This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
to get tight drawers.
Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
IMHO, that is a waste of money.
Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
spread over many more jobs.
Lew
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>> to get tight drawers.
>>
>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>
>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>
>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>
>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>> spread over many more jobs.
>>
>> Lew
>
> Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
> workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
> definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
> (and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
>
> Bill
I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 + this
way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms. I once
proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years ago, when I stood
on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x 32". This was one of
three pots and pans drawers.
On 9/11/2015 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>> to get tight drawers.
>>
>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>
>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>
>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>
>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>> spread over many more jobs.
>>
>> Lew
>
> Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
> standard blade.
>
Has anyone ever just used a stack of standard blades as a dado blade?
Bill wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers
>> to the
>> workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados
>> will
>> definitely add desirable strength.
>
> > What would you use for the bottoms
> > (and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
-------------------------------------------------------
"Swingman" wrote:
> I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
> drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
> serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes
> today.
>
> I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2"
> drawer side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different
> widths,all 5' long).
>
> The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom,
> and the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.
>
> I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.
---------------------------------------------------------
As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change in
scope", "write up a change order.
My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.
Being able to use dedicated, prefabricated and prefinished material
totally changes the situation.
As far as the U-Tube demo is concerned, my personal choice is to
avoid a miter gage wherever possible and use a sled and some cleats
for smaller pieces.
IMHO, it is safer and you are less likely to waste material.
Of course I'm not on the clock which makes a difference.
Lew
Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> > As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change
> > in
> > scope", "write up a change order.
>
>> My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
>> 60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.
>
> LOL ... Mea Culpa.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Swingman" wrote:
>
> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". :)
------------------------------------------------------------
If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
feature,
but unnecessary bit.
Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a totally
new ball game, application wise..
Lew
-----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman" wrote:> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". :)------------------------------------------------------------Lew Hodgett wrote:> If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice> feature,> but unnecessary bit.------------------------------------------------------------> Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.------------------------------------------------------------>> Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into atotally>> new ball game, application wise..-------------------------------------------------------------------> How?---------------------------------------------------------------You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.---------------------------------------------------------------------> Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using adedicated router bit.>> The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.------------------------------------------------------------But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew
"Swingman" wrote:
> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
------------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
> feature,
> but unnecessary bit.
------------------------------------------------------------
> Why?
-------------------------------------------------------------
Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,
and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.
------------------------------------------------------------
>> Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a
>> totally
>> new ball game, application wise.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> How?
---------------------------------------------------------------
You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,
but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using a
dedicated router bit.
>> The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as to
>> width,
or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.
------------------------------------------------------------
But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep time
and the methods used to do the job.
I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.
Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but for
drawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.
Lew
>
On 9/11/2015 4:33 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
> On 9/11/2015 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>>> to get tight drawers.
>>>
>>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>>
>>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>>
>>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>>
>>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>>> spread over many more jobs.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>
>> Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
>> standard blade.
> >
> Has anyone ever just used a stack of standard blades as a dado blade?
Certainly someone has but dado blades are unique. There is certainly a
left and a right side and the chippers cut a flat bottom, at least this
true with quality sets.
Just another reason to use a better solution rather than what you can
get by with.
On 9/11/2015 11:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change in
> scope", "write up a change order.
> My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
> 60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.
LOL ... Mea Culpa.
I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type, and,
as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the necessity of
the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip video specifically
entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". :)
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 9/10/2015 10:33 PM, Bill wrote:
>
> Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
> workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
> definitely add desirable strength.
> What would you use for the bottoms
> (and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes today.
I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2" drawer
side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different widths,all
5' long).
The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom, and
the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.
I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.
Here's a video I posted on how I do a locking rabbet joint on the table saw:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7iQFW4hq8
You can make a ton of nice, serviceable drawers, with no finishing
required, quickly and at a cost effective price that can can actually be
a profit center on a job.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGarageCabinetStorageDrawers?noredirect=1#5951319365912134706
If you need to make them wider, simply use leftover scraps from the 1/2"
pre-finished drawer side material to reinforce the bottoms, as you see here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShop327KitchenRefresh2013?noredirect=1#5942064779998629746
... glued to the drawer bottom, and finish nailed to the side, the
nail holes to be covered by the drawer slides
Bet I've made enough to pay for a half a dozen table saws, and dozens of
dado stacks, just from these drawers alone. ;)
AAMOF, I can make them so quickly and cost effectively that I'll often
throw some in as lagniappe on a cabinet remodel, simply to replace the
old, flimsy, existing drawers that do NOT complement the hard work we've
already accomplished.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 +
> this way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms.
> I once proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years
> ago, when I stood on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x
> 32". This was one of three pots and pans drawers.
Shearing 1/4 ply would take an immense weight (even shearing
psuedo-woods like masonite or hardboard would take a lot). So
your two risks are the bottom flexing enough to come out of
the groove, or the bottom of the groove failing. The first is
unlikely if the groove is reasonably tight, even for traditional
style drawers without a groove at the back. The second is
unlikely unless you cut the groove too close to the bottom of
the side.
John
On Friday, September 11, 2015 at 10:48:10 AM UTC-4, krw wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 23:33:23 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Lew Hodgett wrote:
> >> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
> >> to get tight drawers.
> >>
> >> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
> >>
> >> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
> >>
> >> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
> >> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
> >>
> >> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
> >> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
> >> spread over many more jobs.
> >>
> >> Lew
> >
> >Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
> >workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
> >definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
> >(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
> >
> The bottoms depend on how big the drawer is and what you're putting in
> there. For anything less than 18", or so, and normal stuff, 1/4" ply
> is probably enough. If you're putting boxes of hammer heads in a 36"
> drawer, it should probably be thicker. ;-)
How many hammer heads can you fit in a 36" drawer?
http://www.divetime.com/images/photos/assets/0/50470-work-Hammerheads.jpg
On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 23:33:23 -0400, Bill <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>> to get tight drawers.
>>
>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>
>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>
>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>
>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>> spread over many more jobs.
>>
>> Lew
>
>Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
>workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
>definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
>(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
>
The bottoms depend on how big the drawer is and what you're putting in
there. For anything less than 18", or so, and normal stuff, 1/4" ply
is probably enough. If you're putting boxes of hammer heads in a 36"
drawer, it should probably be thicker. ;-) I like 3/4" ply for
sides, if I'm using dados for the joints (the reasons I bought a
dovetail jig - thinner sides).
On 9/12/2015 6:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>
>>> As my consulting engineering friends are fond of saying, "Change
>>> in
>>> scope", "write up a change order.
>>
>>> My comment was based strictly on starting with a sheet of
>>> 60" x 60" x 1/2" (9 ply), and a cut list.
>>
>> LOL ... Mea Culpa.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> "Swingman" wrote:
>>
>> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,
>> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the
>> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip
>> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". :)
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice
> feature,
> but unnecessary bit.
Why?
> Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into a totally
> new ball game, application wise..
How?
Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using a
dedicated router bit.
The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as to width, or
not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.
Regardless of the stock used in my post, you still must provide the
drawer JOINERY of your choice.
Again, your original post was SOLELY about a bit that is dedicated to
providing "Rock Solid Drawer "JOINTS", _irrespective of material_ .
---
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 9/13/2015 8:14 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,
Yeah Buddy! How about them apples, eh?
> _but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit _ .
LOL The drawers in the photos, with joinery done on the table saw, blows
that contention completely out of the water.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 9/13/2015 7:43 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman" wrote:> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any type,> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with the> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints". :)------------------------------------------------------------Lew Hodgett wrote:> If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit becomes a nice> feature,> but unnecessary bit.------------------------------------------------------------> Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a natural.------------------------------------------------------------>> Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into atotally>> new ball game, application wise..----------------------------------------------
---------------------> How?---------------------------------------------------------------You seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but what is left lends itself to the drawer joint bit.---------------------------------------------------------------------> Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using adedicated router bit.>> The material used - finished, unfinished, purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery method.------------------------------------------------------------But it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew
>
Jeeezus, Lew ... that mess is as confused as your argument. :)
--
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https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
> to get tight drawers.
>
> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>
> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>
> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>
> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
> spread over many more jobs.
>
> Lew
Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
definitely add desirable strength. What would you use for the bottoms
(and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
Bill
Leon wrote:
> On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>> to get tight drawers.
>>
>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>
>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>
>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>
>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>> spread over many more jobs.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>
> Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
> standard blade.
I think Lew's point was that if you have a dado blade you don't need to
spend any more money. Lots of the woodworker media focused on getting
woodworkers to buy more stuff, period. They don't really care whether
you ever use it or not. Some folks see the infomercial and say, "I need
that to be a good woodworker". Lew is just pointing out, I think, that
it ain't so. If it ever gets out that the most important part of
woodworking occurs in the mind, some retailers might be
sunk! ; ) Of course, there are those who would argue that the most
important part of woodworking doesn't occur in the mind, and surely they
are correct too. Roy Underhill explained it all once when I train was
going by so I didn't catch the whole thing...
On 9/11/2015 12:35 PM, Leon wrote:
>
> And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
> Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
> to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
> with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
> The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
> The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
> using a dado set.
>
My thought is $40 is cheap and as you say, it speeds up and/or
simplifies the process, at least for amateurs such as myself.
Swingman wrote:
> On 9/10/2015 10:33 PM, Bill wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the tip Lew! I was thinking about adding some drawers to the
>> workbench I made (from Swingman's design) a few years ago. Dados will
>> definitely add desirable strength.
>
> > What would you use for the bottoms
> > (and front, back, and sides), 1/2" ply?
>
> I find it necessary to build a lot of mid level drawers for clients,
> drawers that don't have to be fancy or dovetail, but that are
> serviceable, strong and will outlast most drawers you see in homes today.
>
> I routinely use the locking rabbet joint, and pre-finished 1/2" drawer
> side material (available at a local supplier at 6 different widths,all
> 5' long).
>
> The drawer side material is already grooved for the plywood bottom,
> and the top is rounded over for a nicely finished look.
>
> I use the same UV pre-finished 1/4" plywood for the bottoms.
>
> Here's a video I posted on how I do a locking rabbet joint on the
> table saw:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w7iQFW4hq8
>
> You can make a ton of nice, serviceable drawers, with no finishing
> required, quickly and at a cost effective price that can can actually
> be a profit center on a job.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGarageCabinetStorageDrawers?noredirect=1#5951319365912134706
>
>
> If you need to make them wider, simply use leftover scraps from the
> 1/2" pre-finished drawer side material to reinforce the bottoms, as
> you see here:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShop327KitchenRefresh2013?noredirect=1#5942064779998629746
>
>
> ... glued to the drawer bottom, and finish nailed to the side, the
> nail holes to be covered by the drawer slides
>
> Bet I've made enough to pay for a half a dozen table saws, and dozens
> of dado stacks, just from these drawers alone. ;)
>
> AAMOF, I can make them so quickly and cost effectively that I'll often
> throw some in as lagniappe on a cabinet remodel, simply to replace the
> old, flimsy, existing drawers that do NOT complement the hard work
> we've already accomplished.
>
Nice looking drawers, and I couldn't ask for clearer instructions! Thank
you for sharing!
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------"Swingman"
> wrote:> I would have sworn your post never mentioned material of any
> type,> and, as the subject indicates, was about not agreeing with
> the> necessity of the use of dedicated router bit in a WoodSmith tip>
> video specifically entitled "Rock Solid Drawer Joints".
> :)------------------------------------------------------------Lew
> Hodgett wrote:> If you don't include pre-machined stock, the bit
> becomes a nice> feature,> but unnecessary
> bit.------------------------------------------------------------>
> Why?-------------------------------------------------------------Using
> the precut pieces you describe eliminates a lot of T/S work,and makes
> the remaining stock prep using the drawer bit a
> natural.------------------------------------------------------------>>
> Your approach of using pre-machined stock turns the bit into
> atotally>> new ball game, application
> wise..------------------------------------------------------------------->
> How?---------------------------------------------------------------You
> seriously reduced the total amount of stock prep for a drawer,but
> what is left lends itself to the drawer joint
> bit.--------------------------------------------------------------------->
> Your original post is about a 'drawer side' joinery method, using
> adedicated router bit.>> The material used - finished, unfinished,
> purpose milled as towidth, or not - is irrelevant to that joinery
> method.------------------------------------------------------------But
> it does have a major impact on the total amount of stock prep timeand
> the methods used to do the job.I just like a T/S and appropriate sled
> where possible.Don't get me wrong, I use a router for a lot of
> things, but fordrawers,given a choice, I'll take a T/S.Lew
Geezus Lew - you think you could post this again in a more logical, and
readable manner?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 9/11/2015 9:29 AM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>>> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
>>> to get tight drawers.
>>>
>>> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>>>
>>> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>>>
>>> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
>>> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>>>
>>> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
>>> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
>>> spread over many more jobs.
>>>
>>> Lew
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
>> standard blade.
>
> I think Lew's point was that if you have a dado blade you don't need to
> spend any more money.
Same goes with a regular blade. Both a dado blade and the suggested bit
for making the drawer joints are unnecessary. Both are more expensive
options for doing the same thing that can be done with regular blade.
Lots of the woodworker media focused on getting
> woodworkers to buy more stuff, period. They don't really care whether
> you ever use it or not.
And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
using a dado set.
Some folks see the infomercial and say, "I need
> that to be a good woodworker". Lew is just pointing out, I think, that
> it ain't so.
Agreed. But a good comparison is using a bench top mortiser, $250, or a
Festool Domino, $900. The mortiser will do the job but the Domino does
the job maybe 20 times faster. I have cut in excess of 10,000 mortises
with my Domino, I very seriously doubt that many have done the same with
the mortiser that they may own.
If it ever gets out that the most important part of
> woodworking occurs in the mind, some retailers might be
> sunk! ; ) Of course, there are those who would argue that the most
> important part of woodworking doesn't occur in the mind, and surely they
> are correct too. Roy Underhill explained it all once when I train was
> going by so I didn't catch the whole thing...
>
>
On Fri, 11 Sep 2015 18:57:49 -0400, Meanie <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/11/2015 12:35 PM, Leon wrote:
>
>>
>> And do you think that this is exclusive to the woodworking industry? ;~)
>> Simply put, there are better mouse traps and you choose whether you want
>> to spend extra money and use it or not. I used to cut a lot of dado's
>> with a regular saw blade or with my dado jig and router.
>> The dado blade simply speeds up production for cutting dado's or groves.
>> The bit that Lew is talking about speeds up making locking miters over
>> using a dado set.
>>
>
>My thought is $40 is cheap and as you say, it speeds up and/or
>simplifies the process, at least for amateurs such as myself.
If simplifies the process such that I don't make as many mistakes,
it's worth a *lot* more than $40. Fast is also good. I have a far
more discretionary dollars than discretionary hours.
On 9/12/2015 10:26 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Leon <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I'll put my 2 cents in. For quick and sturdy, I have built 100 +
>> this way, 1/2 Baltic birch for the sides and 1/4 ply for the bottoms.
>> I once proved to my wife that 1/4" bottoms were plenty, 25 years
>> ago, when I stood on an upside down drawer that wad approximately 22"x
>> 32". This was one of three pots and pans drawers.
>
> Shearing 1/4 ply would take an immense weight (even shearing
> psuedo-woods like masonite or hardboard would take a lot). So
> your two risks are the bottom flexing enough to come out of
> the groove, or the bottom of the groove failing. The first is
> unlikely if the groove is reasonably tight, even for traditional
> style drawers without a groove at the back. The second is
> unlikely unless you cut the groove too close to the bottom of
> the side.
>
> John
>
I will say that I do build my drawers a bit differently also. The
grooves for the bottoms are cut for exact fit and I do not slide the
bottom in from the back under the back side. The bottom is totally
captured and inset into groves by both sides, from and back. It is
captured during glue up.
On 9/10/2015 7:18 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> This weeks tip from WoodSmith suggests using a drawer lock router bit
> to get tight drawers.
>
> Rockler offers a bit for about $40.00.
>
> IMHO, that is a waste of money.
>
> Much easier to use a dado set and T/S to set up a $200, 8" dado
> set 1/4" dado using just the outside blades.
>
> A carbide dado set will do a lot of other jobs as well as locking
> drawer fronts which allows for the recovery of it's $200 investment
> spread over many more jobs.
>
> Lew
>
>
Well then I guess the same could be said about the dado blade vs. a
standard blade.