Polyshades is essentially a polyurethane toner. It appears to contain
pigments as well as dyes. It is the pigments that cause multiple coats to
eventually hide any visible wood grain. It starts to behave like paint in
that respect when multiple coats are applied.
The streaks are due to overlapped brush strokes. The areas where the
strokes have overlapped are the equivalent of two coats of Polyshades. That
makes them darker or more opaque than the areas where there is just a single
brush stroke. I suggest that you thin out the Polyshades about 20% with
mineral spirits, try to get just the thinnest overlap between brush strokes,
and that you tip off freshly polyurethaned areas.
Gummed up dark spots suggest inadequate mixing of the product or a very
thick coat at those spots.
I have used this product a few times when I am too lazy to make my own
toner. It works as advertised but you have to understand its limitations.
Minwax won't really tell you what they are.
Good Luck.
"Christopher M. Nail" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like a little feedback concerning the Polyshades product. I've
used
> this crap twice and have had bad luck both times. The directions read
that
> you must keep a wet edge, but I keep getting streaks or gummed-up dark
> spots. Has anyone had much luck with this product?
>
> Thanks.....
> --
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
Chris,
Try using a foam brush, and brushing it out WELL. Use a VERY THIN coat and
build up to the desired color/tone.
I've used the stuff a couple of times . . . in 'Burma Teakwood'. If you put
it on per the instructions on the can, it looks like a reddish-black paint.
I've also used it like a 'stain', slathering it on, then waiting a few
minutes and wiping it off - sometimes having to slather on more to dissolve
some gummy areas.
I did this about 7 years ago to simulate that 'classic Chris Craft stern' on
a Norwegian-style tender I built. Last year the owner called me. He had
damaged a small part and wanted it replaced. When I looked at it, it was
obvious the boat had no upkeep - but the hull *seemed* sound. Until we
turned it over. It wasn't just a 'small part', but both transoms had rotted
out . . . from the inside . . . because it had been stored in contact with
wet ground !! HOWEVER, the outside where I had fiberglass & epoxy covered
them and used the Polyshades, overcoated with Spar varnish . . . except for
some dirt, looked just like they had left the shop.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{NO - I am not a heretic, but I am a heathen}
"Christopher M. Nail" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like a little feedback concerning the Polyshades product. I've
used
> this crap twice and have had bad luck both times. The directions read
that
> you must keep a wet edge, but I keep getting streaks or gummed-up dark
> spots. Has anyone had much luck with this product?
>
> Thanks.....
> --
> Chris
Thin 20 -30 %, foam brush and work fast.
"Christopher M. Nail" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would like a little feedback concerning the Polyshades product. I've
used
> this crap twice and have had bad luck both times. The directions read
that
> you must keep a wet edge, but I keep getting streaks or gummed-up dark
> spots. Has anyone had much luck with this product?
>
> Thanks.....
> --
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
"Christopher M. Nail" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I would like a little feedback concerning the Polyshades product. I've
>used
> this crap twice and have had bad luck both times. The directions read
> that
> you must keep a wet edge, but I keep getting streaks or gummed-up dark
> spots. Has anyone had much luck with this product?
>
I have used it a couple times with exactly the same result. Bad product
with one good use; if the old finish is too much trouble to remove, the
polyshades will go on right over the old finish. It still gobs and drips,
but you can't have everything. I have only needed it for that once.