Removing or preventing tool rust is a topic that comes up frequently. There
are many techniques and products that help keep tools rust free, but I
missed seeing one tip that I picked up from this group a while back.
Camphor. I put a small block of camphor in each tool drawer. The tip I
used said that the evaporating/dissolving camphor left a deposit on the
metal tools and the deposit seemed to keep away the rust.
There are obvious drawbacks to the use of camphor. It works with tools in
the tool chest, tool box and any other closed unit. It does not work with
hanging tools. Through experience I have found the camphor does not work on
tools left on the workbench for long periods. (I actually don't know if
there are any tools on the workbench. I haven't seen the top of my bench in
four years. Tomorrow I'll get organized)
What do I use to prevent or remove rust? Besides the camphor, I use Slipit,
Johnson Paste wax, Top Cote, Top Saver, Rust Off, RustFree, Boeshield T-9,
Navel Jelly, dynaGlide Dry Lubricant & Cleaner, Rust-Oleum Rust Stripper,
Birchwood Labs Blue & Rust Remover, Never-Dull, WD-40, 3M abrasive pads,
steel wool, wet or dry sandpaper, wire brush and elbow grease.
Next, I'm going to try electrolysis. I'm also going to try Mike Taylor's
plane restoration service in Katy, Texas to restore a flea market find.
The rust problem was really bad in South Florida. We moved North to
Jacksonville and about twenty miles inland. It is a little better here.
But then a little rust is such a small price to pay to live in paradise.
:-)
Jack
Jacksonville, Florida
--
I found the site. You can buy camphor online from
http://www.ericscollections.com
John Flatley wrote:
> Removing or preventing tool rust is a topic that comes up frequently.
There
> are many techniques and products that help keep tools rust free, but
I
> missed seeing one tip that I picked up from this group a while back.
>
> Camphor. I put a small block of camphor in each tool drawer. The
tip I
> used said that the evaporating/dissolving camphor left a deposit on
the
> metal tools and the deposit seemed to keep away the rust.
>
> There are obvious drawbacks to the use of camphor. It works with
tools in
> the tool chest, tool box and any other closed unit. It does not work
with
> hanging tools. Through experience I have found the camphor does not
work on
> tools left on the workbench for long periods. (I actually don't know
if
> there are any tools on the workbench. I haven't seen the top of my
bench in
> four years. Tomorrow I'll get organized)
>
> What do I use to prevent or remove rust? Besides the camphor, I use
Slipit,
> Johnson Paste wax, Top Cote, Top Saver, Rust Off, RustFree, Boeshield
T-9,
> Navel Jelly, dynaGlide Dry Lubricant & Cleaner, Rust-Oleum Rust
Stripper,
> Birchwood Labs Blue & Rust Remover, Never-Dull, WD-40, 3M abrasive
pads,
> steel wool, wet or dry sandpaper, wire brush and elbow grease.
>
> Next, I'm going to try electrolysis. I'm also going to try Mike
Taylor's
> plane restoration service in Katy, Texas to restore a flea market
find.
>
> The rust problem was really bad in South Florida. We moved North to
> Jacksonville and about twenty miles inland. It is a little better
here.
> But then a little rust is such a small price to pay to live in
paradise.
> :-)
>
> Jack
> Jacksonville, Florida
>
> --
On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 00:17:09 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 00:11:06 GMT, "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>LOL. Noooooo.. I am not that concerned with the appearance, but it does
>>>work.
>>>
>>
>> This will probably show up in "American Woodworker" this summer. <G>
>>
>> Barry
>
>
>Yeah and some one will probably win a new Ford Pickup and a fully equipped
>shop. LOL
>
>But on another note. If you could roll the glue over the entire surface and
>peal it off. Hummm...
That's approaching the green-magic-marker-on-CDs thing.
You probably have to have spent some time in Stereophile magazine to
get that.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 00:11:06 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>LOL. Noooooo.. I am not that concerned with the appearance, but it does
>>work.
>>
>
> This will probably show up in "American Woodworker" this summer. <G>
>
> Barry
Yeah and some one will probably win a new Ford Pickup and a fully equipped
shop. LOL
But on another note. If you could roll the glue over the entire surface and
peal it off. Hummm...
"LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 16:12:59 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Here is something interesting that I have recently discovered.
>>Occasionally
>>I have a large project to glue up and use my TS as a work surface.
>>Sometimes the TB II glue drips out of a joint on to the cast iron surface
>>and I don't catch it until after it starts to set. Oddly when I pop the
>>glue off the TS iron surface, it leaves a bright and shiny spot where the
>>glue was.
>
> So, are you advocating...nah, you're not...are you?
LOL... Nah. But try it is on a small spot. Let dry just enough that it
will not smear when you "pop it" off. You'll see a silver surface again.
"John Flatley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Removing or preventing tool rust is a topic that comes up frequently.
> There
> are many techniques and products that help keep tools rust free, but I
> missed seeing one tip that I picked up from this group a while back.
>
> Camphor. I put a small block of camphor in each tool drawer. The tip I
> used said that the evaporating/dissolving camphor left a deposit on the
> metal tools and the deposit seemed to keep away the rust.
>
> There are obvious drawbacks to the use of camphor. It works with tools in
> the tool chest, tool box and any other closed unit. It does not work with
> hanging tools. Through experience I have found the camphor does not work
> on
> tools left on the workbench for long periods. (I actually don't know if
> there are any tools on the workbench. I haven't seen the top of my bench
> in
> four years. Tomorrow I'll get organized)
Here is something interesting that I have recently discovered. Occasionally
I have a large project to glue up and use my TS as a work surface.
Sometimes the TB II glue drips out of a joint on to the cast iron surface
and I don't catch it until after it starts to set. Oddly when I pop the
glue off the TS iron surface, it leaves a bright and shiny spot where the
glue was.
On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 16:12:59 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Sometimes the TB II glue drips out of a joint on to the cast iron surface
>and I don't catch it until after it starts to set. Oddly when I pop the
>glue off the TS iron surface, it leaves a bright and shiny spot where the
>glue was.
>
Are you volunteering your saw to be coated with glue for a long term
test?
Barry
On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 00:11:06 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>LOL. Noooooo.. I am not that concerned with the appearance, but it does
>work.
>
This will probably show up in "American Woodworker" this summer. <G>
Barry
On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 10:58:43 -0500, "John Flatley" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>What do I use to prevent or remove rust? Besides the camphor, I use Slipit,
>Johnson Paste wax, Top Cote, Top Saver, Rust Off, RustFree, Boeshield T-9,
>Navel Jelly, dynaGlide Dry Lubricant & Cleaner, Rust-Oleum Rust Stripper,
>Birchwood Labs Blue & Rust Remover, Never-Dull, WD-40, 3M abrasive pads,
>steel wool, wet or dry sandpaper, wire brush and elbow grease.
>
What luck! I have all of these (except the wire brush) in the
drawer of my bedside table.
On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 16:12:59 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Here is something interesting that I have recently discovered. Occasionally
>I have a large project to glue up and use my TS as a work surface.
>Sometimes the TB II glue drips out of a joint on to the cast iron surface
>and I don't catch it until after it starts to set. Oddly when I pop the
>glue off the TS iron surface, it leaves a bright and shiny spot where the
>glue was.
So, are you advocating...nah, you're not...are you?
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
"Ba r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 16:12:59 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Sometimes the TB II glue drips out of a joint on to the cast iron surface
>>and I don't catch it until after it starts to set. Oddly when I pop the
>>glue off the TS iron surface, it leaves a bright and shiny spot where the
>>glue was.
>>
>
> Are you volunteering your saw to be coated with glue for a long term
> test?
>
> Barry
LOL. Noooooo.. I am not that concerned with the appearance, but it does
work.