Woodwork has always been my Hobby in readings and in daydreams. Now that
I am retiring, I hope to make a hands-on.
I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
I intend to do both not-so-fine jobs like fences, and finer jobs like
cupboards tables and chairs (if I am capable)
Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
Sander
Drill
Router
Thanks in advance
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On 10/21/2004 08:29:29 "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I'm planning to go the bandsaw instead of tablesaw route myself. I don't
>> have either right now (still a newbie) but my plans are to get a bandsaw
>> as my next major purchase. It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
>> bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can. Sheet goods are the
>> main thing that would be challenge (or some cuts impossible) on the
>> bandsaw, but I'll build a foldaway table and a straightedge for my
>> circular saw. You'd need a similar sized outfeed table for the tablesaw
>> anyway.
> Do what you want; I wish you good luck with your bandsaw, should you ever
> buy one.. But since you admit you don't know what you are talking about,
> why are you sharing your opinion with us? Based on your years of
> experience, it really doesn't mean anything, does it?
Are you trying to drive people away from the idea of a hobby in
woodworking?
I didn't bring up the idea, but wanted to continue the discussion. I'd
love to hear more about it from those with more experience. I threw out
what I think I do understand hoping for correction or confirmation, but I
wasn't expecting to be attacked for trying. I'm open to the idea that it's
a bad decision overall. If it is, I'd like to know before plopping down
the money.
Is that a crime on this newsgroup?
On 10/21/2004 22:56:02 "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Re-read the first post. Does that sound like a question or does it sound
> like a statement from someone that has made up his mind. My
> interpretation is that the person made a statement about a decision and
> based the decision on certain facts about the bandsaw safety and its
> capabilities.
OK. Fair enough. In my haste to post, I didn't clearly communicate my
intent. Still, I think the first reply I got was harsh, but that's water
under the bridge. Thanks for your patience.
> If you want an opinion, this is the place to get one. Here's mine:
> Bandsaws are great tools. Every shop should have one. IMO, they should
> also have a tablesaw and if you can only have one at a time, go with the
> tablesaw first.
> If you go back in history, handsaws and planes were used for ripping wood
> and joining pieces together to form wider pieces. It works and can be
> done to perfection. If you enjoy doing that, by all means, go ahead and
> have fun; hand work is very satisfying. OTOH, if you want to rip a board
> to exact size, have it smooth for joining, a good blade on a tablesaw will
> save a lot of time.
> I'm sure you'll find people that have just a bandsaw, or just a RAS, or
> only hand tools. They do good work and enjoy it. That, however, does not
> prove wrong the 98% or more that have a tablesaw.
Thanks for the opinion. I hope you don't mind if I followup and explore it
a bit more. I'm not looking to prove anybody wrong. I'm trying to figure
out what's going to be best for my situation.
On the safety comment, I've read in multiple places that the biggest danger
of tablesaws is kickback. I've also read that bandsaws cannot kickback
since the blade is always moving down. Does that not make them inherently
safer?
I had to make less clear leaps of reason to state that a bandsaw plus
router can do anything a tablesaw can. Would you agree with that in
theory? I understand from a practical standpoint a tablesaw will be more
time efficient in a number of operations. In my situation my time is much
more plentiful than my money or space.
I suppose I'm getting too far offtopic for this thread subject, but I am
envisioning some sort of hybrid setup of power and hand tools for me. I
can't imagine finding the space for a quality tablesaw and planer and
jointer, so I'll have to get comfortable with hand planes, but I don't feel
the need to go completely 'primitive' and swear off power tools altogether.
(Even more offtopic, I need to start a thread to ask how much of planer
operations can be achived with a good wide jointer).
-Greg Vaughn
Greg Vaughn asks:
>On the safety comment, I've read in multiple places that the biggest danger
>of tablesaws is kickback. I've also read that bandsaws cannot kickback
>since the blade is always moving down. Does that not make them inherently
>safer?
Yup.
>I had to make less clear leaps of reason to state that a bandsaw plus
>router can do anything a tablesaw can. Would you agree with that in
>theory? I understand from a practical standpoint a tablesaw will be more
>time efficient in a number of operations.
Nope. Not just more efficient, but more effective. I can take a jointed
board--whether hand or power jointed is irrelevant--a dozen feet long and rip a
parallel side to it quickly and nearly perfectly on the table saw. You may be
able to do that on a bandsaw, but if you can, you'll be the first I've seen. I
can take a sheet of plywood and cut a 30" wide piece for a cabinet. There is no
affordable bandsaw that will do that. I can make easy and accurate crosscuts at
literally any angle with a sled on the table saw. Very few people can operate a
bandsaw that well, and even fewer do.
Adding a router doesn't do a whole lot for the equation.
Bandsaws are marvels for resawing and cutting curves and production (pad)
cutting of odd shaped pieces. Because they are, their construction is such that
accurate and smooth straight line cutting, whether rip or crosscut, is
difficult.
>I suppose I'm getting too far offtopic for this thread subject, but I am
>envisioning some sort of hybrid setup of power and hand tools for me. I
>can't imagine finding the space for a quality tablesaw and planer and
>jointer, so I'll have to get comfortable with hand planes, but I don't feel
>the need to go completely 'primitive' and swear off power tools altogether.
> (Even more offtopic, I need to start a thread to ask how much of planer
>operations can be achived with a good wide jointer).
Hand tools and power tools have mixed well for a long, long time. Centuries, in
fact. Planer operations on a "good wide jointer" work just about as well as
they do on a good, narrow jointer. Not very, in other words. Parallelism is a
problem.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
>
> >I had to make less clear leaps of reason to state that a bandsaw plus
> >router can do anything a tablesaw can. Would you agree with that in
> >theory? I understand from a practical standpoint a tablesaw will be more
> >time efficient in a number of operations.
>
oops, I am getting more confuse than I first started. Surely there must be
simple list
of advantages and disadvantages among the different saws. Scroll, Jig,
circular, and band
and TABLE (what is this?) If a biginner got to choose, ok, two saws, which
two, and what power
should he aquire? "Buy the best you can afford?"
(I assume all brands are almost made equal if price and power are in the
same order.)
How is a 9 " circular saw and a 700 watt jig saw (Bosch 1590 ) combination
sounds? The
circular saw to go straight, and the jig to go crooket.
Is my Hitachi 9" circular fitted onto Triton 2000 same as a table saw?
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chinkc asks:
>oops, I am getting more confuse than I first started. Surely there must be
>simple list
>of advantages and disadvantages among the different saws. Scroll, Jig,
>circular, and band
>and TABLE (what is this?)
Why does there have to be? Different saws have different purposes, usually
stated in any tool book or article.
>If a biginner got to choose, ok, two saws, which
>two, and what power
>should he aquire? "Buy the best you can afford?"
>(I assume all brands are almost made equal if price and power are in the
>same order.)
What does that beginner want to do? It makes one helluva lot of difference.
And no, all brands are not almost made equal if price and power are the same.
>How is a 9 " circular saw and a 700 watt jig saw (Bosch 1590 ) combination
>sounds? The
>circular saw to go straight, and the jig to go crooket.
Carpenter's tools. Good ones, but not true woodworking tools as the only saws
in a shop.
>
>Is my Hitachi 9" circular fitted onto Triton 2000 same as a table saw?
9" circular? Anyway, it's not the same as a table saw unless you like a hard to
adjust, low powered unit. I've got no idea what kind of 9" blades are
available, either, but around here, none, so you'd be SOL there, too.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
I have always bought the tools needed to do the project. Most of time I
justify the tool by all the money I save by doing it myself. After a while
you own every thing. A few more years and you own big medium and small
everything. A few more years and you own 3 or 4 of everything. So you
don't have to change bits/blades constantly. Or because you can't find it
when you need it. Sometimes you buy it because of a great deal. Sometimes
its because yours is a year or so old and the new ones come with some great
new features. No one buys the great (expensive) tools in the beginning.
They always start off with the cheap ones and struggle and cuss before
throwing the junk out and buying good stuff. Don't worry much about
budgets. I don't like to think about how much I've spent over the years.
I agree with Andy - the most used tool in most WW shops is a good table
saw. I would invest half (or more) of your budget there. It was the
first thing I bought 15+ years ago and always wish that I had invested
more $ then. Now I am looking to upgrade to what I should have bought.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, Andy Dingley
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 16:29:15 +0800, "chinkc" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
> >like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
>
> Yeah, don't buy power tools.
>
> I don't know what particular "woodworking" you're thinking of. The
> stuff I make is generally furniture that's some sort of box I can pick
> up and place on my bench, not housebuilding or installed trim. I
> already have most of the hand-held power tools I could ever want, and
> a few of the fixed machines too. The ones I _use_ most are the fixed
> machines, and they're also the ones where I find myself wishing I had
> a better or bigger version of the same tool.
>
> I use a cordless drill a fair bit, but they're so cheap it's crazy not
> to have one. I used to use a router a lot, but much less so since I
> got a decent sawbench. The others - well, I have them, but I really
> don't give them a fraction of the use my bandsaw or jointer get.
>
> The two powered tools I couldn't work without are a decent workbench
> and a decent cabinet saw. Most of the other things I use are hand
> tools, and you don't even need that many of those.
>
> For on-site work, or installing house trim, then I use power tools
> rather more. Not for benchwork though. Buy what you need, when you
> need it. Don't think you need to rush out and drop a few thousand,
> all in one go. Buy some timber, finishing supplies, a few books, some
> really good lighting for the workshop.
>
>
> For metalworking I use a MIG (wire feed) welder, an angle grinder in
> each hand and a spare angle grinder in case I wear one out. There I do
> use more hand-held power tools.
In article <[email protected]>, Pat
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I have always bought the tools needed to do the project. Most of time I
> justify the tool by all the money I save by doing it myself. After a while
> you own every thing. A few more years and you own big medium and small
> everything. A few more years and you own 3 or 4 of everything. So you
> don't have to change bits/blades constantly. Or because you can't find it
> when you need it. Sometimes you buy it because of a great deal. Sometimes
> its because yours is a year or so old and the new ones come with some great
> new features. No one buys the great (expensive) tools in the beginning.
> They always start off with the cheap ones and struggle and cuss before
> throwing the junk out and buying good stuff. Don't worry much about
> budgets. I don't like to think about how much I've spent over the years.
>
I resemble that remark...
Lou
Oh, I envy you having $2000-300 to spend! Are you sure that's enough?
(G)
I. like you, do a variety of things from furnitue to decks and fences.
Here's a list of tools I've found useful, kinda-sorta in order is
usefulness..
- circular saw (which you already have)
- cordless drill (drill bits including counter-sink bits)
- a second cordless drill (one for drilling, one for screwing)
- corded drill
- A 90 degree drill (if you do electrical work in framing) miter saw
(12"
Dewalt)
- jigsaw ( I like Makita 1640 but lot's of folks prefer Bosch 1567)
- table saw and some good blades (Forrest), a good miter fence and
cross-cut
sled
- router (should have a router table, too) and a bunch of bits (not
cheap)
- belt sander
- a dust collection system and accessories (e.g. 2 hp from Jet plus 1
micron
unit from Delta)
- random orbital sander
- a plate joiner (aka biscuit joiner)
- a compressor and power nailers....
- bandsaw & accessories
- spindle sander (depends on what you like to build)
- a mortiser if you do a lot of mortises (or build a router jig to do
the same)
- a drill press if you need lot's of precision holes.
Do forget the myriad of habd tools to complement your power tools:
- some chisels
- some basic hand planes (block, 4 or #4.5 or #5.5, smoother)
- some sharpening stuff (either Japanese watersones, scary sharp, or
Spapton
stones (if you're willing to spend the cash)
- dovetail saws (I like Dozuki's)
- scraper (They're cheap)
A bench with a complement of vises is pretty important, too.
If you win the lottery, which I've been planning on, here's some
luxury purchases:
- the entire Lie-Nielsen (LN) catalog.
- Barr chisels
- A bunch of Steve Knight planes just because they are so pretty.
- a super router table such as those from Incra
- a new house with a detached 1500 sq ft work shop with plenty of 120
and 240
power outlets, a super dust collection system, windows, and plenty
of
heating. I'm so tired of working in the cold!
- Shapton sharpening stones and lapping plate.
Whoa, I better stop lusting here, otherwise it may not pass some of
the internet filters......
"chinkc" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Woodwork has always been my Hobby in readings and in daydreams. Now that
> I am retiring, I hope to make a hands-on.
> I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
> like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
> I intend to do both not-so-fine jobs like fences, and finer jobs like
> cupboards tables and chairs (if I am capable)
>
> Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
> what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
>
> Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
> Sander
> Drill
> Router
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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I suggest you take a woodworking course to find out what the various tools
do and what sort of projects you might be doing.
Any specific advice you get in response to your vague question is likely to
be inappropriate. (Though I did like the fellow who said he got rid of his
tablesaw and hasn't missed it, or the one that said your router should be
Porter-Cable; probably true for those individuals, but as blanket
statements???)
On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 23:18:41 -0500, Greg Vaughn <[email protected]>
wrote:
>It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
>bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can.
Bandsaws aren't much smaller than table saws. The "saw" part is
pretty small, but if you're trying to make it into a table saw
replacement, you start needing that big table to support the
workpiece.
As a substitute for a table saw, I'd want _at_least_ an 18" bandsaw.
Now plenty of people can afford these, or the space for them, but
they're not a budget item.
--
Smert' spamionam
chinkc woke up and had the following words of wisdom ....:
> Woodwork has always been my Hobby in readings and in daydreams. Now
> that I am retiring, I hope to make a hands-on.
> I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I
> would like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
> I intend to do both not-so-fine jobs like fences, and finer jobs like
> cupboards tables and chairs (if I am capable)
>
> Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
> what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
>
> Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
> Sander
> Drill
> Router
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.778 / Virus Database: 525 - Release Date: 10/15/2004
I started out the same way. Here are my acquisitions in the order that I
acquired them:
1. 10" Table saw that was my fathers/grandfathers. Cost including
reconditioning and a REAL good 10" blade. = $200.00
2. Hitachi 12MV Plunger Router. Cost = $199.00.
3. Jet 6" Jointer. Cost $499.00
4. Router table (New Yankee Workshop version). Cost = $250.00
5. Delta Floor model Drill Press. Cost $299.00
6. Misc tools ($150). Router bits ($250.00), Clamps ($150.00), Calipers,
measuring rules ($75.00).
I am just over $2000, but I have enough tools to do cabinets, and other wood
furniture. Just remember to include some of the other items (bits, blades,
clamps, etc) into the total cost of the tools. Nothing like buying $2000
worth of power tools and not have any more money left for the rest of the
items.
JAW
--
Theres a little man in my head, saying things better left unsaid.
> I'm planning to go the bandsaw instead of tablesaw route myself. I don't
> have either right now (still a newbie) but my plans are to get a bandsaw
> as my next major purchase. It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
> bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can. Sheet goods are the
> main thing that would be challenge (or some cuts impossible) on the
> bandsaw, but I'll build a foldaway table and a straightedge for my
> circular saw. You'd need a similar sized outfeed table for the tablesaw
> anyway.
>
Do what you want; I wish you good luck with your bandsaw, should you ever
buy one..
But since you admit you don't know what you are talking about, why are you
sharing your opinion with us? Based on your years of experience, it really
doesn't mean anything, does it?
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 16:29:15 +0800, "chinkc" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
>like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
Yeah, don't buy power tools.
I don't know what particular "woodworking" you're thinking of. The
stuff I make is generally furniture that's some sort of box I can pick
up and place on my bench, not housebuilding or installed trim. I
already have most of the hand-held power tools I could ever want, and
a few of the fixed machines too. The ones I _use_ most are the fixed
machines, and they're also the ones where I find myself wishing I had
a better or bigger version of the same tool.
I use a cordless drill a fair bit, but they're so cheap it's crazy not
to have one. I used to use a router a lot, but much less so since I
got a decent sawbench. The others - well, I have them, but I really
don't give them a fraction of the use my bandsaw or jointer get.
The two powered tools I couldn't work without are a decent workbench
and a decent cabinet saw. Most of the other things I use are hand
tools, and you don't even need that many of those.
For on-site work, or installing house trim, then I use power tools
rather more. Not for benchwork though. Buy what you need, when you
need it. Don't think you need to rush out and drop a few thousand,
all in one go. Buy some timber, finishing supplies, a few books, some
really good lighting for the workshop.
For metalworking I use a MIG (wire feed) welder, an angle grinder in
each hand and a spare angle grinder in case I wear one out. There I do
use more hand-held power tools.
--
Smert' spamionam
"Greg Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message >
> On the safety comment, I've read in multiple places that the biggest
> danger
> of tablesaws is kickback. I've also read that bandsaws cannot kickback
> since the blade is always moving down. Does that not make them inherently
> safer?
To some extent it may be safer as far as kickback. Couple of weeks ago I had
the bandsaw grab a piece of wood I was cutting. It bent the blade, bent the
insert and scared the crap out of me more than the tablsaw ever did. My
tablesaw has a guard in place most of the time and I use push sticks etc.
The bandsaw can have 6" of blade exposed and I'm moving the work around with
my hands. If it can resaw a piece of 6" oak, it can lop off a finger.
>
> I had to make less clear leaps of reason to state that a bandsaw plus
> router can do anything a tablesaw can. Would you agree with that in
> theory? I understand from a practical standpoint a tablesaw will be more
> time efficient in a number of operations. In my situation my time is much
> more plentiful than my money or space.
Theory, yes. Take a simple dado. It may take two or three passes with a
router versus one over a dado blade in the saw. How about a dado or rabbet
on an angle?
>
> I suppose I'm getting too far offtopic for this thread subject, but I am
> envisioning some sort of hybrid setup of power and hand tools for me. I
> can't imagine finding the space for a quality tablesaw and planer and
> jointer, so I'll have to get comfortable with hand planes, but I don't
> feel
> the need to go completely 'primitive' and swear off power tools
> altogether.
Most of us have some combination. No one tool is bets for everything.
> (Even more offtopic, I need to start a thread to ask how much of planer
> operations can be achived with a good wide jointer).
I don't own a jointer yet. IMO, the planer is more useful if you only have
one tool, but other will say the opposite. I can easily buy jointed wood,
or use a shimmed sled on the planer easier than I can get wood thicknessed
on the spot when I need it.
Ed
On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 03:52:32 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
> (Though I did like the fellow who said he got rid of his
>tablesaw and hasn't missed it,
He didn't get rid of it, he replaced it with a bandsaw.
Now I can't see myself doing that, and I'd want a bigger and better
bandsaw before I even tried to, but I can see the logic in it.
Absolutely. A good table saw is critical, and make sure it has an
excellent fence. You could break your budget on that item alone....
Dave
"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:171020041221486360%[email protected]...
>I agree with Andy - the most used tool in most WW shops is a good table
> saw. I would invest half (or more) of your budget there. It was the
> first thing I bought 15+ years ago and always wish that I had invested
> more $ then. Now I am looking to upgrade to what I should have bought.
>
> Lou
>
> In article <[email protected]>, Andy Dingley
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 16:29:15 +0800, "chinkc" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I
>> >would
>> >like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
>>
>> Yeah, don't buy power tools.
>>
>> I don't know what particular "woodworking" you're thinking of. The
>> stuff I make is generally furniture that's some sort of box I can pick
>> up and place on my bench, not housebuilding or installed trim. I
>> already have most of the hand-held power tools I could ever want, and
>> a few of the fixed machines too. The ones I _use_ most are the fixed
>> machines, and they're also the ones where I find myself wishing I had
>> a better or bigger version of the same tool.
>>
>> I use a cordless drill a fair bit, but they're so cheap it's crazy not
>> to have one. I used to use a router a lot, but much less so since I
>> got a decent sawbench. The others - well, I have them, but I really
>> don't give them a fraction of the use my bandsaw or jointer get.
>>
>> The two powered tools I couldn't work without are a decent workbench
>> and a decent cabinet saw. Most of the other things I use are hand
>> tools, and you don't even need that many of those.
>>
>> For on-site work, or installing house trim, then I use power tools
>> rather more. Not for benchwork though. Buy what you need, when you
>> need it. Don't think you need to rush out and drop a few thousand,
>> all in one go. Buy some timber, finishing supplies, a few books, some
>> really good lighting for the workshop.
>>
>>
>> For metalworking I use a MIG (wire feed) welder, an angle grinder in
>> each hand and a spare angle grinder in case I wear one out. There I do
>> use more hand-held power tools.
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 22:06:45 -0500, Greg Vaughn <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 10/21/2004 08:29:29 "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> I'm planning to go the bandsaw instead of tablesaw route myself. I don't
>>> have either right now (still a newbie) but my plans are to get a bandsaw
>>> as my next major purchase. It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
>>> bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can. Sheet goods are the
>>> main thing that would be challenge (or some cuts impossible) on the
>>> bandsaw, but I'll build a foldaway table and a straightedge for my
>>> circular saw. You'd need a similar sized outfeed table for the tablesaw
>>> anyway.
>
>> Do what you want; I wish you good luck with your bandsaw, should you ever
>> buy one.. But since you admit you don't know what you are talking about,
>> why are you sharing your opinion with us? Based on your years of
>> experience, it really doesn't mean anything, does it?
>
>Are you trying to drive people away from the idea of a hobby in
>woodworking?
>
>I didn't bring up the idea, but wanted to continue the discussion. I'd
>love to hear more about it from those with more experience. I threw out
>what I think I do understand hoping for correction or confirmation, but I
>wasn't expecting to be attacked for trying. I'm open to the idea that it's
>a bad decision overall. If it is, I'd like to know before plopping down
>the money.
>
>Is that a crime on this newsgroup?
hey, it's usenet. off topic, flames and trolls are part of the ticket.
bandsaws are great. tablesaws are great. there is a little overlap of
function, but not much. which you get first will depend on what you're
planning to do.
Me, I got a table saw and a good jigsaw first. Later I got a band saw.
YMMV.
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:fyycd.125616$a41.85387@pd7tw2no...
> Absolutely. A good table saw is critical, and make sure it has an
> excellent fence. You could break your budget on that item alone....
>
And use the blade that come with it for when you have to hack up some 2 x
4s. Get a good blade for any good projects. Ridge Carbide
www.ridgecarbidetool.com or Forrest, and maybe a couple of other good ones
should be considered.
In article <[email protected]>,
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 03:52:32 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > (Though I did like the fellow who said he got rid of his
> >tablesaw and hasn't missed it,
>
> He didn't get rid of it, he replaced it with a bandsaw.
>
> Now I can't see myself doing that, and I'd want a bigger and better
> bandsaw before I even tried to, but I can see the logic in it.
I'm planning to go the bandsaw instead of tablesaw route myself. I don't
have either right now (still a newbie) but my plans are to get a bandsaw
as my next major purchase. It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can. Sheet goods are the
main thing that would be challenge (or some cuts impossible) on the
bandsaw, but I'll build a foldaway table and a straightedge for my
circular saw. You'd need a similar sized outfeed table for the tablesaw
anyway.
-Greg Vaughn
My table saw (a PM 66) is probably the most used power tool in my
shop. I would second the jointer (DJ 8) and drill press.
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 16:29:15 +0800, "chinkc" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Woodwork has always been my Hobby in readings and in daydreams. Now that
>I am retiring, I hope to make a hands-on.
>I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
>like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
>I intend to do both not-so-fine jobs like fences, and finer jobs like
>cupboards tables and chairs (if I am capable)
>
>Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
>what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
>
>Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
>Sander
>Drill
>Router
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>
>
>
>
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On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 00:01:38 -0500, Greg Vaughn <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>On the safety comment, I've read in multiple places that the biggest danger
>of tablesaws is kickback. I've also read that bandsaws cannot kickback
>since the blade is always moving down. Does that not make them inherently
>safer?
yes. note that bandsaws will remove fingers just as well as table
saws.
>
>I had to make less clear leaps of reason to state that a bandsaw plus
>router can do anything a tablesaw can. Would you agree with that in
>theory?
no. bandsaws have very limited rip widths.
> I understand from a practical standpoint a tablesaw will be more
>time efficient in a number of operations. In my situation my time is much
>more plentiful than my money or space.
>
>I suppose I'm getting too far offtopic for this thread subject, but I am
>envisioning some sort of hybrid setup of power and hand tools for me. I
>can't imagine finding the space for a quality tablesaw and planer and
>jointer, so I'll have to get comfortable with hand planes, but I don't feel
>the need to go completely 'primitive' and swear off power tools altogether.
> (Even more offtopic, I need to start a thread to ask how much of planer
>operations can be achived with a good wide jointer).
that thread is years old. google is your friend:
<http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?dq=&num=25&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&group=rec.woodworking>
>
>-Greg Vaughn
I am not going to argue with you . BUT you better buy a
darn good Bandsaw
I guess it really boils down to what you are planning on making...
But if you plan on tables, desks, etc...There is absolutely no way I
would be without my Tablesaw....
Honestly getting a straight cut using a Bandsaw is a lot more time
consuming and much more dificult then using a Tablesaw..
On the saftey issue you bring up...with 40+ years in the shop I do not
think of the bandsaw as being any safer to use then a Tablesaw I do
not ever flip the switch and start the blade moving before I put my
brain in gear no mater if I am using a hand saw or a power tool...
Sheet goods ... lol... They are a challenge even using a Cabinet
Saw with a large outfeed table ... I haul out the straight edge and
use a circular saw almost all the time to rough cut a 4x8 sheet of
plywood etc down to a reasonable size...
Bob Griffiths
chinkc wrote:
> Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
> what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
>
> Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
I don't think you can do better. I have that one and absolutely love it.
> Sander
You need more than one for different jobs. Dewalt makes a nice belt sander
(DW433... $179) 3"X21" is probably the most useful size. A 6" random orbital
sander is also an excellent purchase. I bought the Ridgid R2610 ($139) on the
advice of one of the woodworking reviews as a best buy and like it as well. I
also own a finishing sander (Makita) and a detail sander.
> Drill
Start out with one of the best and then you won't need to upgrade later. The
only time you enjoy a cheap tool is the day you pay for it. I suggest the
Milwaukee 18V hammer drill (0624-24... $249). Dewalt and Bosch make some fine
ones too.
> Router
Porter Cable. Beyond that, it depends on your intended use. I own a big 3.25
HP router that is mounted in a table and a smaller one for use as a hand held.
I use them both and have no regrets. Don't screw around with 1/4" bits; get the
1/2" ones from the gitgo.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
http://www.mortimerschnerd.com
"Greg Vaughn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
:
Greg first wrote:
>>> I'm planning to go the bandsaw instead of tablesaw route myself. I
>>> don't
>>> have either right now (still a newbie) but my plans are to get a bandsaw
>>> as my next major purchase. It's smaller, safer, and there's not much a
>>> bandsaw plus router can't do that a tablesaw can.
And now he says:
> Are you trying to drive people away from the idea of a hobby in
> woodworking?
>
> I didn't bring up the idea, but wanted to continue the discussion. I'd
> love to hear more about it from those with more experience. I threw out
> what I think I do understand hoping for correction or confirmation, but I
> wasn't expecting to be attacked for trying. I'm open to the idea that
> it's
> a bad decision overall. If it is, I'd like to know before plopping down
> the money.
>
> Is that a crime on this newsgroup?
Re-read the first post. Does that sound like a question or does it sound
like a statement from someone that has made up his mind. My interpretation
is that the person made a statement about a decision and based the decision
on certain facts about the bandsaw safety and its capabilities.
If you want an opinion, this is the place to get one. Here's mine:
Bandsaws are great tools. Every shop should have one. IMO, they should also
have a tablesaw and if you can only have one at a time, go with the
tablesaw first.
If you go back in history, handsaws and planes were used for ripping wood
and joining pieces together to form wider pieces. It works and can be done
to perfection. If you enjoy doing that, by all means, go ahead and have
fun; hand work is very satisfying. OTOH, if you want to rip a board to
exact size, have it smooth for joining, a good blade on a tablesaw will save
a lot of time.
I'm sure you'll find people that have just a bandsaw, or just a RAS, or only
hand tools. They do good work and enjoy it. That, however, does not prove
wrong the 98% or more that have a tablesaw.
>In article <[email protected]>, Pat
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have always bought the tools needed to do the project. Most of time I
>> justify the tool by all the money I save by doing it myself. After a while
>> you own every thing. A few more years and you own big medium and small
>> everything. A few more years and you own 3 or 4 of everything. So you
>> don't have to change bits/blades constantly. Or because you can't find it
>> when you need it.
When I cannot find tool X1 in my "collection", it must be time to
purchase tool X2 (which is newer, of course) in order to search for
tool X1.
Maybe homing devices are built into each one or when X2 shows up, X1
can quit playing hide-and-seek. Either that day or the next, X1
invariably appears and I then recall why I left it where it was found.
On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 16:29:15 +0800, "chinkc" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Woodwork has always been my Hobby in readings and in daydreams. Now that
>I am retiring, I hope to make a hands-on.
>I bought myself a Titan 2000, a 9" circular saw by Hitachi, and now I would
>like to get some other power tools and hope for advise here.
>I intend to do both not-so-fine jobs like fences, and finer jobs like
>cupboards tables and chairs (if I am capable)
>
>Limiting resources to $2-3000 for power tools,
>what and which power tools (brand and models) should I aquire?
>
>Jigsaw...... Bosch 1590EVSK ?
Hard to beat that
>Sander
One good ROS, PC or Bosch, and then some cheapies for other uses, as
required
>Drill
Cheap works for me, I have about 5, almost easier to buy a new one
than change bits ! A low-mid quality drill press (Ryobi) gets a lot of
use.
>Router
I started with a cheapie, then bought the Triton, it's fantastic, but
the cheapie still gets used. But, don't overlook the cost of router
bits, they can add up.
I have to disagree with most other posters, I had a table saw, as well
as an 18" BS. Hardly used the TS, so got rid of it, Have hardly missed
it, as the BS gets used so much more and can do things no TS can. The
odd time I need something resembling a TS, I can easily make do with a
circular saw and sawhorses.
Others opinions will differ, but that's how I find it.
Barry Lennox