http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005Q7B2/qid=1146679847/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/103-7630343-9002247?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
I have the above tool except in the 2-speed version. It has enough power but
the general purpose spiral bit that came with it is useless on even soft,
thin 1/4" wood. It smoked up even on first use on either speed. I see one
other person reported this problem on this cutting bit. So what bit should I
use for cutting wood up to 1" thick?
Jack,
Usually smoking means excess friction which means more rubbing than
cutting. There are a number of bits for the cutout tools. Do you have
the right one. Also, smoking comes from too slow of cutting - again
more friction. It has to do with the speed of the tool and desirgn of
the bit.
I have at least 3 different kinds of bits for my rotozip and have not
had that much trouble with smoking.
MBR
Jack (in [email protected]) said:
| I have the above tool except in the 2-speed version. It has enough
| power but the general purpose spiral bit that came with it is
| useless on even soft, thin 1/4" wood. It smoked up even on first
| use on either speed. I see one other person reported this problem
| on this cutting bit. So what bit should I use for cutting wood up
| to 1" thick?
I had a similar experience with a HF cut-out tool (except that the bit
didn't survive the first attempt to cut 1/4" plywood.)
I replaced the bit with a 1/8" 3-flute solid carbide end mill and have
been happy (and still using the same tool and end-mill) ever since.
I'm pretty sure that you're going to need a somewhat more robust tool
if you're planning on cutting more than 1/4" or so deep. It's probably
time to start looking at routers.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Tools of that type (Rotozip and clones) were designed for cutting drywall.
At that, they do reasonably well. Expecting a 1/8" bit of that type to cut
wood much thicker than 1/8 to maybe 1/4 inch is asking a little much. It
will but not well. Might want to try some of the Rotozip bits. Maybe they
are more aggressive. Curved cuts in wood are best done with a jigsaw.
"Jack" <n> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005Q7B2/qid=1146679847/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/103-7630343-9002247?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
>
> I have the above tool except in the 2-speed version. It has enough power
but
> the general purpose spiral bit that came with it is useless on even soft,
> thin 1/4" wood. It smoked up even on first use on either speed. I see one
> other person reported this problem on this cutting bit. So what bit should
I
> use for cutting wood up to 1" thick?
>
>
"Jack" <n> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005Q7B2/qid=1146679847/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/103-7630343-9002247?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
>
> I have the above tool except in the 2-speed version. It has enough power
> but the general purpose spiral bit that came with it is useless on even
> soft, thin 1/4" wood. It smoked up even on first use on either speed. I
> see one other person reported this problem on this cutting bit. So what
> bit should I use for cutting wood up to 1" thick?
>
At least a 1/4" bit, and yes that will probably require a router. Your tool
was originally designed and does a good job on cutting sheet rock.