On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 11:35:08 -0500, Rob H. wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Rob H. wrote:
>>>
>>> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:c8acc10b-8337-4153-9e41-d97f17d6d370@m11g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
>>>> Everyone seems to agree that 2139 is a handle for a stove plate, and
>>>> they're probably right, but to me, who's never owned a cast iron
>>>> stove, it looks like a "church key" - a bottle opener. I have owned
>>>> bottles...at least temporarily. ;)
>>>>
>>>> R
>>>
>>>
>>> There are no correct guesses for this one yet.
>>
>> How about a tool for handling wire--say, #2 guage?
>
> Yes, it's for working with wire, but there is a more specific term that
> describes its use better than 'handling'.
>
> Rob
Looks like a wire wrapping tool The 2 wires are passed through the hook on
the tool one is bent towards us in the pic and then the tool is moved
around the wire to create a twisted joint
On Jan 15, 2:25=A0pm, Leon Fisk <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Okay, Ted, thanks for the info. =A0Maybe I'll give it a shot on a hand
> >scythe I've never used that's been laying around forever.
>
>
> Not the best copy, but "The Scythe Book" may help. Page 20 has
> "peening" info (7.2mb).
>
> http://www.cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/JF/417/06-273.pdf
Thanks for the link, Leon.
Page 20 says this: "The edge of the blade rests perfectly flat on the
anvil." And it told of tilting the scythe when peening. I can now
see how tilting the scythe's curved blade would eventually find a flat
"plane" on the curved anvil.
While Page 24 has this: "The edges, no longer perfectly straight, have
become a little wavy, showing that the wear and/or sharpening has been
uneven. However, this is acceptable for a scythe, and does not impair
its performance."
Damn. I knew I should have paid attention in high school hand mowing
class, but I was more interested in checking out the cute girls in my
animal husbandry class. ;)
R
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:19:24 -0800 (PST), RicodJour wrote:
> BTW, thanks for the word "snath". Chalk up another one for the
> Scrabble arsenal. I _love_ hearing, "That's not a word!"
Ah, but as a five-letter word that uses up one of the S's it's not
particularly useful. ;-) The sevens and eights are much more useful.
--
Ted S.
fedya at hughes dot net
Now blogging at http://justacineast.blogspot.com
On Jan 16, 3:26=A0pm, Leon Fisk <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:38:25 -0800 (PST)
>
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> >Damn. =A0I knew I should have paid attention in high school hand mowing
> >class, but I was more interested in checking out the cute girls in my
> >animal husbandry class. =A0;)
>
> Yes, girls were a distraction, but there wasn't any classes for stuff
> like this during my time in school...
I said that in jest. My high school didn't have shop class, or really
anything. Come to think of it, my high school was a jest but I didn't
know it at the time.
> My Dad and Grandfather on my Mother's side were the scythe experts,
> especially Grandfather. Sadly he passed away long before I had any
> interest in such things. Both of them were still swinging scythes to
> mow misc things well into their 80's. I still use Dad's old scythe and
> just last year bit the bullet and bought a new one. Wanted one with a
> brush blade and aluminum snath. I use mine for rough work, weeds,
> briers, small saplings... really works a treat on them. For that type
> of work they don't need to be razor sharp. If you plan on cutting stuff
> like grass though, you want to have it as sharp as you can make it.
> That is when some peening would be in order along with some serious
> whetting to touch it up every so often during use.
>
> There are several good websites explaining scythe use too.
You're making it sound fun, and I want to go give it a shot, but as
there's a foot and a half of snow on the ground I think I'll wait. ;)
BTW, thanks for the word "snath". Chalk up another one for the
Scrabble arsenal. I _love_ hearing, "That's not a word!"
R
On Jan 13, 4:27=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
> Rob
The anvil is for peining the edge of a sythe, the steel of which are
softer than you would think and are pounded out thin and work hardened
at the same time and then stoned. A thick edge is useless.
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> No luck on the two unidentified items but the rest of the answers can be
> seen here:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html#answers
>
>
> Rob
God-dayum! That fencewire-stringing machine is a beauty to behold.
Thanks for that.
--
Jeff R.
"Leon Fisk" wrote:
<snip>
> Don't let me woo you, it is work, plain and simple. Wear some decent
> gloves or you'll most like get blisters to prove it :) Light cotton
> gloves with the rubber facing work pretty good. Give a decent grip
> and
> don't become unbearable during a hot day. I much prefer the sound of
> swish, swish, swish rather than the annoying BRAAAAAAP from a
> weed-whacker. I have one, but I don't like using it. For tall weeds
> and
> briers I kinda feel that the scythe works better anyway.
---------------------------------
Goats, the silent weed-whacker.
Lew
"Leon Fisk" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:19:24 -0800 (PST)
> RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> <snip>
>>I said that in jest. My high school didn't have shop class, or really
>>anything. Come to think of it, my high school was a jest but I didn't
>>know it at the time.
>
> I suspected that, but not knowing how old or where your are from...
>
> I was lucky, we had a decent shop class in high school. Both wood and
> metal, wish I had put more effort into the metal classes.
> Nothing in school that would explain how to use a scythe though.
>
> <snip>
>>You're making it sound fun, and I want to go give it a shot, but as
>>there's a foot and a half of snow on the ground I think I'll wait. ;)
>
> Don't let me woo you, it is work, plain and simple. Wear some decent
> gloves or you'll most like get blisters to prove it :) Light cotton
> gloves with the rubber facing work pretty good. Give a decent grip and
> don't become unbearable during a hot day. I much prefer the sound of
> swish, swish, swish rather than the annoying BRAAAAAAP from a
> weed-whacker. I have one, but I don't like using it. For tall weeds and
> briers I kinda feel that the scythe works better anyway. The downside
> is that you end up with a lot of long debris, stalks laying around. For
> me this isn't really a problem though and no different than
> weed-whackers.
>
> Read, study the part of the book that explains adjusting the handles to
> your body. Getting them in approximately the right place to begin with
> is a big help. Work with it that way for awhile before making any major
> changes. I prefer having both handles on the same side, pointing
> towards me. My Dad had one forward and one back. If he was still around
> I would ask him why, but I suspect he just started using a scythe with
> them positioned that way and just got used to it.
>
> --
> Leon Fisk
> Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
> Remove no.spam for email
>
When I was about 12 years old I persuaded an uncle to teach me how to use a
scythe.
I lived to regret it.
Max (grew up in Shiawassee county, MI)
"Mouse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1/17/2011 5:26 PM, Max wrote:
>
>> When I was about 12 years old I persuaded an uncle to teach me how to
>> use a scythe.
>> I lived to regret it.
>>
>> Max (grew up in Shiawassee county, MI)
>
> LOL. You ain't lived till you've cleared brush with a brush scythe on a
> ski slope.
Gack! I could barely handle flat terrain.
Max
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
>
> Rob
2137: blacksmiths anvil piece
2138: you got me
2139: wood combustion stove firebox plate lifter
2140:
On Jan 13, 5:27=A0pm, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
> Rob
2137) Lumberjacks pound it into a tree to make a foothold.
2138) A retractible button. Press the back, and it seats smoothly on
the fabric
2139) A handle for lifting grill plates on a woodstove
2140) A wool carding thingy. Or maybe a mole trap
2141) Tent stakes
2142) A turnbuckle for pulling two sheets of heavy canvas tight. The
feet on the ends went into little 'buttonholes' in the canvas, then
the handle was twisted.
Now to see if any of my wild guesses were even close to right.
RicodJour wrote:
> On Jan 14, 6:52 am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
>> The anvil is for peining the edge of a sythe, the steel of which are
>> softer than you would think and are pounded out thin and work hardened
>> at the same time and then stoned. A thick edge is useless.
>>
>> Good answer, this is correct.
>
> That's an odd one. I understand the metallurgical reasoning, but I
> don't understand the compound curve of the anvil. Wouldn't that tend
> to leave a rippled edge? A rippled edge would be bitch to sharpen.
> Do you have a patent reference on that one by any chance or a link?
> I'd like to read a bit more about it to see how they did it.
>
> R
Ive used mine and it only ripples a very small amount. In fact the swiss
cythers didnt put a sharpening stone to the edge after swaging it to a
razor edge. the hammer they and I used is a flat head and the small
anvil is domed. you only swage the 1/8thin edge bit of the cythe.
you should be able to replicate the technique with any metal with a
hard faced ball peen hammer gripped in a vice and another hammer to do
the work
Ted
Dorset
UK
J Burns wrote:
> On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>> In article<[email protected]>,
>> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Another set has just been posted:
>>>
>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance, usually in
>> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>>
>> Joe Gwinn
>
> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>
> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>
> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
> know it contained 20.
>
> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another, or
> perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
J Burns wrote:
> On 1/18/11 5:44 PM, J.P. wrote:
>> J Burns wrote:
>>> On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>>> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Another set has just been posted:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance, usually in
>>>> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>>>>
>>>> Joe Gwinn
>>> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>>>
>>> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
>>> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
>>> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
>>> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>>>
>>> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
>>> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
>>> know it contained 20.
>>>
>>> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another,
>>> or perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
>> You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
>> equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
>>
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
>>
>>
> Wow! How did you find it!
I Googled sixpence coin holder!
Used to have one myself but I never filled it up.
J Burns wrote:
> On 1/18/11 6:14 PM, J.P. wrote:
>> J Burns wrote:
>>> On 1/18/11 5:44 PM, J.P. wrote:
>>>> J Burns wrote:
>>>>> On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>>>>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>>>>> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Another set has just been posted:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>>>> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance,
>>>>>> usually in
>>>>>> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Joe Gwinn
>>>>> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>>>>>
>>>>> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
>>>>> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
>>>>> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
>>>>> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>>>>>
>>>>> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
>>>>> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
>>>>> know it contained 20.
>>>>>
>>>>> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another,
>>>>> or perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
>>>> You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
>>>> equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Wow! How did you find it!
>> I Googled sixpence coin holder!
>> Used to have one myself but I never filled it up.
>
> Do you have any pics of it? I don't like to complain, but the ebay one
> has unsightly rust.
sorry, long gone. perhaps whoever bought it managed to clean it up and
open it.
On Jan 16, 7:32=A0pm, "Stormin Mormon"
<cayoung61**[email protected]> wrote:
>
> My one grand father was a scrabble player.
...you only had one grandfather? Ummm, okay. Guess it runs in the
family. {Yikes!}
May I suggest cloning? Just do away with all of that messy sexual
reproduction stuff.
R
On 1/13/2011 6:57 PM, Rob H. wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
>
> Rob
2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
2138 coin carrier fo sixpences , the sixpences fit into the back and
are held in the item by the spring
2139 stove plate handel
2140 carpet stretcher
2141 meat scewers
2142 turn buckle of some description ,no idea what it would be used for.
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
[email protected]
On Jan 14, 6:52=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> The anvil is for peining the edge of a sythe, the steel of which are
> softer than you would think and are pounded out thin and work hardened
> at the same time and then stoned. =A0A thick edge is useless.
>
> Good answer, this is correct.
That's an odd one. I understand the metallurgical reasoning, but I
don't understand the compound curve of the anvil. Wouldn't that tend
to leave a rippled edge? A rippled edge would be bitch to sharpen.
Do you have a patent reference on that one by any chance or a link?
I'd like to read a bit more about it to see how they did it.
R
On Jan 14, 7:08=A0pm, Ted Frater <[email protected]> wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
> > On Jan 14, 6:52 am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> The anvil is for peining the edge of a sythe, the steel of which are
> >> softer than you would think and are pounded out thin and work hardened
> >> at the same time and then stoned. =A0A thick edge is useless.
>
> >> Good answer, this is correct.
>
> > That's an odd one. =A0I understand the metallurgical reasoning, but I
> > don't understand the compound curve of the anvil. =A0Wouldn't that tend
> > to leave a rippled edge? =A0A rippled edge would be bitch to sharpen.
> > Do you have a patent reference on that one by any chance or a link?
> > I'd like to read a bit more about it to see how they did it.
>
> > R
>
> Ive used mine and it only ripples a very small amount. In fact the swiss
> cythers didnt put a sharpening stone to the edge after swaging it to a
> razor edge. the hammer they and I used is a flat head and the small
> anvil is domed. you only swage the 1/8thin edge bit of the cythe.
> you should be able to replicate the technique with any metal =A0with a
> hard faced ball peen hammer gripped in a vice and another hammer to do
> the work
> Ted
> Dorset
> UK
Okay, Ted, thanks for the info. Maybe I'll give it a shot on a hand
scythe I've never used that's been laying around forever.
R
On Jan 13, 10:47=A0am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
re:2137
> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
> metal although not as described above. =A0Actually, the word 'flattening'
> isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but the=
re
> is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
>
> Rob
Is this a sheet metal dolly of some kind?
On Jan 14, 10:31=A0pm, somebody wrote:
> RicodJour wrote:
>
> >That's an odd one. =A0I understand the metallurgical reasoning, but I
> >don't understand the compound curve of the anvil. =A0Wouldn't that tend
> >to leave a rippled edge? =A0A rippled edge would be bitch to sharpen.
> >Do you have a patent reference on that one by any chance or a link?
> >I'd like to read a bit more about it to see how they did it.
>
> I don't have a patent, just the link on the answer page and a reference i=
n
> the Dictionary of American Hand Tools.
I just checked out that link. What a great German web site! I was
browsing their course offerings and they only had twenty or thirty I
am interested in. I was also interested in their $1000 chisel sets,
but I managed to keep my credit card in my wallet. ;)
R
2140 I've seen a similar tool used to separate fibrous material (flax,
papyrus, hemp). The worker takes a handful of fibrous stalks, slaps it
down on the comb and pulls. Repeatedly.
2142 This looks like a tool for repairing cracked stone blocks. Stick
the flat surfaces to either side of the crack, with a removable cement.
Clean the crack and fill with a permanent cement. Pull the crack
closed. When the permanent cement has set, knock off the tool and clean
the surface.
On 1/13/2011 4:27 AM, Rob H. wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
>
> Rob
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c8acc10b-8337-4153-9e41-d97f17d6d370@m11g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
> Everyone seems to agree that 2139 is a handle for a stove plate, and
> they're probably right, but to me, who's never owned a cast iron
> stove, it looks like a "church key" - a bottle opener. I have owned
> bottles...at least temporarily. ;)
>
> R
There are no correct guesses for this one yet.
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>
>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Rob
>>
>> 2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
>
>
> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
> answer.
>
>
> Rob
2137 Flattening metal by hand? Place a handle over the tang and pound
til your hearts content? (I'm convinced it's the convex end that is the
important feature--I didn't notice it until the 2nd picture).
Bill
Rob H. wrote:
>
> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:c8acc10b-8337-4153-9e41-d97f17d6d370@m11g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
>> Everyone seems to agree that 2139 is a handle for a stove plate, and
>> they're probably right, but to me, who's never owned a cast iron
>> stove, it looks like a "church key" - a bottle opener. I have owned
>> bottles...at least temporarily. ;)
>>
>> R
>
>
> There are no correct guesses for this one yet.
How about a tool for handling wire--say, #2 guage?
Bill
>
>
> Rob
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rob H. wrote:
>>
>> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:c8acc10b-8337-4153-9e41-d97f17d6d370@m11g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
>>> Everyone seems to agree that 2139 is a handle for a stove plate, and
>>> they're probably right, but to me, who's never owned a cast iron
>>> stove, it looks like a "church key" - a bottle opener. I have owned
>>> bottles...at least temporarily. ;)
>>>
>>> R
>>
>>
>> There are no correct guesses for this one yet.
>
> How about a tool for handling wire--say, #2 guage?
Yes, it's for working with wire, but there is a more specific term that
describes its use better than 'handling'.
Rob
>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>> 2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
>>
>>
>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>> answer.
>>
>>
> 2137 Flattening metal by hand? Place a handle over the tang and pound til
> your hearts content? (I'm convinced it's the convex end that is the
> important feature--I didn't notice it until the 2nd picture).
It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but there
is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
Rob
Rob H. wrote:
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Rob H. wrote:
>>>
>>> "RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:c8acc10b-8337-4153-9e41-d97f17d6d370@m11g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>>> Everyone seems to agree that 2139 is a handle for a stove plate, and
>>>> they're probably right, but to me, who's never owned a cast iron
>>>> stove, it looks like a "church key" - a bottle opener. I have owned
>>>> bottles...at least temporarily. ;)
>>>>
>>>> R
>>>
>>>
>>> There are no correct guesses for this one yet.
>>
>> How about a tool for handling wire--say, #2 guage?
>
>
> Yes, it's for working with wire, but there is a more specific term that
> describes its use better than 'handling'.
>
>
> Rob
Looks like a wire twister. Used to make coiled joins in wire.
--
Steve W.
(\___/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Rob H. wrote:
>
>>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>> 2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
>>>
>>>
>>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>>> answer.
>>>
>>>
>
>> 2137 Flattening metal by hand? Place a handle over the tang and pound
>> til your hearts content? (I'm convinced it's the convex end that is
>> the important feature--I didn't notice it until the 2nd picture).
>
>
> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
> metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
> isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but
> there is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
...
Unless I'm sorely mistaken, its purpose is to broach square holes in hot
plate. One holds it w/ tongs along the grooved sides and whacks the
large end away from the pointy one...there's a similar one in the
collection of grandfather's old blacksmithing tools and I recall making
holes for carriage bolt heads for some hand-manufactured farm implements
when I was a kid lo! those many moons ago.
Now there may be some other usage that could be made of it as well, but
I'm venturing that's the original purpose...
--
>> Yes, it's for working with wire, but there is a more specific term that
>> describes its use better than 'handling'.
>>
>> Rob
>
>
> Looks like a wire wrapping tool The 2 wires are passed through the hook on
> the tool one is bent towards us in the pic and then the tool is moved
> around the wire to create a twisted joint
This answer and Steve's are both correct, typically it was used on wire
fences.
Rob
"lektric dan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b9755ca9-010d-4d94-a3d2-d2e6089291fc@i17g2000vbq.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 13, 10:47 am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
re:2137
> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
> metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
> isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but
> there
> is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
>
> Rob
Is this a sheet metal dolly of some kind?
That's not it.
>> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
>> metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
>> isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but
>> there is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
> ...
>
> Unless I'm sorely mistaken, its purpose is to broach square holes in hot
> plate. One holds it w/ tongs along the grooved sides and whacks the
> large end away from the pointy one...there's a similar one in the
> collection of grandfather's old blacksmithing tools and I recall making
> holes for carriage bolt heads for some hand-manufactured farm implements
> when I was a kid lo! those many moons ago.
>
> Now there may be some other usage that could be made of it as well, but
> I'm venturing that's the original purpose...
Nope. It would have been used by a farmer.
Rob
"axolotl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 1/13/2011 10:39 AM, Rob H. wrote:
>
>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>> answer.
>
> Looks like a saw anvil. Pound it into a tree stump and use it to set the
> teeth of a logging saw.
>
> Kevin Gallimore
Very close, you're right about it being pounded into a tree stump, but it
wasn't for saws.
Rob
On 1/13/11 11:47 AM, Rob H. wrote:
>
>>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>> 2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
>>>
>>>
>>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>>> answer.
>>>
>>>
>
>> 2137 Flattening metal by hand? Place a handle over the tang and pound
>> til your hearts content? (I'm convinced it's the convex end that is
>> the important feature--I didn't notice it until the 2nd picture).
>
>
> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
> metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
> isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but
> there is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
>
>
> Rob
>
Is it a stake anvil? You might drill a pilot hole in a stump to prevent
splitting. Forging could be called flattening. I imagine it could be
used to flatten bent implements, too.
It was probably invented to tenderize beefstakes!
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "axolotl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 1/13/2011 10:39 AM, Rob H. wrote:
>>
>>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>>> answer.
>>
>> Looks like a saw anvil. Pound it into a tree stump and use it to set the
>> teeth of a logging saw.
>>
>> Kevin Gallimore
>
>
> Very close, you're right about it being pounded into a tree stump, but it
> wasn't for saws.
Sickles?
--
Dave Baker
"beecrofter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Jan 13, 4:27 am, "Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
> Rob
The anvil is for peining the edge of a sythe, the steel of which are
softer than you would think and are pounded out thin and work hardened
at the same time and then stoned. A thick edge is useless.
Good answer, this is correct.
Rob
"Alexander Thesoso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> 2140 I've seen a similar tool used to separate fibrous material (flax,
> papyrus, hemp). The worker takes a handful of fibrous stalks, slaps it
> down on the comb and pulls. Repeatedly.
You have the right idea but this one was made to be used with corn husks.
No luck on the two unidentified items but the rest of the answers can be
seen here:
http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html#answers
Rob
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Alexander Thesoso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> 2140 I've seen a similar tool used to separate fibrous material (flax,
>> papyrus, hemp). The worker takes a handful of fibrous stalks, slaps it
>> down on the comb and pulls. Repeatedly.
>
>
> You have the right idea but this one was made to be used with corn husks.
>
> No luck on the two unidentified items but the rest of the answers can be
> seen here:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html#answers
>
>
> Rob
Just found the patent for the last one, turns out that it's a bed tightener,
the patent link has been posted on the answer page.
Rob
>That's an odd one. I understand the metallurgical reasoning, but I
>don't understand the compound curve of the anvil. Wouldn't that tend
>to leave a rippled edge? A rippled edge would be bitch to sharpen.
>Do you have a patent reference on that one by any chance or a link?
>I'd like to read a bit more about it to see how they did it.
I don't have a patent, just the link on the answer page and a reference in
the Dictionary of American Hand Tools.
Rob
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 18:41:46 -0800 (PST)
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>Okay, Ted, thanks for the info. Maybe I'll give it a shot on a hand
>scythe I've never used that's been laying around forever.
>
>R
Not the best copy, but "The Scythe Book" may help. Page 20 has
"peening" info (7.2mb).
http://www.cd3wd.com/cd3wd_40/JF/417/06-273.pdf
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 13:38:25 -0800 (PST)
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>Damn. I knew I should have paid attention in high school hand mowing
>class, but I was more interested in checking out the cute girls in my
>animal husbandry class. ;)
Yes, girls were a distraction, but there wasn't any classes for stuff
like this during my time in school...
My Dad and Grandfather on my Mother's side were the scythe experts,
especially Grandfather. Sadly he passed away long before I had any
interest in such things. Both of them were still swinging scythes to
mow misc things well into their 80's. I still use Dad's old scythe and
just last year bit the bullet and bought a new one. Wanted one with a
brush blade and aluminum snath. I use mine for rough work, weeds,
briers, small saplings... really works a treat on them. For that type
of work they don't need to be razor sharp. If you plan on cutting stuff
like grass though, you want to have it as sharp as you can make it.
That is when some peening would be in order along with some serious
whetting to touch it up every so often during use.
There are several good websites explaining scythe use too.
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
The world needs breeders, too.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"RicodJour" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Damn. I knew I should have paid attention in high school
hand mowing
class, but I was more interested in checking out the cute
girls in my
animal husbandry class. ;)
R
My one grand father was a scrabble player. One
of his sons was known to sneak in a made up
word, now and again. I heard after thier passing
that grand mother "could have beat him at any
time" but let Grand Father win because otherwise
he'd be miserable and pissy.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"RicodJour" <[email protected]>
wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My Dad and Grandfather on my Mother's side were the scythe
> experts,
> especially Grandfather. Sadly he passed away long before I
> had any
> interest in such things. Both of them were still swinging
> scythes to
> mow misc things well into their 80's. I still use Dad's
> old scythe and
> just last year bit the bullet and bought a new one. Wanted
> one with a
> brush blade and aluminum snath. I use mine for rough work,
> weeds,
> briers, small saplings... really works a treat on them.
> For that type
> of work they don't need to be razor sharp. If you plan on
> cutting stuff
> like grass though, you want to have it as sharp as you can
> make it.
> That is when some peening would be in order along with
> some serious
> whetting to touch it up every so often during use.
>
> There are several good websites explaining scythe use too.
You're making it sound fun, and I want to go give it a shot,
but as
there's a foot and a half of snow on the ground I think I'll
wait. ;)
BTW, thanks for the word "snath". Chalk up another one for
the
Scrabble arsenal. I _love_ hearing, "That's not a word!"
R
On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:19:24 -0800 (PST)
RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>I said that in jest. My high school didn't have shop class, or really
>anything. Come to think of it, my high school was a jest but I didn't
>know it at the time.
I suspected that, but not knowing how old or where your are from...
I was lucky, we had a decent shop class in high school. Both wood and
metal, wish I had put more effort into the metal classes.
Nothing in school that would explain how to use a scythe though.
<snip>
>You're making it sound fun, and I want to go give it a shot, but as
>there's a foot and a half of snow on the ground I think I'll wait. ;)
Don't let me woo you, it is work, plain and simple. Wear some decent
gloves or you'll most like get blisters to prove it :) Light cotton
gloves with the rubber facing work pretty good. Give a decent grip and
don't become unbearable during a hot day. I much prefer the sound of
swish, swish, swish rather than the annoying BRAAAAAAP from a
weed-whacker. I have one, but I don't like using it. For tall weeds and
briers I kinda feel that the scythe works better anyway. The downside
is that you end up with a lot of long debris, stalks laying around. For
me this isn't really a problem though and no different than
weed-whackers.
Read, study the part of the book that explains adjusting the handles to
your body. Getting them in approximately the right place to begin with
is a big help. Work with it that way for awhile before making any major
changes. I prefer having both handles on the same side, pointing
towards me. My Dad had one forward and one back. If he was still around
I would ask him why, but I suspect he just started using a scythe with
them positioned that way and just got used to it.
--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email
On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>,
> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Another set has just been posted:
>>
>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>
> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance, usually in
> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>
> Joe Gwinn
How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
the 3 pence, at 16mm.
The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
know it contained 20.
Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another, or
perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
On 1/18/11 9:21 AM, J Burns wrote:
> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>
> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>
> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
> know it contained 20.
>
> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another, or
> perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
US Patents 245 912 (1881), 293 033 (1884), and 366 075 (1887) are for
split-cylinder boxes to hold a certain number of coins. A spring-loaded
button like 2138 at the end of one of these boxes would make it quick
and easy to fill such a box by feel. Presumably the button would be
removable in case lint or grit had to be cleaned out.
On 1/18/11 5:44 PM, J.P. wrote:
> J Burns wrote:
>> On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Another set has just been posted:
>>>>
>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance, usually in
>>> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>>>
>>> Joe Gwinn
>>
>> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>>
>> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
>> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
>> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
>> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>>
>> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
>> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
>> know it contained 20.
>>
>> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another,
>> or perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
>
> You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
> equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
>
>
Wow! How did you find it!
On 1/18/11 6:14 PM, J.P. wrote:
> J Burns wrote:
>> On 1/18/11 5:44 PM, J.P. wrote:
>>> J Burns wrote:
>>>> On 1/16/11 4:28 PM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
>>>>> In article<[email protected]>,
>>>>> "Rob H."<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Another set has just been posted:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>>>> I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance,
>>>>> usually in
>>>>> a store for measuring things sold by weight.
>>>>>
>>>>> Joe Gwinn
>>>> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>>>>
>>>> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
>>>> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the
>>>> diameter of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was
>>>> the 3 pence, at 16mm.
>>>>
>>>> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
>>>> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
>>>> know it contained 20.
>>>>
>>>> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another,
>>>> or perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
>>> You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
>>> equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
>>>
>>>
>>> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Wow! How did you find it!
> I Googled sixpence coin holder!
> Used to have one myself but I never filled it up.
Do you have any pics of it? I don't like to complain, but the ebay one
has unsightly rust.
> How about the end of a holder for 20 six-pence coins?
>
> It would be like a roll of 20 nickels, amounting to a convenient 10
> shillings or 1/2 pound. The diameter of 2138 is 22mm, while the diameter
> of a 6 pence was 19mm. The only other coin small enough was the 3 pence,
> at 16mm.
>
> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with 20,
> and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would know it
> contained 20.
>
> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another, or
> perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
Good guess! And great job on solving this item, I'll pass this information
on to the owner.
Rob
>> The spring would have left the stack loose with 19, made it snug with
>> 20, and not allowed 21. That way, anyone who handled the holder would
>> know it contained 20.
>>
>> Perhaps coins were transferred in a holder from one till to another, or
>> perhaps they were slid into paper rolls.
>
> You're right, it is a sixpence holder that holds up to 20 tanners which
> equals 10 bob. carried in the pocket.
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Antique-Vintage-Sixpence-Pocket-Coin-Holder-Dispenser-/370470490159
Thanks for the link, I'm sure the owner of this one will be happy to get the
answer for it.
Rob
In article <[email protected]>,
"Rob H." <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
I think 2138 is a weight used in an oldtime two-pan balance, usually in
a store for measuring things sold by weight.
Joe Gwinn
Rob H. wrote:
>>> It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece
>>> of metal although not as described above. Actually, the word
>>> 'flattening' isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially
>>> what it does but there is better word for what happens when this tool
>>> is used.
>> ...
>>
>> Unless I'm sorely mistaken, its purpose is to broach square holes in
>> hot plate. One holds it w/ tongs along the grooved sides and whacks
>> the large end away from the pointy one...there's a similar one in the
>> collection of grandfather's old blacksmithing tools and I recall
>> making holes for carriage bolt heads for some hand-manufactured farm
>> implements when I was a kid lo! those many moons ago.
>>
>> Now there may be some other usage that could be made of it as well,
>> but I'm venturing that's the original purpose...
>
>
> Nope. It would have been used by a farmer.
>
>
> Rob
Ive one here, its for sharpening a cythe or cikle by hammering the edge
of the tool to thin it to a razor edge. Its set into a log or piece of wood.
Ive seen them used in Switzerland.
Ted
Dorset UK
"Rob H." wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>>>> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
>>> 2137 Blacksmiths anvil stakes they fit into the Hardy hole on an anvil.
>>
>>
>> It isn't an anvil stake but the work 'anvil' is part of the two word
>> answer.
>>
>>
> 2137 Flattening metal by hand? Place a handle over the tang and pound til
> your hearts content? (I'm convinced it's the convex end that is the
> important feature--I didn't notice it until the 2nd picture).
It's not missing a handle but it is for flattening a particular piece of
metal although not as described above. Actually, the word 'flattening'
isn't the best word to use here, that is essentially what it does but there
is better word for what happens when this tool is used.
Rob
Not like ones I have used, but probably a "flatter"
Steve R.
On 2011-01-13, Rob H. <[email protected]> wrote:
> Another set has just been posted:
>
> http://55tools.blogspot.com/2011/01/set-371.html
Posting from Rec.crafts.metalworking as always:
2137) One of many forms of stakes which are placed in the
hardy hole (the square hole) in an anvil.
2138) Does the back dome invert its curvature and then restore
when released -- often after a delay?
If so -- then it is a variant of a hopping disk -- often it pops
as it is warmed up by resting in a hand.
As for the markings -- they suggest old UK monitory units, 20
shillings 6 pence.
2139) Looks like a removable handle for either a cooking container, or
perhaps a lid for one of the cooking holes in a wood stove.
2140) I don't want to play! :-)
Perhaps for holding one end of some leather as it is being
processed?
2141) Skewers for closing an opening in a carcass while it is
being cooked. The skewers go through from side to side,
and a lacing is put over the skewers on either end to draw the
opening closed.
2142) Something for pulling together two objects to close a gap.
Since back then, adhesives were not strong enough, I suspect
that it was inlaid into a recess in the two objects, and then
the center turnbuckle was used to draw the end pieces (and thus
the two objects) closer together.
Now to see what others have suggested.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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