Local auction will be selling an older Powermatic cabinet saw, Model
71. Searching here reveals little on this saw; www.OWWM has a bit
more, and some pics; a call to Powermatic turns up only scant info, no
manual, and a parts diagram/list (which they helpfully e-mailed).
What I know: early 60s manufacture date; listed as a 12" blade, 230v
saw; the sale saw was probably used in a high school shop (got that
chipped, institutional green, re-paint treatment), has full cast iron
wings but no fence/rails (that I recall), and I haven't looked at the
motor yet (won't be able to power it up).
What might be a reasonable price to give for this saw, given it will
probably need a complete rebuild (which I don't mind doing), possibly a
new motor ($250+), and a fence/rail system ($250+). I currently use an
old c-man contractors that I have sweetly tuned-up. I could possibly
move the fence I now use.
Thanks.
Dan
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Local auction will be selling an older Powermatic cabinet saw, Model
> 71. Searching here reveals little on this saw; www.OWWM has a bit
> more, and some pics; a call to Powermatic turns up only scant info, no
> manual, and a parts diagram/list (which they helpfully e-mailed).
>
> What I know: early 60s manufacture date; listed as a 12" blade, 230v
> saw; the sale saw was probably used in a high school shop (got that
> chipped, institutional green, re-paint treatment), has full cast iron
> wings but no fence/rails (that I recall), and I haven't looked at the
> motor yet (won't be able to power it up).
>
> What might be a reasonable price to give for this saw, given it will
> probably need a complete rebuild (which I don't mind doing), possibly a
> new motor ($250+), and a fence/rail system ($250+). I currently use an
> old c-man contractors that I have sweetly tuned-up. I could possibly
> move the fence I now use.
Given that description, if I can't turn it on, at least turn the arbor
by hand to try to check state of bearings....if it isn't frozen and
feels smooth, I'd give $2-300 at most. If they feel rough or really
stiff, I'd probably pass unless the part diagram shows the spindle
assembly thoroughly enough you can tell whether bearings can be easily
replaced. Of course, it may have used pre-loaded bearings and getting
the proper replacements can be iffy...
That said, the chances are it's a pretty good saw and while cosmetically
rough, quite good chance it's essentially as good as new
operationally...
Rob V wrote:
>
> Just an fyi...
> New bearings can be had for about 15 bux.
>
...
That was my major caveat...sometimes it's not easy to get the right
replacement or there is a one-piece spindle ass'y that is essentially
user-untouchable. These, I gather were an over-the-counter
replacement...that's good and would raise my value limit significantly
to know that a priori.
I ended up getting them Acurate Bearings (I can dig up the number if needed)
Anyways - I told them what type of saw it was - they knew the bearing and
had it out to me the next day.
If i remember correctly it - it was like a 303 or something like that.
Again - I can dig up my notes if anyone wants the exact info.
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rob V wrote:
>>
>> Just an fyi...
>> New bearings can be had for about 15 bux.
>>
> ...
>
> That was my major caveat...sometimes it's not easy to get the right
> replacement or there is a one-piece spindle ass'y that is essentially
> user-untouchable. These, I gather were an over-the-counter
> replacement...that's good and would raise my value limit significantly
> to know that a priori.
replying to d.kessell, Bob A wrote:
Anyone know where I can obtain an arbor for my 71 cabinet saw. The threads
have seen better days. My last resort is going to a machinist and having an
arbor fabricated. Your thoughts
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/powermatic-71-cabinet-saw-3865-.htm
Just an fyi...
New bearings can be had for about 15 bux.
If its from a school - assume its 3 phase - unless you are sure otherwise.
If its 3 phase make sure u know how you are going to power it - either a new
motor or phase converter.
Adjustment of this saw is a bit of a PITA (I have one and rebuild 1 from
scratch - its actaully an ongoing project)
The entire assembly hangs from the table.
On the other hand - it is a tank - cast iron wings on a huge table.
Its worth what you are willing to put into it.
I paid 400 for mine - I replaced the motor ($85.00) and new bearings (15
bux - but a bitch to change)
Took the entire thing apart and blasted everything - in the process of
rebuilding it back.
More of a labor of love and challange than a necessity.
good luck w/ it.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Local auction will be selling an older Powermatic cabinet saw, Model
> 71. Searching here reveals little on this saw; www.OWWM has a bit
> more, and some pics; a call to Powermatic turns up only scant info, no
> manual, and a parts diagram/list (which they helpfully e-mailed).
>
> What I know: early 60s manufacture date; listed as a 12" blade, 230v
> saw; the sale saw was probably used in a high school shop (got that
> chipped, institutional green, re-paint treatment), has full cast iron
> wings but no fence/rails (that I recall), and I haven't looked at the
> motor yet (won't be able to power it up).
>
> What might be a reasonable price to give for this saw, given it will
> probably need a complete rebuild (which I don't mind doing), possibly a
> new motor ($250+), and a fence/rail system ($250+). I currently use an
> old c-man contractors that I have sweetly tuned-up. I could possibly
> move the fence I now use.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dan
>
Duane Bozarth <[email protected]> writes:
> Given that description, if I can't turn it on, at least turn the arbor
> by hand to try to check state of bearings....if it isn't frozen and
> feels smooth, I'd give $2-300 at most.
A tip. (My 1968 34-300 bearings just went, and you can't get them
anymore).
Put a saw blade on the arbor and remove the belt to test this.
Without the weight, the bearings were smooth. With the extra weight, the
roughness was more obvious.
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