On Mon, 23 Aug 2004 22:57:41 GMT, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>> Lesson learned: Look at the shelf life as well as your usage
>> when determining quantity to purchase. A higher initial price
>> can sometimes be the better option. <sigh>
>>
>
>You mean it doesn't always pay to be a cheap bastard! :)
Thash what I sled, diddle I?
>On the bright side, MixWax said it should be OK to transfer to my OJ
>container (HDPE), as long as I cleaned the contents out first.
Yeah, out of the minwax container.
--
-------------------------------------------------------
Never underestimate the innate animosity of inanimate objects.
----
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On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 22:52:40 GMT, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>Turns out a quart would have been more than enough too. I just didn't want
>to pay $20 a quart when a gallon was $40 CDN. I'll pick up some empties at
>HD.
I though the same thing back in the late 80's when I bought a
gallon of carpenter's glue. 2 years later, the plastic jug was
sucked in where the solvent/moisture had evaporated/migraged
out) and the remaining 3/4 of the jug was useless.
Lesson learned: Look at the shelf life as well as your usage
when determining quantity to purchase. A higher initial price
can sometimes be the better option. <sigh>
--
Impeach 'em ALL!
----------------------------------------------------
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"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 22 Aug 2004 22:52:40 GMT, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
> calmly ranted:
>
> >Turns out a quart would have been more than enough too. I just didn't
want
> >to pay $20 a quart when a gallon was $40 CDN. I'll pick up some empties
at
> >HD.
>
> I though the same thing back in the late 80's when I bought a
> gallon of carpenter's glue. 2 years later, the plastic jug was
> sucked in where the solvent/moisture had evaporated/migraged
> out) and the remaining 3/4 of the jug was useless.
>
> Lesson learned: Look at the shelf life as well as your usage
> when determining quantity to purchase. A higher initial price
> can sometimes be the better option. <sigh>
>
You mean it doesn't always pay to be a cheap bastard! :)
On the bright side, MixWax said it should be OK to transfer to my OJ
container (HDPE), as long as I cleaned the contents out first.
Bill,
An 'adjunct' to Leon's recommendation . . .
Typically, I buy my varnish a quart at a time, so that it stays 'fresh'. It
is not the 'long oil' Spar, but 'short oil' with UV inhibitors}. When it
occasionally goes on sale, I usually pick up a quart and add it to my
'stash'. It is the reaction with oxygen that causes problems, so I store the
cans upside-down.
One of the techniques to using varnish is to 'decant' the amount for the
project at hand into a 'working' container. Thus the 'supply' doesn't get
contaminated. With this being said, it is almost a given that, with various
times/amounts of 'skin over' being strained off & thrown away, about 1/4 of
the supply will wind up as 'mush' in the bottom of the supply container.
One way to prevent this is to IMMEDIATELY 'decant' the large supply into
smaller containers, and fill them almost to the top - so there is minimal
air space. When I get a GOOD DEAL on a gallon of very expensive anti-fouling
paint, I immediately go to my local paint store {or HD} and get 4 empty
quart cans. Even if I don't intend to use the paint for some time.
Everything is stored together. This has been very successful for a lot of
years.
Although I typically use up my varnish on a 'per job' basis, I have several
empty pint, half-pint, and smaller glass jars on the shelf. Just for laughs,
I put the remainder from a small job - about 2 to 3 ounces - in an 8 ounce
'relish jar'. I put a couple of pieces of plastic sheeting over the top,
puffed a bit of my de-oxygenated breath under it, and twisted on the lid. I
think that was 3 or 4 years ago - and it still is liquid, with no 'skin'. !!
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
{PS: sometimes I 'change cans' anyway - when the lip or lid gets banged &
torn from opening & closing. - 50 cents is cheap vs. the cost of throwing
away the better part of a $10.oo {or more}quart.}
"Leon" wrote ...
> The best bet may be to go to the local HD or Lowe's and buy a new gallon
> paint can.
SNIP
>
> "Bill Stock" wrote ...
> > I bought a gallon of Spar Urethane for a project, . . .
SNIP
"Ron Magen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill,
> An 'adjunct' to Leon's recommendation . . .
>
> Typically, I buy my varnish a quart at a time, so that it stays 'fresh'.
It
> is not the 'long oil' Spar, but 'short oil' with UV inhibitors}. When it
> occasionally goes on sale, I usually pick up a quart and add it to my
> 'stash'. It is the reaction with oxygen that causes problems, so I store
the
> cans upside-down.
>
> One of the techniques to using varnish is to 'decant' the amount for the
> project at hand into a 'working' container. Thus the 'supply' doesn't get
> contaminated. With this being said, it is almost a given that, with
various
> times/amounts of 'skin over' being strained off & thrown away, about 1/4
of
> the supply will wind up as 'mush' in the bottom of the supply container.
>
> One way to prevent this is to IMMEDIATELY 'decant' the large supply into
> smaller containers, and fill them almost to the top - so there is minimal
> air space. When I get a GOOD DEAL on a gallon of very expensive
anti-fouling
> paint, I immediately go to my local paint store {or HD} and get 4 empty
> quart cans. Even if I don't intend to use the paint for some time.
> Everything is stored together. This has been very successful for a lot of
> years.
>
> Although I typically use up my varnish on a 'per job' basis, I have
several
> empty pint, half-pint, and smaller glass jars on the shelf. Just for
laughs,
> I put the remainder from a small job - about 2 to 3 ounces - in an 8 ounce
> 'relish jar'. I put a couple of pieces of plastic sheeting over the top,
> puffed a bit of my de-oxygenated breath under it, and twisted on the lid.
I
> think that was 3 or 4 years ago - and it still is liquid, with no 'skin'.
!!
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
> {PS: sometimes I 'change cans' anyway - when the lip or lid gets banged &
> torn from opening & closing. - 50 cents is cheap vs. the cost of throwing
> away the better part of a $10.oo {or more}quart.}
Thanks for the detailed reply Ron. I've done the paint in a jug/bottle with
Saran wrap trick. But I wasn't too sure about the Spar, with the wicked
stink that stuff has. Gave myself a slight buzz before I went for the mask.
Turns out a quart would have been more than enough too. I just didn't want
to pay $20 a quart when a gallon was $40 CDN. I'll pick up some empties at
HD.
On Sat, 21 Aug 2004 15:47:47 GMT, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I bought a gallon of Spar Urethane for a project, but it's got a small ding
>in the lip. I'm concerned that it will not seal properly by the time I
>finish banging the lid back a few times.
>
>Can I safely store the remained in plastic, an opaque Minute Maid Orange
>Jucie container?
>
>
>
>
I suggest you contact the manufacturer, they all have support people
that get these kinds of questions frequently. They probably even have
email so can save the cost of a long-distance call.
HTH
Mike Patterson
Please remove the spamtrap to email me.
"I always wanted to be somebody...I should have been more specific..." - Lily Tomlin
The best bet may be to go to the local HD or Lowe's and buy a new gallon
paint can. IIRC they are about 99 cents.
That said, many varnishes come in plastic cans with metal lids.
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I bought a gallon of Spar Urethane for a project, but it's got a small
ding
> in the lip. I'm concerned that it will not seal properly by the time I
> finish banging the lid back a few times.
>
> Can I safely store the remained in plastic, an opaque Minute Maid Orange
> Jucie container?
>
>
>
>
>