I know that TB III is waterproof. But will it stand up to freeze/thaw
cycles in an exterior application? I have a 75" brick opening in which I am
going to replace a patio door, which requires a 72" RO.
I am going to tear out the nasty-looking framing in there now, and redo it
with some nice poplar. I was thinking of taking 2 1"x8" by poplar boards
and putting a nice graduated routed edge on each of them, and then gluing
them together, such that I'd have 1.5" on each side of the opening, bringing
it down to 72".
Will the glue hold the pieces together? Of course I'll tack and screw them
as well, but I want them to look like one piece with no separation. The
area is covered by a large overhang, so it only gets splashed rain from the
patio, hardly ever direct rain.
Should I consider a polyurethane glue instead?
On Aug 5, 2:43 pm, "Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I know that TB III is waterproof. But will it stand up to freeze/thaw
> cycles in an exterior application? I have a 75" brick opening in which I am
> going to replace a patio door, which requires a 72" RO.
>
> I am going to tear out the nasty-looking framing in there now, and redo it
> with some nice poplar. I was thinking of taking 2 1"x8" by poplar boards
> and putting a nice graduated routed edge on each of them, and then gluing
> them together, such that I'd have 1.5" on each side of the opening, bringing
> it down to 72".
>
> Will the glue hold the pieces together? Of course I'll tack and screw them
> as well, but I want them to look like one piece with no separation. The
> area is covered by a large overhang, so it only gets splashed rain from the
> patio, hardly ever direct rain.
>
> Should I consider a polyurethane glue instead?
Poly would set stronger to concrete due to moisture content. I
rebuilt
a cellar window case with Elmer's Pro-Bond poly ten years ago, and
it's as good as the day I glued it in.
Would solvent (not water!) based Liquid Nails work?
On Aug 6, 7:51 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Buck Turgidson wrote:
> > "spaco" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> The glue aside, poplar would be close to the bottom of my list for
> >> an exterior opening.
>
> > What would be at the top?
>
> Greenheart
> Teak
> Black locust
> Redwood
> Western red cedar
>
> or, take your pick...http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/misc/holzart.htm
Preprimed fascia board.
The glue aside, poplar would be close to the bottom of my list for an
exterior opening.
Pete Stanaitis
----------------------
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I know that TB III is waterproof. But will it stand up to freeze/thaw
> cycles in an exterior application? I have a 75" brick opening in which I am
> going to replace a patio door, which requires a 72" RO.
>
> I am going to tear out the nasty-looking framing in there now, and redo it
> with some nice poplar. I was thinking of taking 2 1"x8" by poplar boards
> and putting a nice graduated routed edge on each of them, and then gluing
> them together, such that I'd have 1.5" on each side of the opening, bringing
> it down to 72".
>
> Will the glue hold the pieces together? Of course I'll tack and screw them
> as well, but I want them to look like one piece with no separation. The
> area is covered by a large overhang, so it only gets splashed rain from the
> patio, hardly ever direct rain.
>
> Should I consider a polyurethane glue instead?
>
>
> For that it will probably be fine. I'm assuming it will then be
> painted? If so, the color shouldn't be an issue.
>
> I'm not that enamored w/ poplar as the wood choice, though. Even if there
> isn't any direct water exposure, I'm assuming this is in contact w/ the
> cement patio and poplar isn't very good at all for moisture resistance.
Yes, painted white. Anything else, other than poplar, like oak? I looked
at pressure treated, but it was waaay too rough and gnarly, even the #1
grade lumber.
On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 16:17:42 -0500, spaco <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The glue aside, poplar would be close to the bottom of my list for an
>exterior opening.
Same here.
I'd probably use a plastic trim "board", white oak (not red), cedar,
or some other suitable wood for exterior trim. Poplar doesn't stand
up to weather or bugs well at all.
If it's painted, I really like the plastic exterior millwork.
---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> I know that TB III is waterproof. But will it stand up to freeze/thaw
> cycles in an exterior application? I have a 75" brick opening in which I am
> going to replace a patio door, which requires a 72" RO.
>
> I am going to tear out the nasty-looking framing in there now, and redo it
> with some nice poplar. I was thinking of taking 2 1"x8" by poplar boards
> and putting a nice graduated routed edge on each of them, and then gluing
> them together, such that I'd have 1.5" on each side of the opening, bringing
> it down to 72".
>
> Will the glue hold the pieces together? Of course I'll tack and screw them
> as well, but I want them to look like one piece with no separation. The
> area is covered by a large overhang, so it only gets splashed rain from the
> patio, hardly ever direct rain.
>
> Should I consider a polyurethane glue instead?
For that it will probably be fine. I'm assuming it will then be
painted? If so, the color shouldn't be an issue.
I'm not that enamored w/ poplar as the wood choice, though. Even if
there isn't any direct water exposure, I'm assuming this is in contact
w/ the cement patio and poplar isn't very good at all for moisture
resistance.
--
Buck Turgidson wrote:
>> For that it will probably be fine. I'm assuming it will then be
>> painted? If so, the color shouldn't be an issue.
>>
>> I'm not that enamored w/ poplar as the wood choice, though. Even if there
>> isn't any direct water exposure, I'm assuming this is in contact w/ the
>> cement patio and poplar isn't very good at all for moisture resistance.
>
>
> Yes, painted white. Anything else, other than poplar, like oak? I looked
> at pressure treated, but it was waaay too rough and gnarly, even the #1
> grade lumber.
Pine, fir would be my first choice. If there's a section against
concrete or masonry that could be covered w/ moulding, I'd strongly
consider a 1x treated for that w/ a surface finish layer for the
interior/visual portion(s)...
--
"spaco" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The glue aside, poplar would be close to the bottom of my list for an
> exterior opening.
What would be at the top?
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> "spaco" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> The glue aside, poplar would be close to the bottom of my list for
>> an exterior opening.
>
>
> What would be at the top?
Greenheart
Teak
Black locust
Redwood
Western red cedar
or, take your pick...
http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/misc/holzart.htm
--
dadiOH
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