No more melamine chipout

I agree. I bought that Freud blade a few months ago and
I sure wish I had done it sooner.

Saves a lot of frustration with melamine and
hardwood veneered plywood chipout. What is the point
of paying $60 for a sheet of plywood and then tearing the
hell out of it?

Lou

In article <[email protected]>, Mr
Fixit eh <[email protected]> wrote:

> I was having lots of trouble with chipout on melamine-faced
> particleboard while building drawers for kitchen cabines. I had bought
> a new blade for the task, a 100 tooth Oldham finishing blade advertized
> as good for plywood and plastics, etc.
>
> I finally broke down an bought a new Freud TK806L Thin Kerf
> Laminate/Melamine and Laminate Flooring Blade. Wow, it's truly
> amazing!!! Absolutely zero chipout. The teeth have a triple chip
> grind and a negative 5 degree hook angle.
>
> I wish I'd discovered this blade BEFORE I'd cut most of the panels!
>
> Now the question: how can blade design make this radical a difference?
>
> Steve
>

On the NYW episode on making a kitchen pantry, Nahm talks about the
differences in a blade made for use on Melamine. He explained that
every third or fourth tooth on the blade is set a little higher on one
edge or the other. The higher tooth hits the melamine first and scores
the surface, effectively eliminating chipout.

> I finally broke down an bought a new Freud TK806L Thin Kerf
> Laminate/Melamine and Laminate Flooring Blade. Wow, it's truly
> amazing!!! Absolutely zero chipout. The teeth have a triple chip
> grind and a negative 5 degree hook angle.
>
> I wish I'd discovered this blade BEFORE I'd cut most of the panels!
>
> Now the question: how can blade design make this radical a difference?

The triple chip grind is ideal for particleboard and other similar types of
composites, and the negative hook angle helps control chipout.

Mr Fixit eh wrote:
> I was having lots of trouble with chipout on melamine-faced
> particleboard while building drawers for kitchen cabines. I had bought
> a new blade for the task, a 100 tooth Oldham finishing blade advertized
> as good for plywood and plastics, etc.
>
> I finally broke down an bought a new Freud TK806L Thin Kerf
> Laminate/Melamine and Laminate Flooring Blade. Wow, it's truly
> amazing!!! Absolutely zero chipout. The teeth have a triple chip
> grind and a negative 5 degree hook angle.
>
> I wish I'd discovered this blade BEFORE I'd cut most of the panels!
>
> Now the question: how can blade design make this radical a difference?
>
> Steve
>
That's good but these blades are too expensive for me.

I use a marking knife and starightedge to score two parralell lines very
slightly wider than the blade and then cut. Useually very siuccessful
and a lot cheaper.

Mike

Pretty amazing, huh? I've got a Freud double sided melamine blade that
also gives zero chipout, and an SD508 dado set that also gives totally
chip-free cuts in melamine. Every time I make a cut with those blades
I'm in awe.

Dave

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

> I was having lots of trouble with chipout on melamine-faced
> particleboard while building drawers for kitchen cabines. I had bought
> a new blade for the task, a 100 tooth Oldham finishing blade advertized
> as good for plywood and plastics, etc.
>
> I finally broke down an bought a new Freud TK806L Thin Kerf
> Laminate/Melamine and Laminate Flooring Blade. Wow, it's truly
> amazing!!! Absolutely zero chipout. The teeth have a triple chip
> grind and a negative 5 degree hook angle.
>
> I wish I'd discovered this blade BEFORE I'd cut most of the panels!
>
> Now the question: how can blade design make this radical a difference?
>
> Steve
>