It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
or more of these almost every day.
The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
the height.
Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
would help much either.
Suggestions welcome.
Norm
Norm Dresner wrote:
> | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop
> | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
>
> That's the simplest solution of all.
But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't
found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for
pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no
dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them.
Don't chair makers need bits like these?
> Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good
> suggestion.
Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real
McCoy.
JP
Fill spare cup with cement. Leave a threaded metal rod centered in the
concrete. You could do this by putting into a scrap board and balancing
over the cup. When dried, glue some sandpaper to the outside of the
cup. Chuck in the DP and Sand to size.
However, I agree with the comment that you are over-thinking. A round
hole should work fine.
i love the concrete idea.
standard tapers in machine tooling, including reamers, are Morse, Browne &
Sharpe, Jarno, American National Standard Machine Tapers, American National
Standard Taper Pipe.
After consulting about seventeen cross-referenced tables I realized these
won't help.
large = expensive anyways. You could get an entire concrete truck delivered
to the country.
I've never even tried reaming wood.
what am i doing?
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This is not expert advise. If u want, take a paddle bit, and grind the
angle /^\ from|^|. Then, or at the same time, grind a sharp cutting arriss
on the 2 side that touch first as it rotates. Maybe 45°. If you predrill,
maybe with a hole saw, then you are cutting only on the side, and do not
need to retain any front cutting edge. I can't think of the cutting edge on
the face, don't know if thos lips are essential.^---^
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Norm Dresner wrote:
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
Build a tray to hold however many cups you need with a little room
between each cup. The rim of the cups should be just a little higher
than the top edge of the tray. Use a carpet tack, or similar, and nail
the cups to the bottom of the tray, cups spaced as required. Pour
plaster into the tray up to the top edge. Let set, pull carpet tacks,
remove cups (no need to grease them - they'll pop out easily).
R
I suggested (again) grinding the sides on the tapered the paddle bit. That
may not do anything but squeek. If you were intent, (not that crazy) you
may have to take a dremel tool, and grind a groove. Grind it on the face,
parallel to the side you tapered, again on the side that first touches as
the bit spins, so that the cutting chips curl around backward and break off.
It has to give the leading edge of the chip encouragement to separate, or
rip. It ain't rocket science. And the difference between failure and
success can be very minor indeed.
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David wrote:
> >
> The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
> suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
> RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
> that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
> another question about ANYTHING.
Frankly, there were a fair number of suggestions that required a fair
amount of effort and probably buying new tools. I love wood, but I
also love being efficient. Making a holder for paint and glue
cups...the thing ain't going to be looking good for long, so why go to
the effort? The only reason I mentioned a wood frame, was to keep some
wood in the project. Otherwise, I would take the foam box from a dozen
eggs and pour in some plaster around the cups. That's as high tech as
the thing needs to get. You know, a kindergarten project.
R
David wrote:
> CW wrote:
> > Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what
> > is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine.
> > "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
> >>stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
> >>
> >>1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
> >>cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
> >>directly as a holder for the cups.
> >>
> >>2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of
> >
> > the
> >
> >>cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
> >>
> >>Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
> >>down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
> >>cups.
> >>
> >>I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block
> >
> > of
> >
> >>wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
> >>of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
> >>
> >>Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
> >>
> >> Norm
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
> suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
> RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
> that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
> another question about ANYTHING.
>
Even easier was taking some spare cups andnailing them
to a board.Then drop the workiing cups into them.
--
FF
Norm Dresner wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> | >
> | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
> | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
> | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
> | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
> | another question about ANYTHING.
> |
> | Dave
>
> Step 1. Drill one hole (1-7/8") with a Forstner bit
> Step 2. Take one paint cup and cut it down to ~1/2" high
> Step 3. Glue to the bottom of the hole. This completes the mold
>
> Making the holders: Mix 1/2 oz each of 2 chemicals and pour into mold. Wait
> 4 hours and remove completed holder.
>
> This ain't rocket science. It's simple, The holders are perfectly shaped
> every time and because they're rubber they grip the cups.
>
> Of course, there's still one thing I didn't accomplish: Learning how to
> drill a tapered hole! <LOL>
>
> But we'll leave that for the next time I guess.
You were told several ways to cut a tapered hole. Whether you learned
anything from this thread is another question.
R
"bent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I suggested (again) grinding the sides on the tapered the paddle bit. That
>may not do anything but squeek. If you were intent, (not that crazy) you
>may have to take a dremel tool, and grind a groove. Grind it on the face,
>parallel to the side you tapered, again on the side that first touches as
>the bit spins, so that the cutting chips curl around backward and break
>off. It has to give the leading edge of the chip encouragement to separate,
>or rip. It ain't rocket science. And the difference between failure and
>success can be very minor indeed.
I use a spade bit, which I presume is the same, modified to the standard
taper taper for making the holes in candlesticks. 7/8 taper 3/4. Quick
grind job and a deburr was all it took.
RE: Subject
Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter.
What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal
working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine.
Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install
tapered thru hulls in boats.
My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue.
Lew
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
(SNIP) I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> > would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
14 degree dovetail router bits are available from most router bit suppliers.
14 degrees is ~15 degrees ?
Earl Creel
Norm Dresner wrote:
<snip>
> I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Norm
>
There are 15 deg. tapered (chamfer) router bits readily available...
http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1011
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
|
| Even easier was taking some spare cups andnailing them
| to a board.Then drop the workiing cups into them.
|
|
I agree. But there are two reasons why I'm going my way:
1. I don't want all the cups nailed to one board. I want to be able to
reposition one or two without moving the rest.
2. Have you ever bought a new tool and then looked for a project to use
it on?
Norm
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| >
| The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
| suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
| RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
| that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
| another question about ANYTHING.
|
| Dave
Step 1. Drill one hole (1-7/8") with a Forstner bit
Step 2. Take one paint cup and cut it down to ~1/2" high
Step 3. Glue to the bottom of the hole. This completes the mold
Making the holders: Mix 1/2 oz each of 2 chemicals and pour into mold. Wait
4 hours and remove completed holder.
This ain't rocket science. It's simple, The holders are perfectly shaped
every time and because they're rubber they grip the cups.
Of course, there's still one thing I didn't accomplish: Learning how to
drill a tapered hole! <LOL>
But we'll leave that for the next time I guess.
Norm
I don't know your skill level or your tool availability. You can
accomplish what you want with a cheap paddle bit (Irwin speed bore
type bit). Grind or file the taper on the sides of the drill.
This works quite well for candle holders too.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my
> modeling work I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the
> kind they use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint,
> glue, paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly
> knocking over one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them
> that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF
> in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the
> cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue
> bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too
> narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a
> rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both
> of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a
> more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup
> and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router
> bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Norm
>
"Greg Neill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
| news:[email protected]...
| > It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling
work I
| > usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they
use
| > in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue,
paint
| > thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over
one
| > or more of these almost every day.
| >
| > The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
| > tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
| > there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups
would
| > work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle
that
| > was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow
for
| > the height.
| >
| > Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp.
I
| > could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of
these
| > seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
| > elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's
~15
| > degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits
that
| > would help much either.
| >
| > Suggestions welcome.
|
| Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop
| (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
That's the simplest solution of all.
Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good
suggestion.
Thanks
Norm
Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what
is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine.
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
> stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
>
> 1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
> cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
> directly as a holder for the cups.
>
> 2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of
the
> cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
>
> Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
> down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
> cups.
>
> I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block
of
> wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
> of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
>
> Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
>
> Norm
>
Norm Dresner wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> | CW wrote:
> | >
> | >
> | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
> | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
> | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
> | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
> | another question about ANYTHING.
> |
> | Dave
>
> I've tried straight holes. Unless the block is almost as high as the
> plastic cup, it's worthless. That's why I want a tapered hole.
>
> Norm
>
and yet you didn't respond on this thread when I suggested that you add
a second layer with smaller holes for the bottom of the cups to sit in.
that's going to solve your problem if you don't like having only a
straight hole at the top. 2 straight holes of different diameters,
spaced apart a bit will accomplish the same thing. I quit.
Dave
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| CW wrote:
| >
| >
| The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
| suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
| RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
| that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
| another question about ANYTHING.
|
| Dave
I've tried straight holes. Unless the block is almost as high as the
plastic cup, it's worthless. That's why I want a tapered hole.
Norm
Jay Pique wrote:
> Norm Dresner wrote:
>> | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop
>> | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
>>
>> That's the simplest solution of all.
>
> But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't
> found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for
> pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no
> dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them.
> Don't chair makers need bits like these?
>
>> Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good
>> suggestion.
>
> Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real
> McCoy.
>
> JP
>
Chairmakers bits http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/clifton_bits.htm
someone else used to carry them, but I can't find my link nor did I
see them at Lee Valley. If this bit isn't big enough then you'ld have
to get or make a reamer.
http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm
Joe
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop
(stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
Well, if it was me, I believe I'd just use a forstner to drill a
STRAIGHT sided hole that was large enough to keep the cup from
tipping. But if you must match the taper, try a web search on how to
make a wood reamer.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
CW wrote:
> Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what
> is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine.
> "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
>>stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
>>
>>1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
>>cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
>>directly as a holder for the cups.
>>
>>2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of
>
> the
>
>>cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
>>
>>Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
>>down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
>>cups.
>>
>>I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block
>
> of
>
>>wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
>>of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
>>
>>Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
>>
>> Norm
>>
>
>
>
The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the
suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about
RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told
that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks
another question about ANYTHING.
Dave
Norm Dresner wrote:
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Norm
>
How about a base made of 2 layers. the bottom layer would have an
appropriatly sized hole to fit the bottom portion of the cups.
dave
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 16:10:00 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
>stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
>
>1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
>cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
>directly as a holder for the cups.
>
>2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the
>cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
>
>Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
>down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
>cups.
>
>I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of
>wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
>of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
>
>Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
>
> Norm
If you really just have to overkill this and spend some money, go buy
some chairmaker's spoon bits. They make tapered holes. They also cost
about $60-$80 apiece .
cdo
"Bugs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
| Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it,
| checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half
| round rasp to do the job.
| Bugs
Alas, no. I have a radial arm saw, mini table saw, 9" band saw, bench drill
press, ... but no lathe.
Norm
After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting
stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a
cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber
directly as a holder for the cups.
2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the
cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them
down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new
cups.
I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of
wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort
of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
Norm
Norm Dresner (in
[email protected]) said:
| It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my
| modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine
| cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids
| -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench
| and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these
| almost every day.
|
| Suggestions welcome.
If the cups are tapered, I'd think you'd only need to drill a straight
hole that's a bit smaller than the top of the cup.
If you're determined to have tapered holes, KBC Tools
http://www.kbctools.com sells tapered milling cutters in just about
every taper angle you could want (I bought a 5-degree taper for
routing box lid lips). I'd clamp the workpiece to the drill press
table, drill a straight hole using the bottom (small) diameter, and
(without loosening the clamps!) "drill" again using the tapered mill
with the drill press running at its highest speed.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 15:25:36 GMT, "Norm Dresner" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I
>usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use
>in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint
>thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one
>or more of these almost every day.
>
>The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
>tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
>there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
>work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
>was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
>the height.
>
>Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
>could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
>seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
>elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15
>degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
>would help much either.
I know this is a little late, but who says the support has to
completely surround the cup? 3-4 short 3/4" square pieces with 15
degree cuts on the ends glued around the cup.
-Leuf
A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a Bridgeport.
You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough. Now,
can he pay for it.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> RE: Subject
>
> Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter.
>
> What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal
> working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine.
>
> Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install
> tapered thru hulls in boats.
>
> My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue.
>
> Lew
I'm not sure what angle it is, but I've seen a drill bit that was designed
to cut candle holes. It might do for what you want (sorry, but I don't know
where I saw it).
You might also be able to modify a spade bit to the shape that you want with
careful grinding of the edges to form the correct taper.
--
Charley
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work
I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they
use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue,
paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over
one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's
~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Norm
>
A strait hole will hold them just fine. Don't overcomplicate this.
"Norm Dresner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work
I
> usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they
use
> in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue,
paint
> thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over
one
> or more of these almost every day.
>
> The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's
> tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which
> there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would
> work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that
> was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for
> the height.
>
> Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I
> could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these
> seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more
> elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's
~15
> degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that
> would help much either.
>
> Suggestions welcome.
>
> Norm
>