Some friends came back from Sweden last winter raving about the Ice Hotel
they had stayed in.
http://www.scantours.com/ice_hotel.htm They would like to try the same thing
(on a much smaller scale, of course) at their winter place in Idaho.
Naturally they came to me for guidance, but I have to admit this is a new
one, so I can use all the help I can get.
I've arranged for a supply of #1 Select pond ice to be delivered to the site
in standard 4' x 8' x ¾' sheets. There are also standard 4" x 4 " x 16'
sills and the appropriate number of 2 x 4s, 2 x 6s, etc.
The foundations will be poured in place just ahead of the season's first big
freeze, and I'd like to have as much of the ice trimmed and prefabricated to
save time, as the Eskimo carpenters are quite expensive. So here are my
questions:
What sort of blade should I use on the table and chop saws?
How much do you allow for melt with each cut?
Is there a way of laying out cuts on the ice? Nothing seems to make a
permanent mark.
They're looking at a shingle-style design. Is there a special tool for
splitting ice shingles? Should the ice be prepared in a special way? How do
you determine the grain direction?
Fasteners seem to be the major problem. I'm not sure what they use in
Sweden, but your standard 10d common nail will *not* work. (I've been
experimenting with ice cubes.) Someone suggested using a red-hot nail to
bore through the ice. Will this work? How about with the ice shingles?
I'm assuming that the ice window "glass" will be shipped in standard size
panes. Is there a source for ice mullions, or should I deal with a local
iceworking shop? What about putty? Is food coloring the best way to produce
stained glass for the entranceway?
For the interior I was planning to use standard icewall sheets held in place
with hot screws. What do you use to cover the joins? I've looked in the
Thomas Register for ice spackle without any luck. Should I use an adhesive,
and if so, what kind?
Flooring is also a problem. I cannot locate a source of laminate ice
planking (the people at Armstrong and Pergo were positively rude when I
inquired about the availability of quartersawn white oak). And how do you
deal with traction problems?
Finally, I am at a complete loss as to how to heat the completed structure.
The owners insist on fireplaces in each room. Is this possible? And... what
about fireproofing?
TIA,
-- Ernie
have you tried rec.iceworking ???
Ernie Jurick wrote:
> Some friends came back from Sweden last winter raving about the Ice Hotel
> they had stayed in.
> http://www.scantours.com/ice_hotel.htm They would like to try the same thing
> (on a much smaller scale, of course) at their winter place in Idaho.
> Naturally they came to me for guidance, but I have to admit this is a new
> one, so I can use all the help I can get.
>
> I've arranged for a supply of #1 Select pond ice to be delivered to the site
> in standard 4' x 8' x ¾' sheets. There are also standard 4" x 4 " x 16'
> sills and the appropriate number of 2 x 4s, 2 x 6s, etc.
> The foundations will be poured in place just ahead of the season's first big
> freeze, and I'd like to have as much of the ice trimmed and prefabricated to
> save time, as the Eskimo carpenters are quite expensive. So here are my
> questions:
>
> What sort of blade should I use on the table and chop saws?
>
> How much do you allow for melt with each cut?
>
> Is there a way of laying out cuts on the ice? Nothing seems to make a
> permanent mark.
>
> They're looking at a shingle-style design. Is there a special tool for
> splitting ice shingles? Should the ice be prepared in a special way? How do
> you determine the grain direction?
>
> Fasteners seem to be the major problem. I'm not sure what they use in
> Sweden, but your standard 10d common nail will *not* work. (I've been
> experimenting with ice cubes.) Someone suggested using a red-hot nail to
> bore through the ice. Will this work? How about with the ice shingles?
>
> I'm assuming that the ice window "glass" will be shipped in standard size
> panes. Is there a source for ice mullions, or should I deal with a local
> iceworking shop? What about putty? Is food coloring the best way to produce
> stained glass for the entranceway?
>
> For the interior I was planning to use standard icewall sheets held in place
> with hot screws. What do you use to cover the joins? I've looked in the
> Thomas Register for ice spackle without any luck. Should I use an adhesive,
> and if so, what kind?
>
> Flooring is also a problem. I cannot locate a source of laminate ice
> planking (the people at Armstrong and Pergo were positively rude when I
> inquired about the availability of quartersawn white oak). And how do you
> deal with traction problems?
>
> Finally, I am at a complete loss as to how to heat the completed structure.
> The owners insist on fireplaces in each room. Is this possible? And... what
> about fireproofing?
> TIA,
> -- Ernie
>
>
"Ernie Jurick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a way of laying out cuts on the ice? Nothing seems to make a
> permanent mark.
> -- Ernie
A warm liquid (heat to 98.6 F) will both mark and cut at the same time.
Start working on your aim.
-Jack
Thu, Jul 31, 2003, 3:53pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (JackD) says:
A warm liquid (heat to 98.6 F) will both mark and cut at the same time.
Start working on your aim.
Tha'll save painting later too.
JOAT
Everything happens for a reason, except possibly football.
- Lu-Tze
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 23 Jul 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/JOATorJackOfAll/page4.html
And the stained glass look won't be a problem, so long as you like pictures
of marigolds and sunbeams...
Clint
"Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thu, Jul 31, 2003, 3:53pm (EDT-3) [email protected] (JackD) says:
> A warm liquid (heat to 98.6 F) will both mark and cut at the same time.
> Start working on your aim.
>
> Tha'll save painting later too.
>
> JOAT
> Everything happens for a reason, except possibly football.
> - Lu-Tze
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 23 Jul 2003. Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/JOATorJackOfAll/page4.html
>
I think maybe it has to do with the intake pressure.
On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 13:30:46 GMT, "Ernie Jurick" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"JackD" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Ernie Jurick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Is there a way of laying out cuts on the ice? Nothing seems to make a
>> > permanent mark.
>>
>> > -- Ernie
>>
>> A warm liquid (heat to 98.6 F) will both mark and cut at the same time.
>> Start working on your aim.
>
>Thanks, I never thought of that. Now how do I adjust the depth of the cut?
>-- Ernie
>
On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 22:36:20 GMT, "Ernie Jurick" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Some friends came back from Sweden last winter raving about the Ice Hotel
>they had stayed in.
>http://www.scantours.com/ice_hotel.htm They would like to try the same thing
>(on a much smaller scale, of course) at their winter place in Idaho.
>Naturally they came to me for guidance, but I have to admit this is a new
>one, so I can use all the help I can get.
>
>I've arranged for a supply of #1 Select pond ice to be delivered to the site
>in standard 4' x 8' x ¾' sheets. There are also standard 4" x 4 " x 16'
>sills and the appropriate number of 2 x 4s, 2 x 6s, etc.
>The foundations will be poured in place just ahead of the season's first big
>freeze, and I'd like to have as much of the ice trimmed and prefabricated to
>save time, as the Eskimo carpenters are quite expensive. So here are my
>questions:
>
>What sort of blade should I use on the table and chop saws?
Crosscut IF you are going to cut across the current. If you go with
the flow, I'd use a regular ripping blade.
>
>How much do you allow for melt with each cut?
>12%
>Is there a way of laying out cuts on the ice? Nothing seems to make a
>permanent mark.
Chainsaw. Maybe a sharp nail.
>
>They're looking at a shingle-style design. Is there a special tool for
>splitting ice shingles? Should the ice be prepared in a special way? How do
>you determine the grain direction?
I'd want the ice hard. Look at which way the current flowed when it
froze; that way yoiu can determine the grain.
>
>Fasteners seem to be the major problem. I'm not sure what they use in
>Sweden, but your standard 10d common nail will *not* work. (I've been
>experimenting with ice cubes.) Someone suggested using a red-hot nail to
>bore through the ice. Will this work? How about with the ice shingles?
Well, I'd surely think some Redheads would work. Heck, just plain ole
concrete anchors ought to do the job. No reason to overkill here. Ice
shingles take an ice froe.
>I'm assuming that the ice window "glass" will be shipped in standard size
>panes. Is there a source for ice mullions, or should I deal with a local
>iceworking shop? What about putty? Is food coloring the best way to produce
stained glass for the entranceway? Yep, food coloring works great. The
mullions can be fashioned out of plastic or styerfoam. Local ice folks
would be of dubious help here. And putty is no problem-use crushed ice
witha little water added. I'd use a straight HSS steel router bit on
the styerfoam.
>
>For the interior I was planning to use standard icewall sheets held in place
>with hot screws. What do you use to cover the joins? I've looked in the
>Thomas Register for ice spackle without any luck. Should I use an adhesive,
>and if so, what kind? What about Kreg self-tapping crews?
Joints are covered with the crushed ice I just talked about. I wonder
if Jello would work here?
>
>Flooring is also a problem. I cannot locate a source of laminate ice
>planking (the people at Armstrong and Pergo were positively rude when I
>inquired about the availability of quartersawn white oak). And how do you
>deal with traction problems?
Man, they had NO reason to be short with you. I'd call BBB and
complain. I always use sand for traction-and sandblasting sand works
best since it is sharper. Throw a rug over it til party is over.
>
>Finally, I am at a complete loss as to how to heat the completed structure.
>The owners insist on fireplaces in each room. Is this possible? And... what
>about fireproofing?
Well, I'd serve Jack Black straight. You can heat up folks
from the inside OR outside. This calls for the inside method. A
little honey might help. You could install a sprinkler system if you
want to for extra fire proofing if you think you really need it. Added
advantage would be you could pour or spray a new floor anytime if the
other one got too abraisive or worn down.
>-- Ernie
>
Ernie Jurick wrote:
> I've arranged for a supply of #1 Select pond ice to be delivered to the
> site in standard 4' x 8' x ¾' sheets. There are also standard 4" x 4 " x
Why not just build some frames and make your own?
> Fasteners seem to be the major problem. I'm not sure what they use in
> Sweden, but your standard 10d common nail will *not* work. (I've been
> experimenting with ice cubes.) Someone suggested using a red-hot nail to
> bore through the ice. Will this work? How about with the ice shingles?
I'd suggest that you glue'em with water.
Ice doesn't really have a grain, so you're not going to be able to split
shingles. Why not just use packed snow?
> iceworking shop? What about putty? Is food coloring the best way to
> produce stained glass for the entranceway?
Kool Aid.
> inquired about the availability of quartersawn white oak). And how do you
> deal with traction problems?
Give everybody ice skates.
> Finally, I am at a complete loss as to how to heat the completed
> structure. The owners insist on fireplaces in each room. Is this possible?
> And... what about fireproofing?
Fireproofing is taken care of. Fireplaces are fine as long as they burn ice
logs.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
Confirmed post number: 16905 Approximate word count: 507150
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/