Chisel and scraper sounds like your only option. Remember, just paring
flush can still leave glue ghosts, so make sure you scrape and/or sand what
you can't see, too.
"Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I think I basically screwed up. I saw the drips.. but figured I would come
> back and clean up all the drip marks at one time. So on one piece it has
> been almost 2 months.. arghh.. the other piece was yesterday and I started
> taking the glue off last night. In case it matters, this is on soft
white
> maple
Michael Baglio wrote:
>I tried those bread tabs, too small for my clumsy mitts.
>
>I get a couple of credit card offers a week, and they usually have a
>fake card stuck to the flyer. They make _great_ glue scrapers.
>Really excellent when scraping not-quite-hardened glue off of table
>tops, as they're much less prone to tearring out the underlying wood
>fibers than steel scrapers are.
>
>If you travel, you get a free future glue scraper every time they give
>you a card-type room key. ;>
>
>Michael Baglio
>
>
>
>
And they make great glue spreaders too...
TWS
"Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have almost finished assembling my first real piece of furniture. A
>mission style bed. I have definately learned alot, especially not to use
>quite as much glue - and to have things dry where the glue won't run. So..
>how do I clean up glue drips, especially in tight places? Thanks.
>
Use a scraper, or a piece of sand paper wrapped around a small block of
wood.
I generally inspect the whole glue up after clamping to look for runs. For
me I always use a water soaked paper towel to thoroughly wipe the glue off
and turning frequently.
"Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I have almost finished assembling my first real piece of furniture. A
> mission style bed. I have definately learned alot, especially not to
> use quite as much glue - and to have things dry where the glue won't
> run. So.. how do I clean up glue drips, especially in tight places?
> Thanks.
What glue you use seems to make a bigger difference than one might expect.
Since Mission furniture uses a lot of mortise and tenon joints, getting the
glue process right has a big influence on how well you succeed. And on how
much pressure the worker is under.
I found this Titebond Molding and Trim Glue product at my local, full-
service hardware store:
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryT
B.asp?prodcat=1
I like the working characteristics. It dries clear. It fills minor gaps.
The squeezeout doesn't seem so brittle as to damage edge tools. Mostly, it
stays where you put it. Since it doesn't run, you have to brush it into
place. A disposable acid-flux style brush works well, for a dime or so
each.
There are certainly drawbacks, I'm sure, but for fussy glueups, where the
joinery provides sufficient strength, I like it.
My guess is that products offered by Lee Valley and Garrett-Wade have
similar working characteristics, although I haven't tried them.
On a related note: Mission style often implies oak. Oak doesn't like
having glue smeared, wiped, scrubbed or even pried off of the surface. Red
oak, with its open grain structure, is even less tolerant of such
processes. All the more reason to practice a little ahead of time, so as
not to hurt your main project.
Now, go have some fun with your project!
Patriarch
On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 08:01:51 -0500, Conan the Librarian
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:
>Greg wrote:
>
>> Removing the glue before it sets is sometimes easier. A wet rag or
>> sponge works. Excess glue in the grain of the wood interferes with
>> finishing.
>>
>> Once it dries, use a flat chisel, corner chisel, or razor blade to cut
>> it off. A bladed paint scraper can be used in some places. Sanding
>> will not work.
>>
>> Next time, consider the use of blue painters tape to limit where the
>> squeeze-out is able to adhere.
>
> Good advice. Especially on glue-ups like boxes and such, I take a
>little extra time to tape off the spots that will be tought to reach
>later on.
I find that the new masking tape (double the price of the old,
thinner, much smoother) works as well as the totally overpriced
blue painter's tape, but I don't leave it on there for very long.
> Also, if you let the squeezeout set up for 15-20 minutes (depending
>on temp), you can use a plastic tab (like the kind that used to come on
>breadbags) to peel off the excess glue.
Plastic tab, chisel, cabinet scraper, etc. Whatever fits.
> I never almost use a wet sponge or rag, as I feel it forces the glue
>deeper into the pores of the wood and will interfere with finishing.
Nahm's got Strings on that one.
--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design
Greg wrote:
> Removing the glue before it sets is sometimes easier. A wet rag or
> sponge works. Excess glue in the grain of the wood interferes with
> finishing.
>
> Once it dries, use a flat chisel, corner chisel, or razor blade to cut
> it off. A bladed paint scraper can be used in some places. Sanding
> will not work.
>
> Next time, consider the use of blue painters tape to limit where the
> squeeze-out is able to adhere.
Good advice. Especially on glue-ups like boxes and such, I take a
little extra time to tape off the spots that will be tought to reach
later on.
Also, if you let the squeezeout set up for 15-20 minutes (depending
on temp), you can use a plastic tab (like the kind that used to come on
breadbags) to peel off the excess glue.
I never almost use a wet sponge or rag, as I feel it forces the glue
deeper into the pores of the wood and will interfere with finishing.
Chuck Vance
I find the best way for me is to slice the dried glue bead off a sharp flush
trim chisel and then a sharp cabinet scraper or chisel to tidy up. Paint
scrapers tend to chew things up too much and water will spreads the glue
around and leaves residue below the wood surface. Most times a faint glue
stain won't affect things or be notice but for the furniture I make I won't
take the risk. Painters blue or green masking tape can go along way to
reduce the amount of squeeze out you have to clean up later, don't use
regular white masking tape - you'll wished you haden't.
"Stacey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have almost finished assembling my first real piece of furniture. A
>mission style bed. I have definately learned alot, especially not to use
>quite as much glue - and to have things dry where the glue won't run. So..
>how do I clean up glue drips, especially in tight places? Thanks.
>
> Stacey
>
On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 08:01:51 -0500, Conan the Librarian
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Good advice. Especially on glue-ups like boxes and such, I take a
>little extra time to tape off the spots that will be tought to reach
>later on.
>
> Also, if you let the squeezeout set up for 15-20 minutes (depending
>on temp), you can use a plastic tab (like the kind that used to come on
>breadbags) to peel off the excess glue.
I tried those bread tabs, too small for my clumsy mitts.
I get a couple of credit card offers a week, and they usually have a
fake card stuck to the flyer. They make _great_ glue scrapers.
Really excellent when scraping not-quite-hardened glue off of table
tops, as they're much less prone to tearring out the underlying wood
fibers than steel scrapers are.
If you travel, you get a free future glue scraper every time they give
you a card-type room key. ;>
Michael Baglio
Conan the Librarian said:
>Greg wrote:
>
>> Removing the glue before it sets is sometimes easier. A wet rag or
>> sponge works. Excess glue in the grain of the wood interferes with
>> finishing.
>>
>> Once it dries, use a flat chisel, corner chisel, or razor blade to cut
>> it off. A bladed paint scraper can be used in some places. Sanding
>> will not work.
>>
>> Next time, consider the use of blue painters tape to limit where the
>> squeeze-out is able to adhere.
>
> Good advice. Especially on glue-ups like boxes and such, I take a
>little extra time to tape off the spots that will be tought to reach
>later on.
>
> Also, if you let the squeezeout set up for 15-20 minutes (depending
>on temp), you can use a plastic tab (like the kind that used to come on
>breadbags) to peel off the excess glue.
>
> I never almost use a wet sponge or rag, as I feel it forces the glue
>deeper into the pores of the wood and will interfere with finishing.
Good advice as well. When it does happen to me, I use a fresh wet
rag, and have to scrub the bejesus out of it to get it out of the
grain - turning the rag often to present a clean surface. This also
results in grain raising. The subsequent sanding usually removes the
residual glue - but not always, as there can be a slight lightening of
the dye or stain in that area. But it sure beats a huge yellow spot!
I have learned to eliminate the problem as best as possible with tape.
FWIW,
Greg G.
I think I basically screwed up. I saw the drips.. but figured I would come
back and clean up all the drip marks at one time. So on one piece it has
been almost 2 months.. arghh.. the other piece was yesterday and I started
taking the glue off last night. In case it matters, this is on soft white
maple
<Greg G.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Stacey said:
>
>>I have almost finished assembling my first real piece of furniture. A
>>mission style bed. I have definately learned alot, especially not to use
>>quite as much glue - and to have things dry where the glue won't run.
>>So..
>>how do I clean up glue drips, especially in tight places? Thanks.
>
> Removing the glue before it sets is sometimes easier. A wet rag or
> sponge works. Excess glue in the grain of the wood interferes with
> finishing.
>
> Once it dries, use a flat chisel, corner chisel, or razor blade to cut
> it off. A bladed paint scraper can be used in some places. Sanding
> will not work.
>
> Next time, consider the use of blue painters tape to limit where the
> squeeze-out is able to adhere.
>
> FWIW,
>
> Greg G.
Stacey said:
>I have almost finished assembling my first real piece of furniture. A
>mission style bed. I have definately learned alot, especially not to use
>quite as much glue - and to have things dry where the glue won't run. So..
>how do I clean up glue drips, especially in tight places? Thanks.
Removing the glue before it sets is sometimes easier. A wet rag or
sponge works. Excess glue in the grain of the wood interferes with
finishing.
Once it dries, use a flat chisel, corner chisel, or razor blade to cut
it off. A bladed paint scraper can be used in some places. Sanding
will not work.
Next time, consider the use of blue painters tape to limit where the
squeeze-out is able to adhere.
FWIW,
Greg G.