I began finishing a toy box last night (white pine, 18x18x36) with
Watco Danish Oil. I bought a quart can for just that purpose last
week.
Apparently, a quart won't be enough. I put about 2/3 of the can on it
last night, and I'm still not seeing much buildup. For the first bunch
of coats, I rubbed it on (the finish) with a rag, and by the time I
made it back to the start, the oil had been completely absorbed by the
wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush.
For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely
absorbed. For the second, I let it sit for 45 minutes, and I wiped the
toybox down. There was only a little bit of oil on the rag.
For danish oil, should one follow the 'once a day for a week, once a
week et cetera' adage, or is that for "real" oils only? Am I over the
hump, or is this toybox going to keep drinking oil like I drink coffee?
Thanks,
-Phil Crow
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I began finishing a toy box last night (white pine, 18x18x36) with
> Watco Danish Oil. I bought a quart can for just that purpose last
> week.
>
> Apparently, a quart won't be enough. I put about 2/3 of the can on it
> last night, and I'm still not seeing much buildup. For the first bunch
> of coats, I rubbed it on (the finish) with a rag, and by the time I
> made it back to the start, the oil had been completely absorbed by the
> wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush.
> For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely
> absorbed. For the second, I let it sit for 45 minutes, and I wiped the
> toybox down. There was only a little bit of oil on the rag.
>
> For danish oil, should one follow the 'once a day for a week, once a
> week et cetera' adage, or is that for "real" oils only? Am I over the
> hump, or is this toybox going to keep drinking oil like I drink coffee?
>
> Thanks,
> -Phil Crow
Its a little late but pine will soak up oil finishes like a sponge. In the
future, use a coat of thinned shellac or a sanding sealer first.
Dave
> phildcrow wrote:
>....Watco Danish Oil..... not seeing much buildup..... completely absorbed by the
> >wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush.
> >For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely
> >absorbed.
> >-Phil Crow
>
Ray wrote:
> I now mix my own....
> 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 either odorless mineral spirits or
> turpentine, and 1/3 varnish or polyurethane. To get a faster
> built the next one or two coats are half that mix with half
> varnish (1/6 BLO, 1/6 thinner, 2/3 varnish). You can play
> with this ratio to get what you want. The final coat is the
> same as the first. I apply with sandpaper starting at 220
> grit working up to 600. Wipe clean after each coat.
>
> What I don't like about Watco is
> they don't use deodorized mineral spirits and I can't stand
> the smell. I like the smell of turpentine and it seems to
> work a little better than the mineral spirits.
> Ray
I've also been down that road. more and more I'm tending to get the oil
out of the finish and go with turpentine/varnish blends for topcoats
and use watco as a stain only. if you need the flexibility of oil, like
for parts that bend in use, use spar for the varnish. with the varnish
thinned enough you can get the same penetration as watco, with faster
drying and better build.
"Who" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> What I don't like about Watco is
> they don't use deodorized mineral spirits and I can't stand
> the smell. I like the smell of turpentine and it seems to
> work a little better than the mineral spirits.
>
> I have some projects that I have done 30+ years ago.
> With what was Watco then (formula has changed over
> the years) seems to have held up well. I do put a coat
> of wax on top. A new wax job every couple years keeps
> everything looking good. I think the oiling schedule
> you quote is for plain oil without the varnish or polyurethane.
Friend told me the regular WATCO had gone back to phenolic resin, versus
alkyd under Thompson-Minwax. Anyone have a can around to read the back? I
liked the phenolic.
I gave up I did use the conditioner first as you need to with pine it just
looked nasty and splotchy. After talking to a cabinet shop I went to a
differnt stain and got pretty much the results I wanted. I still have all
the Watco I purchased I have not used it on anything since it just doesn't
cover worth a darn.
Al
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I began finishing a toy box last night (white pine, 18x18x36) with
> Watco Danish Oil. I bought a quart can for just that purpose last
> week.
>
> Apparently, a quart won't be enough. I put about 2/3 of the can on it
> last night, and I'm still not seeing much buildup. For the first bunch
> of coats, I rubbed it on (the finish) with a rag, and by the time I
> made it back to the start, the oil had been completely absorbed by the
> wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush.
> For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely
> absorbed. For the second, I let it sit for 45 minutes, and I wiped the
> toybox down. There was only a little bit of oil on the rag.
>
> For danish oil, should one follow the 'once a day for a week, once a
> week et cetera' adage, or is that for "real" oils only? Am I over the
> hump, or is this toybox going to keep drinking oil like I drink coffee?
>
> Thanks,
> -Phil Crow
>
On 20 Apr 2006 06:07:28 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I began finishing a toy box last night (white pine, 18x18x36) with
>Watco Danish Oil. I bought a quart can for just that purpose last
>week.
>
>Apparently, a quart won't be enough. I put about 2/3 of the can on it
>last night, and I'm still not seeing much buildup. For the first bunch
>of coats, I rubbed it on (the finish) with a rag, and by the time I
>made it back to the start, the oil had been completely absorbed by the
>wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush.
>For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely
>absorbed. For the second, I let it sit for 45 minutes, and I wiped the
>toybox down. There was only a little bit of oil on the rag.
>
>For danish oil, should one follow the 'once a day for a week, once a
>week et cetera' adage, or is that for "real" oils only? Am I over the
>hump, or is this toybox going to keep drinking oil like I drink coffee?
>
>Thanks,
>-Phil Crow
In the past I have used Watco oil on pine and on hard woods.
I found it took about a half dozen coats to get a good finish.
My experience was to let the first coat sit for a couple days
to a week to let it polymerize somewhat so the next coats don't
soak in quite as much. I now mix my own. For a start I use
1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 either odorless mineral spirits or
turpentine, and 1/3 varnish or polyurethane. To get a faster
built the next one or two coats are half that mix with half
varnish (1/6 BLO, 1/6 thinner, 2/3 varnish). You can play
with this ratio to get what you want. The final coat is the
same as the first. I apply with sandpaper starting at 220
grit working up to 600. Wipe clean after each coat.
What I don't like about Watco is
they don't use deodorized mineral spirits and I can't stand
the smell. I like the smell of turpentine and it seems to
work a little better than the mineral spirits.
I have some projects that I have done 30+ years ago.
With what was Watco then (formula has changed over
the years) seems to have held up well. I do put a coat
of wax on top. A new wax job every couple years keeps
everything looking good. I think the oiling schedule
you quote is for plain oil without the varnish or polyurethane.
For a sample of some of my projects see:
http://webpages.charter.net/ray93402/Woodwork/woodwork.html
At the top of the page is a link to more projects.
Ray