Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, each a=
bout 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but would like=
to try raised floating panels for this project. Router table or TS? I do=
n't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. A bit concerned =
about the safety of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
Larry
On 12/26/2012 9:51 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
>
> Larry
>
Either way Larry,
The TS is not very difficult or dangerous.
I would put a raised fence on your fence for support and a raised
feather board to keep it against the fence above the blade. I don't but
it will protect your fingers.
If I cut on the ts, I use a handscrew on the top of the raised fence,
attached to the panel, it prevents me from slipping out and away. I also
feather right before the blade.
As for router bits, you can, and I do also, but it takes much longer.
You need to sneak up on the finished cuts. Take 1/8 at a time. Process
the endgrain first, then long grain. It pays to have a backer for the
endgrain,
You have way more options with a router bit, but you need to slow the
speed down quite a bit.
Practice first, then go for it. Make sure you use a zero clearance
insert on your fence, it helps to keep it cleaner.
Whatever you choose, you can't go wrong. Base it on the look you want.
Do you plan on backcutting? You don't need a dedicated panel bit that
back cuts. I don't back cut, but if I had to, I would just use a rabbet
bit, a mortise bit, or even a dishing bit (bowl /tray bit).
Experiment, relax.
On Dec 27, 11:25=A0am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> On 12/26/2012 8:51 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
>
> > Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, ea=
ch about 17" square. =A0I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but woul=
d like to try raised floating panels for this project. =A0Router table or T=
S? =A0I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. =A0A bi=
t concerned about the safety of the cut on the TS. =A0Thoughts?
>
> > Larry
>
> Either will work however you have a much much greater choice of profiles
> going with the router bit. =A0And if you go with a router bit you are
> absolutely going to want to be spinning a 1/2" shank bit.
Larry,
I did all of my kitchen cabinets with raised panels (with a cove) on
the TS. You'll need to secure a fence at a 45 degree angle to blade.
Push each panel thru slowly, raising the blade after each pass around
the panels. The end-grain may require additional sanding to get rid
of the cut marks.
Robin
On 12/26/2012 8:51 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
>
> Larry
>
Either will work however you have a much much greater choice of profiles
going with the router bit. And if you go with a router bit you are
absolutely going to want to be spinning a 1/2" shank bit.
Gramp's shop wrote:
> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
>
> Larry
Larry, I have been reading about this stuff. Did you know that besides
a bevel cut, that you can achieve a cove cut (pretty much the same way
we discussed making crown) on a tablesaw? My reading suggested not
using square doors and going with a ratioof 5:3 or someother ratio of
integers besides 1:1. Maybe this should be discounted since you'll have
2 doors side-by-side. Ihope you'll proceed with this project, then I can
get the benefit of your experience! : )
Cheers,
Bill
Gramp's shop wrote:
> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
>
> Larry
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/departments/building-skills/making-a-raised-panel-shaker-cabinet-door-on-a-tablesaw.aspx
Larry, You might enjoy the link above. With a little more effort you
might be able to make one with a cove rather than a bevel cut.
Bill
steve robinson wrote:
> rlz wrote:
>
>> On Dec 27, 11:25 am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>> On 12/26/2012 8:51 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
>>>
>>>> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two
>>>> doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood
>>>> panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this
>>>> project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but
>>>> willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety
>>>> of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
>>>
>>>> Larry
>>>
>>> Either will work however you have a much much greater choice of
>>> profiles going with the router bit. And if you go with a router
>>> bit you are absolutely going to want to be spinning a 1/2" shank
>>> bit.
>>
>> Larry,
>> I did all of my kitchen cabinets with raised panels (with a cove) on
>> the TS. You'll need to secure a fence at a 45 degree angle to blade.
>> Push each panel thru slowly, raising the blade after each pass around
>> the panels. The end-grain may require additional sanding to get rid
>> of the cut marks.
>>
>> Robin
>
> if the end grain needs additional sanding your using the wrong cutter
> or the cutters blunt.
You missed it Steve - he's using a table saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Gramp's shop wrote:
> Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two doors,
> each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood panels,
> but would like to try raised floating panels for this project.
> Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but willing to make
> the investment. A bit concerned about the safety of the cut on the
> TS. Thoughts?
>
> Larry
If you fix your panel to a bench and use waste stock to encapsulate it
(same thickness as your panel you dont need a router table.
Just take small slices over several passes and dont force the machine
rlz wrote:
> On Dec 27, 11:25 am, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> > On 12/26/2012 8:51 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> >
> > > Working on a hard maple dining room buffet that will have two
> > > doors, each about 17" square. I usually opt for floating plywood
> > > panels, but would like to try raised floating panels for this
> > > project. Router table or TS? I don't have a panel bit, but
> > > willing to make the investment. A bit concerned about the safety
> > > of the cut on the TS. Thoughts?
> >
> > > Larry
> >
> > Either will work however you have a much much greater choice of
> > profiles going with the router bit. And if you go with a router
> > bit you are absolutely going to want to be spinning a 1/2" shank
> > bit.
>
> Larry,
> I did all of my kitchen cabinets with raised panels (with a cove) on
> the TS. You'll need to secure a fence at a 45 degree angle to blade.
> Push each panel thru slowly, raising the blade after each pass around
> the panels. The end-grain may require additional sanding to get rid
> of the cut marks.
>
> Robin
if the end grain needs additional sanding your using the wrong cutter
or the cutters blunt.