I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
Right?
Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
handles
Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
point bits?
Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
Bill wrote:
> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>
My first thought is to use bradpoint of Forstner to start and then that
for guide for deeper w/ twist or augur.....
dpb wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> > drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> > with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> > O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
> >
> My first thought is to use bradpoint of Forstner to start and then that
> for guide for deeper w/ twist or augur.....
I think that would work also. If you'd prefer a brad point, googling
for 'extra long brad point drill" produced
http://www.brandsonsale.com/ht-001340.html
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/7-PC-EXTRA-LONG-WOOD-WORKING-BRAD-POINT-DRILL-BIT-SET_W0QQitemZ320041032270QQihZ011QQcategoryZ50383QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and my memory produced
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/drlbrad.html
Sounds like a nice rolling pin - can you post a picture when you're
done and you get your camera fixed?
Good luck,
Andy
Busy Bee tools sells them in sets starting with 1/8" all the way to
3/8" I think. They are about 18" long. Plenty long for what you need. I
have a set and can get you more information on them tomorrow if you
wish.
Mike
Bill wrote:
> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>
> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>
> Right?
>
> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>
> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
> handles
>
> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
> point bits?
>
> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>
> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
Bill wrote:
> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>
> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>
> Right?
>
> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>
> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
> handles
>
> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
> point bits?
>
> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>
> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
You can get them at MLCS, 12 inches long. Not sure how long the flutes
are, but if less than 6" just back out and clear the chips before
continuing. That is probably a good idea anyway.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/drlbrad.html
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
Adolescence is that period of time
between puberty and adultery.
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>
> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>
> Right?
>
> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>
> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
> handles
>
> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
> point bits?
>
> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>
> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
====>I've used D-bits for this. The are ideal for the job. I make my own
out of drill steel stock which you can buy in any diameter you need. A good
illustration of what you need to do is at:
http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/MakingBagpipes/Drill.htm
Leif
On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 16:59:43 -0700, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
>> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
>> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
>> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>>
>> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
>> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
>> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>>
>> Right?
>>
>> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
>> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
>> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
>> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>>
>> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
>> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
>> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
>> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
>> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
>> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
>> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
>> handles
>>
>> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
>> point bits?
>>
>> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
>> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
>> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
>> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
>> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
>> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
>> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
>> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>>
>> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
>> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
>> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
>
> ====>I've used D-bits for this. The are ideal for the job. I make my own
> out of drill steel stock which you can buy in any diameter you need. A good
> illustration of what you need to do is at:
> http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/MakingBagpipes/Drill.htm
>
> Leif
I am embarrassed to admit that I already knew about D bits (having used
them with a sensitive drill) but simply didn't think about them. DOH!
You guys are the best! I spent a good hour Googling for longer brad-point
bits and found none ... ZERO ... and almost every one of you were able to
scrounge some up.
I was 99.9% certain that they existed, but couldn't seem to scare one up.
Thanks gang ... I'll make a D bit out of the O-1 for this go-round while I
am waiting for brad points to arrive for the next go-round. There are a
couple of problems with D bits and I'm going to run into both of them with
this project ... horrible chip clearance (ie: none) and friction with the
sides of the hole. Still, for this job I can muddle through somehow and be
ready for the next project when it gets here.
Again, thanx!
Bill
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:34:56 -0800, Mike R. Courteau wrote:
> Busy Bee tools sells them in sets starting with 1/8" all the way to
> 3/8" I think. They are about 18" long. Plenty long for what you need. I
> have a set and can get you more information on them tomorrow if you
> wish.
>
> Mike
>
>
Yaeh ... might have some even deeper drilling in my near future ... say, a
lamp or two.
Bill
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 16:59:43 -0700, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
>>> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
>>> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
>>> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>>>
>>> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
>>> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
>>> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>>>
>>> Right?
>>>
>>> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
>>> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
>>> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue
>>> allowance
>>> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>>>
>>> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
>>> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no
>>> pic,
>>> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
>>> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that
>>> inserting
>>> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to
>>> place
>>> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
>>> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of
>>> the
>>> handles
>>>
>>> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
>>> point bits?
>>>
>>> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
>>> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
>>> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual
>>> misalignments
>>> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a
>>> wooden-jaw
>>> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
>>> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as
>>> long
>>> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the
>>> handles
>>> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>>>
>>> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
>>> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is
>>> itchy
>>> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
>>
>> ====>I've used D-bits for this. The are ideal for the job. I make my
>> own
>> out of drill steel stock which you can buy in any diameter you need. A
>> good
>> illustration of what you need to do is at:
>> http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/MakingBagpipes/Drill.htm
>>
>> Leif
>
> I am embarrassed to admit that I already knew about D bits (having used
> them with a sensitive drill) but simply didn't think about them. DOH!
>
> You guys are the best! I spent a good hour Googling for longer brad-point
> bits and found none ... ZERO ... and almost every one of you were able to
> scrounge some up.
>
> I was 99.9% certain that they existed, but couldn't seem to scare one up.
>
> Thanks gang ... I'll make a D bit out of the O-1 for this go-round while I
> am waiting for brad points to arrive for the next go-round. There are a
> couple of problems with D bits and I'm going to run into both of them with
> this project ... horrible chip clearance (ie: none) and friction with the
> sides of the hole. Still, for this job I can muddle through somehow and be
> ready for the next project when it gets here.
>
> Again, thanx!
>
> Bill
====>Hi, again! I have drilled holes with Dbits varying in diameter from
3/8's to 1" and what you say is right about the chip clearance and the heat
generated agains the sides. It requires constant pulling out of the bit and
it helps if you have a compressed air source to blow out the chips. I was
using water to help cool the wood, most of which evaporated from the heat
and didn't get absorbed into the wood. I would recommend that if you have a
fairly large hole to drill, that you do it in stages with gradually
increasing bit diameters. That helps cut down on the heat and speeds up the
drilling.Since you have had previous experience with Dbits, maybe I'm trying
to teach my grandfather how to suck eggs!!*G*
Leif
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:04:47 -0800, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
Since you have had previous experience with Dbits, maybe I'm trying
> to teach my grandfather how to suck eggs!!*G*
>
> Leif
The D-bits I have used in the past were smaller than all but a few of the
wire sizes. But cutting causes heat and heat closes a hole up and a D-bit
drill does not have the back taper that a regular drill has (measure a new
one ... it's there) for clearance. It's easy to see that the cut wood
fibers would rub against the shaft and get even hotter until either
siezing or burning stopped the cycle.
I don't have compressed air available and the final hole needs to be quite
deep, so I'm undecided as to whether to attempt the D-drill or to just
order the longer drill bits (with flutes for chip clearance) recommended
above.
Maybe the thing to do is to grind a D-drill and practice on a scrap of the
same wood before committing the finished rolling pin to the process.
SWMBO is happy with it now. I'm the one who has doubts as to its strength.
If she comes home and I have to tell her that she's back on the waiting
list, it could be a long time before I can come back indoors. And winter
is nearly here.
Bill
On Tue, 31 Oct 2006 10:39:52 -0500, J. Clarke wrote:
> Plastic rolling pins?!?!?!?!? All of them that I have seen that aren't wood
> are marble.
>
When I finished the ash rolling pin, my wife threw away her brand-new
plastic one. I've never seen her throw anything that still had a moment
of useful life remaining away before. But she didn't even flinch when she
pitched that pin. That tells me all I need to know about plastic rolling
pins.
I've since explained the anticipated strengthening surgery to her and
gotten her approval to do it.
I REALLY want to thank all who chimed in with responses ... especially
those who included URLs.
Bill wrote:
> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
Jamestown Distributors has that specific drill (8" O/A, 6" flute)
Lew
[email protected] wrote:
>
> Modern materials are great. I would venture that plastic rolling
> pins, and aluminum rather than cast iron skillets, have lessened
> the injuries of many a husband.
Ya but the taste of the food cooked in aluminum sucks.
You can pry my cast iron chicken fryer from my cold dead hand.
BTW, IMHO, my rolling pins are just one piece. At least that's what
the pros use.
Lew
Bill wrote:
> On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:04:47 -0800, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
> a D-bit
> drill does not have the back taper that a regular drill has (measure a new
> one ... it's there) for clearance. It's easy to see that the cut wood
> fibers would rub against the shaft and get even hotter until either
> siezing or burning stopped the cycle.
Couldn't the d-bit be tapered so only the first inch (say) is
full diameter?
Alternatively:
<http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8-mm-x-400mm-Auger-Wood-Drill-Bit-RECORD-MARPLES_W0QQitemZ290044502498QQihZ019QQcategoryZ64812QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem>
is this any good?
--
BigEgg
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
http://www.workshop-projects.com -
Plans and free books - *Now with forum*
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 28 Oct 2006 16:59:43 -0700, Leif Thorvaldson wrote:
>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
>>> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
>>> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
>>> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>>
>> ====>I've used D-bits for this. The are ideal for the job. I make my own
>> out of drill steel stock which you can buy in any diameter you need. A good
>> illustration of what you need to do is at:
>> http://www.bagpipeworld.co.uk/MakingBagpipes/Drill.htm
>>
>> Leif
>
> I am embarrassed to admit that I already knew about D bits (having used
> them with a sensitive drill) but simply didn't think about them. DOH!
>
> You guys are the best! I spent a good hour Googling for longer brad-point
> bits and found none ... ZERO ... and almost every one of you were able to
> scrounge some up.
>
> I was 99.9% certain that they existed, but couldn't seem to scare one up.
>
> Thanks gang ... I'll make a D bit out of the O-1 for this go-round while I
> am waiting for brad points to arrive for the next go-round. There are a
> couple of problems with D bits and I'm going to run into both of them with
> this project ... horrible chip clearance (ie: none) and friction with the
> sides of the hole. Still, for this job I can muddle through somehow and be
> ready for the next project when it gets here.
>
> Again, thanx!
>
> Bill
Perhaps worthwhile to explore:
http://www.protool.de/artikel/artikel_weiterleiten.cfm?id=465
Very well made tools.
--
Gerard
Don't know about that. I've never seen a 5/16 bit 6 feet long.
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
. However, I don't believe that 6 ' long bits
> are all that scarce.
> Jim
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Bill wrote:
>> I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
>> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
>> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
>> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>>
>My first thought is to use bradpoint of Forstner to start and then that
>for guide for deeper w/ twist or augur.....
>
Here's some:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90025
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33449
I bought a set of 12" long brad points from them some time ago but
looks like the web site isn't currently listing them. If you have a
local store maybe they have some on the shelf.
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am looking for a 5/16 drill bit, probably a brad point (it needs to
> drill, with very little wander, through end grain of tamarind and ash),
> with about 6" of flute (likely about 8" OAL) to let me insert a piece of
> O-1 rod through a handle and into a rolling pin for reinforcement.
>
> I turned a ~3/4" x 1" tenon on the handles and then grabbed a 3/4"
> Forstener bit to make a hole in the end of the rolling pin. Add a little
> dab of polyurethane glue and I should be golden.
>
> Right?
>
> Unfortunately, since leaving the machine trades, I've gotten careless in
> my thinking. I didn't check the drill size. It is plainly marked 13/16".
> So what was intended to have about .005" slop per side for glue allowance
> ended up with ~0.030" slop per side ... clearly a poor fit.
>
> So, I was able to line the handles up pretty well and get them glued in
> place. The rolling pin (ash body with tamarind handles ... sorry, no pic,
> my camera is kaputz)looks and feels really nice. As I was scraping the
> excess glue off this morning, though, the thought occurred that inserting
> the afore-mentioned metal pin would not only strengthen it so as to place
> it into the 'future heirloom' category, but add a bit of pizzazz to its
> appearance once the end of the rod was polished flush with the ends of the
> handles
>
> Thus this question: does anyone know where I can find extra length brad
> point bits?
>
> Without buying a new chuck AND a new drill, I cannot grip this
> in my lathe and use a lamp auger. Besides which, "feels okay" and "truly
> concentric" are not quite the same. I think that the actual misalignments
> are probably best compensated for on the drill press. I have a wooden-jaw
> v-block clamp that I can use to hang the rolling pin outboard by each
> handle in turn. It is okay for the pin to be eccentric to the body as long
> as it is (more or less) concentric to the handles and gripping the handles
> in a v-block will let me set them up colinear to the drill bit.
>
> If anyone has got better thinking on my proposed method of making these
> holes, now would be a good time to speak up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
> PS .. I considered turning a plug and re-drilling, however, SWMBO is itchy
> to do some baking today but needs a new tool first. Sound familiar? ;-)
Electrician's bits are 18 " long. I have one around here somewhere that is
1/4". However, whether you could do what you want with such a beast is
questionable to say the least. However, I don't believe that 6 ' long bits
are all that scarce.
Jim
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> <...snipped...>
>>SWMBO is happy with it now. I'm the one who has doubts as to its strength.
>>If she comes home and I have to tell her that she's back on the waiting
>>list, it could be a long time before I can come back indoors. And winter
>>is nearly here.
>>
>>Bill
>
> Modern materials are great. I would venture that plastic rolling
> pins, and aluminum rather than cast iron skillets, have lessened
> the injuries of many a husband.
Plastic rolling pins?!?!?!?!? All of them that I have seen that aren't wood
are marble.
(Flashing on Betty White doing in her boyfriend on an episode of Boston
Legal)
I'm not sure that modern stuff is all that much of an improvent--I have this
titanium wok that you really, _really_ don't want to get hit with. Better
handle and better balance than the cast iron frying pan, weighs about the
same, and probably a good deal harder.
> --
> For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
> solution that does not work.
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>SWMBO is happy with it now. I'm the one who has doubts as to its strength.
>If she comes home and I have to tell her that she's back on the waiting
>list, it could be a long time before I can come back indoors. And winter
>is nearly here.
>
>Bill
Modern materials are great. I would venture that plastic rolling
pins, and aluminum rather than cast iron skillets, have lessened
the injuries of many a husband.
--
For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
solution that does not work.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - [email protected]