I did a search in rec.woodworking for "warping" and a million results
came up. I read a couple of dozen and didn't find what I was looking
for so I'll post yet another question on "warping" and my apologoes if
it's been covered before....
I have no kiln. I have no joiner. I have no planer. All things I'd
love to have but there's a little bank account issue.
So I have my wood supllier join and plane my wood at the time of
purchase. The trouble is that my projects take so long (because I'm
slow), that the wood tends to warp while the project is in progress.
So I was wondering if finishing the wood BEFORE assembly would be a
good idea -- to keep moisture out?
Sun, Nov 16, 2003, 9:21am (EST-3) [email protected]
(Never=A0Enough=A0Money) says:
<snip> my projects take so long (because I'm slow), that the wood tends
to warp while the project is in progress. <snp>
How, and where are you storing your wood? What are the dimensions
of the wood? And, what types of projects?
JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 15 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Actually, I might be an idiot, well inexperienced. I just started wood
wooking and I've really only built two things. I built a built-in
bench with eight drawers in my garage and a stand-alone bench with
four cabinets, five drawers and two vises. Now I'm ready for my first
piece "for the house." I want to build en entertainment center. Don't
know what kind of wood yet -- probably maple or oak carcass with birch
veneered plywood for the cabinet panels and drawer faces.
I currently store my wood in my garage. BTW, I live in Colorado where
it's general very dry.
Oh yea, you asked dimensions. For my entertainment center, I think the
main vertical members will be about 5 feet. The horizontal members
front to back about 2. the horizontal member side to side about 5
feet. The cabinet door framing about 3 feet by 2.5 feet.
[email protected] (T.) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Sun, Nov 16, 2003, 9:21am (EST-3) [email protected]
> (Never Enough Money) says:
> <snip> my projects take so long (because I'm slow), that the wood tends
> to warp while the project is in progress. <snp>
>
> How, and where are you storing your wood? What are the dimensions
> of the wood? And, what types of projects?
>
> JOAT
> Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
> missing.
>
> Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> Web Page Update 15 Nov 2003.
> Some tunes I like.
> http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
Preston that sounds impressive. However, I don't have all the
equipment you do and right now I just care about the best thing I can
do with what I've got. So my question was, if I finish my wood first,
will that solve most of the warping problem?"
I don't have a joiner or planer. When the wood gets to my home I can
basically use a table saw, router, drill, and sander. That's all.
"Preston Andreas" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> You are asking for an impossible answer. Wood will always move when
> subjected to changing conditions. Moving from a kiln to your shop is a
> changing condition. Moving from your supplier to your shop is a changing
> condition. Moving from your shop to the final location is a changing
> condition. I buy from a local supplier that has a good reputation. The
> lumber is usually 8 - 10% moisture content. I take it to my shop and if
> possible (some deadlines don't permit), I sticker it and let it sit for a
> few days to a week. I then rough mill it to within an 1/8" of the final
> dimension. Again, I sticker it and let it sit for a few days. When it
> comes time to put the project together, I mill to final thickness and
> assemble within the least amount of time. This gives you the best chance
> for a straight square assembly. Also, if a piece of stock wants to move, it
> has to move after assembly and fight against the rest of the project. Once
> it is assembled each piece of the whole project has a hard time moving
> because the other pieces tend to hold it in line. If after assembly, it
> behaves for a day or two in the shop, it probably will behave for the
> customer.
>
> I do this for a living, and I charge a price that allows me to let the stock
> sit and acclimate. It makes for an easier project to complete and it helps
> eliminate problems after delivery.
>
> Preston
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I did a search in rec.woodworking for "warping" and a million results
> > came up. I read a couple of dozen and didn't find what I was looking
> > for so I'll post yet another question on "warping" and my apologoes if
> > it's been covered before....
> >
> >
> > I have no kiln. I have no joiner. I have no planer. All things I'd
> > love to have but there's a little bank account issue.
> >
> > So I have my wood supllier join and plane my wood at the time of
> > purchase. The trouble is that my projects take so long (because I'm
> > slow), that the wood tends to warp while the project is in progress.
> >
> > So I was wondering if finishing the wood BEFORE assembly would be a
> > good idea -- to keep moisture out?
This is exactly what is needed for straight, square assemblies. When you buy
your stock rough take it home and cut it to rough length and width and
properly stack it. Then take a few pieces at a time to be milled to final
size and bring them to your shop and assemble them ASAP.
--
Bill Rittner
R & B ENTERPRISES
[email protected]
"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody
gets out alive" (Unknown)
Remove "no" to reply
"Preston Andreas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You are asking for an impossible answer. Wood will always move when
> subjected to changing conditions. Moving from a kiln to your shop is a
> changing condition. Moving from your supplier to your shop is a changing
> condition. Moving from your shop to the final location is a changing
> condition. I buy from a local supplier that has a good reputation. The
> lumber is usually 8 - 10% moisture content. I take it to my shop and if
> possible (some deadlines don't permit), I sticker it and let it sit for a
> few days to a week. I then rough mill it to within an 1/8" of the final
> dimension. Again, I sticker it and let it sit for a few days. When it
> comes time to put the project together, I mill to final thickness and
> assemble within the least amount of time. This gives you the best chance
> for a straight square assembly. Also, if a piece of stock wants to move,
it
> has to move after assembly and fight against the rest of the project.
Once
> it is assembled each piece of the whole project has a hard time moving
> because the other pieces tend to hold it in line. If after assembly, it
> behaves for a day or two in the shop, it probably will behave for the
> customer.
>
> I do this for a living, and I charge a price that allows me to let the
stock
> sit and acclimate. It makes for an easier project to complete and it
helps
> eliminate problems after delivery.
>
> Preston
> "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I did a search in rec.woodworking for "warping" and a million results
> > came up. I read a couple of dozen and didn't find what I was looking
> > for so I'll post yet another question on "warping" and my apologoes if
> > it's been covered before....
> >
> >
> > I have no kiln. I have no joiner. I have no planer. All things I'd
> > love to have but there's a little bank account issue.
> >
> > So I have my wood supllier join and plane my wood at the time of
> > purchase. The trouble is that my projects take so long (because I'm
> > slow), that the wood tends to warp while the project is in progress.
> >
> > So I was wondering if finishing the wood BEFORE assembly would be a
> > good idea -- to keep moisture out?
>
>
You are asking for an impossible answer. Wood will always move when
subjected to changing conditions. Moving from a kiln to your shop is a
changing condition. Moving from your supplier to your shop is a changing
condition. Moving from your shop to the final location is a changing
condition. I buy from a local supplier that has a good reputation. The
lumber is usually 8 - 10% moisture content. I take it to my shop and if
possible (some deadlines don't permit), I sticker it and let it sit for a
few days to a week. I then rough mill it to within an 1/8" of the final
dimension. Again, I sticker it and let it sit for a few days. When it
comes time to put the project together, I mill to final thickness and
assemble within the least amount of time. This gives you the best chance
for a straight square assembly. Also, if a piece of stock wants to move, it
has to move after assembly and fight against the rest of the project. Once
it is assembled each piece of the whole project has a hard time moving
because the other pieces tend to hold it in line. If after assembly, it
behaves for a day or two in the shop, it probably will behave for the
customer.
I do this for a living, and I charge a price that allows me to let the stock
sit and acclimate. It makes for an easier project to complete and it helps
eliminate problems after delivery.
Preston
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I did a search in rec.woodworking for "warping" and a million results
> came up. I read a couple of dozen and didn't find what I was looking
> for so I'll post yet another question on "warping" and my apologoes if
> it's been covered before....
>
>
> I have no kiln. I have no joiner. I have no planer. All things I'd
> love to have but there's a little bank account issue.
>
> So I have my wood supllier join and plane my wood at the time of
> purchase. The trouble is that my projects take so long (because I'm
> slow), that the wood tends to warp while the project is in progress.
>
> So I was wondering if finishing the wood BEFORE assembly would be a
> good idea -- to keep moisture out?
If you are leaving large amounts of time between working sessions stack all
you wood together evenly and put some weights on it or clamp it all together
.
Good Luck,
George
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Actually, I might be an idiot, well inexperienced. I just started wood
> wooking and I've really only built two things. I built a built-in
> bench with eight drawers in my garage and a stand-alone bench with
> four cabinets, five drawers and two vises. Now I'm ready for my first
> piece "for the house." I want to build en entertainment center. Don't
> know what kind of wood yet -- probably maple or oak carcass with birch
> veneered plywood for the cabinet panels and drawer faces.
>
>
> I currently store my wood in my garage. BTW, I live in Colorado where
> it's general very dry.
>
> Oh yea, you asked dimensions. For my entertainment center, I think the
> main vertical members will be about 5 feet. The horizontal members
> front to back about 2. the horizontal member side to side about 5
> feet. The cabinet door framing about 3 feet by 2.5 feet.
>
>
> [email protected] (T.) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Sun, Nov 16, 2003, 9:21am (EST-3) [email protected]
> > (Never Enough Money) says:
> > <snip> my projects take so long (because I'm slow), that the wood tends
> > to warp while the project is in progress. <snp>
> >
> > How, and where are you storing your wood? What are the dimensions
> > of the wood? And, what types of projects?
> >
> > JOAT
> > Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
> > missing.
> >
> > Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
> > Web Page Update 15 Nov 2003.
> > Some tunes I like.
> > http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/