Dual post here.
Finally got around to building a base on casters to go under a 4-drawer
file cabinet in the basement (if it can be called a basement!) and putting
it in place last night. Out of one of the drawers fell one of my ex's
purchases. It is book(let), circa 1970. EAA How-to Series, "Basic Hand
Tools, Vol. 2," I showed it to a pilot friend this morning who said,
"Wow! An Environmental Aircraft Association book. This has to be almost
a collector's item."
Not sure it can be called a collector's item, but it has a lot of great
stuff in it. As my friend said, lots of things change, but basic
woodworking is constant. Though it is hardly likely drilling cowl
fastener holes, cutting glass tubing, or bending tubing with spring type
tube benders is in my future, it has a lot of good, practical information.
It's what I call a score.
Question:
How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
Glenna
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>
> I wouldn't start the day without a can of Bostik TopCoat nearby. Perhaps
> it's 'job specific', but sliding a 7" x 7" square routerbase along an
> aluminum fence with a PC Production router on top, is almost fun when
> TopCoat is applied to the base and fence-edge.
> It's all over my table saw as well. I'm addicted and swear by the stuff.
> I do NOT know what kind of residue it would leave on a wood veneer panel
> prior to finishing..it might cause fish-eyeing with laquer.
Since TopCote was developed specifically to reduce rust and earlier
developed specifically to cut down on sliding effort on TS surfaces it was
also developed to not affect the finish. Perfectly safe with no ill effects
in 15 years.
"Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dual post here.
>
> Finally got around to building a base on casters to go under a 4-drawer
> file cabinet in the basement (if it can be called a basement!) and putting
> it in place last night. Out of one of the drawers fell one of my ex's
> purchases. It is book(let), circa 1970. EAA How-to Series, "Basic Hand
> Tools, Vol. 2," I showed it to a pilot friend this morning who said,
> "Wow! An Environmental Aircraft Association book. This has to be almost
> a collector's item."
I think that is the Experimental Aircraft Association. Those are the folks
that build their own airplanes.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Thu, Jan 6, 2005, 11:10pm (EST-3) [email protected] (Glenna=A0Rose)
queries:
<snip> How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition,
specifically table saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is
that practical, and does it work? <snip>
Duh, yes. That's why people say to do it.
JOAT
EVERY THING THAT HAPPENS STAYS HAPPENED.
- Death
Glenna Rose asks:
>Question:
>How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
>saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
>does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
>TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
Paste wax, such as Johnson's, works for me. I've recently made my own blends,
adding more carnauba (hardest wax we use), and using a cordless power buffer on
three coats. Makes an appreciable difference but may not be worth the effort
for casual use. Do the Johnson's bit, buff lightly, do it again, buff well.
Repeat at intervals that reflect your use--lotsa use, repeat weekly; not so
much use, repeat monthly or as needed. I avoid car waxes, as too many have
problem substances that cause fish-eye in finishes if transferred, and I'm too
lazy to read the labels, but car waxes without silicone are good because they
are almost all very hard.
For commercial products, I've used a lot of Boeshield T9 and it works
exceptionally well for me. Use the same routine as above. Apply and buff
lightly. Apply second coat and buff to a high shine. Repeat as needed. TopCote
is also worthwhile, though I've only used it a couple times, so can't comment
much on it.
Charlie Self
"A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to
the ground." H. L. Mencken
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Question:
> How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
> saws?
>
Floor wax. I use Trewax, others use Johnsons. I only have to do it
once or twice a year, in spite of the fact that winter is our wet cold
season and the shop is unheated for most of it. IIRC, I had to wax a
little more frequently when I first started doing it. I think it builds
up in the pores.
--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description
"Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Question:
> How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
> saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
> does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
> TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
Wax works for many but seems to be an on going process. I personally have
been using TopCote for 15 years and get no rust unless I drip water on the
surface. I live in Houston so the humidity is normally in the 90% range but
have no condensing moisture.
Frank Ketchum wrote:
>"Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>Question:
>>How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
>>saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
>>does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
>>TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Johnson's paste wax. Do not use Minwax furniture wax. It has something in
>it that prevents it from being slippery (I guess in case you wax your floor
>with it). I found some Johnson's at the local hardware store, but some
>claim the Johnson's can be hard to find. You can search the archives, some
>have posted online sources for the stuff.
>
>Frank
>
>
>
>
I use the minwax as it is the only wax I can find in this area and
things are a lot more slippery than without it.
Rick
Johnson's paste wax is a normally stocked item at most midwest Ace hardware
stores. I seem to never need to do anything with my Unisaw. Constant use
keeps it rust free for me... But I did wax it a few years back before the
big Y2k thing thinking we were going to lose power and return to the stone
age for a while.
Knothead
In article <[email protected]>,
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > Question:
> > How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
> > saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
> > does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
> > TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
>
>
> Wax works for many but seems to be an on going process. I personally have
> been using TopCote for 15 years and get no rust unless I drip water on the
> surface. I live in Houston so the humidity is normally in the 90% range but
> have no condensing moisture.
>
>
I wouldn't start the day without a can of Bostik TopCoat nearby. Perhaps
it's 'job specific', but sliding a 7" x 7" square routerbase along an
aluminum fence with a PC Production router on top, is almost fun when
TopCoat is applied to the base and fence-edge.
It's all over my table saw as well. I'm addicted and swear by the stuff.
I do NOT know what kind of residue it would leave on a wood veneer panel
prior to finishing..it might cause fish-eyeing with laquer.
When using laquer finishes, you always have to keep 'additives' like
waxes and sillycones away from your work...they can cause havoc.
Rob--->who is feeling pretty good today knowing that his knee-lube
appointment was moved from Aug 23 2005 to January 27 2005.
"BillyBob" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
> After seeing a demo at woodcraft, I decided to give the rust cleaner
> made by Boeshield a try. Its basically a weak solution of phosphoric
> acid. You spritz it on and scrub with a 3m scouring pad (green
> grade). It removed all the rust and uglies within a matter of
> minutes. My top had not looked this good since it was new. I sprayed
> a couple of coatings of topcoat on afterward and I'm happy with the
> results.
>
A little kerosene, used with the green scrubbies, does pretty much the same
thing, for removing any rust. Butcher's Bowling Alley wax thereafter,
because I still have half a can of that, and it works really well.
The only rust problems I have are when I leave wood, generally oak, on the
iron portion of the saw table. So it's a user problem...
Patriarch
"Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Dual post here.
> Question:
> How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
> saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
> does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
> TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
I recently had all the cast iron tops of my table saw, jointer and drill
press screwed up. I'm having my house siding redone with hardi-plank. the
contractor set up a tablesaw right outside the door of my shop with the door
wide open. Concrete dust covered everything. Coupled with a near
condensing atmosphere weather condition for a few hours, everything had a
coat of nice even coat of rust within hours.
After seeing a demo at woodcraft, I decided to give the rust cleaner made by
Boeshield a try. Its basically a weak solution of phosphoric acid. You
spritz it on and scrub with a 3m scouring pad (green grade). It removed
all the rust and uglies within a matter of minutes. My top had not looked
this good since it was new. I sprayed a couple of coatings of topcoat on
afterward and I'm happy with the results.
Bob
"Glenna Rose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Question:
> How do you folks keep your tool tops in good condition, specifically table
> saws? Keeping them waxed is one thing I've read, is that practical, and
> does it work? It's time I cleaned up the tiny almost-rusted areas on my
> TS top and make certain it is babied in the future.
>
Johnson's paste wax. Do not use Minwax furniture wax. It has something in
it that prevents it from being slippery (I guess in case you wax your floor
with it). I found some Johnson's at the local hardware store, but some
claim the Johnson's can be hard to find. You can search the archives, some
have posted online sources for the stuff.
Frank