If you look closely you'll notice that the cutters don't run all the
way up to the shaft. I've always supposed that you just setup the fence
so the panel only extends over to the end of the cutters, clear of the
shaft.
The only place this scenario breaks down is for panels with a
raidused/curved top. I suppose it that case you can make a fence with
two pins.
I wasn't aware of that (the raised panel bit wouldn't have a bearing). So
this mean I will have to guess work the depth of panel cuts? I like to make
all the panel cuts the same. Is this common with other brands (CMT, etc)?
Also, the question below comes up too, how?
> How are you going to follow a pattern for arched or cathedral doors
> w/o a bearing?
Chuck
Biggest trick that caught me.
> ALL 2+2 cutters come with a bearing EXCEPT those with
> a backcutter 99-566/99-569. You have to decide if you
> do or do not need the bearing.
Why is that? A bearing would not only be good for curves, but would give
same cutting depth for all panels sides. I change the 3 bits often, so a
bearing on the raised panel (with backcutter) would give me same depth
everytime (instead of rely on tape measure on the table or a template).
Look like I will have to return the brand new Freud and go for the top, CMT
The CMT do not have a set of that style, so I will have to spend about $260
for a pair of rail/stile and a panel bit.
Chuck
Maybe there will need be a vote or a debate now...
I just called Freud rep. He said that the 2+2 with backcutter do not have
bearing. He said that the shaft is the final cutting depth. It is designed
to go all the way and use it as if it had a bearing. Comments?
Chuck
> yes, the bearing sets the cutting depth from the edge on ALL cuts,
> straight or curved. YOu don't take the bearing off. You don't BUY a
> bit w/o a bearing IF you need to do template cuts.
I do make three straight passes, 1/4" off at a time (with raised panels).
I haven't done any curves yet. I believe it's OK to do the curves with full
cuts (one pass). Just have to be extra careful, and top of that is cutting
the curves along. This is how I saw the reps did at the WW shows.
I decide to keep it and made few cuts with it. Noticed the backcutter came
out the same depth as my $65 ones, but the cove is 1/4" longer. I don't
think I like it that long, but I need to do more before I decide on
anything.
Forgot to mention that Freud rep that I spoke with earlier today did
mention that the red paint (shaft) will eventually rub off onto the wood,
and added that it's no big deal since that part would be hidden in the
grooves of the rail/stile.
As to your question (below), to me, the pattern (template) are used only
with straight flush bits (example, Freud #42-110 or #50-110). Then take off
the pattern, shovel it (fully) into the raised panel bit (with backcutter).
Huh?
Chuck
> I can't comment on what Freud told you. BUT, how does the shaft
> follow a pattern, my friend???? How do you change the cutting depth
> from the edge for two passes when using a pattern??? Hmmm??? Hmmm???
ALL 2+2 cutters come with a bearing EXCEPT those with
a backcutter 99-566/99-569. You have to decide if you
do or do not need the bearing.
CNT wrote:
> I finally got my router bit set. I canceled the Amazon.com and ordered it
> from routerbitworld.com, received it in few days!
>
> The rail and stile have bearings, but not the raised panel bit? Is the 2+2
> supposed not to have a bearing?
>
> Chuck
CNT wrote:
> Biggest trick that caught me.
>
>
>>ALL 2+2 cutters come with a bearing EXCEPT those with
>>a backcutter 99-566/99-569. You have to decide if you
>>do or do not need the bearing.
>
>
> Why is that? A bearing would not only be good for curves, but would give
> same cutting depth for all panels sides. I change the 3 bits often, so a
> bearing on the raised panel (with backcutter) would give me same depth
> everytime (instead of rely on tape measure on the table or a template).
>
> Look like I will have to return the brand new Freud and go for the top, CMT
> The CMT do not have a set of that style, so I will have to spend about $260
> for a pair of rail/stile and a panel bit.
>
> Chuck
yes, the bearing sets the cutting depth from the edge on ALL cuts,
straight or curved. YOu don't take the bearing off. You don't BUY a
bit w/o a bearing IF you need to do template cuts.
CNT wrote:
> I am now just confused. I haven't used the bits yet, thinking about having
> to return it. I can understand using the fence to adjust the depth of the
> cut, but the bearing would make it a perfect depth everytime.
>
> Do you guys do raised panels with backcutter and without the bearing?
>
> Chuck
if you are doing straight panels you don't need a bearing.
if you do curves (you use a template) you need a bearing to follow the
template
CNT wrote:
> I finally got my router bit set. I canceled the Amazon.com and ordered it
> from routerbitworld.com, received it in few days!
>
> The rail and stile have bearings, but not the raised panel bit? Is the 2+2
> supposed not to have a bearing?
>
> Chuck
How are you going to follow a pattern for arched or cathedral doors w/o
a bearing?
Dave
CNT wrote:
> I do make three straight passes, 1/4" off at a time (with raised panels).
>
> I haven't done any curves yet. I believe it's OK to do the curves with full
> cuts (one pass). Just have to be extra careful, and top of that is cutting
> the curves along. This is how I saw the reps did at the WW shows.
>
> I decide to keep it and made few cuts with it. Noticed the backcutter came
> out the same depth as my $65 ones, but the cove is 1/4" longer. I don't
> think I like it that long, but I need to do more before I decide on
> anything.
>
> Forgot to mention that Freud rep that I spoke with earlier today did
> mention that the red paint (shaft) will eventually rub off onto the wood,
> and added that it's no big deal since that part would be hidden in the
> grooves of the rail/stile.
>
> As to your question (below), to me, the pattern (template) are used only
> with straight flush bits (example, Freud #42-110 or #50-110). Then take off
> the pattern, shovel it (fully) into the raised panel bit (with backcutter).
> Huh?
>
> Chuck
>
>
>>I can't comment on what Freud told you. BUT, how does the shaft
>>follow a pattern, my friend???? How do you change the cutting depth
>>from the edge for two passes when using a pattern??? Hmmm??? Hmmm???
You are gonna be in for a surprise (not a happy one) if you emulate the
reps at the WW shows. One pass will guarantee you'll be throwing some
wood out due to tear out, besides which one pass is too deep if the bit
is 3-1/2" diameter. What IS the diameter of the bit you have?
Remember the warning "don't try this at home"? :)
Dave
CNT wrote:
> I wasn't aware of that (the raised panel bit wouldn't have a bearing). So
> this mean I will have to guess work the depth of panel cuts? I like to make
> all the panel cuts the same. Is this common with other brands (CMT, etc)?
>
> Also, the question below comes up too, how?
>
>
>>How are you going to follow a pattern for arched or cathedral doors
>>w/o a bearing?
>
>
> Chuck
Not sure I understand the intent of your first sentence, Chuck.
Regardless, here's the deal: to use your raised panel bit to follow a
pattern, you need a pilot bearing (two actually--one larger than the
other to give you the first cut. You can't start with the bit lower in
the table if there is a backcutter). I use the CMT with backcutter and
2 bearings to cut cathedral arch doors in 2 passes.
this sounds like a conversation I had (was it with you?) about 2 months ago.
Dave
CNT wrote:
> Maybe there will need be a vote or a debate now...
>
> I just called Freud rep. He said that the 2+2 with backcutter do not have
> bearing. He said that the shaft is the final cutting depth. It is designed
> to go all the way and use it as if it had a bearing. Comments?
>
> Chuck
>
>
>>yes, the bearing sets the cutting depth from the edge on ALL cuts,
>>straight or curved. YOu don't take the bearing off. You don't BUY a
>>bit w/o a bearing IF you need to do template cuts.
I made the mistake of buying a Freud crown molding bit. It is the
lamest bit I've ever bought because it won't cut at the top or bottom of
the bit, so the wood either has to be no wider than the bit or you have
to cut grooves precisely at the right height on the stock. If you don't
the bit burns the hell out of the stock. I called Freud. they said
that's the way it's designed. Gimme a frickin' break!!
OTOH I love their adjustable tongue and groove set. I comes with at
least 2,000 shims (ok, I'm exaggerating, but it comes with a lot more
than any CMT bit I have).
I can't comment on what Freud told you. BUT, how does the shaft follow
a pattern, my friend???? How do you change the cutting depth from the
edge for two passes when using a pattern??? Hmmm??? Hmmm???
Dave