I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
Can it be done?
Does it have any obvious problems that make face jointing necessary? Are
they cupped and/or bowed appreciably? If not, skip the jointer and plane
them.It seems to be popular these days to say you have to joint everything,
that the planer won't help. That's BS. If the wood is strait enough to go
through the planer without rocking, you will be fine. I don't own a jointer.
Have never felt a big need (though I have used them). If it rocks when you
set it on the bench, take down the high spots with a plane. Perfectly flat
is NOT necessary.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:BLE%[email protected]...
> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are
both
> 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>
> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
> only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
> boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>
> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
> boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>
> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
> would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>
> Can it be done?
>
>
>
Yes. Carefully. _Light_ cuts. You may need lots of finesse (and thicker
stock), but you set the fence back a little more than 1/2 the width of
your stock, and keep checking your progress. Put it through a thickness
planer or sneak up on the difference with a hand plane. Watch that
cutterhead! But what's so hard about rip and glue? You'd probably save
in stock thickness. Tom
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:0ZG%[email protected]...
> Does it have any obvious problems that make face jointing necessary? Are
> they cupped and/or bowed appreciably?
They dont appear to be. The planer should remove any mild cupping, but not
any bowing.?. If there is mild bowing it might be straigtened when fastened
to the table frame. But this might put stress on the frame (tweak
alignment) and cause the four legs not to touch the floor level.
> If not, skip the jointer and plane
> them.It seems to be popular these days to say you have to joint
> everything,
> that the planer won't help. That's BS. If the wood is strait enough to go
> through the planer without rocking, you will be fine. I don't own a
> jointer.
> Have never felt a big need (though I have used them). If it rocks when you
> set it on the bench, take down the high spots with a plane. Perfectly flat
> is NOT necessary.
Is birds eye maple tear out prone??
I thought the grain pattern would flow better if I had two glue ups instead
of four. But maybe that is the way to go.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> stoutman wrote:
>
>> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are
>> both 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>>
>> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer
>> is only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5"
>> wide boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>>
>> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
>> boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>>
>> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
>> would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>>
>> Can it be done?
>>
>>
>>
> you COULD if the wood isn't tearout prone (I say that because you MUST run
> the other half in the opposite direction to the first cut).
>
> Dave
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:B%F%e.34713$tT.2319@okepread02...
> lf in the opposite direction to the first cut).
>>>
>>> Dave
>> personally, my solution would be rip and glue.
>
>
> I agree with rip and glue. There is an outside chance you might save
> yourself a little cupping problem in the future (But that is a whole
> separate subject).
I thought the grain pattern (birds eye maple) would flow better if I had two
glue ups instead
of four, but you make a good point about cupping over time.
thanks!
>
> RonB
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 00:39:05 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> scribbled:
>
> >Is birds eye maple tear out prone??
>
> Bird's *invented* tearout. :-(
>
> Scraping and sanding after using an extremely sharp hand plane and
> wetting it down is the only way to go, IME. YMMV.
>
Or use a drumsander as a thicknesser.
In article <[email protected]>,
David <[email protected]> wrote:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
> >
> > Or use a drumsander as a thicknesser.
> what other functions does a drum sander have, other than as a
> thicknesser? :)
>
> Dave
One of my suppliers, a very large factory where they make kitchen and
bathroom cabinet doors, they use drum sanders in the initial stages of
finishing completed doors before they go through the TimeSavers for the
finer grits.
Another fellow I know uses a drum sander to take the glazing off freshly
planed maple boards.... again, surface treatment, not dimensioning.
Does that answer your question, Dave?
stoutman wrote:
> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
> 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>
> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
> only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
> boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>
> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
> boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>
> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
> would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>
> Can it be done?
>
>
>
you COULD if the wood isn't tearout prone (I say that because you MUST
run the other half in the opposite direction to the first cut).
Dave
David wrote:
> stoutman wrote:
>
>> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are
>> both 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>>
>> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My
>> jointer is only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have
>> purchased three 5" wide boards, but didn't think about that at the
>> lumber store.
>>
>> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5"
>> wide boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>>
>> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other
>> side? I would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>>
>> Can it be done?
>>
>>
>>
> you COULD if the wood isn't tearout prone (I say that because you MUST
> run the other half in the opposite direction to the first cut).
>
> Dave
personally, my solution would be rip and glue.
Dave
Heck, I just clamp a piece of angle aluminum to the underside of the
board in question, then use a bearing router bit to use the aluminum
as the guide and router it
John
On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 15:28:24 GMT, tSp <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 23:14:41 +0000, wrote:
>
>> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
>> 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>>
>> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
>> only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
>> boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>>
>> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
>> boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>>
>> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
>> would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>>
>> Can it be done?
>
>I have seen various articles on the net about using a router as a jointer
>for wide boards. Off the top of my head, I believe it is a basic frame
>that surrounds the wood to be planed. The frame is obviously perfectly
>flat. The router is then used as a jointer by riding on the frame and
>removing the high spots.
[email protected] wrote:
> Heck, I just clamp a piece of angle aluminum to the underside of the
> board in question, then use a bearing router bit to use the aluminum
> as the guide and router it
>
> John
>
> On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 15:28:24 GMT, tSp <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 23:14:41 +0000, wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
>>>9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>>>
>>>If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
>>>only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
>>>boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>>>
>>>Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
>>>boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>>>
>>>Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
>>>would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>>>
>>>Can it be done?
>>
>>I have seen various articles on the net about using a router as a jointer
>>for wide boards. Off the top of my head, I believe it is a basic frame
>>that surrounds the wood to be planed. The frame is obviously perfectly
>>flat. The router is then used as a jointer by riding on the frame and
>>removing the high spots.
I believe the OP is talking about face jointing, rather than edge jointing.
-John
On Sat, 01 Oct 2005 23:14:41 +0000, wrote:
> I am making the top for a hall table and the boards I bought today are both
> 9.5" wide. The top needs to be 14.5" wide.
>
> If I am going to face joint the lumber, here is the problem: My jointer is
> only 6" wide so ideally I would have liked to have purchased three 5" wide
> boards, but didn't think about that at the lumber store.
>
> Now I am stuck with the possibility of having to split the two 9.5" wide
> boards and join 4 to make the top. I don't wanna do that.
>
> Can I face join half the board and flip it around to do the other side? I
> would have to remove the cutter guard, and say a prayer, but...
>
> Can it be done?
I have seen various articles on the net about using a router as a jointer
for wide boards. Off the top of my head, I believe it is a basic frame
that surrounds the wood to be planed. The frame is obviously perfectly
flat. The router is then used as a jointer by riding on the frame and
removing the high spots.
Sight down the length of the board. Is it strait? You can see amazingly
small variations. If you see any problems, plane (hand) off the high spots.
If it is as strait as you can see and it tweaks anything, your structure has
other problems.
"stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:ApH%[email protected]...
>
> They dont appear to be. The planer should remove any mild cupping, but
not
> any bowing.?. If there is mild bowing it might be straigtened when
fastened
> to the table frame. But this might put stress on the frame (tweak
> alignment) and cause the four legs not to touch the floor level.
On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 00:39:05 GMT, "stoutman" <.@.> scribbled:
>Is birds eye maple tear out prone??
Bird's *invented* tearout. :-(
Scraping and sanding after using an extremely sharp hand plane and
wetting it down is the only way to go, IME. YMMV.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Woodworking
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yes. Carefully. _Light_ cuts. You may need lots of finesse (and thicker
> stock), but you set the fence back a little more than 1/2 the width of
> your stock, and keep checking your progress. Put it through a thickness
> planer or sneak up on the difference with a hand plane. Watch that
> cutterhead! But what's so hard about rip and glue?
It's possible I'm being a little silly, but I thought the two glue ups
versus 4 would look nicer because the (birds eye maple) figure would flow
better.
I think I will probably end up ripping and jointing 4-boards.
Thanks
>You'd probably save in stock thickness. Tom
>