Cc

"Corey"

01/09/2004 6:13 PM

Newbie wood and first project question(s)

Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some scrap
framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew how
to turn the machines on and alter the wood.

My questions are on getting started.

1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a lumber
yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood that
is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
steps).

2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
now).

3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A basic
box, bookcase, ???

Thanks for any advice/recommendations.

Corey


This topic has 33 replies

nn

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 8:34 AM

My start was wife wanted a shelf with rounded corners and curved
supports with contoured edges that would be painted. Sears 3 wheel
bandsaw, router and table and couple of bits, BIG mistake but I hark
back to time when Sears was not a foul name. All gone now except the
bits that gather dust. All of the tools were bought the same way,
something NEEDED. Got a chance to get familiar with each one as they
were acquired. I realize now hearing protection should have been
procured earlier than it was along with other things like air
filtration. Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking books 1&2 shows more than
one way to do a LOT of things and isn't something you go through once
and put aside but something that will be pulled off the shelf several
times for reference. Almost everything can be done in more than one
way when working wood. Second and third attempts at same task are
always improvements over the first, and get done faster also.

km

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 7:18 PM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06>...
> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).
>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).
>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A basic
> box, bookcase, ???
>
> Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
>
> Corey

Certainly you can buy finished stock, rough stock costs less initially
but if you do not have the tools or knowledge yet, then buy finished
product. Some hardwood yards will plane and joint one edge for you at
an additional cost.Try searching for a hardwood yard in your area. You
can buy rough or finished boards from online companys. I never have so
I can't reccomend a particular company.
You have the right idea, I would buy inexpensive softwood, pine,
poplar, etc for your beginning projects. As far as what to build? What
do you need or like,bookcase,magazine stand,etc. In the future you
might decide to build furniture from expensive woods, by then you will
have down more than just the basics.

Mike

nN

[email protected] (Nate Perkins)

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 5:18 PM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04>...
> Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium for
> stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar guy
> that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to create
> something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
> hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn into
> a better and less expensive hobby.

Yeah, I work a lot with numbers and computers and such and I have the
same enjoyment of making something tangible.

A good place to start is to get a few decent chisels, a little handsaw
(western or japanese, as long as it's sharp), and practice making some
joinery by hand. A few books from the library will get you started in
the basic technique (there are many good authors out there). Use
something cheap like scrap poplar just for practice. Even if you end
up using only machine tools later, the things you learn by doing this
will be good skills down the road. It teaches you about accurate
layout and gives you a feel for how to work the wood compatibly with
the grain.

After you've done a half dozen or so mortise and tenon joints and
dozen dovetails, you'll be itching for something more. Maybe try a
small bookcase, small hanging cabinet, or possibly a side table. You
might be tempted to make it out of a really cheap wood (like poplar
again) -- but don't. If you can afford it, then make it out of a wood
that you like, even if it costs a little more. At the end of the
project you will care more about the labor you put into it than the
modest difference in wood cost.

If you want to get into using the table saw straightaway, the best
projects to make on the tablesaw first are jigs. Tenoning jigs and
crosscut sleds are extremely useful. Just be sure to understand all
the saw safety rules, understand what causes kickback, don't remove
the safety guards and pawls, and don't get in a hurry.

Good luck,
Nate

nN

[email protected] (Nate Perkins)

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 5:27 PM

"firstjois" <[email protected]> wrote in message :
...
> books often lack depth. I'd like to have a couple of good reference books
> and would appreciate more recommendations.

I'd recommend "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking v1&2" in paperback (by
Tage Frid, of course).

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1561580686/qid=1094171209/sr=8-1/ref=pd_ka_1/104-5339634-2025563?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

hD

[email protected] (David Hall)

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 7:15 AM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06>...
> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).
>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).
>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A basic
> box, bookcase, ???
>
> Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
>
> Corey

My advice may be a bit different than others - my wife tells me I am a
bit "different" sometimes. I think you should start by building stuff
that doesn't NEED to be perfect but can still benefit from various
joints, edges and finishes. These, to me, would include shop furniture
you are going to need such as shelves, cabinets, and boxes for various
sets of tools that you have that don't have boxes. Early on I boxed up
chisels, cheap carving tool sets and drill bit sets. The boxes, while
not great and sometimes pretty crappy, are worth far more than the
tools ;) You can also practice by building patio furniture, bird
houses, etc. Pretty much all of these can be built (shop stuff and
outdoor stuff) using basic Borg pine, construction scraps and found
wood such as pallets (I have some really nice shop boxes and cabinets
built from pallet wood of various unknown species). The found wood got
me started on both "exotic" (i.e. not pine) woods and rough wood
without breaking the bank. It also made me start looking for planes on
ebay and at garage sales ;)

Save that living room bookshelf or formal diningroom table until you
have played with the hobby a while, but build at least some useful
stuff while learning

Dave Hall

Cc

"Corey"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 10:08 PM

Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium for
stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar guy
that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to create
something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn into
a better and less expensive hobby.

I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.
I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get comfortable
using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few of
the real basics to slowly gain comfort.




"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06...
> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew
how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a
lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood
that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).
>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).
>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
basic
> box, bookcase, ???
>
> Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
>
> Corey
>
>

RM

"Ron Magen"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 12:14 AM

Been half-way following the recent discussion about chisels. Not really very
concerned because the ONE I use 90 percent of the time is an 'old' Stanley 1
inch Bench type. Got another 1/2 inch one on the basement 'tool peg board'.
However, several years ago I did get a boxed-set of 'decent' chisels . . .
and put them away in a chest.

Anyhow, doing a little computer 'housecleaning' I noted an old advert from
one of my sources for a set of 'Two Cherries' at $142. This prompted me to
go look at the ones in I'd put away . . . I faintly remembered a red logo.
To make a long story short - they are Freud.

They look good to me. The two that I 'tuned' {way back when} feel good and
worked well. My question is, just for curiosity . . . how do they compare to
the 'TOP END' stuff {priced there, too}that every raves about.

Regards & Thanks,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 12:14 AM

02/09/2004 1:16 AM

Ron Magen asks:

>Anyhow, doing a little computer 'housecleaning' I noted an old advert from
>one of my sources for a set of 'Two Cherries' at $142. This prompted me to
>go look at the ones in I'd put away . . . I faintly remembered a red logo.
>To make a long story short - they are Freud.
>
>They look good to me. The two that I 'tuned' {way back when} feel good and
>worked well. My question is, just for curiosity . . . how do they compare to
>the 'TOP END' stuff {priced there, too}that every raves about.

Durned if I know how they compare. I've got a set, of which I prepped three,
which I like enough to use some battered old Stanley models in rough work. They
hold an edge exceptionally well, and are also easy to sharpen, two things that
don't always go together, as you know. I don't know what else chisels are meant
to do. Do their work, do it cleanly, stay in shape to do that work for a
reasonable length of time without upkeep.

Charlie Self
"A judge is a law student who marks his own examination papers." H. L. Mencken

RM

"Ron Magen"

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 12:14 AM

02/09/2004 3:10 PM

Charlie,
That's how I feel . . . but what does a dumb-ass ex-GI know. I figured there
had to be a *logical* reason why the top guys on this forum were all
atwitter about getting a $100 chisel for $79 and calling it, 'a bargain'.

What I do remember is the astonishment, and then the joy, of using the old
Stanley . . . AFTER I sharpened it. I don't remember where it came from, but
it was probably never 'prepped' before. After that, I went and worked on
*everything* in the house with an edge !!

Of course my favorite tool is still the tool box issue pocket knife I've
been carrying for the last 30+ years.

Regards & Thanks,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote ...
SNIP
I don't know what else chisels are meant to do. Do their work, do it
cleanly, stay in shape to do that work for a reasonable length of time
without upkeep.

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 3:10 PM

02/09/2004 3:47 PM

Ron Magen responds:

>Charlie,
>That's how I feel . . . but what does a dumb-ass ex-GI know.

Probably as much as a former jarhead like me.

>I figured there
>had to be a *logical* reason why the top guys on this forum were all
>atwitter about getting a $100 chisel for $79 and calling it, 'a bargain'.

Easier to get going with it, maybe. Takes less time to flatten the back and
finish off the sharpening. The metal is probably better, holds an edge longer,
too. But you have to figure how much you want to (or can) spend to get that
extra performance. I mean, I'd love to trade my Dodge Stratus for a Viper, but
no can do! And where would the grandkids sit, anyway?

>What I do remember is the astonishment, and then the joy, of using the old
>Stanley . . . AFTER I sharpened it. I don't remember where it came from, but
>it was probably never 'prepped' before. After that, I went and worked on
>*everything* in the house with an edge !!

I need time. I want to finish the Freud's, I've got some old
shall-remain-unnamed chisels from a former employer that are pretty good, two
sets of Stanley's, and a half dozen Japanese chisels to finish up one of these
days. Plus about 20 plane irons.

>Of course my favorite tool is still the tool box issue pocket knife I've
>been carrying for the last 30+ years

I wish I could say that. About 20 years ago, I had a really good, very small
Boker Tree. Found it after it was lost for 18 of those years. It is so heavily
rusted from mouse pee, I don't think I can save it. But I'm going to try.

Charlie Self
"A judge is a law student who marks his own examination papers." H. L. Mencken

RM

"Ron Magen"

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 3:10 PM

03/09/2004 8:12 PM

Barry,
Thanks for the comment.

I have always been a believer in the patience & ability of the workman,
rather than the invoices of his tools.

Maybe it's overcompensation because I don't have a big shop, thousands of
dollars worth of power tools, or a lot of PR.

Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote ...
SNIP
> I took an excellent hand cut dovetail class from a local pro
> cabinetmaker. His 20 year old personal chisels were Freud, and he
> still likes them.
>
> I think once you get away from the cheapies, they all are capable of
> long , useful lives and beautiful work.

RM

"Ron Magen"

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 3:10 PM

02/09/2004 7:47 PM

Charlie,
Didn't you bring your bayonet home ?

You know, that can opener that fits on the end of your rifle . . .

Ron
{PS - I've got a couple of old WWI British bayonets . . . "Now THAT's a
KNIFE !!" }

"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote ...
SNIP
> Probably as much as a former jarhead like me.
>
SNIP
> I wish I could say that. About 20 years ago, I had a really good, very
small
> Boker Tree. Found it after it was lost for 18 of those years. It is so
heavily
> rusted from mouse pee, I don't think I can save it. But I'm going to try.

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 7:47 PM

02/09/2004 7:55 PM

Ron Magen asks:

>Charlie,
>Didn't you bring your bayonet home ?
>
>You know, that can opener that fits on the end of your rifle . . .
>
>Ron
>{PS - I've got a couple of old WWI British bayonets . . . "Now THA

Nope. Not much of a pocket knife, anyway. The Boker Tree is better, or was
better.

Charlie Self
"A conservative is a man with two perfectly good legs who, however, has never
learned to walk forward." Franklin D. Roosevelt, radio address, Oct. 26, 1939

Ba

B a r r y

in reply to "Ron Magen" on 02/09/2004 3:10 PM

02/09/2004 11:47 PM

On 02 Sep 2004 15:47:34 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:

>I need time. I want to finish the Freud's, I've got some old

I have Hirsch, the chisel Lee Valley sells that's made in the Two
Cherries factory. I like them a lot. A coworker recently picked up
a set of Lie Nielsens that he really likes.

I took an excellent hand cut dovetail class from a local pro
cabinetmaker. His 20 year old personal chisels were Freud, and he
still likes them.

I think once you get away from the cheapies, they all are capable of
long , useful lives and beautiful work.

Barry

JH

Jim Helfer

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 11:40 PM

Corey wrote:

> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).
>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).
>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A basic
> box, bookcase, ???
>
> Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
>
> Corey
>
>

Perhaps not a good recomendation, but I'm a beginner as well, and
here are my first projects:

oak Go board (really just 3 pieces of HD oak biscuited together)
plywood camp table
plywood and oak stair tread step stool
oak round Limbert occasional table
oak tavern mirror frame
oak & walnut chest
pine knock-down camp benches

Now I'm thinking about more furniture and decorated boxes

Hope this Helps

JC

"Jack Casuso"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 11:32 PM

Hey Corey, as a former desk jockey, I can tell you that you will enjoy the
change. Follow the advise you have gotten here from the old timers (not
necessarily age but experience) and have fun. Be cautious with your power
tools and don't rush. As a starter, you might want to take a look at the
Wood Magazine site
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/members.xml&catref=wd2
they are offering a free downloadable plan for a night stand. Haven't
looked at the plan myself but the project looks easy enough. You could
forget about the drawer and use the drawer opening as a shelf.


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04...
> Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium
for
> stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar
guy
> that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to
create
> something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
> hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn
into
> a better and less expensive hobby.
>
> I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.
> I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
> indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
> thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get comfortable
> using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few of
> the real basics to slowly gain comfort.
>
>
>
>
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06...
> > Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
> scrap
> > framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew
> how
> > to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
> >
> > My questions are on getting started.
> >
> > 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a
> lumber
> > yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs.
But
> > as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood
> that
> > is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> > expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar
with
> > some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock
(baby
> > steps).
> >
> > 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at
the
> > local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember
right
> > now).
> >
> > 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
> basic
> > box, bookcase, ???
> >
> > Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
> >
> > Corey
> >
> >
>
>

Rr

"RonB"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 1:59 PM

> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a
lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood
that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).

It is good to learn how to dimension and square undimensioned pieces. It is
probably more important to just get started with a comfortable project.
This would be a project that allows you to get acquainted with you shop and
tools in a safe manner. Then work on to projects and techniques that get
less comfortable. Without specific knowledge of you shop and equipment
(mostly hand or power tools?), it is hard to say much more.

> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).

You said the LOWE's* word regarding lumber (Good company, great stock,
obscene hardwood prices). As a newbie, you should first search out
alternative sources for hardwoods. If you convert Lowe's or HD's linear
foot prices to bd/ft some of their Oak is $7-8 a bd/ft. You can try
http://www.woodfinder.com/, but it can be a little cranky at times. Search
on '10 closest" to you zip for best results. Also look in your local yellow
pages for hardwood dealers, mills, etc. for local merchants that either
process local hardwoods or ship it in for resale. This dealer
http://www.woodsworksqh.com/ , for example serves the south central kansas
area and his prices are fairly representative of the area. However, by
going 120 miles east (where he gets some of his stock) we can save up to $1
a bd ft on some grades of Oak, even more on Walnut. Bottom line - search
around and build a supply base for materials. This homework will serve you
well as your skill develops - It is part of the skill. Same goes for tools
and equipment. The most popular woodworking sources are convenient but not
necessarily the most cost effective.

As far as material, your budget will help guide you. Oak is reasonable and
fairly easy to work with. Walnut is a very attractive wood that has
pleasant machining properties, but expensive. There are a lot of projects
that call for pine or less expensive wood (clear pine is not cheap). Build
someting you need.

(*I think I am becoming know for my Lowe's attitude with this group. But it
is a good stock.)

> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
basic
> box, bookcase, ???
>
What ever you need in your house that you feel comfortable doing. Some of
my first 'serious' projects were simple bookcases. I look back at some of
them now and say "who built THAT!" You will improve with practice. Just
remember, stretch your comfort zone as you progress.

Ronb

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 2:41 AM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message

> I figure woodworking can turn into
> a better and less expensive hobby.

Hmm, you are new at this arent you? ;)


>
> I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.
> I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
> indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
> thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get comfortable
> using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few of
> the real basics to slowly gain comfort.

Great way to start. Minimal investment and you see results. Plenty of
simple projects that can be done with a couple of pine boards from Lowes or
HD or the corner lumber yard. Simple shelf, step stool, birdhouse, bird
feeder, etc. I started by copying some doll furniture.

as you progress, by tools as you need them. Don't let lack of a tool stop
you either. Most joints can be made a half dozen ways and still be
perfectly functional. As you get comfortable and better skilled, try
something new just to try it. Sure, you can use a simple butt joint, but
make a rabbet instead.

Consider taking a basic class also. Some adult educations schools have
them, Woodcraft stores have them, etc.

pp

patriarch <[email protected]>

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 8:42 PM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06:

> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
> scrap framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I
> actually knew how to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
Ron & Leon, as usual, have offered good answers.

I'm going to suggest that you find some local advisor(s) or mentors.
Because there are limits to what your electronic friends can show you, and
because we can't watch what you're doing, and how you're doing it, there is
real value to finding a group of folks who can do those things. Typically,
an adult education woodworking program, a community college, a woodworking
club, or perhaps a woodworking store with classes offers these types of
resources. Often, these are at reasonable cost, when they are available.

If none of those exist, ask folks in your community for a reference. I'd
be surprised if you couldn't find someone to make some sawdust with, who
would like to pass on some of what they've learned, possibly in some
community service activity.

And if you live in total isolation, there are always some good books. But
that's another thread...

Start simple. Build what's needed. If it doesn't work, build a better
one. Enjoy yourself. If something seems dangerous, find a better way to
do it.

Patriarch

pp

patriarch <[email protected]>

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 4:45 PM

"patrick conroy" <[email protected]> wrote in news:cssj02-
[email protected]:

>
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04...
>
>> Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
>> hours and frustrates the heck out of me,
>
> You play half rounds with no cart, I see? :)
>
>> I figure woodworking can turn into
>> a better and less expensive hobby.
>>
>
> Sure..............................................
> Yeah.............................................
> Did the Mrs. buy that?
>

My first great woodworking - golf epiphany came when I realized that I had
spent more on a driver and fairway woods in the last 12 months than a new
Unisaw would cost... And still couldn't tell you where the ball was going
with better than 70% surety.

1 dozen Pro V1 = 10bf S3S hardwoods, more or less. Which will you keep
longer? ;-)

Patriarch,
who still plays 'business golf'

pp

patriarch <[email protected]>

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

03/09/2004 9:27 PM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in news:ie5_c.67$x12.28@trnddc05:

<snip>
> The local community college has a 6 week beginner course starting next
> week that I might take. The class conflicts with my tennis lessons.
> But I can move tennis to another night of the week for 6 weeks. That
> will probably make me feel better - having some hands on demonstration
> and instruction.
>

ANYBODY can play tennis, and not hurt themselves too badly. ;-) Take the
class! The frustration you save, not to mention the wood not butchered and
the bad tools decisions you avoid, will be worth the time and money, even
if you get to play no tennis at all between now and Thanksgiving.

The class will start you down that slippery slope just fine....

Patriarch

ff

"firstjois"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 12:10 PM

[email protected] wrote:
>> My start was wife wanted a shelf with rounded corners and curved
>> supports with contoured edges that would be painted. Sears 3 wheel
>> bandsaw, router and table and couple of bits, BIG mistake but I hark
>> back to time when Sears was not a foul name. All gone now except the
>> bits that gather dust. All of the tools were bought the same way,
>> something NEEDED. Got a chance to get familiar with each one as they
>> were acquired. I realize now hearing protection should have been
>> procured earlier than it was along with other things like air
>> filtration. Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking books 1&2 shows more than
>> one way to do a LOT of things and isn't something you go through once
>> and put aside but something that will be pulled off the shelf several
>> times for reference. Almost everything can be done in more than one
>> way when working wood. Second and third attempts at same task are
>> always improvements over the first, and get done faster also.

I thought I'd learned enough about woodworking from watching my grandfather
as a kid to be able to pick up a couple of machines and start right up.
Fortunately a friend needed an extra hand in her workshop (She's a
full-time oak crafter.) and I offered to give her several hours a week if
she'd get me up to date/par. I was very lucky - she's very safety aware
and routinely uses all the safety features my grandfather's machines didn't
even have; dust collection, eye protection, ear protection, various sticks
and pushes - all routine to her. I probably would have quickly discovered
the depth of my ignorance on my own, but probably that would have been
more costly and painful. I still check books at the local books stores and
home improvement centers and have purchased several but the all-inclusive
books often lack depth. I'd like to have a couple of good reference books
and would appreciate more recommendations.

Jois

jJ

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 3:01 AM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message...
> I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.

Corey,

I went your route when I started woodworking a few years ago. First
project was a small shelf unit for displaying my daughter's clay
models in her bedroom. (Drive by follows) We worked together on it.
Each shelf has it's own separate background scene to display the clay
model in it's native environment (if you've ever watched Pokemon...)
and we both still enjoy looking at now. It's not the greatest
woodworking project I've ever did but it's something we did together
and it's always a reminder to me of how great a kid I think she is.

You didn't say if you had kids or not but if you're looking for a
project, they seem to have a lot of ideas.

Made it out of the poplar that Lowes sells. Fairly cheap to make and
ruining a piece here and there wasn't a problem. Eventually I made it
to a hardwood dealer. The dealer I go through was happy to surface
the wood. They added a little to the bf price but it was still much
cheaper than Lowes or HD. Eventually, if you get into woodworking,
you may get a planer and joiner. I like buying rough stock and
preparing it with power and hand tools.

Jo

CS

"Charles Spitzer"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 3:30 PM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04...
> Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium
for
> stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar
guy
> that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to
create
> something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
> hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn
into
> a better and less expensive hobby.
>
> I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.
> I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
> indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
> thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get comfortable
> using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few of
> the real basics to slowly gain comfort.
>

well, you can get s4s, or at least s3s, at woodworker supply places a lot
cheaper than lowes/home depot. for a small fee they'll also dimension it to
the thickness you want it at too.

>
>
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06...
> > Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
> scrap
> > framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew
> how
> > to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
> >
> > My questions are on getting started.
> >
> > 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a
> lumber
> > yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs.
But
> > as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood
> that
> > is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> > expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar
with
> > some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock
(baby
> > steps).
> >
> > 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at
the
> > local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember
right
> > now).
> >
> > 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
> basic
> > box, bookcase, ???
> >
> > Thanks for any advice/recommendations.
> >
> > Corey
> >
> >
>
>

pc

"patrick conroy"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

02/09/2004 4:12 PM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04...

> Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
> hours and frustrates the heck out of me,

You play half rounds with no cart, I see? :)

> I figure woodworking can turn into
> a better and less expensive hobby.
>

Sure..............................................
Yeah.............................................
Did the Mrs. buy that?



gG

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

03/09/2004 7:22 AM

"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04>...
> Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium for
> stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar guy
> that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to create
> something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts 4-5
> hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn into
> a better and less expensive hobby.
>
> I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual lumberyard.
> I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
> indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
> thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get comfortable
> using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few of
> the real basics to slowly gain comfort.

Hey Corey!

This describes me perfectly -

"white collar guy that works with numbers and computers all day that
has a earning to create something tangible and real"

Couple of personal questions, if you don't mind.

How old are you? Where do you live? Have you purchased any tools
yet?

I am 35. I live on Long Island. I became interested in woodworking
about 4 months ago and so far I have spent approx. $2,500 putting
together a modest shop in my basement.

Luckily for me there is a woodworking club (300+ members) right here
on LI. I've been attending their monthly meetings since June. GREAT
group of people!

I have all the same questions that you have -- what kind of wood,
where should I buy it, what tools do I need, what should I build???

I must say, before June of this year I think I underestimated the
complexity of woodworking -- there sure is a lot to learn.

If you come across any plans for simple projects, please e-mail me. I
will do the same.

Good luck!

Glen

Cc

"Corey"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

03/09/2004 9:20 PM

I'm 32, living in a central IL city of about 100K. I have a very beginner
shop/set of tools. Intro tools from gifts or inheritance. I'd rather not
drop a bundle into equipment before I'm sure I'll stick with it. That
actually is my wife talking than me though.

The local community college has a 6 week beginner course starting next week
that I might take. The class conflicts with my tennis lessons. But I can
move tennis to another night of the week for 6 weeks. That will probably
make me feel better - having some hands on demonstration and instruction.


"Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04>...
> > Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium
for
> > stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> > extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar
guy
> > that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to
create
> > something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> > hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts
4-5
> > hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn
into
> > a better and less expensive hobby.
> >
> > I figure I need to cut my teeth before I graduate to an actual
lumberyard.
> > I actually visited one today. But I didn't know what was good, bad, or
> > indifferent. I don't have planer or jointer yet. So that is why I was
> > thinking of leaning towards starting with the S4S stuff to get
comfortable
> > using the table saw, router, making joints, sanding, finishing - a few
of
> > the real basics to slowly gain comfort.
>
> Hey Corey!
>
> This describes me perfectly -
>
> "white collar guy that works with numbers and computers all day that
> has a earning to create something tangible and real"
>
> Couple of personal questions, if you don't mind.
>
> How old are you? Where do you live? Have you purchased any tools
> yet?
>
> I am 35. I live on Long Island. I became interested in woodworking
> about 4 months ago and so far I have spent approx. $2,500 putting
> together a modest shop in my basement.
>
> Luckily for me there is a woodworking club (300+ members) right here
> on LI. I've been attending their monthly meetings since June. GREAT
> group of people!
>
> I have all the same questions that you have -- what kind of wood,
> where should I buy it, what tools do I need, what should I build???
>
> I must say, before June of this year I think I underestimated the
> complexity of woodworking -- there sure is a lot to learn.
>
> If you come across any plans for simple projects, please e-mail me. I
> will do the same.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Glen

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Corey" on 03/09/2004 9:20 PM

03/09/2004 10:39 PM

Corey notes:

>The local community college has a 6 week beginner course starting next week
>that I might take. The class conflicts with my tennis lessons. But I can
>move tennis to another night of the week for 6 weeks. That will probably
>make me feel better - having some hands on demonstration and instruction

Take the course even if you have to forgo tennis lessons for a few weeks. It is
the absolute best way to learn if you'll like it or not, at very low cost.

Charlie Self
"I have always felt that a politician is to be judged by the animosities he
excites among his opponents." Sir Winston Churchill

nn

in reply to "Corey" on 03/09/2004 9:20 PM

04/09/2004 8:28 AM

AND look at the chance of meeting neighbors with similar interest!

On 03 Sep 2004 22:39:23 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:

>Take the course even if you have to forgo tennis lessons for a few weeks. It is
>the absolute best way to learn if you'll like it or not, at very low cost.

EP

"Edwin Pawlowski"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

04/09/2004 3:30 AM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> The local community college has a 6 week beginner course starting next
> week
> that I might take. The class conflicts with my tennis lessons. But I can
> move tennis to another night of the week for 6 weeks. That will probably
> make me feel better - having some hands on demonstration and instruction.

Take the course. I poked around, played around, read some magazines and a
book or two. Then I tool a four day basic course and learned more than the
previous year. With some basic instruction, you are less likely to get
frustrated and less likely to injure yourself. You will also have more
confidence when taking on a project.

Starting out, you don't need a lot of tools or the most expensive tools.
You do need to know how to use what you have though.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

pc

"patrick conroy"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 9:12 PM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06...
>
>
> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew
how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).

I'll go against the crowd and say this is a good idea. Buy S4S stock to
start with. Yeah, you're learning on expensive wood, but I think you'll have
more satisfaction in the end. Things will fit together better - and if they
don't you know to refine your skills on the tools you have. You'll know it
wasn't the stock.


>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).

Red Oak, Poplar or Maple. I'd avoid pine.
Again - this is going against the crowd - I'd start off by buying it at
Lowes, Home Depot, Sutherlands, etc. Just bear in mind, they charge a
premium for this S4S stock. Your first foot-stool, table, tool-holder is
going to be pretty expensive. At least you get to amortize the cost of the
tools... :)


>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
basic
> box, bookcase, ???

Yes - something square with 90* cuts. I had my hands full just learning how
to get things consistent: accurate and precise. If you browse the Lowes or
Minwax or some other wood-related sites, they'll often have free plans
categorized by Novice, Intermediate...

But - what ever you do - just start.

MM

"Mike Marlow"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

04/09/2004 1:53 PM


"Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<9LrZc.776$xr1.375@trnddc04>...
> > Regarding the price of wood, I know that I assumed I would pay a premium
for
> > stock from Lowes. And though my disposable income is not obscene, a few
> > extra bucks isn't going to hurt me in the beginning. I'm a white collar
guy
> > that works with numbers and computers all day that has a yearning to
create
> > something tangible and real. So I'm looking at doing this as a
> > hobby/interest. Compared to a $50 - $75 round of golf that only lasts
4-5
> > hours and frustrates the heck out of me, I figure woodworking can turn
into
> > a better and less expensive hobby.
> >
> Hey Corey!
>
> This describes me perfectly -
>
> "white collar guy that works with numbers and computers all day that
> has a earning to create something tangible and real"
>

Both of you guys - go out and buy the S4S and get doing something with it.
I'm in the same industry as you guys, but I'm a sales guy and the one thing
I can tell you already is that you're both more on the technical end as
evidenced by the methodical approach you're both taking. Just jump in there
boys and buy some lumber and build something. Even something bad, just
build it.

Now, it goes without saying that you will have to continue to invest in
toys... err, tools over time, but let's don't put the cart before the horse.
For now, just make sawdust and mistakes. While you're out there buying your
lumber, buy a decent hand plane. Don't get all carried away with what you
buy, and for pete's sake, don't ask on this forum which one to buy. You'll
never get any work done if you open that flood gate. Just go buy a plane
and then go to your local lumber supply and buy a piece of rough cut
schmorgus board. Take it home and plane it. Don't screw around with
sharpening you plane, don't screw around with anything. Just set your piece
of wood down and hit it with the plane with a very shallow cut. Now - touch
it. Makes ya wet don't it? Ok - lesson - you'll be surprised what you
don't need in order to do what you want to do. Talk about creating
something tangible and real. Hell, just hitting a piece of rough cut with a
plane and feeling that nice smooth surface is creation in itself. Oh, and
by the way... just as a side note, you can probably hand plane just about
any piece you will be working with in less time than it will take you to set
up an electric planer and achieve the same results. Ok, maybe a slight
overstatement there, but not much of one.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

Lr

"Leon"

in reply to "Corey" on 01/09/2004 6:13 PM

01/09/2004 7:26 PM


"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ejoZc.3033$_%3.1818@trnddc06...
> Brand, spankin' newbie here. My experience is limited to running some
> scrap
> framing 2x4s through the TS and router just to make sure I actually knew
> how
> to turn the machines on and alter the wood.
>
> My questions are on getting started.
>
> 1) I know the long-term rule would be to buy "unfinished" stock at a
> lumber
> yard and cut it down and joint and plane to my own dimensional needs. But
> as a beginner, would it be considered beneficial to use "finished" wood
> that
> is already planed and jointed and ready for use? I'm sure it is more
> expensive. But for starters, I was thinking I could become familiar with
> some of the basic tools and joinery before tackling unfinished stock (baby
> steps).

In wood working, "finished" normally referes to a protective finish added to
the wood surface. The word you are looking for here is surfaced wood.
Unless you have a jointer, a thickness planer, or plan to hand plane rough
cut wood, you want to buy surfaced wood. Surfaced wood is commonly referred
to as S4S, S3S, and S2S. S4S, "Surfaced 4 Sides", is lumber that is milled
to specific thicknesses and widths. Commonly Lowe's carries S4S lumber and
it is typically the most expensive.
Try to find your lumber at a lumber supply or lumber yard. These businesses
most often also offer S3S and S2S lumber. The S3S lumber has 1 straight
side, and the top and bottoms are surfaced. This wood is normally
considerably cheaper than S4S. S2S is typically a few cents cheaper than
S3S per board foot. Where I live, S3S lumber is about 5% more expensive
than rough cut lumber so I seldom buy rough cut if at all possible.

>
> 2) What wood would you recommend for a starter? The finished stock at the
> local Lowes is red oak, poplar, pine, and one other (can't remember right
> now).

Something cheap until you are ready to spend the extra money.
>
> 3) What kind of project would you recommend for a starter project? A
> basic
> box, bookcase, ???

Anything simple.



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