Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
window because it is too
tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
side studs.
I am wondering how to add a header to the top portion of the amputated
stud so that the load is then transfered to the bottom of the frame and
thus the cripple studs. It seems difficult to cut the 2X4s to exactly
the right length so that there is no gap between the hanging stud
bearing the load and the header that I wish to support it with.
It's really hot here in Eastern WA this year, so I'm hoping to get this
in before mom pays us a visit.
Thanks all,
JD
Thank you for all of the input. It is unfortunately not in one of the
gable ends....and yes, we do get our fair share of snow - sometimes up
to a foot in a storm.
I did some drill bit probing under a window, and it seems that I have
3/4 inch to spare in the height dimenson. I'll have to use the bottom
plate as the base of the frame, but this might be the best way to go
instead of cutting a stud.
Does anyone know if there is anything objectionable about using the
bottom plate to directly support the A/C? It's a 120# unit.
Thanks again,
JD
On Thu, 6 Jul 2006 10:30:51 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joe Bemier" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 5 Jul 2006 13:03:31 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> >Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
>> >window because it is too
>> >tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
>> >for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
>> >studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
>> >side studs.
>> >
>> >I am wondering how to add a header to the top portion of the amputated
>> >stud so that the load is then transfered to the bottom of the frame and
>> >thus the cripple studs. It seems difficult to cut the 2X4s to exactly
>> >the right length so that there is no gap between the hanging stud
>> >bearing the load and the header that I wish to support it with.
>> >
>> >It's really hot here in Eastern WA this year, so I'm hoping to get this
>> >in before mom pays us a visit.
>> >
>> >Thanks all,
>> >
>> >JD
>>
>>
>> Do you get snow in those parts?
>> What wall of the house is this going in....for example is it a rafter
>> bearing wall....or a gable end wall?
>
>Snow load on that short of a header won't really be an issue. If he builds
>a standard header he'll be fine. If it were me (I live in serious snow
>country), I'd use a 2x6 header for something that short, though the extra
>cautious might want to go 2x8. Overkill, but not out of the park
>price-wise.
>
>The OP's bigger question is how to cut off a stud squarely. Kind of hard to
>answer that question - you just cut it off square. Sounds like this might
>be a project he could use a hand on from someone a little more experienced
>with a saw.
Howdy MM - Not sure why you are Replying to me. I'm simply trying to
get more info so I can reply as best I can.
And, if it is a bearing wall and in an area that gets snow, I feel it
is an issue to disect even a single stud w/o headering it off. In
other words if his house is framed 16 OC cutting that one stud leaves
an unsupported span of 30.5". I would not trust that even for the dead
load let alone live loading if the OP lives in snow country.
But, you're right - if cutting a stud squarely is an issue, it might
be a good idea to get some help.
On Thu, 6 Jul 2006 21:50:07 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joe Bemier" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> Howdy MM - Not sure why you are Replying to me. I'm simply trying to
>> get more info so I can reply as best I can.
>> And, if it is a bearing wall and in an area that gets snow, I feel it
>> is an issue to disect even a single stud w/o headering it off. In
>> other words if his house is framed 16 OC cutting that one stud leaves
>> an unsupported span of 30.5". I would not trust that even for the dead
>> load let alone live loading if the OP lives in snow country.
>
>Hi Joe. I picked up on the snow load question. A headed off span of 30" is
>no concern for snow load assuming a decent header. That's why I responded
>to your post. I hope I didn't get more than one reply mixed up. The OP has
>since stated that they can get up to one foot which is a very trivial snow
>load. I didn't disagree with heading it off. I was simply stating that
>even in snow country, an opening like the OP described could well be headed
>off with a simple 2x6 header. So - I was agreeing with you more than
>disagreeing.
Thanks for explaining, Mike. I am very careful in here as there are
some very sensitive participants.
Good day,
J
"Joe Bemier" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 5 Jul 2006 13:03:31 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
> >window because it is too
> >tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
> >for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
> >studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
> >side studs.
> >
> >I am wondering how to add a header to the top portion of the amputated
> >stud so that the load is then transfered to the bottom of the frame and
> >thus the cripple studs. It seems difficult to cut the 2X4s to exactly
> >the right length so that there is no gap between the hanging stud
> >bearing the load and the header that I wish to support it with.
> >
> >It's really hot here in Eastern WA this year, so I'm hoping to get this
> >in before mom pays us a visit.
> >
> >Thanks all,
> >
> >JD
>
>
> Do you get snow in those parts?
> What wall of the house is this going in....for example is it a rafter
> bearing wall....or a gable end wall?
Snow load on that short of a header won't really be an issue. If he builds
a standard header he'll be fine. If it were me (I live in serious snow
country), I'd use a 2x6 header for something that short, though the extra
cautious might want to go 2x8. Overkill, but not out of the park
price-wise.
The OP's bigger question is how to cut off a stud squarely. Kind of hard to
answer that question - you just cut it off square. Sounds like this might
be a project he could use a hand on from someone a little more experienced
with a saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Joe Bemier" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Howdy MM - Not sure why you are Replying to me. I'm simply trying to
> get more info so I can reply as best I can.
> And, if it is a bearing wall and in an area that gets snow, I feel it
> is an issue to disect even a single stud w/o headering it off. In
> other words if his house is framed 16 OC cutting that one stud leaves
> an unsupported span of 30.5". I would not trust that even for the dead
> load let alone live loading if the OP lives in snow country.
Hi Joe. I picked up on the snow load question. A headed off span of 30" is
no concern for snow load assuming a decent header. That's why I responded
to your post. I hope I didn't get more than one reply mixed up. The OP has
since stated that they can get up to one foot which is a very trivial snow
load. I didn't disagree with heading it off. I was simply stating that
even in snow country, an opening like the OP described could well be headed
off with a simple 2x6 header. So - I was agreeing with you more than
disagreeing.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
> window because it is too
> tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
> for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
> studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
> side studs.
In this part of the country, a "jack stud", supports the header, and
"cripples" the bottom of what your are calling the "frame".
http://daveosborne.com/dave/articles/images/windowframe.gif?PHPSESSID=af57bb5a27a9200943424b5363bd7a8c
The above picture is included for clarity, not terminology, as terminology
does vary according to the part of the country you're in.
What we down here in this part of the country call "cripples" is what is
below the rough "sill" (your frame bottom) in the picture.
YMMV
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/21/06
The real trouble here is that you can't cut the studs to the right length
without messing up more wall than you need to for the unit. If this doesn't
bother you, two 2X4 on edge makes a strong header. Really though, if you
have double top plates the load for one stud will go fine to the ones
adjacent, unless there is something really heavy above, so finishing the
hole with 3/4 wood may be all you need. If you cut near one stud, you can
put blocks on it to support the ends of the top and bottom 3/4 pieces, then
put a couple of sheetrock screws into the cut off stud ends to hold them
there and let the ends float. Put the other vertical between the
horizontals and screw/nail it before they are hooked to the stud. The unit
will sit on the lower horizontal just fine, supported mostly by the short
stud below. Make the 3/4 wood the same width as the studs and you can put
it behind the sheetrock and run in a few screws to support it.
Wilson
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
> window because it is too
> tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
> for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
> studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
> side studs.
>
> I am wondering how to add a header to the top portion of the amputated
> stud so that the load is then transfered to the bottom of the frame and
> thus the cripple studs. It seems difficult to cut the 2X4s to exactly
> the right length so that there is no gap between the hanging stud
> bearing the load and the header that I wish to support it with.
>
> It's really hot here in Eastern WA this year, so I'm hoping to get this
> in before mom pays us a visit.
>
> Thanks all,
>
> JD
>
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Thank you for all of the input. It is unfortunately not in one of the
> gable ends....and yes, we do get our fair share of snow - sometimes up
> to a foot in a storm.
>
> I did some drill bit probing under a window, and it seems that I have
> 3/4 inch to spare in the height dimenson. I'll have to use the bottom
> plate as the base of the frame, but this might be the best way to go
> instead of cutting a stud.
>
> Does anyone know if there is anything objectionable about using the
> bottom plate to directly support the A/C? It's a 120# unit.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> JD
>
>
I guess I don't see the real structural problem here. I did essentially
the same thing in my workshop wall except I created an opening for a
4'X6' plate glass window.
I'd build a header (2-2X6s with 1/2" plywood between, all glued and
nailed or screwed together - 2X8s if paranoid). Then, I'd set this
header on a cripple attached to each side stud. I'd replace the cut stud
with a short piece above the header, bearing on it and supporting the
ceiling plate.
For the A/C support I'd set another cripple and/or a 2' block fastened
to the header's cripple and run a 2X4 across to support the A/C. Then,
support the 2X4 in the center with a short stud anchored to the floor
plate.
If there's a worry about the whole thing sagging while cutting the studs
and installing the new support(s), back off 2-3 feet from the wall, set
a 2X8 flat across the ceiling/joists and support with timbers and jacks.
On 5 Jul 2006 13:03:31 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi all, I need to add a through wall a/c, and I cannot put it under the
>window because it is too
>tall to fit there. I plan to remove a portion of a stud to make room
>for a frame. The bottom of the frame will be supported by cripple
>studs which will also be screwed to the two flanking
>side studs.
>
>I am wondering how to add a header to the top portion of the amputated
>stud so that the load is then transfered to the bottom of the frame and
>thus the cripple studs. It seems difficult to cut the 2X4s to exactly
>the right length so that there is no gap between the hanging stud
>bearing the load and the header that I wish to support it with.
>
>It's really hot here in Eastern WA this year, so I'm hoping to get this
>in before mom pays us a visit.
>
>Thanks all,
>
>JD
Do you get snow in those parts?
What wall of the house is this going in....for example is it a rafter
bearing wall....or a gable end wall?