I used Tung oil once and had a rather bad experience. I used it on a nice
piece of Birch Plywood and it looked great while applying it. Now... after a
year it's still a little bit sticky and on the touch you can still smell tung
oil. I rubbed, I buffed.... for no avail.... Now.. Is danish oil
drying-hardening better ???
Well, best answer is - depends.
Danish oil can be tung or linseed - even soy - based. But it contains
driers and a bit of resin, too. Personally, I prefer non-tung oil because
of the smell you mention and the sort of cloudy look it gives. Wiping
varnishes, which you can buy or mix yourself, might be the best way to firm
up that surface.
"rsc" <itrisknadaspam@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:d90$40d5967c$44a4cef8$4122@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
> I used Tung oil once and had a rather bad experience. I used it on a nice
> piece of Birch Plywood and it looked great while applying it. Now... after
a
> year it's still a little bit sticky and on the touch you can still smell
tung
> oil. I rubbed, I buffed.... for no avail.... Now.. Is danish oil
> drying-hardening better ???
>
Not sure if you've ever looked, but the "penetrating" oil finishes don't go
very far. One ply is probably a limit.
"Mike G" <xmikegx@heirloom-woods.net> wrote in message
news:nI2dne1Bxsbglkvd4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> Which leads me to what I think is you main problem. In a word, plywood. A
> nice very thin piece of birch veneer laid over a non porous glue then some
> other wood and glue layers.
>
> The key words here is non porous glue. There is, for all practical
purposes,
> no wood for the oil to soak into. All it can do is sit there on top of
that
> non porous layer of glue and sulk.
Applies along the grain. Across, as in face grain, otherwise. And yes,
I've bandsawn some to check. Have you?
Nice try.
"Mike G" <xmikegx@heirloom-woods.net> wrote in message
news:LdedndsMLMRlfUvdRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> Obviously you've never looked. Wood will soak up any liquid too the
> saturation point if you give it access too enough of it. It's called
> capillary action.
>
> However, if you don't want to take my word for it try Bob Flexner's
> 'Understanding Wood Finishing"
>
> --
> Mike G.
> Heirloom Woods
> mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
> www.heirloom-woods.net
> "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> news:40d6b85f$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net...
> > Not sure if you've ever looked, but the "penetrating" oil finishes don't
> go
> > very far. One ply is probably a limit.
Y'know, your argument makes me wonder why we bother use solvents and/or heat
to reduce viscosity. OP didn't.
It's sort of a race, Mike, between dispersal - and the oil is too viscous to
disperse by capillary action on its own - and its increasing viscosity due
to cross-linking which blocks further dispersal. Y'see, if you knew much
about capillary action you'd know that the surface tension of the liquid and
the size of the capillary (opening) determine the rate and extent of the
action. What's designed to transport water just doesn't do oil that well,
especially as it clogs its own entrances so rapidly. Then, of course
there's the real action of oil - expansion of the cells - which, sad to say,
reduces the capillary size further. It is that action, however, which
imparts the only real protection oil gives to a surface - a bit of liquid
rejection. It's certainly not scratch-resistant. Why, you can scratch
right through to bright wood with no problem.
Wonder what solvent it would take to carry some information into your
head....
"Mike G" <xmikegx@heirloom-woods.net> wrote in message
news:HcKdnUdNQ5sbkkrdRVn-uA@comcast.com...
> It applies to all the grain, the wood doesn't care if the fluid enters
from
> the ends or the sides, the oil will be drawn along the length of the wood
> from the point of entry and until such time as the wood is saturated or
the
> supply is gone.
>
> Apply the oil to a thin piece of veneer as you would solid wood and the
> whole surface will be immediately saturated since it has nowhere to go and
> it will bleed out and remain sticky for some time.
>
> Ah, but I forgot, you're an "expert". Read that, any kind of stupid
argument
> is viable to prove you right. Moron!
I ran into two problems. Both root of a solid miss application of tung oil.
1. I thought I can build up a sheen.
2. I used plywood.
I used mineral oil to wash of the excess which was still causing my problems
(not much) A rag soaked into mineral spirits and a gentle rub got rid of the
excess. Then I used a rub on varnish. That cured nicely over night and I will
apply another layer next weekend after 0000'ing it. Already looks better and
close to what I wanted to achieve in the first place.....
Thanks for your comments!
Rainer
PS: Any recommendations for wood dye ???
Once oil gets soaked into the wood from the sides and enough liquid is
supplied,capillary action is quite capable of transmitting it the fluid up
and down the length of the stock. It DOES NOT have to enter from the ends.
Mercury may have a viscosity to resist the action but finishing oils do not.
That is why I added the reference, so I didn't have to get into a prolonged
stupid argument. READ IT, you don't like it drop a line to Bob Flexner or
better yet test it yourself.
And no shit the glue is a barrier, that's why I responded to the OP. READ
IT.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
www.heirloom-woods.net
"J. Clarke" <jclarke@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:cb6t5h028bk@news4.newsguy.com...
> Mike G wrote:
>
> > Obviously you've never looked. Wood will soak up any liquid too the
> > saturation point if you give it access too enough of it. It's called
> > capillary action.
>
> Capillary action works parallel to the grain, not perpendicular, and in
any
> case plywood has barriers of plastic ("glue" they call it) between the
> plies.
>
> Further, whether wood will soak up a particular liquid "to the saturation
> point" depends on the surface tension and viscosity of the liquid.
>
> > However, if you don't want to take my word for it try Bob Flexner's
> > 'Understanding Wood Finishing"
> >
>
> --
> --John
> Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
It applies to all the grain, the wood doesn't care if the fluid enters from
the ends or the sides, the oil will be drawn along the length of the wood
from the point of entry and until such time as the wood is saturated or the
supply is gone.
Apply the oil to a thin piece of veneer as you would solid wood and the
whole surface will be immediately saturated since it has nowhere to go and
it will bleed out and remain sticky for some time.
Ah, but I forgot, you're an "expert". Read that, any kind of stupid argument
is viable to prove you right. Moron!
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
www.heirloom-woods.net
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:40d6f236_3@newspeer2.tds.net...
> Applies along the grain. Across, as in face grain, otherwise. And yes,
> I've bandsawn some to check. Have you?
>
> Nice try.
>
>
> "Mike G" <xmikegx@heirloom-woods.net> wrote in message
> news:LdedndsMLMRlfUvdRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> > Obviously you've never looked. Wood will soak up any liquid too the
> > saturation point if you give it access too enough of it. It's called
> > capillary action.
> >
> > However, if you don't want to take my word for it try Bob Flexner's
> > 'Understanding Wood Finishing"
> >
> > --
> > Mike G.
> > Heirloom Woods
> > mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
> > www.heirloom-woods.net
> > "George" <george@least> wrote in message
> > news:40d6b85f$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net...
> > > Not sure if you've ever looked, but the "penetrating" oil finishes
don't
> > go
> > > very far. One ply is probably a limit.
>
>
Obviously you've never looked. Wood will soak up any liquid too the
saturation point if you give it access too enough of it. It's called
capillary action.
However, if you don't want to take my word for it try Bob Flexner's
'Understanding Wood Finishing"
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
www.heirloom-woods.net
"George" <george@least> wrote in message
news:40d6b85f$1_2@newspeer2.tds.net...
> Not sure if you've ever looked, but the "penetrating" oil finishes don't
go
> very far. One ply is probably a limit.
>
> "Mike G" <xmikegx@heirloom-woods.net> wrote in message
> news:nI2dne1Bxsbglkvd4p2dnA@comcast.com...
> > Which leads me to what I think is you main problem. In a word, plywood.
A
> > nice very thin piece of birch veneer laid over a non porous glue then
some
> > other wood and glue layers.
> >
> > The key words here is non porous glue. There is, for all practical
> purposes,
> > no wood for the oil to soak into. All it can do is sit there on top of
> that
> > non porous layer of glue and sulk.
>
>
rsc <itrisknadaspam@gmx.net> wrote in
news:4d25f$40d71f2e$44a4cef8$30112@msgid.meganewsservers.com:
> I ran into two problems. Both root of a solid miss application of tung
> oil.
>
> 1. I thought I can build up a sheen.
> 2. I used plywood.
>
> I used mineral oil to wash of the excess which was still causing my
> problems (not much) A rag soaked into mineral spirits and a gentle rub
> got rid of the excess. Then I used a rub on varnish. That cured nicely
> over night and I will apply another layer next weekend after 0000'ing
> it. Already looks better and close to what I wanted to achieve in the
> first place.....
>
> Thanks for your comments!
>
> Rainer
>
> PS: Any recommendations for wood dye ???
>
Not at this point.
Patriarch
Yup; that's what I figured. Notwithstanding all the discussion on capillary
action and glue barriers, the real problem (as often happens) was what was not
initially posted: he tried to build up a sheen with oil. But I guess that's
better than having blocked capillaries:-)
Especially as Tung oil takes a long time to cure, and far longer yet if it
penetrates deeply, and you don't know if he thinned it, and don't know the
wood or the ambient temperature, so there's no way of telling if the oil will
cure and clog the wood before it penetrates entirely through, which won't
happen anyway since this is plywood, so please delete this entire paragraph
and go cut some wood:-)
As an aside, one can build up a low sheen with oil, but that's more involved
and takes us off topic a bit.
Now, regarding the dye, is this for new wood or maybe that already oiled wood?
In either case, what type of wood and what top coat, or what do you want to
achieve in the end? Without knowing that, any response is purely a shot in the
dark.
GerryG
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004 13:51:10 -0400, rsc <itrisknadaspam@gmx.net> wrote:
>I ran into two problems. Both root of a solid miss application of tung oil.
>
>1. I thought I can build up a sheen.
>2. I used plywood.
>
>I used mineral oil to wash of the excess which was still causing my problems
>(not much) A rag soaked into mineral spirits and a gentle rub got rid of the
>excess. Then I used a rub on varnish. That cured nicely over night and I will
>apply another layer next weekend after 0000'ing it. Already looks better and
>close to what I wanted to achieve in the first place.....
>
>Thanks for your comments!
>
>Rainer
>
>PS: Any recommendations for wood dye ???
Mike G wrote:
> Obviously you've never looked. Wood will soak up any liquid too the
> saturation point if you give it access too enough of it. It's called
> capillary action.
Capillary action works parallel to the grain, not perpendicular, and in any
case plywood has barriers of plastic ("glue" they call it) between the
plies.
Further, whether wood will soak up a particular liquid "to the saturation
point" depends on the surface tension and viscosity of the liquid.
> However, if you don't want to take my word for it try Bob Flexner's
> 'Understanding Wood Finishing"
>
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Mike G wrote:
> It applies to all the grain, the wood doesn't care if the fluid enters
> from the ends or the sides, the oil will be drawn along the length of the
> wood from the point of entry and until such time as the wood is saturated
> or the supply is gone.
>
> Apply the oil to a thin piece of veneer as you would solid wood and the
> whole surface will be immediately saturated since it has nowhere to go and
> it will bleed out and remain sticky for some time.
So let's see, I apply one drop of oil to a thin piece of veneer and in a
time too small to measure it becomes saturated? Do tell.
> Ah, but I forgot, you're an "expert". Read that, any kind of stupid
> argument is viable to prove you right. Moron!
Ah, name calling, the first resort of the terminally ignorant.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Before I get to where I THINK your big problem is I trust that when you
rubbed... buffed to no avail you are talking about rubbing and buffing off
all the excess oil at the time of application and not now, a year later.
Oil finishes, Danish oil included, is not a building surface finish, it is a
finish meant to soak into the wood and cure there, with no real build up on
the surface of the wood. Try to build an oil finish and most times it gets
just like what you have now.
Which leads me to what I think is you main problem. In a word, plywood. A
nice very thin piece of birch veneer laid over a non porous glue then some
other wood and glue layers.
The key words here is non porous glue. There is, for all practical purposes,
no wood for the oil to soak into. All it can do is sit there on top of that
non porous layer of glue and sulk.
Your bad experience with oil is most likely due too a miss application of
the finish.
My suggestion. Get a lot of mineral spirits and rags and wipe off all the
oil you can get off then apply a real surface finish. Though, after some
dedicated wiping, you may end up with a serviceable surface. Who knows.
No, in the case of plywood, while performance may be marginally better, it's
still a miss application and will probably give you the same problem.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
mikeg@heirloom-woods.net
www.heirloom-woods.net
"rsc" <itrisknadaspam@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:d90$40d5967c$44a4cef8$4122@msgid.meganewsservers.com...
> I used Tung oil once and had a rather bad experience. I used it on a nice
> piece of Birch Plywood and it looked great while applying it. Now... after
a
> year it's still a little bit sticky and on the touch you can still smell
tung
> oil. I rubbed, I buffed.... for no avail.... Now.. Is danish oil
> drying-hardening better ???
>