Now that I've got a 1100cfm dust collector and started to set it up, I
think it's ridiculous what these guys get for a wye fitting and other
supplies. For 6"x6"x5" metal fitting, Oneia gets around $30, and
that's for the cheap one!
So last night I broke out the tin snips, rivet gun, and air powered
cutoff wheel, and fabricated one for myself. It works quite well, and
I can make two wyes from 2' sections of 6" and 5" 26 ga pipe that I
bought at Home Depot for around $10. So these are costing me $5 each,
and it only took about 1/2 hour to make them! I even made a manifold
where 6" pipe was split into another 6" and a 5".
If anyone is interested, here's what I did:
I took each a 2' piece of 6" and 5" and cut them in half, each 1'
long. I determined which way the airflow was going to go (I want the
air to flow in the direction toward the crimped end).
I took the 5" piece, and marked the end of it with a sharpie at every
90 degrees. Then I measured the distance between each 90 deg mark.
With that distance, I marked the distance from the end of pipe, up the
length of it, and connected opposite marks to that mark, so basically
I had a triangle. I snipped out the piece with the tin snips.
I then test fitted the piece at a 45 deg angle to the 6" pipe, and
with some trial and error I was able to snip the 5" piece until it fit
snugly against the 6" pipe. Once it was a tight fit, I traced the
outline of the 5" onto the 6".
With that outline, I then traced another outline approx 1.5" inside
the larger trace. I cut that inside piece out with my cuttoff tool.
Then about every 1-3" depending on the arc, I made a straight cut to
the original trace line, and bent the tabs outward slightly.
Got the drill and rivit gun out, and placed the 5" over the tabs,
bending the tabs to the appropriate amount to sit flush with the 5"
tube on the inside, and place a couple of rivits through the tabs to
hold it in place. Then I finished bending all the tabs as to create a
tight fit. With only 2 or 3 rivets, I have a very solid piece.
Once I have the system together, I'll either silicon or use aluminum
tape to seal this thing off.
Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
Anyone else ever do any of this?
>> And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
>>dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
I have a section of the 4" metal hose running between my drill press
and it's blast gate. I really like it for this application!
The stuff is cheap, so I won't cry if I have to replace it. In use,
it's great, you can bend it and it'll stay where you point it. This
makes it excellent for a drill press.
Come to think of it, it might also work for a CMS/SCMS.
Well, I still don't understand why everyone is running out and buying
the spiral duct. this is dust collection NOT creating a vacuum chamber.
I have the light gage 6" duct (from the borg) running in my shop on a
2HP woodtek DC. As a test before I piped it all in I put 5 sections
together, taped the joints and connected directly to the input on the
DC. Straight shot no pressure drop. You could suck the fur off a cat
with that setup. took a small piece of plywood and stapled a piece of
closed cell foam to the surface and placed it over the end of the pipe,
repeatedly. tried covering 80% of pipe, tried 50%. didn't matter what
I did there was no collapsing of the duct, no additional wrinkles no
indication anywhere that there would be a problem. It has now been in
use for 18months without any problem. I found "Y"s at the borg. this
is DUST collection not rocket science. This winter I will build a
cyclone and upgrade the impeller but I still don't foresee a problem
with the duct work.
does anyone have a pressure reading from a running system? I would be
interested in knowing what pressure is actually there.
BRuce
Larry Bud wrote:
> Now that I've got a 1100cfm dust collector and started to set it up, I
> think it's ridiculous what these guys get for a wye fitting and other
> supplies. For 6"x6"x5" metal fitting, Oneia gets around $30, and
> that's for the cheap one!
>
> So last night I broke out the tin snips, rivet gun, and air powered
> cutoff wheel, and fabricated one for myself. It works quite well, and
> I can make two wyes from 2' sections of 6" and 5" 26 ga pipe that I
> bought at Home Depot for around $10. So these are costing me $5 each,
> and it only took about 1/2 hour to make them! I even made a manifold
> where 6" pipe was split into another 6" and a 5".
>
> If anyone is interested, here's what I did:
>
> I took each a 2' piece of 6" and 5" and cut them in half, each 1'
> long. I determined which way the airflow was going to go (I want the
> air to flow in the direction toward the crimped end).
>
> I took the 5" piece, and marked the end of it with a sharpie at every
> 90 degrees. Then I measured the distance between each 90 deg mark.
> With that distance, I marked the distance from the end of pipe, up the
> length of it, and connected opposite marks to that mark, so basically
> I had a triangle. I snipped out the piece with the tin snips.
>
> I then test fitted the piece at a 45 deg angle to the 6" pipe, and
> with some trial and error I was able to snip the 5" piece until it fit
> snugly against the 6" pipe. Once it was a tight fit, I traced the
> outline of the 5" onto the 6".
>
> With that outline, I then traced another outline approx 1.5" inside
> the larger trace. I cut that inside piece out with my cuttoff tool.
> Then about every 1-3" depending on the arc, I made a straight cut to
> the original trace line, and bent the tabs outward slightly.
>
> Got the drill and rivit gun out, and placed the 5" over the tabs,
> bending the tabs to the appropriate amount to sit flush with the 5"
> tube on the inside, and place a couple of rivits through the tabs to
> hold it in place. Then I finished bending all the tabs as to create a
> tight fit. With only 2 or 3 rivets, I have a very solid piece.
>
> Once I have the system together, I'll either silicon or use aluminum
> tape to seal this thing off.
>
> Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
> and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
> dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
>
> Anyone else ever do any of this?
--
---
BRuce
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Now that I've got a 1100cfm dust collector and started to set it up, I
> think it's ridiculous what these guys get for a wye fitting and other
> supplies. For 6"x6"x5" metal fitting, Oneia gets around $30, and
> that's for the cheap one!
>
... snip
> Anyone else ever do any of this?
>
Haven't tried that. I need a whole bunch of Y's, I'm not sure I have
that many 30 minutes available. I certainly agree about the high price
of ductwork. I am trying to upgrade from my current 4" flex hose (that
is killing the flow of my system) to 5" duct. So far, Oneida seems to
be the best price, but that is still way more than I ever expected to
pay for ductwork. Anybody know of an HVAC supplier in or near Tucson
that might have 5" spiral duct and round Y's?
Bay Area Dave <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Larry, is that dryer hose smooth on the inside?
>
No, it's not.
B a r r y B u r k e J r . <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 3 Oct 2003 11:22:30 -0700, [email protected] (Larry Bud)
> wrote:
>
>
> >Anyone else ever do any of this?
>
>
> No, I just used $1.95 PVC fittings. The buzz from the glue was a
> bonus. <G>
I contemplated PVC, but couldn't find anything readily available larger than 4".
> As far a the fitting purchased at Oneida or from other sources.
> Are they "dovetailed" as in the kind you made or do they have some type of
> beaded joint?
Not sure, I didn't buy one.
> The machines that make them are costly.I imagine the components are either
> stamped or plasma cut.Costly also.
> I'm sure the sore bought fittings create less turbulence in the duct work
> making for a more efficient system.
> It's much like the cost of a computer program or an album on a CD.
> The plastic CD may cost a $.25.
> The work and equipment that goes into manufacturing it is where the initial
> outlay comes from.
Yes, I understand that. But I have to imagine that the same machines
cut the T's that you can buy for half price of a "Y".
I quite agree that the prices of these dust collection fittings are
ridiculous. The company I work for deals with pneumatic conveying equipment.
We can purchase 14 guage aluminum tube and fittings for much less then the
plastic crap they sell at the WW stores.
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Now that I've got a 1100cfm dust collector and started to set it up, I
> think it's ridiculous what these guys get for a wye fitting and other
> supplies. For 6"x6"x5" metal fitting, Oneia gets around $30, and
> that's for the cheap one!
>
> So last night I broke out the tin snips, rivet gun, and air powered
> cutoff wheel, and fabricated one for myself. It works quite well, and
> I can make two wyes from 2' sections of 6" and 5" 26 ga pipe that I
> bought at Home Depot for around $10. So these are costing me $5 each,
> and it only took about 1/2 hour to make them! I even made a manifold
> where 6" pipe was split into another 6" and a 5".
>
> If anyone is interested, here's what I did:
>
> I took each a 2' piece of 6" and 5" and cut them in half, each 1'
> long. I determined which way the airflow was going to go (I want the
> air to flow in the direction toward the crimped end).
>
> I took the 5" piece, and marked the end of it with a sharpie at every
> 90 degrees. Then I measured the distance between each 90 deg mark.
> With that distance, I marked the distance from the end of pipe, up the
> length of it, and connected opposite marks to that mark, so basically
> I had a triangle. I snipped out the piece with the tin snips.
>
> I then test fitted the piece at a 45 deg angle to the 6" pipe, and
> with some trial and error I was able to snip the 5" piece until it fit
> snugly against the 6" pipe. Once it was a tight fit, I traced the
> outline of the 5" onto the 6".
>
> With that outline, I then traced another outline approx 1.5" inside
> the larger trace. I cut that inside piece out with my cuttoff tool.
> Then about every 1-3" depending on the arc, I made a straight cut to
> the original trace line, and bent the tabs outward slightly.
>
> Got the drill and rivit gun out, and placed the 5" over the tabs,
> bending the tabs to the appropriate amount to sit flush with the 5"
> tube on the inside, and place a couple of rivits through the tabs to
> hold it in place. Then I finished bending all the tabs as to create a
> tight fit. With only 2 or 3 rivets, I have a very solid piece.
>
> Once I have the system together, I'll either silicon or use aluminum
> tape to seal this thing off.
>
> Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
> and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
> dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
>
> Anyone else ever do any of this?
Larry, is that dryer hose smooth on the inside?
dave
Larry Bud wrote:
snip
>
> Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
> and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
> dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
>
> Anyone else ever do any of this?
In article <1065274275.140161@sj-nntpcache-5>, BRuce <BRuce> says...
> Well, I still don't understand why everyone is running out and buying
> the spiral duct. this is dust collection NOT creating a vacuum chamber.
> I have the light gage 6" duct (from the borg) running in my shop on a
> 2HP woodtek DC. As a test before I piped it all in I put 5 sections
> together, taped the joints and connected directly to the input on the
> DC. Straight shot no pressure drop. You could suck the fur off a cat
> with that setup. took a small piece of plywood and stapled a piece of
> closed cell foam to the surface and placed it over the end of the pipe,
> repeatedly. tried covering 80% of pipe, tried 50%. didn't matter what
> I did there was no collapsing of the duct, no additional wrinkles no
> indication anywhere that there would be a problem. It has now been in
> use for 18months without any problem. I found "Y"s at the borg. this
> is DUST collection not rocket science. This winter I will build a
> cyclone and upgrade the impeller but I still don't foresee a problem
> with the duct work.
>
> does anyone have a pressure reading from a running system? I would be
> interested in knowing what pressure is actually there.
>
> BRuce
My problem is not with whether I use spiral or snap-lock, my problem
is that I need 5" ductwork. My DC is a 790 CFM collector, and with
static pressure drops outside the trash can cyclone, the velocity in 6"
duct is not high enough and static pressure drop in 4" duct work is too
high -- 5" seems to be the sweet spot between velocity and static
pressure drop.
>Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
>and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
>dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
it is aluminum I think and pretty flimsy. tends to bend and kink and dent a lot.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
On 3 Oct 2003 11:22:30 -0700, [email protected] (Larry Bud)
wrote:
>Anyone else ever do any of this?
No, I just used $1.95 PVC fittings. The buzz from the glue was a
bonus. <G>
Barry
The type of fitting you made and pretty much the way you made it is done
every day by HVAC installers.
Congratulations!
As far a the fitting purchased at Oneida or from other sources.
Are they "dovetailed" as in the kind you made or do they have some type of
beaded joint?
The machines that make them are costly.I imagine the components are either
stamped or plasma cut.Costly also.
I'm sure the sore bought fittings create less turbulence in the duct work
making for a more efficient system.
It's much like the cost of a computer program or an album on a CD.
The plastic CD may cost a $.25.
The work and equipment that goes into manufacturing it is where the initial
outlay comes from.
Don't get me wrong,I agree with your methods and admire your ingenuity.
I work in the HVAC field.I get galled when I see what people pay for
fittings and pipe.
For those who cant find 5" pipe,you can make it out of 6" just cut the male
part of the snap lock off in a straight line after you figure out what the
straight line dimension is.Tape it together.
Again congratulations!
"Larry Bud" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Now that I've got a 1100cfm dust collector and started to set it up, I
> think it's ridiculous what these guys get for a wye fitting and other
> supplies. For 6"x6"x5" metal fitting, Oneia gets around $30, and
> that's for the cheap one!
>
> So last night I broke out the tin snips, rivet gun, and air powered
> cutoff wheel, and fabricated one for myself. It works quite well, and
> I can make two wyes from 2' sections of 6" and 5" 26 ga pipe that I
> bought at Home Depot for around $10. So these are costing me $5 each,
> and it only took about 1/2 hour to make them! I even made a manifold
> where 6" pipe was split into another 6" and a 5".
>
> If anyone is interested, here's what I did:
>
> I took each a 2' piece of 6" and 5" and cut them in half, each 1'
> long. I determined which way the airflow was going to go (I want the
> air to flow in the direction toward the crimped end).
>
> I took the 5" piece, and marked the end of it with a sharpie at every
> 90 degrees. Then I measured the distance between each 90 deg mark.
> With that distance, I marked the distance from the end of pipe, up the
> length of it, and connected opposite marks to that mark, so basically
> I had a triangle. I snipped out the piece with the tin snips.
>
> I then test fitted the piece at a 45 deg angle to the 6" pipe, and
> with some trial and error I was able to snip the 5" piece until it fit
> snugly against the 6" pipe. Once it was a tight fit, I traced the
> outline of the 5" onto the 6".
>
> With that outline, I then traced another outline approx 1.5" inside
> the larger trace. I cut that inside piece out with my cuttoff tool.
> Then about every 1-3" depending on the arc, I made a straight cut to
> the original trace line, and bent the tabs outward slightly.
>
> Got the drill and rivit gun out, and placed the 5" over the tabs,
> bending the tabs to the appropriate amount to sit flush with the 5"
> tube on the inside, and place a couple of rivits through the tabs to
> hold it in place. Then I finished bending all the tabs as to create a
> tight fit. With only 2 or 3 rivets, I have a very solid piece.
>
> Once I have the system together, I'll either silicon or use aluminum
> tape to seal this thing off.
>
> Not that all of my ductwork was bought from Home Depot. It's 26 ga,
> and plenty strong. And for shits and giggles, I bought a 6" flexible
> dryer hose, and it's strong enough too! Plus it's metal!
>
> Anyone else ever do any of this?
On Sat, 04 Oct 2003 02:27:13 GMT, Mark & Juanita <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Haven't tried that. I need a whole bunch of Y's, I'm not sure I have
>that many 30 minutes available. I certainly agree about the high price
>of ductwork. I am trying to upgrade from my current 4" flex hose (that
>is killing the flow of my system) to 5" duct. So far, Oneida seems to
>be the best price, but that is still way more than I ever expected to
>pay for ductwork. Anybody know of an HVAC supplier in or near Tucson
>that might have 5" spiral duct and round Y's?
I got all my metal pipe at the borg they had the thinner pipe but if you dig you
found the better stuff. the fittings are a bit flimsy but work fine. if you
don't strain them while installing it.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My problem is not with whether I use spiral or snap-lock, my problem
> is that I need 5" ductwork. My DC is a 790 CFM collector, and with
> static pressure drops outside the trash can cyclone, the velocity in 6"
> duct is not high enough and static pressure drop in 4" duct work is too
> high -- 5" seems to be the sweet spot between velocity and static
> pressure drop.
5" snap lock is available, but probably not at the Borg. Call a local HVAC
shop and get a price from them. Probably will be cheaper than the Borg too.
Have you tried 6"? My bet is in the main run the velocity will be just fine
to keep the dust moving. Run 6" mains, 4" drops.
Greg