Listers:
I'm preparing to make a curved railing for a deck. The top railing is
about 3 and 3/4" wide and I need a router bit that will span halfway
across that distance so that the profile will shed water. On the
bottom rail, I want the traditional deep, low angle chamfer that also
spans half the distance in order to shed water. Since the railing is
curved the table saw won't help. I'm thinking of using 3 1/2" raised
panel bits to get the job done. Does anyone have a different idea for
this problem? Are low angle wide chamfer bits available? Is there
some railing bit available that will span the distance I need? Any
ideas appreciated...
J. Painter
Other things run downhill, too.
"James D Kountz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Actually the handrail hes speaking of slopes from the center down to the
> edges at about 10-15 degrees depending on tatse. I make mine from 4" wide
1
> 1/2 stock. I try to get the bevel cut so that it leaves about 5/8 - 3/4 of
> square edge on the sides of the rail. A straight rail is a piece of cake,
> simply run it through the table saw. For a curved piece though you must go
> to a shaper, router or hand method of making the beveled, sloping rail. So
> there one can see where a 12 or 15 degree panel raiser would work
excellent
> for this type of rail. Stick around Oh Young One! :-)
>
> Jim
>
>
> "Young_carpenter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Why so much so big? Never seen such a use of the chamfer. you seem to
be
> > asking this for this result /\
> > a rail for looks and comfort reasons should look like this /````\
One option would be a bit similar to this one:
http://iseek.com/Projects/omnicat5/index.php?cat_id=0
656-601 TABLE EDGE BIT - Shank = 1/2"
This would get you a light curve with a flat on top for the
width of hand rail in your OP.
If you wanted a fully curved profile, you could set the
bit deeper to get a slight shoulder on top then a few
passes with a plane (tailed or otherwise) to carry the
curve over.
<standard disclaimer of having no financial association
with the above link comanpy>
--
Think thrice, measure twice and cut once.
Sanding is like paying taxes ... everyone has to do it, but it is
important to take steps to minimize it.
There is only one period and no underscores in the real email address.
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Sounds to me like you got it figured out, the raised panel bit should work
fine for that.
Jim
"J. Painter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Listers:
>
> I'm preparing to make a curved railing for a deck. The top railing is
> about 3 and 3/4" wide and I need a router bit that will span halfway
> across that distance so that the profile will shed water. On the
> bottom rail, I want the traditional deep, low angle chamfer that also
> spans half the distance in order to shed water. Since the railing is
> curved the table saw won't help. I'm thinking of using 3 1/2" raised
> panel bits to get the job done. Does anyone have a different idea for
> this problem? Are low angle wide chamfer bits available? Is there
> some railing bit available that will span the distance I need? Any
> ideas appreciated...
>
> J. Painter
Why so much so big? Never seen such a use of the chamfer. you seem to be
asking this for this result /\
a rail for looks and comfort reasons should look like this /````\
--
"J. Painter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Listers:
>
> I'm preparing to make a curved railing for a deck. The top railing is
> about 3 and 3/4" wide and I need a router bit that will span halfway
> across that distance so that the profile will shed water. On the
> bottom rail, I want the traditional deep, low angle chamfer that also
> spans half the distance in order to shed water. Since the railing is
> curved the table saw won't help. I'm thinking of using 3 1/2" raised
> panel bits to get the job done. Does anyone have a different idea for
> this problem? Are low angle wide chamfer bits available? Is there
> some railing bit available that will span the distance I need? Any
> ideas appreciated...
>
> J. Painter
Actually the handrail hes speaking of slopes from the center down to the
edges at about 10-15 degrees depending on tatse. I make mine from 4" wide 1
1/2 stock. I try to get the bevel cut so that it leaves about 5/8 - 3/4 of
square edge on the sides of the rail. A straight rail is a piece of cake,
simply run it through the table saw. For a curved piece though you must go
to a shaper, router or hand method of making the beveled, sloping rail. So
there one can see where a 12 or 15 degree panel raiser would work excellent
for this type of rail. Stick around Oh Young One! :-)
Jim
"Young_carpenter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Why so much so big? Never seen such a use of the chamfer. you seem to be
> asking this for this result /\
> a rail for looks and comfort reasons should look like this /````\
>
> --
>
>
> "J. Painter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Listers:
> >
> > I'm preparing to make a curved railing for a deck. The top railing is
> > about 3 and 3/4" wide and I need a router bit that will span halfway
> > across that distance so that the profile will shed water. On the
> > bottom rail, I want the traditional deep, low angle chamfer that also
> > spans half the distance in order to shed water. Since the railing is
> > curved the table saw won't help. I'm thinking of using 3 1/2" raised
> > panel bits to get the job done. Does anyone have a different idea for
> > this problem? Are low angle wide chamfer bits available? Is there
> > some railing bit available that will span the distance I need? Any
> > ideas appreciated...
> >
> > J. Painter
>
>
>
> Actually the handrail hes speaking of slopes from the center down to the
> edges at about 10-15 degrees depending on tatse. I make mine from 4" wide 1
> 1/2 stock. I try to get the bevel cut so that it leaves about 5/8 - 3/4 of
> square edge on the sides of the rail. A straight rail is a piece of cake,
> simply run it through the table saw. For a curved piece though you must go
> to a shaper, router or hand method of making the beveled, sloping rail. So
> there one can see where a 12 or 15 degree panel raiser would work excellent
> for this type of rail. Stick around Oh Young One! :-)
>
> Jim
>
>
Precisely so, Jim, and "bevel" is the better word than my "chamfer".
I still haven't found a bit that will allow me to get the rail width I
want and have the bevels meet in the middle. Looks like my only
choice would be to buy a shaper (not bloody likely) or compromise and
have the bevels end before the center. Probably I would leave enough
flat area on the top to equal the width of the spindle bottom.
I've thought long and hard about other possiblities. I can imagine a
jig that would allow me to use my table saw on the OUTSIDE of the
curve, but not safely on the inside. A router jig with a 2" straight
bit could also be used to make the outside bevel on the curve, but the
inside is still a problem. The curve radius is about 8 feet and the
chord lengths of the circle are on 5 foot centers. I love hand tools,
but I just don't have the time to do this by hand (especially after
framing for this circular section of the deck).
Oh well, I guess some bevel made with a panel raiser is better than no
bevel at all.
J. Painter
Bridger <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> for one handrail- or more to the point one curved section of one
> handrail- the spokeshave will be faster than setting up a shaper.
Oh boy, a hand-tool advocate! ;-) Actually, I use hand tools as much
as I can and I own a large collection of wooden planes and spokeshaves
that I actually use. However, this project is a large multi-tier deck
with one tier being a 16 foot diameter full circle. Using a
spokeshave for that much rail top and bottom would take way more time
than I have. It's bad enough I'll be spending half my summer gluing up
a curved rim joist, framing the tiers, and clipping down 6000 sq feet
of decking. Hey, ya gotta pick your battles.
J. Painter
On 11 Feb 2004 06:28:33 -0800, [email protected] (J. Painter) wrote:
>Bridger <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> for one handrail- or more to the point one curved section of one
>> handrail- the spokeshave will be faster than setting up a shaper.
>
>Oh boy, a hand-tool advocate! ;-) Actually, I use hand tools as much
>as I can and I own a large collection of wooden planes and spokeshaves
>that I actually use. However, this project is a large multi-tier deck
>with one tier being a 16 foot diameter full circle. Using a
>spokeshave for that much rail top and bottom would take way more time
>than I have. It's bad enough I'll be spending half my summer gluing up
>a curved rim joist, framing the tiers, and clipping down 6000 sq feet
>of decking. Hey, ya gotta pick your battles.
>
>J. Painter
how about making a sled that rides on the rail and holds a router with
a largish straight bit at an appropriate angle?
On 10 Feb 2004 06:08:22 -0800, [email protected] (J. Painter) wrote:
>> Actually the handrail hes speaking of slopes from the center down to the
>> edges at about 10-15 degrees depending on tatse. I make mine from 4" wide 1
>> 1/2 stock. I try to get the bevel cut so that it leaves about 5/8 - 3/4 of
>> square edge on the sides of the rail. A straight rail is a piece of cake,
>> simply run it through the table saw. For a curved piece though you must go
>> to a shaper, router or hand method of making the beveled, sloping rail. So
>> there one can see where a 12 or 15 degree panel raiser would work excellent
>> for this type of rail. Stick around Oh Young One! :-)
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>
>Precisely so, Jim, and "bevel" is the better word than my "chamfer".
>I still haven't found a bit that will allow me to get the rail width I
>want and have the bevels meet in the middle. Looks like my only
>choice would be to buy a shaper (not bloody likely) or compromise and
>have the bevels end before the center. Probably I would leave enough
>flat area on the top to equal the width of the spindle bottom.
>
>I've thought long and hard about other possiblities. I can imagine a
>jig that would allow me to use my table saw on the OUTSIDE of the
>curve, but not safely on the inside. A router jig with a 2" straight
>bit could also be used to make the outside bevel on the curve, but the
>inside is still a problem. The curve radius is about 8 feet and the
>chord lengths of the circle are on 5 foot centers. I love hand tools,
>but I just don't have the time to do this by hand (especially after
>framing for this circular section of the deck).
>
>Oh well, I guess some bevel made with a panel raiser is better than no
>bevel at all.
>
>J. Painter
for one handrail- or more to the point one curved section of one
handrail- the spokeshave will be faster than setting up a shaper.
On 9 Feb 2004 06:34:35 -0800, [email protected] (J. Painter) wrote:
>Listers:
>
>I'm preparing to make a curved railing for a deck. The top railing is
>about 3 and 3/4" wide and I need a router bit that will span halfway
>across that distance so that the profile will shed water. On the
>bottom rail, I want the traditional deep, low angle chamfer that also
>spans half the distance in order to shed water. Since the railing is
>curved the table saw won't help. I'm thinking of using 3 1/2" raised
>panel bits to get the job done. Does anyone have a different idea for
>this problem? Are low angle wide chamfer bits available? Is there
>some railing bit available that will span the distance I need? Any
>ideas appreciated...
>
>J. Painter
spokeshave