been tending to details in finishing the drywall I installed
> in my shop, I feel as though I've been tip-toeing around an "Elephant in
> the room". It is the board which looks likes it's part of the door
> molding, but perhaps also supports the threshold (between the house and
> the shop). It is so ugly, I took 3 pics of it (shop side view):
>
> http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/
>
> To be generous, it is obviously an OEM part. : )
>
> Almost anything else would be an improvement. Somehow after learning how
> to shim my other door, I'm less tolerant of this "problem"--even though
> I don't know precisely how to best fix it yet.
>
> If I couldn't ask anyone, I might take a 2by4 and work it down to size,
> 1" wide, and maybe put a bevel on the outside edge of bottom and the
> ends for the sake of its protection and style, and screw it in place.
> I'm not sure whether I'd want to hide the screw heads under joint
> compound or not. Then I'd prime and paint. I don't know whether the
> sides you don't see are supposed to be finished or not (to prevent
> warping?)
>
> Okay, now what's the right way to do it? : )
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bill
>
While you're beautifying the door, a kick panel between the threshold
and top step might be nice, finished with a hard finish.
--
G.W. Ross
A gentleman is a man who can play the
accordian, but doesn't.