Typical & special 1/4 slotters will cut to ~5/8" without heroics.
But why get into the danger zone? Why not change that dimension of the
panel to accommodate a shallower slot? You 'll still have a hell of a
time busting a panel out of say a 1/2" deep slot.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)
***************************************
> Hello,
>
> Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at many site and
> went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't figure out what bit and
> bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4 wide by 3/4 deep.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
Slot cutter. Router or shaper, I prefer shaper. Depth of cut by bearing
selection.
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?ID=1
"L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
that
> will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
>
No, it's not. He's routing a groove to receive a panel.
Unless there are some really strange constructions out there, it's the
perfect place for a slot cutter.
> Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
that
> will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > I find it amusing that everyone is proposing solutions without making
sure
> > they understand the problem.
> >
>
> Agreed - to a point. I did raise the issue of the radius in my original
> response and suggested a couple of alternatives based on the radius, but
> your point is well taken all the same. I did not ask for more info
because
> I had already imagined in my mind that he wanted to route the face of a
> board probably in the area of 6"-8" wide. Don't bother asking how I
arrived
> at that premature conclusion - it ain't pretty. Someone else did raise
the
> question about the 3/4" depth requirement.
It is not that complex, it is just like making a tounge and groove joint on
an piece of 3/4" stock that has a arc cut out of it. The only wrinkle is
the plans call for 3/4 in deep slot and I couldn't find a slot bit bearing
combo that would leave me with 3/4 inch of slot cutter left outside the
bearing. I think I need to just go to a woodworking store and pile through
the bits and bearings
Thanks again for all the responses
"U-CDK_CHARLES\Charles" <"Charles Krug"@cdksystems.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 13:40:47 GMT, L C <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > Thanks for all the responses. To clarify here is what I am trying to do.
I
> > have plans that call for a 1/4 x 3/4 groove to receive a 1/4 panel. I
have
> > looked at most of the sites Rockler, Freud, Jesada, Amama, etc. I have
also
> > emailed some as well with no response yet. I can't seem to find the
slot
> > cutter / bearing combo I need. Sould be simple but it has spun me in a
> > little of a circle. I have emailed the creator of the plans to ask if
the
> > slot should be 3/8 deep. The arch is close to a 6" segment of a 24"
> > diameter circle ( not that drastic an arch ) and the wood is 3/4 inch
stock.
> > I cut the arch on the band saw then use the slot cutter to cut the
groove in
> > the arch. I am going to call Freud today and see if I can talk with a
> > person or take a ride to Tools-Tools-Tools in NH this Saturday.
> >
> > Hope this helps
> >
> > Thanks again
> >
> >
>
> I'm unclear whether your slot is straight or curved. If straight, most
> anything. Straight bit with a guide, table saw with a dado, dado
> plane . . whatever.
>
> If it's a CURVED slot, then you need to cut a template out of MDF to use
> as a guide, either for the router itself, or for a top-bearing pattern
> bit.
>
> If the curve is circular, you can also make a compass jig exactly to fit
> your router.
>
> You haven't really used a router until you have a dozen jigs under your
> belt :)_
>
> Were I cutting that deep with a router, I'd take multiple passes and
> consider UP spiral bits.
>
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:46:12 -0500, Morris Dovey <[email protected]>
wrote:
>L C wrote:
>
>> Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at
>> many site and went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't
>> figure out what bit and bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4
>> wide by 3/4 deep.
>
>There are slotting bits (imagine the router equivalent of a saw
>blade) that can be used to make this cut, but this is NOT a cut
>to make freehand. Because of the depth of cut I wouldn't suggest
>hand-guiding the work to make the cut on a router table.
>
>Your best bet is to find either a cabinet or sign shop with a CNC
>router and have them do this for you. They can clamp the
>workpiece down securely and control spindle speed, feed rade, and
>spindle motion safely.
I wouldn't have a problem with making this cut on the router table
with some featherboards to control the stock. a 3/4" depth wing style
slot cutter may be a difficult thing to find though. here's a place to
start:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/freud-tools/freudthrewin.html
"L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
that
> will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
>
I don't understand why a 3/4" bit won't work. If the arch is fairly tight -
such that a standard sized router base will not sit on it well enough and
ensure a consistent depth of cut, then why not use a 3/4" bit in a trim
router which has a much smaller base? The smaller base will follow a much
tighter radius than a standard sized base will. A trim router may have some
trouble cutting with a 3/4" bit in your selection of wood, but if that's the
case then go to a smaller bit and cut in two passes by adjusting the edge
guide. Dremmel tools and the competing products from other manufacturers
can be an equally valid option.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
You can use any straight bit 3/4" or smaller and cut against a guide.
If you are using a smaller bit, move the guide as necessary to get the width
of cut you need.
A dado head on a RAS or TS will also do it.
A router book would be a good investment.
Wilson
"L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at many site and
> went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't figure out what bit and
> bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4 wide by 3/4 deep.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry C
>
>
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
> > that
> > > will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
> > >
> >
> > I don't understand why a 3/4" bit won't work.
>
> Op said 1/4" WIDE. Not possible with a 3/4" bit.
>
>
My bad, but my reply to him still stands. So - he routes a 1/4" groove 3/4"
deep. That still does not explain why he can't do it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:46:12 -0500, Morris Dovey
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> L C wrote:
>>
>>> Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked
>>> at many site and went to a few stores here in NE Mass and
>>> I can't figure out what bit and bearing combo I need to
>>> cut a slot 1/4 wide by 3/4 deep.
>>
>> There are slotting bits (imagine the router equivalent of a
>> saw blade) that can be used to make this cut, but this is
>> NOT a cut to make freehand. Because of the depth of cut I
>> wouldn't suggest hand-guiding the work to make the cut on a
>> router table.
>>
>> Your best bet is to find either a cabinet or sign shop with
>> a CNC router and have them do this for you. They can clamp
>> the workpiece down securely and control spindle speed, feed
>> rade, and spindle motion safely.
>
> I wouldn't have a problem with making this cut on the router
> table with some featherboards to control the stock. a 3/4"
> depth wing style slot cutter may be a difficult thing to find
> though. here's a place to start:
> http://shop.store.yahoo.com/freud-tools/freudthrewin.html
I wouldn't have a problem with you making this cut, too (because
I think you have enough experience to do it safely, or not at
all). I inferred from the question that LC doesn't yet have that
same level of experience.
Sometimes I think the best advice is to find a pro, someone with
the ability to do the job safely, and learn by watching. I'm not
bashful about giving myself that same advice - and I almost
always learn something new. AND I can still count ten!
Assuming it's available off the shelf, this bit will probably be
2" in diameter (3/4" wing + 1/2" shaft + 3/4" wing) - big enough
that I'd unplug the phone and lock the door before I used it. (-:
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
> that
> > will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
> >
>
> I don't understand why a 3/4" bit won't work.
Op said 1/4" WIDE. Not possible with a 3/4" bit.
Mike Marlow wrote:
>
> "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:WvGLc.44
>>
>> I wouldn't have a problem with you making this cut, too (because
>> I think you have enough experience to do it safely, or not at
>> all). I inferred from the question that LC doesn't yet have that
>> same level of experience.
>>
>
> I've been following this thread from the very beginning and I don't
> understand what I'm missing. The original question seemed really straight
> forward to me - although I must admit, it almost seemed too straight
> forward. I could not understand how anyone who is even distantly familiar
> with a router would ask what I was seeing as a very, very fundamental
> question. That might have been my first clue that I was missing
> something,
> but ever the sleuth that I am, I continued to look for more clues.
> Several of the answers have centered around things like CNC tooling,
> cutters, levels
> of experience, etc. So, I'm back to square one - what am I missing here?
> This seems like a simple route to me.
I think what everyone is missing is is enough information. Nobody has asked
the obvious questions--how large a piece, what radius of curvature on the
arch, how close to an edge, is the cut on the face of the arch or on the
side paralleling it, and why does it have to be 3/4" deep?
I find it amusing that everyone is proposing solutions without making sure
they understand the problem.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:17:07 GMT, "L C" <[email protected]> wrote:
>It is not that complex, it is just like making a tounge and groove joint on
>an piece of 3/4" stock that has a arc cut out of it. The only wrinkle is
>the plans call for 3/4 in deep slot and I couldn't find a slot bit bearing
>combo that would leave me with 3/4 inch of slot cutter left outside the
>bearing. I think I need to just go to a woodworking store and pile through
>the bits and bearings
>
>Thanks again for all the responses
you may need to do this without a ball bearing guide. the 1/2" shaft
of the slot cutter arbor is the bearing surface. a little paste wax on
the rubbing part will help keep it from burning too badly.
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 16:17:07 GMT, L C <[email protected]> wrote:
> It is not that complex, it is just like making a tounge and groove joint on
> an piece of 3/4" stock that has a arc cut out of it. The only wrinkle is
> the plans call for 3/4 in deep slot and I couldn't find a slot bit bearing
> combo that would leave me with 3/4 inch of slot cutter left outside the
> bearing. I think I need to just go to a woodworking store and pile through
> the bits and bearings
>
> Thanks again for all the responses
>
>
Okay. In that case, I'd use a guide for the router and a straight
up-spiral bit. Take multiple passes.
Check your plywood. You might need an "undersized" (Plywood sized .
similar names) bit.
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 13:40:47 GMT, L C <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Thanks for all the responses. To clarify here is what I am trying to do. I
> have plans that call for a 1/4 x 3/4 groove to receive a 1/4 panel. I have
> looked at most of the sites Rockler, Freud, Jesada, Amama, etc. I have also
> emailed some as well with no response yet. I can't seem to find the slot
> cutter / bearing combo I need. Sould be simple but it has spun me in a
> little of a circle. I have emailed the creator of the plans to ask if the
> slot should be 3/8 deep. The arch is close to a 6" segment of a 24"
> diameter circle ( not that drastic an arch ) and the wood is 3/4 inch stock.
> I cut the arch on the band saw then use the slot cutter to cut the groove in
> the arch. I am going to call Freud today and see if I can talk with a
> person or take a ride to Tools-Tools-Tools in NH this Saturday.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Thanks again
>
>
I'm unclear whether your slot is straight or curved. If straight, most
anything. Straight bit with a guide, table saw with a dado, dado
plane . . whatever.
If it's a CURVED slot, then you need to cut a template out of MDF to use
as a guide, either for the router itself, or for a top-bearing pattern
bit.
If the curve is circular, you can also make a compass jig exactly to fit
your router.
You haven't really used a router until you have a dozen jigs under your
belt :)_
Were I cutting that deep with a router, I'd take multiple passes and
consider UP spiral bits.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I think what everyone is missing is is enough information. Nobody has
asked
> the obvious questions--how large a piece, what radius of curvature on the
> arch, how close to an edge, is the cut on the face of the arch or on the
> side paralleling it, and why does it have to be 3/4" deep?
>
> I find it amusing that everyone is proposing solutions without making sure
> they understand the problem.
>
Agreed - to a point. I did raise the issue of the radius in my original
response and suggested a couple of alternatives based on the radius, but
your point is well taken all the same. I did not ask for more info because
I had already imagined in my mind that he wanted to route the face of a
board probably in the area of 6"-8" wide. Don't bother asking how I arrived
at that premature conclusion - it ain't pretty. Someone else did raise the
question about the 3/4" depth requirement.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
L C wrote:
> Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at
> many site and went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't
> figure out what bit and bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4
> wide by 3/4 deep.
There are slotting bits (imagine the router equivalent of a saw
blade) that can be used to make this cut, but this is NOT a cut
to make freehand. Because of the depth of cut I wouldn't suggest
hand-guiding the work to make the cut on a router table.
Your best bet is to find either a cabinet or sign shop with a CNC
router and have them do this for you. They can clamp the
workpiece down securely and control spindle speed, feed rade, and
spindle motion safely.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock that
will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
Larry
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You can use any straight bit 3/4" or smaller and cut against a guide.
> If you are using a smaller bit, move the guide as necessary to get the
width
> of cut you need.
> A dado head on a RAS or TS will also do it.
> A router book would be a good investment.
> Wilson
> "L C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hello,
> >
> > Can someone please help me I am confused. I have looked at many site
and
> > went to a few stores here in NE Mass and I can't figure out what bit and
> > bearing combo I need to cut a slot 1/4 wide by 3/4 deep.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Larry C
> >
> >
>
>
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 12:24:54 GMT, "L C" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock that
>will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
Look up "slotting cutter bits". I use one for routing out for
biscuits. They come in various sizes. Lee Valley Tools is one
source.
Bill.
"Morris Dovey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:WvGLc.44
>
> I wouldn't have a problem with you making this cut, too (because
> I think you have enough experience to do it safely, or not at
> all). I inferred from the question that LC doesn't yet have that
> same level of experience.
>
I've been following this thread from the very beginning and I don't
understand what I'm missing. The original question seemed really straight
forward to me - although I must admit, it almost seemed too straight
forward. I could not understand how anyone who is even distantly familiar
with a router would ask what I was seeing as a very, very fundamental
question. That might have been my first clue that I was missing something,
but ever the sleuth that I am, I continued to look for more clues. Several
of the answers have centered around things like CNC tooling, cutters, levels
of experience, etc. So, I'm back to square one - what am I missing here?
This seems like a simple route to me.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Hello,
Thanks for all the responses. To clarify here is what I am trying to do. I
have plans that call for a 1/4 x 3/4 groove to receive a 1/4 panel. I have
looked at most of the sites Rockler, Freud, Jesada, Amama, etc. I have also
emailed some as well with no response yet. I can't seem to find the slot
cutter / bearing combo I need. Sould be simple but it has spun me in a
little of a circle. I have emailed the creator of the plans to ask if the
slot should be 3/8 deep. The arch is close to a 6" segment of a 24"
diameter circle ( not that drastic an arch ) and the wood is 3/4 inch stock.
I cut the arch on the band saw then use the slot cutter to cut the groove in
the arch. I am going to call Freud today and see if I can talk with a
person or take a ride to Tools-Tools-Tools in NH this Saturday.
Hope this helps
Thanks again
> No, it's not. He's routing a groove to receive a panel.
>
> Unless there are some really strange constructions out there, it's the
> perfect place for a slot cutter.
>
> > Let me explain further, I am cutting a slot in a arched piece of stock
> that
> > will recieve a panel so I don't think those methods will work.
> >
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > I find it amusing that everyone is proposing solutions without making
> sure
> > > they understand the problem.
> > >
> >
> > Agreed - to a point. I did raise the issue of the radius in my original
> > response and suggested a couple of alternatives based on the radius, but
> > your point is well taken all the same. I did not ask for more info
> because
> > I had already imagined in my mind that he wanted to route the face of a
> > board probably in the area of 6"-8" wide. Don't bother asking how I
> arrived
> > at that premature conclusion - it ain't pretty. Someone else did raise
> the
> > question about the 3/4" depth requirement.
>
>