I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
cost of his used saw.
Thanks!
Scott
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote
: Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
: hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
: blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
: would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea?
Decidedly so! 6" would be too far away.
Scott might like to look at my web site - 'Circular Sawbench Safety' -
'Riving Kinves' and 'Buying a Circular Sawbench' for a specification of a
riving knife, regarded as preferable to a splitter.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.amgron.clara.net
"Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Best idea I've run across for making your own splitter was in a woodworking
> magazine a few years back.
>
> Buy a cheapo drill bit just slightly smaller than the thickness of your
> blade (a 3/32 or 7/64 for a 1/8" blade).
>
Hey, thanks for the idea . . . I'l see if my friend wants to try that!
Cheers,
Scott
Hi Bruce,
You would want to change from your zero clearance throat plate to a larger one
for your dado set anyway so that would not be an issue. Cheers, JG
Bruce wrote:
> In rec.woodworking
> [email protected] (Scott) wrote:
>
> >I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> >on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> >gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> >to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> >wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> >some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> >jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
> >
> >Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> >hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> >blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> >would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> >Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> >cost of his used saw.
>
> I see it as a fine idea, with these caveats:
>
> 1. Make damn sure you are exactly behind the blade
> 2. You can use 3/16" It must be the same or smaller than your blade width
> 3. It is a bit of a hazard, like a nail sticking up, then again so is your
> blade but you can lower that.
> 4. Would it be hard to remove when you do dados and such?
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Scott) wrote:
>I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
>on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
>gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
>to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
>wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
>some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
>jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>
>Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
>hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
>blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
>would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
>Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
>cost of his used saw.
I see it as a fine idea, with these caveats:
1. Make damn sure you are exactly behind the blade
2. You can use 3/16" It must be the same or smaller than your blade width
3. It is a bit of a hazard, like a nail sticking up, then again so is your
blade but you can lower that.
4. Would it be hard to remove when you do dados and such?
In rec.woodworking
[email protected] (Bruce) wrote:
>In rec.woodworking
>[email protected] (Scott) wrote:
>
>>I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
>>on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
>>gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
>>to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
>>wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
>>some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
>>jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>>
>>Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
>>hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
>>blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
>>would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
>>Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
>>cost of his used saw.
>
>I see it as a fine idea, with these caveats:
>
>1. Make damn sure you are exactly behind the blade
>2. You can use 3/16" It must be the same or smaller than your blade width
>3. It is a bit of a hazard, like a nail sticking up, then again so is your
>blade but you can lower that.
>4. Would it be hard to remove when you do dados and such?
That should be CAN'T use 3/16"
Check out this URL for another variation of a splitter and a zero clearance
insert.
http://members.cox.net/jfrantz/shopweb/ts_splitter.htm
Jerry
"codepath" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:mSJPb.100631$5V2.364033@attbi_s53...
> How far behind the kerf?
>
>
>
>
> "Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Best idea I've run across for making your own splitter was in a
> woodworking
> > magazine a few years back.
> >
> > Buy a cheapo drill bit just slightly smaller than the thickness of your
> > blade (a 3/32 or 7/64 for a 1/8" blade).
> >
> > 1. Take your zero-clearance insert to the drill press. Arrange the
fence
> so
> > that a 1/8" bit (or 3/32" if you're using thin kerf) fits right into the
> > kerf (with the kerf parallel to the fence. Lock the fence down.
> >
> > 2. Chuck the smaller bit (something like a 7/64 for 3/32 for a 1/8"
blade)
> > you just purchased. Drill a hole behind the kerf (make sure you have
> > already raised the blade as high as it will go to insure you don't drill
> > where the blade could cut). The fence position should center the hole on
> the
> > kerf's centerline.
> >
> > 3. Remove the cheap bit from the drill press. Insert the bit into the
> hole
> > you just drilled and use some epoxy to secure it. Now, cut the bit off
so
> > that only about 1/8" or so projects up from the insert.
> >
> > If you've done all this accurately, you should have a small metal
splitter
> > in line with the kerf, with just a tiny amount of clearance on both
sides.
> >
> > Hope that all makes sense.
> >
> >
> > "Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> > > on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> > > gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> > > to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> > > wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> > > some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> > > jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
> > >
> > > Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> > > hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> > > blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> > > would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> > > Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> > > cost of his used saw.
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Scott
> >
> >
>
>
This may not help you since you have your blade raised and you may not
be using a zero clearance insert but Kelly Mehler had an article on
his page that was in FWW as well:
http://kellymehler.com/Assets/pages/Table%20Saw%20Safety.html
-Sean
[email protected] (Scott) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>
> Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> cost of his used saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>
> Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> cost of his used saw.
Scott,
6" behind the blade is probably too far away. If you get a wild board
it will wrap around the back of the blade almost immediately.
The best option is to put the splitter in the blade insert. My $0.02
worth. Good luck.
--
Regards,
Rick
(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)
Posted on abpw a pic of one one I made for my DW744 after an accident. I
like what I've seen here better cept for the lack of blade guard, which I
won't, except for the rare occasion, run saw without anymore. The one I made
works well for me.
--
Paul
[email protected]
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip060900ws.html
Don't make it any harder than you have to...
Scott wrote:
>
> Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> cost of his used saw.
On 21 Jan 2004 20:28:20 -0800, [email protected] (Scott) wrote:
>I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi
Chinese-made saws are generally targeted at the world market, which
means sensible places like Europe where riving knives are mandatory.
I would guess that this thing already has suitable bolt-holes in place
to fit a riving knife, and you may even be able to buy the parts as
spares. Try asking Ryobi, or even Ryobi UK.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
One of the members a while back posted pictures of his guard with splitter a
while back on APBW if you are interested I will repost them for your
benefit. Of course if the member comes forth out of the wood work first to
describe his work that would be ok too.
--
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>
> Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> cost of his used saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott
I just cut a chunk of 1/16" or so thick metal, drilled a hole near the
bottom, cut-out a slot up to the hole.
in the same spot as the Delta guard would attach behind the blade, i
loosen the screw, slide this in, and tighten screw. ah.. maybe i put
on a larger washer also.
I could get one of those hand-tightenable screws, but a 1/2" wrench
close by works well now for when i want to take it off
when the blade is fully raised, it's 1/2" behind the backside of the
blade. when the blade is lower, it of course is farther behind, and
less effective.
i had it 3" or so high, but cut it down so my crosscut box would slide
over it
the thickness of the metal needs to be less than the blade.. the by
default it alligns to the right edge of the blade.. right where you
want it.
works for me... scrap metal, and 30 minutes of time.
How far behind the kerf?
"Bestest Handsander" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Best idea I've run across for making your own splitter was in a
woodworking
> magazine a few years back.
>
> Buy a cheapo drill bit just slightly smaller than the thickness of your
> blade (a 3/32 or 7/64 for a 1/8" blade).
>
> 1. Take your zero-clearance insert to the drill press. Arrange the fence
so
> that a 1/8" bit (or 3/32" if you're using thin kerf) fits right into the
> kerf (with the kerf parallel to the fence. Lock the fence down.
>
> 2. Chuck the smaller bit (something like a 7/64 for 3/32 for a 1/8" blade)
> you just purchased. Drill a hole behind the kerf (make sure you have
> already raised the blade as high as it will go to insure you don't drill
> where the blade could cut). The fence position should center the hole on
the
> kerf's centerline.
>
> 3. Remove the cheap bit from the drill press. Insert the bit into the
hole
> you just drilled and use some epoxy to secure it. Now, cut the bit off so
> that only about 1/8" or so projects up from the insert.
>
> If you've done all this accurately, you should have a small metal splitter
> in line with the kerf, with just a tiny amount of clearance on both sides.
>
> Hope that all makes sense.
>
>
> "Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> > on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> > gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> > to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> > wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> > some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> > jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
> >
> > Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> > hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> > blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> > would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> > Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> > cost of his used saw.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Scott
>
>
Best idea I've run across for making your own splitter was in a woodworking
magazine a few years back.
Buy a cheapo drill bit just slightly smaller than the thickness of your
blade (a 3/32 or 7/64 for a 1/8" blade).
1. Take your zero-clearance insert to the drill press. Arrange the fence so
that a 1/8" bit (or 3/32" if you're using thin kerf) fits right into the
kerf (with the kerf parallel to the fence. Lock the fence down.
2. Chuck the smaller bit (something like a 7/64 for 3/32 for a 1/8" blade)
you just purchased. Drill a hole behind the kerf (make sure you have
already raised the blade as high as it will go to insure you don't drill
where the blade could cut). The fence position should center the hole on the
kerf's centerline.
3. Remove the cheap bit from the drill press. Insert the bit into the hole
you just drilled and use some epoxy to secure it. Now, cut the bit off so
that only about 1/8" or so projects up from the insert.
If you've done all this accurately, you should have a small metal splitter
in line with the kerf, with just a tiny amount of clearance on both sides.
Hope that all makes sense.
"Scott" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was ripping some 8/4 oak last night on a friend's Ryobi that I have
> on loan while I figure out what to buy fpr myself. Anyhow, no safety
> gear on this saw. While ripping I watched the ends of my work begin
> to pinch to together. I carefully shut down, and jammed a wedge of
> wood in the end of the piece, then resumed cutting. And since I read
> some of the kickback accounts this past week, I donned my motorcycle
> jacket (with chest protection), and my full-face helmet.
>
> Tonight I was looking at the saw, and it seems a guy could drill a
> hole and place a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter bolt about 6 inches behind the
> blade. The bolt would stick up just like a splitter (the bolt head
> would be under the table). Is this a really bad idea? I stopped at
> Wood Craft, and the lowest price splitter is over $100, about half the
> cost of his used saw.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Scott