Another mission type bed question for newbie

"stryped" wrote in message

> I was looking at the verticle "slats" in the middle of the headboard
> and footboard. I am thinking 1.5 inches and 1/2 inch thick or so.

That will work. The idea is to dimension your slats so that they fill the
space between the stiles/posts/legs, with equal distance between them, in
pleasing manner.

The below is my homegrown formula for spacing a given number of same width
slats/spindles evenly between two points:

X = (S - (W*N))/(N + 1)

where:

X = spacing in inches
S = Space to be filled with slats of a desired width
W = Desired width of slat
N = Number of slats desired

HINT: plug the above into a spreadsheet to make it _real_ easy during your
design stage, and to try different size options.

> I have a drill press. Would buying a mortising chisel for it be easier
> that using my router table? (I have never used a chisel. How do they
> work?)

See last below.

> If I do tennon the slats, how do I endure each slat is identical in
> length?

Learn to batch cut identical parts ... one of the most important concepts in
woodworking. To do this you generally use a fence, or jig, with STOPS set to
the appropriate place to insure all parts are cut/routed/whatever, to the
same length/depth.

Sounds like you need a couple of good books on basic woodworking ... it is
full time job unto itself trying to teach you the basics over Usenet.

Go to your library, community college, local woodworker's supply, etc. to
see what is available.

--
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Last update: 12/13/05

x-no-archive:yes

I was looking at the verticle "slats" in the middle of the headboard
and footboard. I am thinking 1.5 inches and 1/2 inch thick or so.

I have a drill press. Would buying a mortising chisel for it be easier
that using my router table? (I have never used a chisel. How do they
work?)

If I do tennon the slats, how do I endure each slat is identical in
length? I have at my disposal power miter saw, small bench top delta 10
inch table saw, drill press, small 1/4 inch router table, circular saw,
etc.
Swingman wrote:
> "stryped" wrote in message
> > Can anyone take a guess at how long and wide the slats are for the
> > headboard and footboard?
> >
> > http://www.furnishingsontheweb.com/NoFrame/Items/027123nf.html
>
> Worthess link as there are too many options making it difficult to tell the
> one you're looking at.
>
> > I have come to the conclusion that I think the posts are 3x3
> >
> > Also, as you all know I am a newbie. I know the slats are typically
> > mortise and tennon joints. I was reading in my woodworkign book last
> > night that these were difficult to make. Would I save time and would it
> > be easier to just use a dowel or two instead?
>
> From what I can see, these are the easiest mortise and tenons you'll ever
> have the opportunity to do as there is no curve in the top rail of the head
> or foot board ... and by the time you get finished you will be an expert.
>
> They are not hard to do with a dedicated mortiser or a drill press
> attachment.
>
> Dowels will only work for any length of time if you use at least three in
> each slat, and the slat material is thick enough to support dowels, IOW,
> 3/4" thick with a 1/4" dowel.
>
> Dowels are a cheesy solution for slats in Mission style furniture, but
> that's up to you.
>
> There is another "slat" solution that does not involve cutting either
> mortise or tenons:
>
> Cut a groove, the same width as the thickness of your slats, in the rails to
> accept the ends of the slats, and fill in between them with wood strips cut
> to that groove size.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 12/13/05

>Cut a groove, the same width as the thickness of your slats, in the rails to
>accept the ends of the slats, and fill in between them with wood strips cut
>to that groove size.

I saw a technique similar to this that I thought was interesting. You
cut the groove like you said only 1/4" or 1/2" deeper, then you cut a
piece that forms the sides and the bottoms of the mortises. Like a
strip with notches ever couple inches where the mortises go. The
mortises exactly fit the notches. Then you glue in the strip, and
before that glue dries, put in the spindle mortises. What I liked
about this was that you didn't have a couple dozen pieces to keep track
of and have move around during assembly. You could cut the notches on
the table saw just like you would a box joint, with a box joint type
jig or something. Looked like a good idea.

brian

"Leuf" wrote in message

"Swingman" wrote:
>
> >
> >Dowels will only work for any length of time if you use at least three in
> >each slat, and the slat material is thick enough to support dowels, IOW,
> >3/4" thick with a 1/4" dowel.
>
> I kind of doubt you need 3. 2 is enough to keep it from rotating,

One dowel on each end (2), will allow the slat to eventually rotate; two on
one end, and one on the other (3), will discourage rotation ... for a while.
It's one reason tenons are generally square/rectangular.

>and they aren't really going to be subject to much stress.

This is a bed and, depending upon the age/gender of the occupants, beds,
headboards and footboards can be subjected to a lot of stress ... even if
they aren't into bondage. ;)

--
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Last update: 12/13/05

stryped wrote:
> I have a drill press. Would buying a mortising chisel for it be easier
> that using my router table?

Mortices are in the middle (not on the edge) of something. How you plan
to do that on a router table?
________________

> (I have never used a chisel. How do they
> work?)

They drill square holes. Actually, they drill round ones and the hollow
chisel surrounding the bit makes it square.
________________

Do what someone suggested...don't use mortices and tennons, use filler
blocks.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"stryped" wrote in message
> Can anyone take a guess at how long and wide the slats are for the
> headboard and footboard?
>
> http://www.furnishingsontheweb.com/NoFrame/Items/027123nf.html

Worthess link as there are too many options making it difficult to tell the
one you're looking at.

> I have come to the conclusion that I think the posts are 3x3
>
> Also, as you all know I am a newbie. I know the slats are typically
> mortise and tennon joints. I was reading in my woodworkign book last
> night that these were difficult to make. Would I save time and would it
> be easier to just use a dowel or two instead?

From what I can see, these are the easiest mortise and tenons you'll ever
have the opportunity to do as there is no curve in the top rail of the head
or foot board ... and by the time you get finished you will be an expert.

They are not hard to do with a dedicated mortiser or a drill press
attachment.

Dowels will only work for any length of time if you use at least three in
each slat, and the slat material is thick enough to support dowels, IOW,
3/4" thick with a 1/4" dowel.

Dowels are a cheesy solution for slats in Mission style furniture, but
that's up to you.

There is another "slat" solution that does not involve cutting either
mortise or tenons:

Cut a groove, the same width as the thickness of your slats, in the rails to
accept the ends of the slats, and fill in between them with wood strips cut
to that groove size.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

"Leuf" wrote in message

> I thought you meant 3 on each end. I dunno why you'd do 2 on one end
> and one on the other.

What was said: "Dowels will only work for any length of time if you use at
least three in each slat"

> Set up once and do 2 on each end. Still, I'd
> rather drop a K bessey on my foot than mess around with that many
> dowels.

Yep ...

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Last update: 12/13/05

On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 14:57:48 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Leuf" wrote in message
>> I kind of doubt you need 3. 2 is enough to keep it from rotating,
>
>One dowel on each end (2), will allow the slat to eventually rotate; two on
>one end, and one on the other (3), will discourage rotation ... for a while.
>It's one reason tenons are generally square/rectangular.

I thought you meant 3 on each end. I dunno why you'd do 2 on one end
and one on the other. Set up once and do 2 on each end. Still, I'd
rather drop a K bessey on my foot than mess around with that many
dowels.


-Leuf

On Fri, 10 Feb 2006 08:32:19 -0600, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>Dowels will only work for any length of time if you use at least three in
>each slat, and the slat material is thick enough to support dowels, IOW,
>3/4" thick with a 1/4" dowel.

I kind of doubt you need 3. 2 is enough to keep it from rotating, and
they aren't really going to be subject to much stress.

There's also "Beadlock" which is a way of doing loose tenons with just
a drill. The tenon stock might be too wide though.

>There is another "slat" solution that does not involve cutting either
>mortise or tenons:
>
>Cut a groove, the same width as the thickness of your slats, in the rails to
>accept the ends of the slats, and fill in between them with wood strips cut
>to that groove size.

This is how I'd recommend he do it too.


-Leuf