All,
My Bosch 1617 router has died a second time with the same problem -
absolutely nothing happens when you turn on the switch. The first time was
under warranty, but it's about a year out of warranty now. Is it possible
to fix this myself? Or does it require Bosch-specific (i.e. expensive)
parts to fix?
If it's too much of a hassle, I may pitch it. It was in the shop one other
time under warranty, and I've no lost love for it :(.
It's a shame, too - I'm very satisfied with all of my other Bosch purchases.
Of course, this one says "Made in USA", not Germany like, say, my 24V Bosch
drill, which has fallen off the roof twice with no ill effects.
Thanks in advance.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
Michael White wrote:
> All,
>
> My Bosch 1617 router has died a second time with the same problem -
> absolutely nothing happens when you turn on the switch.
This happened to mine twice. First time was the switch, replaced under
warrenty.
Second time was the switch and the variable speed controller. Replaced
under credit card warrenty.
If it goes again, I'm writing to Bosch to express my dissatisfaction.
Chris
Why don't you try to figure out how the sawdust is getting in and seal the
leak or tape it closed. I had this trouble with a Delta Router/shaper switch
and discovered that the gasket between the front and back half of the case
wasn't sealing tight. After dis-assembly and cleaning I re-assembled it and
then wrapped some electrical tape around the outside of the case to cover
the seam. That was several years ago and it hasn't failed since. I had only
used the tool a few months before it failed the first time.
--
Charley
"PCProffitt" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've removed and cleaned out the switch in my 1617 three or four times
> now. It gets choked with fine saw dust so the internals won't move. It
> takes about 15 minutes to fix the problem and be back in business. This
> is of course assuming that the switch hasn't actually broken.
>
> All you need is a philips screwdriver to remove the top, a medium size
> pair of needle nose pliers maybe to remove the spade connections on the
> back of the switch, and a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully pry
> open the switch back. Open the switch very carefully. You have to make
> sure you know the orientation of the rocker and spring so you get them
> back like they were just without the sawdust.
"Michael White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> My Bosch 1617 router has died a second time with the same problem -
> absolutely nothing happens when you turn on the switch. The first time
> was
> under warranty, but it's about a year out of warranty now. Is it possible
> to fix this myself? Or does it require Bosch-specific (i.e. expensive)
> parts to fix?
>
I would contact Bosch and tell them that this is the second one. Obviously
an inherent problem that they have failed to fix as mine had a bad switch
also about 8 years ago. They know there is a problem with the switch
because you and I know.
The first thing I would look at is the switch.
"Michael White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> My Bosch 1617 router has died a second time with the same problem -
> absolutely nothing happens when you turn on the switch. The first time
was
> under warranty, but it's about a year out of warranty now. Is it possible
> to fix this myself? Or does it require Bosch-specific (i.e. expensive)
> parts to fix?
>
> If it's too much of a hassle, I may pitch it. It was in the shop one
other
> time under warranty, and I've no lost love for it :(.
>
> It's a shame, too - I'm very satisfied with all of my other Bosch
purchases.
> Of course, this one says "Made in USA", not Germany like, say, my 24V
Bosch
> drill, which has fallen off the roof twice with no ill effects.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --
> Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
> fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer
I've removed and cleaned out the switch in my 1617 three or four times
now. It gets choked with fine saw dust so the internals won't move. It
takes about 15 minutes to fix the problem and be back in business. This
is of course assuming that the switch hasn't actually broken.
All you need is a philips screwdriver to remove the top, a medium size
pair of needle nose pliers maybe to remove the spade connections on the
back of the switch, and a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully pry
open the switch back. Open the switch very carefully. You have to make
sure you know the orientation of the rocker and spring so you get them
back like they were just without the sawdust.
"Michael White" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> My Bosch 1617 router has died a second time with the same problem -
> absolutely nothing happens when you turn on the switch. The first time
> was
> under warranty, but it's about a year out of warranty now. Is it possible
> to fix this myself? Or does it require Bosch-specific (i.e. expensive)
> parts to fix?
>
> If it's too much of a hassle, I may pitch it. It was in the shop one
> other
> time under warranty, and I've no lost love for it :(.
>
> It's a shame, too - I'm very satisfied with all of my other Bosch
> purchases.
> Of course, this one says "Made in USA", not Germany like, say, my 24V
> Bosch
> drill, which has fallen off the roof twice with no ill effects.
>
My switch broke, so I left it in my table where I didn't need a switch; just
shorted it out. A couple years later I decided I wanted it out of the
table. I contacted Bosch and they sent me a new switch. Worth a try.
Pretty easy to install.
Charley wrote:
> Why don't you try to figure out how the sawdust is getting in and seal the
> leak or tape it closed. I had this trouble with a Delta Router/shaper
> switch and discovered that the gasket between the front and back half of
> the case wasn't sealing tight. After dis-assembly and cleaning I
> re-assembled it and then wrapped some electrical tape around the outside
> of the case to cover the seam. That was several years ago and it hasn't
> failed since. I had only used the tool a few months before it failed the
> first time.
>
I took the router apart (which, BTW, now requires a T-15 Torx bit, not a
Philips) and pulled out the switch. There was sawdust inside, but 1) the
sawdust didn't look to be interfering with the switch operation and 2) the
sawdust comes from the outside not through the back side, i.e. it can't be
sealed without fixing the switch in place.
What I did see, though, was that the contacts had quite a bit of carbon
buildup from all friggin' 12 amps arcing over to go through that small
connector (I'll pay the extra $2 for a relay! Geesh). I sanded it down
and the connection is now made, but that's not a long-term solution. So I
made a trip to Fry's and found a replacement switch that -looks- to be the
same size. Says it's rated a bit higher.
I'll let you know how it works.
--
Michael White "To protect people from the effects of folly is to
fill the world with fools." -Herbert Spencer